Baeza (Ecuador)

Baeza is a small town in Quijos Canton in Napo Province, which is in the Andean Highlands of Ecuador.

Understand

It is the canton seat and home of the Quijos-Quichua indigenous people. Founded in 1559, it is located near the Quijos river on South America. It gets its name from the Spanish town of the same name.

It's a quiet town that is rapidly coming into its own as a mountain town and lower-elevation stopover for travelers challenged by Ecuador's elevations. Its location at "The Y" (fork between routes to Lago Agrio/Coca and Tena) makes it a reasonable hub for exploring the area's attractions. Tourist infrastructure is very limited, but adequate and improving.

There are two Baezas: Colonial Baeza (Baeza Antiguo) and New Baeza (Nueva Baeza). It's a 5-minute walk between the two.

Get in

By car

La Y - If you want to handle your own transport to and from Baeza, it will be helpful to know about "La Y" (pronounced "La Yeh" in Ecuadorian Spanish). This important highway intersection is 2 kilometers downhill from Baeza. One fork heads east into the northern Oriente, toward Lago Agrio and Coca. The other fork heads up the hill to Baeza itself, before continuing southeast toward Tena and the central Oriente.

By bus

Baeza has no bus terminal as such. Buses from Quito that are bound for Tena often stop in the center of New Baeza. Buses from Quito to Lago Agrio or Coca pass within 2 kilometers of Baeza, and will stop at "La Y".

Buses pass by La Y westbound for Quito (2-2.5 hours, $4: May 2016) every 20-30 minutes throughout the day. Eastbound buses for Lago Agrio, Coca, Tena, and other Oriente transportation hubs pass every 30-60 minutes during the day. Most buses out of Quito will leave from Terrestre Quitumbe, also referred to as Tumbe (located in the far south of the city). Alternatively, once can taxi from the airport to the Pifo roundabout and flag down a bus for Tena (most direct to Baeza) or Lago Agrio/Coca. Another option for avoiding unnecessary travel to Quitumbe is to board a Tena-bound bus from the slightly-scary "autopista" transport hub on the east side of Quito -- you may have to run across 8 lanes of freeway traffic with your luggage going this way, but it saves over an hour of redundant travel and transfer through Quitumbe in the far south of Quito.

If you arrive at La Y and want to get up to Baeza, you can try hitching with traffic heading uphill, pay a passing bus $.25 to take you up, or ask for someone to call you a taxi. Walking is not recommended, as there are no sidewalks and the road is curvy

Get around

By foot

Easy, just walk. Nowhere in the town is more than a 10-minute walk away. It is relatively flat in New Baeza, whereas Old Baeza is on a quaint hill and the paved/cobblestone path between the two has some up and down.

By taxi

There are also plenty of taxis around should you need one.

See

Waterfalls

• 1 Cascada San Rafael (San Rafael Waterfall) (from Baeza, hop a bus toward Lago Agrio and ask to be left at "la entrada de la cascada san rafael" (1.5-2 hours)). This is the tallest waterfall in Ecuador at 150 meters of height, and the incredible volume of water flowing over the lip tends to leave visitors breathless. An enormous mist blows out from the base of the falls, which can be reached unofficially by the adventurous. There is a well-developed trail down to a safe lookout point.
  In early 2016, the shape of the falls changed considerably due to the second tier of the falls collapsing into the pool below. There is now a freefall of 150 meters straight onto the rocks left from the collapse. Locals insist that the collapse revealed an image of the Pachamama, the Incan earth-goddess, who is still worshiped by Andean indigenous groups. Look for this image in the bare cliff to the left of the falls itself. (updated May 2016)

Do

Whitewater Kayaking

Baeza is a major whitewater kayaking hub for Ecuador. Featuring runs from Class III on up to difficult Class V, with steep continuous character, the high season from November to March sees a large influx of several dozen expert whitewater kayakers who take advantage of the large numbers of paddlers to easily arrange daily kayaking outings.

The difficult rivers here run more consistently than in other Ecuadorian whitewater hubs like Tena or Santo Domingo, making Baeza a better bet for expert kayakers on short trips. The climate is much cooler and drier than lower-elevation destinations such as Tena.

Hiking

Hikes within Baeza itself include a grueling ascent to a magnificent view from the antennas visible from anywhere in town, a descent from Old Baeza over blackened antique cobblestones to a small waterfall, a waterfall loop from New Baeza that begins near the zoo.

Jungle Tours

Baeza can serve as a useful stopover for jungle tourists wishing to escape from the heat and humidity of the lower Oriente without going straight to high elevations.

Buy

There is an ATM in Baeza, but does not accept some or all foreign debit cards The nearest ATM that seems to work for US cards is in the town of Borja, about 15 minutes away by taxi. Both towns have reasonably priced and easy to find taxis.

Shopping is quite limited in Baeza. There are a handful of small grocery markets, produce stands, pharmacies and hardware stores -- usual fare for small-town Ecuador. Notably absent: supermarket.

Eat

• 1 Restaurant Gina, Batallón Chimborazo y Jumandi, ☏ +593 6 2320471, +593 9 99129880, restaurantgina@hotmail.com. 7:30am-10pm every day. Long-standing roadside diner with breakfast, set lunches, and set dinners in addition to an extensive menu. Their specialty is local trout prepared in a variety of ways. $3.50 - $10. (updated May 2016)

Drink

High season (Dec-Feb): talk the kayakers into partying with you.

Low season (Apr-Oct): bring your own company.

Sleep

Budget

• 1 Hostal Amazonas. Very basic rooms, many without windows. Owner didn't pay their Internet bill, so you may not have WiFi. $10. (updated May 2024)
• 2 Hotel Samay. Basic rooms with chill vibe. Friendly staff. There's a gym and billiards table. Good wifi. Gas-heated water. A double room with private bathroom is only $10. (updated May 2024)
• 3 Hostal Gina (Hostal Restaurant Gina), Batallón Chimborazo y Jumandi, Baeza, Napo, Ecuador, ☏ +593 99 715 9241, restaurantgina@hotmail.com. Basic single, double, and triple rooms with shared or private bathrooms. Located above a busy restaurant. Free shots of Ecuadorian tequila for first time visitors. $12. (updated May 2016)
• 4 Hotel La Gran Via. Basic room. Most of the rooms don't have windows. $15. (updated May 2024)

Mid-range

• 5 La Casa de Rodrigo, Calle Batallón Chimborazo y Jumandi, Baeza, Napo, Ecuador, ☏ +593 6-232-0467. A few rooms in a nice house and a knowledgeable helpful host. $20. (updated May 2016)
• 6 Casa del Río. Recommended for kayakers who want to be closer to the river and further from town $30. (updated May 2015)

Splurge

• 7 La Casa de Gina (Hostal La Casa de Gina), Batallón Chimborazo y Jumandi, Baeza, Napo, Ecuador, ☏ +593 99 715 9241, restaurantgina@hotmail.com. Up to 8 beds in a private house. Features master bedroom with a double bed and a single, various other room configurations, office area, living room with bigscreen TV. Prices vary depending on number of people and length of booking. $60-100. (updated May 2016)

Go next

• Quito - the capital is 2-2.5 hours on the road to the northwest.
• Papallacta - town with hotsprings 40 km to the northwest, on the route to Quito.
• Borja - A small town 11 km northeast of Baeza
• El Chaco - A small town 5 minutes (by bus) to the northeast. A good option during high-season when the hotels in Baeza are fully booked.
• Cosanga - A small town 19 km south