Agricultural landscape of Carmona
The Agricultural landscape of Carmona takes you through various landscapes of particular natural and cultural interest.
The route takes place in and around the city of Carmona, and features a selection of landscapes included on the Register of Landscapes of Cultural Interest in Andalusia. The itinerary begins in Carmona. Its purpose is to help you understand the various ways in which people have related to and continue to relate to the places they call home, as well as how these interactions have given rise to various types of cultural landscapes. Not only do these landscapes contribute to the uniqueness of the province, they also represent examples of sustainable spatial development.
Original reference documents are available on the website of the Digital Guide to Andalusia’s Cultural Heritage.
Understand
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The Alcor is a tiny, straight mountain range that runs from Alcalá de Guadaíra to Carmona. |
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—Antonio Blázquez (1921), Iberian Peninsula | ||
Located 34.5 km (21.4 mi) east of Seville, the city of Carmona lies at the heart of an area known as Campiña de Carmona. It is one of the most populated parts of Los Alcores. Here, the landscape has been shaped by sediment dating back to the Miocene. A particularly defining feature is the sharp contract between rugged rocks, plains and rolling hills. The city is connected to the rest of Andalusia and Spain by numerous roads, in particular the A-4 , which links Carmona to Seville, Córdoba and Madrid. Indeed, Carmona has historically been easily reached from other parts of Spain, beginning with when the old settlement was located near to the historical mouth of the Guadalquivir, an important waterway connecting Lower Andalusia. This was around 70 km (43 mi) inland from its current location in Sanlúcar de Barrameda. Two other factors historically contributed to its importance. The first was its thriving agricultural sector, made possible by the nearby river Corbones. The second is its location on a plateau, on a ridge formed from Los Alcores at 234 m (768 ft) above sea level. This means the top of the city offers sweeping views of the surrounding countryside, something that allowed it to control the area and become a place of great strategic importance.
It is estimated that humans arrived in what is today Carmona around 500,000 years ago, during the Lower Palaeolithic period. However, the archaeological record of Carmona dates back to around 3000 BC, with an urban settlement being created by the Tartessos in the 8th Century BC. During the times of the Turdetani and Carthaginians, Carmo (as it was called by the Romans) was one of the main settlements of the Lower Guadalquivir Valley. It later became an important stop on the Roman Via Herculea, which connected the Bay of Cádiz to towns and villages in the provinces of Seville and Córdoba. The road later became known as Via Augusta (the longest and busiest of the major roads built by the Romans in ancient Hispania), and traces of it can be seen almost two millennia later, on the outskirts of the city. The strategic importance of Carmo explains why it was quickly captured by the Romans between the end of the 3rd century BC and the beginning of the 2nd century BC. The settlement was extensively Romanised, becoming a major crossroads on the Via Augusta, being made a town by Julius Caesar, and then being conferred the status of a city by the first Roman emperor Caesar Augustus.
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After the fall of Rome and later the Visigothic Kingdom in 711, Carmona became the capital of the Kūra of Qarmūnâ, one of the administrative districts that made up the political structure of al-Andalus. Following the disintegration of the Caliphate of Qurṭubah (Córdoba), Qarmūnâ became its own taifa before being captured and integrated into the Taifa of Išbīliya (Seville). The Islamic domination lasted until the city was captured by Ferdinand III of Castile in 1247. Carmona became one of the most important concejos in the Kingdom of Seville and the whole of Andalusia in the Late Middle Ages. The early modern period saw the consolidation of the power held by the city’s patriciate and landowners. It also became wealthier due to its thriving agricultural sector and commerce. This provided the funds necessary to build a number of convents, churches and palaces, which can still be seen in the city centre today. The Baroque period had a particularly profound impact on Carmona due to its location near to Seville and dependence on the provincial capital. This can be seen in its architecture, paintings, gold work and sculptures.
During the 19th century, the city’s nobility and bourgeoisie cemented their position, whilst the Church’s power declined. This period also saw the arrival of the first visitors from abroad, who were part of the movement known as Romanticism. In 1881, the English archaeologist George Edward Bonsor began to unearth relics from the city’s past, beginning with the Roman necropolis. The importance of this discovery would see it be declared a Historic-Artistic Monument in 1931 and led to the founding of the Archaeological Society of Carmona at the end of the 19th century.
