Amsterdam-Zuidoost

Zuidoost (Dutch for Southeast), often colloquially referred to as the Bijlmer, is a borough of Amsterdam. It is an exclave, separated from the mainland by Duivendrecht and Diemen.

Understand

With no shared borders with Amsterdam, Zuidoost is a separate entity. It was built up in the 1960s and 70s as a residential utopia of sorts with apartment blocks separated by tracts of green. Also known as ‘De Bijlmer’, Zuidoost is a vibrant multicultural district renowned as the home of the Ajax football team.

Get in

By car

Zuidoost lies southeast of the A10 ring motorway and west of the Weespertrekvaart waterway that connects with the Amsterdam-Rijn canal. To the north are the town of Diemen and its forest Diemerbos. To the south lies Nieuw Utrechtseweg (A2 motorway) and open fields, beyond which is the Amstel River-side town of Oudekerk aan de Amstel. The A9 motorway runs through Bijlmer from Haarlem and connects to the A1 for Eastern destinations.

By train

The architecturally-acclaimed Amsterdam Bijlmer ArenA (Asb) railway station provides easy access to Amsterdam and the rest of the Netherlands. It serves the Bijlmermeer neighborhood.

• From Schiphol Airport. Schiphol station is located directly beneath the airport. From the arrivals hall, walk through Schiphol Plaza to reach the train station.
• Trains run to and from the Randstad (Amsterdam, The Hague, Rotterdam, Utrecht region)

Special (through) trains also run throughout the night commencing after the last train of the day and are available until the early morning. These trains run once an hour and the fare for the night train is the same as the day train.

Local trains on the Amsterdam - Utrecht and Amsterdam - Gouda - Rotterdam routes also stop at the new Holendrecht station outside the Amsterdam Medical Center (AMC) hospital, about 2 km south of Bijlmer ArenA.

By metro

Metro lines 50, 53 and 54 link the Bijlmer to the rest of Amsterdam.

• Metro line  50  runs from Isolatorweg to Gein along the same route as 54 and connects Bijlmer to the south and west of Amsterdam.
• Metro line  53  runs from Amsterdam Centraal Station to Gaasperplas and services the north and east of Bijlmer.
• Metro line  54  also from Amsterdam Centraal Station, runs parallel to the railway along the west of Bijlmer, then turns east to Gein in the south.

The two bigger stations of Zuidoost, both on lines 50 and 54, 1 Bijlmer ArenA  50  54  and 2 Holendrecht  50  54  are also train stations serviced with Sprinter services (Bijlmer ArenA and Holendrecht) and Intercity services (Bijlmer ArenA). The latter, Bijlmer ArenA may be particularly crowded during matches of local football club Ajax or the Dutch national team.

See

Part of the Bijlmermonument

• 1 Bijlmermonument, Nellesteinplad (Kraaiennest  53 ). In 1992 a Boeing 747F jumbo freighter crashed into two flats in the Bijlmer. This is a monument to the people on the ground who died or lost their houses in the disaster. 39 residents are known to have died, but due to many unregistered illegal immigrants living in the cellars of the flats at the time, which were completely incinerated in the crash, it is possible that more died than could be accounted for. The monument was designed by architect Herman Hertzberger and is built around a tree that survived the crash, with the names of the known victims and mosaics laid by survivors. The foundations of the destroyed buildings are also still visible.  
• 2 Amsterdam ArenA, ArenA Boulevard 1 (Amsterdam Bijlmer ArenA  IC   SPR   50  54 ), ☏ +31 203 111 333. The Amsterdam ArenA, built from 1993 to 1996, has a capacity of 51,628 seats during sports matches. It's the home ground of AFC Ajax, who play in Eredivisie, the top tier of football in the Netherlands; the Dutch national team also play here. The arena can hold up to 68,000 people during concerts and regularly holds popular music events. Ajax offers multiple daily tours through the Amsterdam ArenA stadium. (updated Sep 2018)
• 3 OSCAM - Open Space Contemporary Art Museum, Bijlmerplein 110-111 (Amsterdam Bijlmer ArenA  IC   SPR   50  54 ), info@oscam.nl. Tu-F 10:00-18:00, Sa 10:00-17:00. OSCAM is the museological platform for art, fashion, design, craftsmanship and development in Amsterdam. It has a rich background in curating art, fashion and design exhibitions with a speciality in young (sub)cultures. By involving known and unknown creative talents in our exhibitions and programs, OSCAM inspires and fulfils the need for a connection platform with other social art institutes in Amsterdam, the Netherlands and beyond. Free. (updated Sep 2021)
• 4 Bijlmermuseum, Grubbehoeve 38 (Ganzenhoef  53 Kraaiennest  53 ), ☏ +31 20 699 4203, bijlmermuseum@gmail.com. By appointment. Protected monument to the original 1960s urban vision of the modernist Bijlmermeer expansion of Amsterdam. It consists of the high-rise flats Gooioord, Groeneveen, Grubbehoeve, Kikkenstein, Kleiburg and Kruitberg, the brutalist metro viaduct running between them and the parks they are all located in. You can get a tour of parts of the Grubbehoeve flat by appointment, but if the weather's good just grab supplies for a picnic at the Ganzenhoef or Kraainest shopping centers and walk underneath the metro line. (updated Sep 2021)

