Avanos

Avanos is a town in Cappadocia, in an area riddled by ancient underground dwellings. Its main industry is pottery and in 2022 its population was 15,000.

Understand

Avanos of old was Venessa, but little remains above ground of its Roman and Byzantine era. Below ground however are dwellings carved into the soft volcanic tuff, which may go back to the 8th century BC. The town stands on Kızılırmak ("Red") River, the longest entirely within Turkey at 1355 km, which makes a great loop across Anatolia to reach the Black Sea near Samsun. Its red silt is the basis for the ceramics industry here. The original core of town is north of the river, but a modern town has developed on the south bank.

Some 15 km south is the start of the hoodoo or "fairy chimney" landscape iconic of Cappadocia. This has made Avanos an alternative base for exploring the area, less expensive than touristy Göreme.

Get in

Long-distance travel is via Nevşehir, which has flights from Istanbul and buses from all directions. A swarm of dolmuşes buzzes between Nevşehir and the smaller towns of Cappadocia; Avanos is just off Highway D300.

1 Otogar the bus station is fairly central. It's an open square along Kapadokya Cd ringed by cafes, ticket agencies and the like. Southbound buses (eg for Göreme) may stop across the street without pulling into the square.

Get around

The old town on the north bank is walkable. The new town sprawls, and you need wheels to reach Zelve and the fairy chimneys. Look for tours, or you could negotiate a taxi to take you around for a few hours.

See

• 1 Kızılırmak Bridge is a modern metal footbridge over the river. It's narrow and can get congested, when its swaying might be disconcerting.
• New Central Mosque (Merkez Yeni Cami) is on Vatan Cd, north end of the footbridge.
• Underground Mosque (Kebir Çukur Cami) was built in 1302 AD. It's on 107th Sk, 100 m north of New Central Mosque.
• Kapadokya Church is a former Greek Orthodox chapel, 100 m further east on 107th Sk.
• Yeşilbaş Mosque is richly tiled. It's on Edip Akbayram Sk by Duru Hotel.
• 2 Living History Museum (Kapadokya Yaşayan Miras Müzesi), 201st Sk 1, ☏ +90 506 935 2694. Tu-Su 09:00-18:00. Ethnography museum in the former Hacı Nuri Bey mansion. (updated Jul 2024)
• 3 Chez Galip Hair Museum, 110th Sk 24, ☏ +90 506 935 4577. Daily 09:00-20:00. And you thought the cave houses were weird? At heart this is another pottery shop, with attractive designs and you can have a go at making your own mug. But the boss also collects visitors' hair and displays the results, to creepy effect. (updated Jul 2024)
• 4 Güray Museum, Dereyamanlı Cd, ☏ +90 384 511 2374. Daily 09:00-18:30. Art museum in a cave, basically a showroom for the attached pottery. Adult 200 TL. (updated Jul 2024)
• 5 Mevlana Mosque is modern but built in traditional style. The Mevlana cult is better known as the "dancing dervishes", centred on Konya.
• 6 Chez Galip Museum is a similar outlet to the town centre branch, but without the haircuts. It's open daily 09:00-18:00.
• 7 Virgin Mary Church (Meryem Ana Kilisesi) is carved out of the rock. But it's usually locked, and the vicinity is trash-strewn and populated by low-lifes.

Further out

Ceramics of Avanos

• 8 Saruhan is a restored caravanserai and market on D300 east towards Kayseri. Shops within (open daily 09:39-17:30) sell carpets, pottery and so on. Evenings they put on "dancing dervish" shows, which they stress are not mere cabaret for the coach tours, but authentic "Sema" religious experiences. That's code for "a bit dull, and kids will get fractious".
• 9 Paşabağ Valley is the closest area of hoodoo or "fairy chimney" rock formations, 5 km south off the road to Çavuşin. "Imagination Valley" is a similar area east along the road to Ürgüp.
• 10 Zelve, ☏ +90 384 271 3535. Daily 08:00-20:00. Village carved out of the rocks near Paşabağ valley, with an ancient mill, winery and churches. It may have been occupied from Hittite times, but the big expansion of such dwellings was from the Byzantine era. Adult 400 TL. (updated Jul 2024)
• 11 Özkonak Underground City (14 km northeast of Avanos), ☏ +90 384 513 5168. Daily Apr–Oct 08:00–20:00, Nov–Mar 08:00–17:00. Extensive underground city discovered in 1972. Only one floor can be visited, but it's large. Adult 200 TL. (updated Jul 2024)