During the twentieth century, the growth of the city, which had begun in the previous century, continued. As of 2022, its population was 29,279. Tourism also increased with the opening of Parador Nacional de Carmona hotel. Today the city’s welcomes a large of number of visitors annually, who can choose from around a dozen hotels.
The city’s rich historical heritage, which it goes to great lengths to preserve, saw its old town become a Place of Cultural Interest in 1963. Today, visitors will find many listed buildings and artefacts from its past, as well as a vibrant local culture shaped by a number of festivals and ceremonies.
Carmona continues to have a thriving agricultural sector, with 11,600 hectares of olive groves and more than 20,000 hectares of fields of wheat. Two of Carmona’s landscapes feature on the Register of Landscapes of Cultural Interest in Andalusia. These are: the Agricultural Landscape of Carmona, which this route takes you through, and the Agricultural Landscape of Los Alcores and the Plain of the river Corbones. Panoramic views of both can be seen from the city’s viewpoints. The city as a whole can be best appreciated from the fields that surround it. Here you will see how the walled city, with its whitewashed houses, has been built on a rocky formation. You will also notice its urban sprawl, which stretches westwards across a plain before the Gate to Seville.
To sum up, this route aims to show you a number of Carmona’s landscapes up close. It also helps you understand the millennia of history that have shaped them and given rise to very distinct urban and rural landscapes. It begins at the Roman necropolis and amphitheatre, and ends at the Alcázar del Rey Don Pedro (the current site of Parador Nacional de Carmona). It will take you through the walled city and into the surrounding area, to landmarks such as the Gate to Seville, the Gate to Córdoba, the Roman bridge, and the hermitages to Our Lady de Gracia and San Mateo. Along the way are various viewpoints.
Get in
editIf you are coming from Seville (34 km (21 mi) from Carmona), you should look for directions to the A-4 . From Marchena you can take the A-380 , from Alcalá de Guadaíra the A-398 , from Lora del Rio the A-457 , and from Brenes the A-462 . The route is thought to be made almost completely by walk.
Drive
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Route: Entrance to the archaeological site at Jorge Bonsor avenue.
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To the east of this viewpoint, you will see many of the city’s buildings, dotted with church towers, the highest of which belongs to the nearby Parroquia de San Pedro church. This is the perfect place to fully appreciate the city’s architectural heritage.
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When arriving from Seville, you will approach the city from the west. This will take you through its outskirts, where the 1 Archaeological Site of Carmona is located. Here, you will find the ruins of the 2 Roman necropolis and 3 amphitheatre. These are separated by Jorge Bonsor avenue, named after the English archaeologist who began the excavation of the necropolis at the end of the 19th century. The site was used to house family mausoleums between the 1st and 2nd centuries AD, and cremation was common practice. Not to be missed at the necropolis are the 4 Tomb of the Elephant and the 5 Tomb of Servilia 
. Due to its location on a hill, the site is a fantastic natural viewpoint. To the west, you will see part of the nearby farmland that surrounds the city, dotted with small towns and villages on the horizon, as well as the faint outline of the city of Seville in the distance. To the east, you will see many of the city’s buildings, including the towers of its city wall and churches, the highest of which belongs to the nearby 6 San Pedro parish church. This is the perfect place to fully appreciate the city’s architectural heritage. The Roman amphitheatre is elliptical, a typical shape for these kinds of buildings, and was built on a natural slope, testimony to the ingenuity of the engineers of the time. Inside the necropolis, you will also find a museum with a variety of fascinating artifacts from various periods of Roman history.
Route: Jorge Bonsor avenue, Sevilla street and Paseo del Estatuto (9 minutes).
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After leaving the 7 Archaeological Site of Carmona, our route takes us to 8 Paseo del Estatuto, via Sevilla street or Enmedio street, which run parallel to one another. Both are the result of the expansion of the medieval city to the west, along the old road that connected Carmona and Seville. These wider streets contrast with the narrow roads we find within the city walls. Right at the beginning of Sevilla street is a 9 building formerly used to store grain. Built in 1946 by the National Wheat Service, it is testimony to the historical importance of this crop for the city. Directly opposite, on the roundabout, is a sculpture of the Roman god Attis, who is associated with the idea of resurrection and is a symbol of the city. Known as Carmo, it was unveiled in 2002. Paseo del Estatuto is one of the few open spaces in the city. Conceived as a boulevard, it has remained a place of leisure, with a number of places to eat and drink. Various roads from the area around the San Pedro church converge on Paseo del Estatuto. As you walk down the street, hidden down a narrow street on your right-hand side, you will find the 10 former Convent of the Conception. At the other end, various periods of the city’s history come together in one place, with the 11 Cerezo theatre, built in 1930, set against the baroque 12 San Pedro parish church, and the 13 Gate to Seville behind it. Continue straight down San Pedro street, where you will find the San Pedro church. Built between the 15th and 18th centuries in the old area beyond the city walls, the church has a basilica-style floor plan and stands out in the skyline of Carmona due to its particularly high tower, which is based on the Giralda in Seville.