Do

• 1 AFAS Live (Heineken Music Hall), ArenA Boulevard 590 (Amsterdam Bijlmer ArenA  IC   SPR   50  54 ), ☏ +31 900 687 42 42 (Dutch phones only). Large-scale music venue with plenty of international stars having performed here. More "headliners" are booked in Amsterdam for the Heineken Music Hall than any other venue. Best reached by train or metro (station Amsterdam Bijlmer ArenA). (updated Aug 2018)
• 2 Ziggo Dome, De Passage 100 (Amsterdam Bijlmer ArenA  IC   SPR   50  54 ), ☏ +31 900 2353663, info@ziggodome.nl. Indoor music venue. (updated Oct 2020)
• 3 Pathé Arena, ArenA Boulevard 600 (Amsterdam Bijlmer ArenA  IC   SPR   50  54 ), ☏ +31 885 152 000. One of the largest cinemas in the country, and it also has IMAX movies. (updated Aug 2018)
• 4 Gaasperpark (Gaasperplas  53 ). Recreational area and nature reserve with a lake and water-sports centre. The centre offers facilities for canoeing, swimming, rowing, sailing and a surfing school. Explore the park (5 km around the lake) by foot, bicycle or horseback. On the edge of the park is the Gaasper Camping campsite. (updated Aug 2018)
• 5 Kraaiennest Outdoor Gym, Kleiburg 52 (Kraaiennest  53 ). 24 hr. A well-equipped outdoor gym with permanent workout stations, made out of green plastic & metal. If you spend some time in Bijlmer, this is a good spot to workout for free during the daytime, and talk to locals. Just beside the running tracks and tennis court which you will see from the metro station and the Kraaiennest Winkelcentrum. Free. (updated Aug 2018)
• Skateboarding. There are a plethora of spots to go skateboarding in Amsterdam Zuidoost. The biggest attraction is the new skatepark in Bijlmer Park with two large bowls. 

Events

• Kwaku Summer Festival: mid-July – early August. Every summer for four weekends in July and August, the Kwaku summer festival is held in Nelson Mandela Park. What started as a football competition for Surinamese youngsters who couldn't afford to go on holiday has grown into a large festival celebrating the cultural melting pot that the Bijlmer has become, with ethnic food, drink and music, workshops, children's activities - as well as the original friendly football contests. Day tickets cost €7. (date needs fixing)

Buy

As this is a new part of Amsterdam, shopping malls are generally modern and large. From Bijlmer Station, west of the railroad you can find large retail stores, such as IKEA, MediaMarkt and others. The area east of the railroad could be called "downtown Bijlmer", where you can find a more relaxed atmosphere with smaller stores and quick dining facilities.

• 1 Amsterdamse Poort, Bijlmerplein (Amsterdam Bijlmer ArenA  IC   SPR   50  54 ), info@amsterdamsepoort.nl. Largest shopping centre in Zuidoost and indeed one of the largest in Amsterdam. All the usual big chain shops, but toward the eastern end, particularly in the "Shopper Hal" a lot of local/Caribbean/African places. Be sure to try the sausage or tripe from one of the vending cards, but beware the 'pepper' is very spicy. (updated Sep 2021)
• 2 Johan Cruijff Boulevard (ArenA Boulevard), Johan Cruijff Boulevard (Amsterdam Bijlmer ArenA  IC   SPR   50  54 ). On the west side of the railway so caters less to locals than people from elsewhere in town or indeed the country, consisting of a number of very large stores. Could be useful if in need of electronics or sporting equipment. (updated Sep 2021)
• 3 Winkelcentrum Reigersbos, Reigersbos 92 (Reigersbos   50  54 ). One of the larger local shopping centers. The main attraction is the metro line, which passes over the shopping street and disappears through a building on the eastern side. You'll also be sure to spot the herons (reigers) the area is named after. (updated Sep 2021)

Markets

Every day the same group of market traders sets up shop in a different location. Although it's basically just a street market for groceries, the diversity of the local population is reflected in its stands, with Caribbean and African produce, music and clothing.

