Costa Smeralda

Costa Smeralda is a famous resort area in north-eastern Sardinia.

Porto Cervo

Understand

This area was developed in the 1960s by the Consorzio Costa Smeralda led by Prince Karim Aga Khan. With white sand beaches, golf clubs, private jet and helicopter services, and exclusive hotels, the area has drawn celebrities, business leaders, and other affluent visitors.

Strictly speaking, the Costa Smeralda is only a 20 km stretch of land in the commune of Arzachena. Tour operators often tend to denote the whole north-eastern coast of Sardinia as Costa Smeralda which isn't quite correct. The nearby villages of Poltu Quatu, Baja Sardinia, Cannigione and Porto Rotondo are sometimes associated with the famous coastal stretch, whilst they are located in the its vicinity, they are a part of it.

The heart of the Costa Smeralda is Porto Cervo (Deer’s Port) where the dolce vita reaches its peaks. The other locations include Romazzino, Capriccioli, Cala di Volpe, Pevero Gulf, Pantogia and Liscia di Vacca.

The harbour of Porto Cervo

A square in Porto Cervo

Get in

By plane

The nearest airport is in Olbia, Aeroporto Costa Smeralda, one of Sardinia's three international airports. All international flights are seasonal, and they operate to dozens of European cities and even Dubai. Only a handful of domestic flights operate outside of the tourist season.

By boat

Ferries to Olbia from the Italian mainland.

By bus

Regional buses from Olbia, Arzachena, Santa Teresa Gallura (for ferries to Bonifacio in Corsica).

Get around

By boat

Ferry connects the Porto Cervo with the Marina Nuova across the harbour: every 1/2 hour from 08:30 (Marina) and 9:00 (Porto Cervo). The last ferry from Porto Cervo is at 22:00.

By car

In order to have access to remote (some say the best of the) beaches you will probably need to hire a car (mopeds are not so good on the bumpy tracks down to the beaches). Driving on the coastal roads gives great views over the yacht lined Costa Smeralda coastline (or it's rather better to hire a yacht then?). There are a number of car rental offices at Olbia Airport where cars can be rented for affordable prices.

See

You can get up close to the super yachts when they come in to Porto Cervo in the evening.

Church Stella Maris

• 1 Chiesa di Stella Maris (Star of the Sea). The church is a landmark of Porto Cervo, built in the 1960s by the architect Michele Busiri Vici in so-called neo-Sardinian style which was inspired by the Nuragic monuments of Sardinia, the traditional architecture of the Greek islands and the Byzantine architecture of Orthodox Christianity. The church hosts the original of the Mater Dolorosa by El Greco. The church is decorated with sculptures, furniture and the bronze doors with Annunciation bas-reliefs by the sculptor Luciano Minguzzi. An 18th-century pipe organ is in there. The sculptures of St. Joseph and Pope Giovanni Paolo II by Pinuccio Sciola are installed outside. The architectural simplicity of the church contrasts with the luxury of the yacht marina and the jet set life around. The church's location offers panoramic views of the entire bay. (updated Aug 2017)

Do

The best of the beaches are Liscia Ruia, Capriccioli, Romazzino and Cala Petra Ruja. The beaches are the area's main leisure attraction and are well worth discovering. The white sand beaches are soft and sheltered and the water changes between extraordinary shades of light blue and green. Some beaches like Capriccioli are easily accessible on foot, but more remote beaches like Petra Ruja lack public transport and must be travelled to by car. Google Maps navigates to this beach well. For parking there are the usual manned parcheggios which charge a few Euro per hour, but if you can park on the side of the road safely, then you may do so.

Buy

Harrods Prestige Village in Porto Cervo

If you want to be as stylish as the rich tourists of Costa Smeralda you may go to Porto Cervo for expensive shopping.

Eat

Most restaurants on the Costa Smerelda are overpriced. For authentic Sardinian cuisine try the campsite restaurants where all the locals go.

Drink

Billionaire nightclub in Porto Cervo

• Billionaire. A nightclub in Porto Cervo. (updated Aug 2017)

Sleep

Hotel Luci di la Muntagna

It can be quite difficult finding accommodation in the Costa Smeralda as the area is mainly serviced by Italian tour operators but some local operators provide detailed accommodation information online. If you don't have your own private yacht to stay on and can't afford the £300 per night prices of the exclusive hotels then you might want to hire a villa through a website. Alternatively you can hire bungalows at a number of the campsites on the coast.

Budget

• Residence Bougainvillae Porto Cervo, Via Della Marina, 07021, Porto Cervo (OT), ☏ +39 078 991640, fax: +39 078991717. The Bougainvillae is a residence offering one studio, one bedroom apartment and two bedroom apartments. All with private bath, living room, patio or balcony, satellite TV and Wi-Fi connection. Other services include the swimming pool and private parking. Weekly prices. 

Mid Class

• Luci di la Muntagna, Porto Cervo, Via Sa Conca 55 - 07021, ☏ +39 0789 92000, fax: +39 0789 92051. Hotel rated 4 stars and is renovated in 2012. In front of Yacht-Club Costa Smeralda with panoramic seaview. 
• Aldo B&B, Arzachena, Loc.Rena., ☏ +39 328 8399697. In the heart of the Gallurese countryside, a stone's throw away from the sea of the Costa Smeralda. 

Stay safe

No special precautions need to be observed here. Wear sunscreen and find shade during the hottest parts of the day. Drink plenty of water. Do not leave valuables on the beach or in your car when you go for a swim: leave them at the hotel.

Go next

• Maddalena archipelago -- take a trip from the Sardinian port of Palau. Nice views, great snorkelling.