Route: San Pedro street and Blas Infante square (5 minutes).
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The Gate to Seville is an impressive defensive structure. Extensively restored in the 16th century, it offers panoramic views of the surrounding countryside, of the whitewashed buildings and narrow streets inside the city walls. The gate is crossed via a horseshoe-shaped archway, a common feature in Almohad architecture. |
Leaving 14 San Pedro church behind, we are confronted by the imposing 15 Gate to Seville , as well as the city wall and remains of the 16 alcázar, and ancient Moorish castle. Here, you can see the relics of the various peoples and civilisations that have shaped the city throughout its history, from the Tartessos and Carthaginians through to the Romans and Almohads. The 17 Gate to Seville is an impressive defensive structure. Extensively restored in the 16th century, it offers panoramic views of the surrounding countryside, as well as the whitewashed buildings and narrow streets inside the city walls. The gate is crossed via a horseshoe-shaped archway, a common feature in Almohad architecture. In addition to the roof of the alcazar, another place that offers good views is the viewpoint just south to the area in front of the gate. Once you have passed through the gate to Seville, you are now in the city centre. Walk along Prim street or San Bartolomé street and Domínguez de la Haza street, in the direction of 18 San Fernando square, one of the few open spaces in Carmona. If you walk down Calle San Bartolomé, you will see the Gothic-Mudéjar portico of the 19 San Bartolomé church . Dating back to the 15th century, this church has a basilica-style floor plan. On Calle Domínguez de la Haza, the continuation of Calle San Bartolomé, you will find 20 House-Palace of the Domínguez, a former baroque palace which once belonged to the Domínguez family. Today, it houses the 21 city library. If you continue along this narrow street, on the right you will see one of the gates that leads to the large 22 Plaza de Abastos (market square). This was built in 1842 by the architect Ramón del Toro and is a fine example of regionalist architecture. It occupies the site of the former Convent of Santa Catalina, which was confiscated from the Catholic Church.
Route: San Bartolomé street, Domínguez de la Haza street, Sacramento street and San Fernando square (6 minutes).
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In Roman times, this was the site of the forum, and where the cardo maximus (the city’s main north-south street) intersected with the decumanus maximus (the city’s main east-west street). It continues to be the main place within the city walls where people come to meet, and is home to the city hall as well as other important public buildings.
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Having passed through the 23 Gate to Seville and along the city’s narrow streets, you are now in 24 San Fernando square. This central square is named after Ferdinand III of Castile, who captured the city in 1247. In Roman times, this was the site of the forum, and where the cardo maximus (the city’s main north-south street) intersected with the decumanus maximus (the city’s main east-west street). Today, it continues to be the beating heart of Carmona. As such, it is the main place where its residents come to meet. It is also home to the City Hall, built in 1837 on the former site of 25 college of San Teodomiro of the Company of Jesus. Here, you will also find the 26 old city hall. This was built in 1588, subsequently being repurposed to house the convent of Madre de Dios. You will find it on one of the corners of the square, next to «27 Casa Mudéjar», a stunning example of 16th-century Mudéjar architecture. San Fernando square also plays host to some of the city’s most important festivals, including Holy Week, the Crosses of May and the Nuestra Señora de Gracia pilgrimage, the patron saint of Carmona. From this open space, one of the few of its kind within the city walls, to the east you will find further examples of the Church’s historical importance in Carmona. These include 28 Priory Church of Santa María, the city’s main church with its magnificent tower, and the baroque 29 Salvador church with its unfinished tower. The latter, which was built in the 18th century, used to be known as San Teodomiro church, and has a dome that stands out amongst the surrounding buildings.
Route: El Salvador street, Fernando de la Barrera street, San Ildefonso street, Carlota Quintanilla street, Martín López street and Marqués de Las Torres square (5 minutes).