Do

• Hamam: Avrasya Spa offers traditional Turkish baths and massage at Kızılırmak Cd 12 next to Suhan Cappadocia Hotel, open daily 14:00-00:00. Alaaddin Hamam in town centre and Mavi Su near the bus station have both closed down.
• Balloon rides: agencies based here are Voyager, Rainbow and Turkiye Balloons.
• Horse riding: over a dozen agencies, mostly south around Çavuşin.
• Waterpark: Kuş Adası (meaning Bird Island, same as the Aegean resort of that name) is at Kızılırmak Cd 99, one km west of the Hilton. It's just one small pool with slides.

Ada Camping 200 m east of the Hilton is no longer a campsite but has a small pool, with crotchety unfriendly staff. Mmmmm Aquapark north of the river has closed down.

Buy

New Central Mosque

• Lots of little supermarkets, mostly on the road towards the bus station.
• Also lots of places selling ceramics, some thinly disguised as museums.

Eat

• The main strip is just north of the footbridge, with Kapadokya Lezzet Sofrası, Öz Bereket, Taşevim, Dürümcü Dayi, Ciğercan Avanos, Kumsal & Inci, Usta and Ocakbaşı Urfa Sofrası.
• Ürgüp Cd the street into town from the bus station has Ekonomik Balik, Köfteci Yusuf, Dinner in the Sky, Big Chef's and Fatima's.

Drink

• Local wine: wine houses (Şarap Evi) along Edip Akbayram Sk are Salkım, Aryatus and Vanessa.
• Cafes serve alcohol.

Sleep

• 1 Kirkit Hotel, Atatürk Cd 50, ☏ +90 384 511 3148. Charming central hotel in a knock-through of four old houses. B&B double 3000 TL. (updated Jul 2024)
• Sofa Hotel, 202nd Sk 9 (facing museum), ☏ +90 384 511 5186. Atmospheric hotel, some rooms are rock-cut. B&B double 2000 TL. (updated Jul 2024)
• 2 Duru Hotel, 807th Sk 1, ☏ +90 384 511 2404. Pleasant hotel on the slopes north of town, with great views. (updated Jul 2024)
• 3 Saklı Cave House, 112nd Sk 23, ☏ +90 538 509 4443. Good value small hotel. B&B double 1500 TL. (updated Jul 2024)
• 4 Mira Cappadocia Hotel, 112nd Sk 26, ☏ +90 532 415 8444. Great reviews for comfort and service at this hotel on the north slopes. B&B double 3000 TL. (updated Jul 2024)
• 5 Suhan Cappadocia Hotel, Kızılırmak Cd 10, ☏ +90 384 511 6721. Big boxy hotel a short walk to town centre. It got bad reviews in winter 23 / 24 but looks like management have got a grip and smartened the place up. Bland catering, but secretly you were yearning for a respite from full-on Turkish. B&B double 3000 TL. (updated Jul 2024)
• 6 Double Tree by Hilton, Kızılırmak Cd 1, ☏ +90 384 511 1111. Decent mid-price chain hotel often used by tour groups. B&B double 3000 TL. (updated Jul 2024)
• 7 Signature Garden Hotel, 520th Sk 4, ☏ +90 384 511 5210. Comfy modern hotel with pool by D300, handy for motorists. B&B double 3000 TL. (updated Jul 2024)
• Alp Hotel behind Signature Garden is similar price and quality.
• Casablanca Garden by the same highway turnoff gets rotten reviews.

Connect

Avanos and its approach highways have 4G from all Turkish carriers. As of July 2024, 5G has not rolled out in Turkey.

Go next

• Göreme is at the heart of the "fairy chimney" landscape of Cappadocia. It's only 18 km south so you can easily day-trip.
• Uçhisar "castle" is a fantastically-carved pinnacle.
• South of Nevşehir are two extensive underground cities, at Kaymakli and Derinkuyu.
• Kayseri has museums and old buildings a-plenty, and is the transport hub for heading east.