Alaşehir

Alaşehir is a city in the Central Aegean region of Turkey. It's agricultural, stands about 100 km east of Izmir and the coast, and in 2022 had a population of 104,717.

Understand

The city was founded in 189 BC by Eumenes II of Pergamon. His successor was his brother Attalus II Philadelphos, and the town was called Philadelphia, which means "brotherly love". It's on higher ground above the Gediz River and has always been agricultural - sultanas are its best known product. Around 90 AD it hosted one of the "Seven Churches of Asia" addressed by St John of Patmos (Revelation 3:7–13), the only one spared his biliousness, but praised for its enduring faith. As part of the Byzantine Empire, the city held out against the Ottomans - they called it "the many-coloured city", hence ala şehir - until 1390. It had a large Greek population until the war of 1919-22, when much of it was destroyed by fire, so Alaşehir lacks old buildings and is humdrum 20th century architecture with few sights.

Get in

By bus

Buses from Istanbul take 8 hr 30 min via Gebze, Bursa, Balıkesir, Akhisar and Salihli (for Sardis), for a fare in 2023 of 600 TL.

From Izmir takes 3 hours via Turgutlu. Look for a dolmuş or local bus, the inter-city lines don't serve this route.

1 Alaşehir Şehirlerarası Otobüs Terminali the intercity bus terminal is new but bleak, just off D585 two km northeast of town. The dolmuş to get downtown may be included in your ticket, check when buying.

2 Otogar is the old bus station in city centre. A dolmuş will bring you here.

By train

Konya Mavi runs overnight, from Konya at 19:00 via Akşehir, Afyonkarahisar and Uşak to reach Alaşehir at 04:30. It continues via Manisa to reach Izmir Basmane by 08:00. The return train departs Izmir at 20:00 and Alaşehir at 23:30 to arrive in Konya at 09:00. Konya has YHT high speed trains from Ankara and Istanbul.

A regional train leaves Alaşehir at 05:30 and runs via Sardis and Manisa to reach Izmir Basmane at 09:00. It sets off back at 11:15 to arrive in Alaşehir by 14:45.

3 Alaşehir railway station is 1 km northwest of town centre. No facilities here, buy your ticket on board if no ticket office is open.

By road

From Istanbul follow O7 / O5 (toll) past Bursa and Balıkesir, exiting at Akhisar for D555 southeast. From Karaoğlanlı junction this becomes D585 and is a good divided highway.

Get around

The city sprawls, but the central area is small enough to navigate on foot.

See

Church of St John

• 1 Kenan Evren Statue is a central rendezvous point in town, but time has not been kind to the memory of Evren (1917-2015). People now prefer to call it a liberation monument, and the statue has been lowered by removing the steps. Born in Alaşehir, he led the military coup of 1980 that deposed prime minister Demirel, suspended parliament and civil rights, and shot communists out of hand. He was thereby the seventh president of Turkey until 1989. In 2014 he was jailed for his actions and busted to private, but this was still under appeal at his death, so it's as a general that he lies buried in Ankara.
• 2 Church of St John (Filadelfiya Kilisesi), İsmet Paşa Cd 114. M-Sa 09:00-18:00. Three stumps from arches in the basilica built around 600 AD, and decorative slabs in the garden, and that's all. (updated Dec 2023)
• Yıldırım Beyazıt Mosque just north of the church was built around 1400 AD late in the reign of Bayezid I (1360-1403).
• City walls survive as a stretch alongside Süleyman Demirel Blv east of the Otogar, turning south along İnönü Cd.

Do

• Hamam: the old bathhouse is dingy but still in use. It's 100 m west of the church at Hayrettin Kanbur Cd 29, open daily 09:00-22:00.

Buy

Evren's statue has lost its steps

• Lots of little supermarkets in town centre. Sok, Bim and A101 are the main chains.

Eat

• Ustam Pide Kebap, Cumhuriyet Cd 50 (100 m north of Eylül Apart Otel), ☏ +90 236 654 4769. Open 24 hrs. Reliable place for koftas and kebabs. (updated Dec 2023)
• Lots more on the streets west of the church.

Drink

Try the cafes for beer or raki.

Sleep

• 1 Şahin Otel, Fevzi Paşa Cd 1, ☏ +90 236 654 1000. Simple clean hotel, some street noise. (updated Dec 2023)
• 2 Eylül Apart Otel, Atatürk Blv 90, ☏ +90 507 445 3694. Clean efficient place near city centre. (updated Dec 2023)
• 3 Can Otel, Komiser Süleyman Avşar Cd 1, ☏ +90 537 356 7756. Smart friendly modern hotel near the highway, convenient for motorists. B&B double 800 TL. (updated Dec 2023)
• 4 Hotel La Bella, Süleyman Demirel Blv 376, ☏ +90 236 654 1654. Well-run new hotel east edge of city, convenient for motorists. Street noise in the front rooms. B&B double 1000 TL. (updated Dec 2023)

Connect

As of Dec 2023, Alaşehir and its approach roads have 4G from all Turkish carriers. 5G has not rolled out in Turkey.

Go next

• Denizli southeast has another of the Seven Churches of Asia at Laodicea, but the main attraction is the travertine pools of Pamukkale.
• Sardis northwest near Salihli has another of the Seven Churches.