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After leaving San Fernando square, once again you will find yourself amongst narrow streets. You are now in the very heart of the walled city. It is here that you can clearly see the influence the local nobility and Church have had on Carmona. On El Salvador street, the 30 Divino Salvador church stands out due to its size and unfinished tower. Turn left on to Fernando de la Barrera street and then on to Martín López street. Here, you will see two excellent examples of the mark the nobility and Church have left on Carmona. These are 31 house-palace of los Rueda, a baroque palace built between the 17th and 18th centuries, and the 32 Priory Church of Santa María, located on 33 Marqués de las Torres square. This is the city’s biggest church (taking up an entire block) and was built between the 15th and 16th centuries on the former site of a mosque, the remains of which can be seen in the Patio de los Naranjos. Just behind it is 34 house-palace of Marqués de las Torres. Built in the 16th century and extensively renovated in the 18th century, this former palace is home to the 35 Museum of Carmona. On the same square, opposite church of Santa María, is the 36 convent of Agustinas Descalzas de la Santísima Trinidad o «de las Descalzas», a convent built in the 18th century. Carry on straight along Santa María de Gracia street. Here, you will find 37 convent of Santa Clara . This convent of the Order of Saint Clare was built in the 16th century and its style is predominantly Mudéjar. Make sure you don’t miss its two baroque entrances. A few feet down the street, you will find 38 Santa Caridad hospital. Built in the 14th century, take a minute to admire its baroque entrance and bell-gable.
Route: Descalzas street, las Descalzas square, Miraflores de Santa María street and Cueva de la Batida viewpoint (4 minutes).
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The route now sees us leave the area around the church of Santa María behind, and continue along street Descalzas, through las Descalzas square, until we reach the viewpoint known as Mirador de la Cueva de la Batida. On this section, Descalzas street becomes wider before merging into a small square. Here, you will find a former palace built in the 17th century, which is now a hotel. From the Cueva de la Batida viewpoint on Miraflores de Santa María street, you can clearly see how Carmona is built on a ridge, with the northern side of the city overlooking a steep slope. The buildings you see along this side of Carmona are mainly family homes. Although some are new, these have been built in the style typical of the area. This means whitewashed two-storey houses with roofs made from Monk and Nun tiles and windows with iron bars. From the viewpoint, to the north-northeast, you will notice a quarry around a 1 km (0.62 mi) away. From pre-Roman times through to the early modern period, the calcarenite from the site, formed 23 million years ago during the Miocene, was used in construction. It is here that we find the 39 Cueva de la Batida cave. In the distance, the hills continue over the horizon, dotted with villages spread over this part of the 40 Guadalquivir valley , such as Alcolea del Río and Guadajoz, at the foothills of 41 Sierra Norte , part of Sierra Morena.
Route: Cervantes street and Dolores Quintanilla street (5 minutes).
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We now continue along Dolores Quintanilla street towards the 43 Gate to Córdoba. Not far from the beginning of the road is the 44 church of Santiago, a Mudéjar church well worth visiting. As soon as you pass under the gate, you will be met with panoramic views across the plain. This spectacular gate gets its name from the fact that it leads out of the city onto the road to Córdoba. It was built for defensive purposes by the Romans in the 2nd century AD, when Córdoba was the capital of Hispania Baetica. It continued to be used as such throughout the al-Andalus period, during which Córdoba was the capital of the Caliphate and the emirate. Its original Roman features can still be seen amongst the many changes made to it during the al-Andalus era, in the 17th century, and particularly at the end of the 18th century and beginning of the 19th century by local architect José Echamorro, who is responsible for the neoclassical style you see today. As we approach its rounded arch, we are given a glimpse of what is to come. As we pass under it, we are confronted with spectacular views across the vast agricultural landscape of the plain to the east and north-east, which continues over the horizon. Depending on the time of year you visit, the scenery will be characterised by a different range of colours.
Route: Dolores Quintanilla street, footpath parallel to the Via Augusta and the Roman bridge (8 minutes).