• Monday: Anton de Komplein (next to the eastern end of Amsterdamse Poort)
• Tuesday: Reigersbos (under Reigersbos   50  54 )
• Wednesday: Kraaiennest (under Kraaiennest   53 )
• Thursday: Anton de Komplein
• Friday: Anton de Komplein
• Saturday: Ganzenhoef (on the Annie Romeinplein a short walk to the west of Ganzenhoef   53 )

Eat

• 1 Kam Yin Chinees Surinaams restaurant, Bijlmerplein 525, ☏ +31 20 - 4095888. Surinamese and Indonesian cuisine. Very good Moksi Meti (marinated pork and sausages with noodles). Popular with the locals. Take-away. €7. (updated Sep 2021)
• 2 Lebkov & Sons, Hoekenrode 6, 1102BR Amsterdam, ☏ +31 20 - 3650037. Sandwich bar. Mainly caters to office workers in surrounding buildings. Try the hummus & sun-dried tomato. €3. 
• 3 Lomnava Kenkey House, Karspeldreef, 1102BX Amsterdam (no house number visible, look for the shack with prominent Ghanaian flag in front of the Hogevecht flats). One of the few Ghanaian snack bars in Amsterdam. Specializes in Kenkey (a sort of sourdough dumpling), but has a wide range of West-African cuisine at very reasonable prices. €7. 
• 4 Marmaris Grill & Pizza, Hoekenrode 5, 1102BR Amsterdam, ☏ +31 20 - 6973641. Relatively up-market Turkish/Mediterranean restaurant in the fancy new building opposite station Bijlmer-Arena. Great food, presentation and service - definitely worth the price. On cold days, avoid sitting anywhere near the door as it frequently fails to close properly. €14. 
• 5 Oma Ietje, Heesterveld 3, 1102SB Amsterdam (Bullewijk   50  54 ), ☏ +31 20 - 2338150, info@omaietje.nl. Sa-W 08:00–17:00, Th F 08:00-20:00. Inevitably, hipsters have even found their way into the Bijlmer. Part-funded by crowdfunding. Very worthy 'Swedish style' coffee house. Coffee, biological lemonade and cakes. Also showcases art by local artists. €5. 
• 6 Elixer (2 Chefs Circular Restaurant), Egeldonk, 1103AK Amsterdam (Geldershoofd bus 66 or a 5-minute walk from Gaasperplas  53 ), ☏ +316 21966195, post@restaurantelixer.com. W-Su 12:00-23:00. Restaurant dedicated to circular economy. Occupies a formerly derelict building, all furnishings are second-hand, and as much food as possible is home-grown or locally sourced. Profits are invested in local community initiatives, and the whole restaurant functions as a low-key gallery for local artists. Also, the food (surprisingly traditional French/European fare) is delicious. (updated Sep 2021)
• 7 Yemayá’s Vegan Corner, Reigersbos 3A (Reigersbos   50  54 ), ☏ +316 87618106. Tu-Sa 12:00-18:30. Surinamese Caribbean vegan food made by a local collective. Also delivers within Zuidoost and Diemen. (updated Sep 2021)

Drink

In part due to its bad reputation, Bijlmer suffers from an acute shortage of legal drinking premises. There are few bars and many close early (18:00). Thirsty locals either drink in the park, or in the past at various social clubs in the basements of the huge flats - where theoretically no alcohol may be drunk, but in practice it was brought, bought and sold. As these places were illegal and uncontrolled, tended to be in the worst parts of the neighbourhood, and were frequently the scene of drug dealing and violence, tourists should steer well clear of them unless in the company of a trusted local. However, things are changing, with fewer illegal dives and more legal alternatives.

Local bars are very lively and colourful places and have a quite different feel to anything in the center of town or indeed anywhere else in the Netherlands, and definitely worth a visit if you're in the area.

• 1 De Proefzaak, Hullenbergweg 6, ☏ +31 6 13941438, reserveren@deproefzaak.nl. Tu 11:30-17:00, W 11:30-22:00, Th-Sa 11:30-00:00, closed Su M. In 2015 the first monastery - the Kleiklooster - opened in the Bijlmer, and as good monks do, they started brewing beer. Good beer, if somewhat eccentric. This is their tasting hall where you can sample the current Kleiburg brews. Avoid late afternoons, particularly on Fridays, as it can get very busy when nearby offices are empty. Clientele consists more of office workers and tourists than locals. You can frequently spot a tall grey-haired man with a large beard - the monastery's preacher - buzzing around. (updated Jul 2017)
• 2 Brasserie Hoekenrode, Hoekenrode 2 (Amsterdam Bijlmer ArenA  IC   SPR   50  54 ), ☏ +31 20 6960322, info@hoekenrode.nl. M-F 10:00-23:30, Sa Su 12:00-23:30. Large cafe under the Hampton/Hilton hotel. During the day mainly caters to the nearby office crowd, but in the evenings it gets more local. (updated Sep 2021)

Coffee shops

For decades, despite having a large number of regular smokers and indeed the largest Rastafarian community in the Netherlands, Zuidoost did not have its own coffee shop. Locals had to go to the center of town, or resort to street dealers - with all the problems the latter caused. In 2017 that led the city council to approve the first coffee shop in Zuidoost.