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As you leave the city on the road that descends towards the Shrine to the Virgen de Gracia, turn down the footpath on your left. This runs parallel to the old Via Augusta, one of the main roads in Hispania, going from the south of the Iberian Peninsula through to the Pyrenees in the north. This section connected Hispalis (Seville) and Corduba (Córdoba). As you walk along the footpath, you will notice that it runs alongside the N-IV . Continue until you reach the 45 Roman bridge. Cross the 30 m (98 ft) long bridge and then turn back back on yourself, returning to the beginning of the footpath. This section of the route takes you through the very heart of the farmland surrounding the city, and offers you a different perspective from that seen at the Gate to Córdoba. At ground level, you will be able to fully appreciate how flat the area is as well as see how it merges with the rocky formation upon which Carmona is built. If you look towards the city, you will see how its defences suddenly rise out of the countryside. These include the Gate to Córdoba, the city wall, the remains of the 46 Alcázar del rey don Pedro, and what is now the vast 1 Parador Nacional de Carmona. This is in sharp contrast to the northern side of the city, which is lined with houses.
Route: Dolores Quintanilla street, Nuestra Señora de Gracia hermitage, A-380 , footpath, San Mateo hermitage, Carretera de San Mateo and Extramuros de San Mateo street (1 hour 35 minutes).
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We are now on the south-east edge of the city. Continue down Dolores Quintanilla street until you reach the 47 hermitage to Nuestra Señora de Gracia. This was built by the Mudéjar between the 13 and 14th centuries in honour of the patron saint of Carmona. Pilgrims come here from the 48 hermitage to San Antón on the first Sunday of September each year. Continue straight onto the A-380 , which runs almost parallel to the Roman via, until you reach a country path on your right. This will take you uphill to the Shrine to San Mateo. This was built in honour of Saint Matthew, whose feast day falls on 21 September, the same day that Carmona was captured by the Crown of Castile. On nearby Calle Extramuros de San Mateo, you will find 49 «Mirador de Carmona». This viewpoint offers panoramic views across the vast plain to the south, as well as nearby towns and villages, such as Arahal, Paradas, Marchena and Fuentes de Andalucía. Next to the viewpoint is an old mill, testimony to the importance of the milling of grain from the nearby fields for the local economy. 240 m (790 ft) behind the viewpoint is 50 San Felipe church. Built in the 14th century, this church is well worth a visit before you continue.
Route: Gate to Marchena street and Extramuros de Santiago street (4 minutes).
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Walk along Gate to Marchena street (a continuation of Extramuros de San Mateo street) and then Extramuros de Santiago street. This will take you to the city’s highest point: the 51 Alcázar de la Reina o Alcázar del Rey Don Pedro castle. This fortress occupies the former site of the Roman acropolis, and is just as impressive up close as it is from a distance. To access the site, pass through the 52 Gate to Marchena. The gate retains its horseshoe-shaped arch featuring an alfiz, a moulding that encloses the outward side of an arch and is often seen in architecture from the al-Andalus period. The alcazar is formed from a number of buildings and is divided into two sites. It served as the residence of the monarchs who governed Carmona and its dominions in the 11th century during the Taifa of Qarmūnâ. Following the conquest of the city by the Crown of Castile in 1247, it continued to serve as a royal residence. However, changes were made to it, the most extensive by Peter of Castile halfway through the 14th century. Around the middle of the 20th century, it became part of Paradores, a state-owned chain of luxury hotels housed in historical buildings. The sweeping views across the surrounding countryside make it easy to see why it was once used to defend and control the area. In particular, the rear terrace of the 2 parador. offers spectacular views across the vast 38 plain around the 53 river Corbones. From here, you can see the meandering river, the winding roads that disappear over the horizon, and 54 Sierra de Esparteros, near the town of Morón de la Frontera.
Stay safe
editThe places included on the route are safe and have low rates of crime. However, the usual safety precautions should be taken, such as locking your car and keeping your eye on your rucksack and other personal belongings. As in the rest of Spain, the Guardia Civil is responsible for policing the countryside, although Carmona does have its own local police force. On many parts of the route, there are no areas of shade. As such, you should use sun cream and a hat when the weather is hot. A number of sections are not fully accessible and may require outdoor wear and walking boots.
- Emergencies-112, ☏ 112.
- Guardia Civil, ☏ 062.
Stay healthy
editThe hospitals nearest to the points along the route are:
- 1 Centro de salud Carmona Ntra. Sra. de Gracia, calle Imaginero Francisco Buiza, 7,Carmona, ☏ +34- 955 64 96 64.
- 2 C.A.R.E. Los Alcores, calle El Pedroso, Mairena del Alcor, Sevilla, ☏ +34-955039852.
- 3 C.P.E. Nuestra Señora del Águila, calle Santander, 6, Alcalá de Guadaíra, Sevilla, ☏ +34-902505060.