• 3 Roots, Hoekenrode 14 (Amsterdam Bijlmer ArenA  IC   SPR   50  54  - on the ground floor under the station building - turn right at the exit and follow your nose), info@hoekenrode.nl. Daily 09:00-00:00. First - and as of September 2021, only - coffee shop in Zuidoost. Caters to locals, day trippers to large venues nearby and tourists in the surrounding hotels. Take-away or smoke in. (updated Sep 2021)

Sleep

Campsite

• 1 Gaasper Camping Amsterdam, Loosdrecht 7, 1108 AZ (Gaasperplas  53 ). Check-in: 11:00. The capital's largest campsite. Off-season from €16.25, from €18.50 during high-season. (updated Aug 2018)

Hostels

• 2 A&O Amsterdam Zuidoost, Hogehilweg 22 (Bullewijk  50  54 ), ☏ +31 202 589 100. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 10:00. Immediately adjacent to metro station Bullewijk, 5 min walk from train station Amsterdam Bijlmer-Arena. Free wifi. Free parking. No curfew. This hostel is the largest in Amsterdam, opened in 2015 in a completely renovated former office building. Clean and very popular, it spearheaded the revitalisation of this part of town. Location is logistically perfect, less than 20 min door-to-door from Schiphol airport, near the major train station and the junction between major motorways leading into Amsterdam, and with an excellent metro connection into the center of town. The only drawback is that there isn't much to do in the immediate vicinity and that the metro doesn't run at night. Fortunately Amsterdam night buses do run every night and stop at Amsterdam Bijlmer-Arena (5 min walk away). €24. (updated Aug 2018)

Hotels

• 3 Campanile Hotel Amsterdam, Loosdrechtdreef 3 (Gaasperplas  53 ). Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. 3-star hotel. Free Wi-Fi. Free parking. (updated Aug 2018)
• 4 Tulip Inn Amsterdam Riverside, Provincialeweg 38, 1108 AB (Gaasperplas  53 ), ☏ +31 203 121 416. 3-star hotel. Free parking. 8 conference rooms. Restaurant. The bar is open till 01:00. €78. (updated Aug 2018)
• 5 EasyHotel Amsterdam Arena Boulevard, Johan Cruijff Boulevard 129 (Amsterdam Bijlmer ArenA  IC   SPR   50  54 ), ☏ +31 20 3697137. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 10:00. Exactly what you'd expect from Easy - affordable, no-frills but generally clean. Doubles from €49. (updated Sep 2021)
• 6 Hampton by Hilton Amsterdam / Arena Boulevard, Hoekenrode 1, 1102BR (Amsterdam Bijlmer ArenA  IC   SPR   50  54 ), ☏ +31 20 8203200. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Surprisingly affordable, straight across from Bijlmer Arena station. Doubles from €62. (updated Sep 2021)

Stay safe

As this used to be the most crime-ridden area of Amsterdam (and the Netherlands as a whole), it is important to always be cautious and stay within the well-populated areas. Do not walk around alone in the dark and avoid groups of youth standing around. Generally speaking, the area around Bijlmer ArenA station and along the Bijlmerdreef is quite safe, while the further off you get from there, the unsafer it gets. The area around Holendrecht is probably the worst. It must be said though that in the last 20 years crime has lessened considerably and the area can be visited safely during daylight.

Non-residents who never actually go there will tell horror-stories about Bijlmer, but not only are they generally out-of-date, but they also need some perspective: even though populist Dutch politicians claim otherwise, the Netherlands is one of the safest countries on earth, and Amsterdam one of the safest large cities. If you live in a city, chances are that it has neighbourhoods much less safe than Bijlmer. Even within Amsterdam, there are much worse neighbourhoods, such as the western suburbs of Slotermeer/Slotervaart.

Objectively Bijlmer may even be safer for tourists than the centre of town - pickpocketing is by far the commonest crime tourists suffer in Amsterdam and it is endemic in the center and on the trains to and from the airport. As there are almost no tourists in Bijlmer, there are hardly any pick-pockets either!

Go next

From Gaasperplas, you can cycle to Weesp, Muiden, or deeper into the Gooi en Vechtstreek. Another option is to go south into the Vecht en Plassen region of Utrecht.

Routes through Zuidoost

West ← Oost ←	W  E	→ END
Binnenstad ← Oost ←	N  S	→ END
Binnenstad ← Oost ←	N  S	→ END