Barbuda

Barbuda is an island in the Caribbean ringed with miles of beautiful deserted beaches. It is part of Antigua and Barbuda.

Regions

Barbuda consists largely of two limestone slabs: the western one is level and only a few feet above sea level; the eastern one has been uplifted and tilted slightly. The eastern side starts at sea level on the southern end and rises to about 40 m. There is little fertile soil; much of the island is covered by sparse low scrub.

On the north-west part of the island there is a large, shallow lagoon, bordered by a miles-long beach. The lagoon is home to the large and impressive frigate bird colony. The beach continues uninterrupted to the south end of the island. On the eastern Atlantic side the beaches may be narrower, but there are scenic cliffs and eroded coral rock and reefs.

Cities

• 1 Codrington is the only town on the island. Nearly all the 1,500 residents lived in this village before Hurricane Irma. Herds of goats wander the environs, rounding themselves up and returning home at night. Tourist amenities are modest and tourists are few, but those who venture here will be met with hospitality and will leave with an affection for this little island.

Understand

Barbuda is part of the nation of Antigua and Barbuda, being joined with Antigua when the islands were granted independence, but the islands have little in common. Internal affairs are largely governed by the elected Barbudan Council. Barbuda has a population of only 1,700, and few tourist facilities in spite of its miles of beautiful beaches. Nearly all the small stores, restaurants and guest houses are locally owned – what you spend here stays here. The economy is largely dependent on sand mining (the sand is exported to Antigua for construction), and tourism. The Barbudan Council has started a truck farm on the site of the old plantation to provide employment and fresh produce. The official currency is the EC dollar, but US dollars are often used for rooms, tours and car rentals.

The first inhabitants of Barbuda were canoe-driving hunter-gatherers around by hunter-gatherers from 2,900–3,000 BC, sometimes referred to as the Ciboney. Arawaks were present on Barbuda and Antigua from at least 1,000 BC. Their population on Barbuda peaked between 1,500 and 800 years ago. They were probably displaced by the Kalinago by the time Columbus landed on Antigua in 1493. The Barbuda took longer to be discovered by Europeans because it is so low-lying; Columbus probably never sighted it.

Early settlements by the Spanish were followed by the French and English who formed a colony in 1666/7. In 1685, Barbuda was leased to brothers John and Christopher Codrington, who imported slaves to work the land. In 1834, slavery was abolished in Barbuda. Because the entire island had been covered by a single land grant, the Barbudans kept on autonomous cultivation on communal property after slavery's abolition.

The islands became an independent state within the Commonwealth of Nations in 1981.

Most of the residents are descended from slaves owned by the Codrington family, who raised food here for the slaves in the sugarcane fields of Antigua. When slavery was abolished, the land was given to the Barbudans, and continues to be held in common. No one can own land, but Barbudans may apply for sites upon which to build homes. This has made it difficult for Barbudans to borrow against their land (mortgages). Larger developments are put to a vote. This has resulted in Barbuda being less developed than Antigua, although a large development on Princess Diana Beach by Robert De Niro and his associates is now in progress (as of 2024).

With a population of approximately 1,700, and an area of 62 square miles (160 km2), Barbuda is one of the most sparsely populated islands in the Caribbean. Barbuda has a population density significantly lower than Antigua. The economy of Barbuda is based mostly around tourism and government, with the central government and the local government being the largest employers on the island. Fisheries accounts for the majority of the island's exports, with the island having a significant lobster catching industry.

In September 2017, the Category 5 Hurricane Irma destroyed more than 90 percent of Barbuda's buildings, and the entire population was evacuated to Antigua. By February 2019, most of the residents had returned to the island. Unlike Antigua, many damaged buildings can still be seen as of 2024. Codrington lagoon used to be closed to the sea by a beach; Hurricane Irma washed this away, and the resulting opening is known as "Irma's Mouth".

The doctors and dentist on the island are from Cuba.

The electricity system on Barbuda is 110 volt.

Wild horses and goats can be seen around the island.

Tourist information

• Visit Antigua and Barbuda website

Talk

The language is English.

Get in

By plane

• Burton–Nibbs International Airport opened in October 2024, with a 1,859m runway. As of 2024 there are no scheduled flights. Most visitors will arrive by ferry from Antigua.

Codrington Airport closed permanently in October 2024.

The exclusive Coco Point Lodge has its own landing strip and arranges charters.

By ferry

The Barbuda Express, offers ferries from Antigua. US$107 as of 2024. The ferry docks at River Wharf, some distance from the only town, but an easy walk to almost-empty beaches.

Get around

Outside of Codrington, there is one road on the island, plus several unmarked tracks. Paving of roads and streets has begun. A number of residents offer transportation by car or boat. Tours may be booked directly or as part of an excursion package from Antigua. Hillside Tours is US$125 as of 2024.

Visitors staying in Codrington may want to rent a car, a process involving no paperwork, as there are no beaches within walking distance. Lynton Thomas, +1 268 720 9957, 721 2796, has 4WDs for rent. A temporary drivers license may be had for a few dollars and traffic is extremely light except when workers are being driven to and from the sand mine and resorts. Watch for trucks on the southern end of the island between Martello Tour and River Wharf. Bicycles may or may not be available for rent.

See

• Barbuda hosts a huge frigate bird colony, making it one of the few places in the world to view frigate birds at very close range. It is a Ramsar site.

Do

Take a tour of the frigate bird colony. Fascinating, especially during mating season.

Tour the other sights on the island--none are stunning, but all are part of the history. You will visit the ruins of Highland House, where the Codringtons looked over their fields, a cave reaching from the beach to the uplands, a Martello tower with its free and easy access to a spectacular beach.

Visit Art Cafe, where Claire Frank paints tropical critters on silk and where you can learn about Barbuda and get information about accommodations.

Walk on a beach that goes for miles without another person in sight (bring shade and water).

Sit and watch the goats go by.

Eat

There are a few modest restaurants in Codrington.

• Martello Bar and Grill, ☏ +1 268 460-0137, +1 268 783-8624. On the beach not far from the ferry wharf, Can provide food if you call ahead. 
• It's a Bit Fishy (On River Road between Codrington and Martello Fort, near gas station). Beach-style restaurant/bar with fresh seafood. Local fish, local owners, everything but the beach. 
• Palm Tree Restaurant, is a modest restaurant a couple blocks from the airport, +1 268 784 4331, +1 268 779 1074. Choices may include burgers, chicken, and local fare including fish and lobster.
• Wa O'moni, +1 268 562 1933. New on the island.
• There is a branch of Nobu on Princess Diana Beach, open during season. Prices are very expensive, even by the standards of Nobu. Construction of a hotel has begun as of 2024.

Drink

• It's A Bit Fishy, Barbuda, River Road, Codrington, ☏ +1 268 772-3525. Seafood grill and bar, karaoke, DJs, healthy seafood, not so healthy cocktails! 
• Madison's Bar, Madison Square in the centre of town, +1 268 460 0465. W Th 2PM-midnight, F Sa 9AM-2PM, Su from 5PM-1AM. Closed M Tu.

Sleep

• Coco Point Lodge, ☏ +1 268 562-5598. The most American accommodation on the island with single rooms, suites and two- to four-bedroom cottages. This all-inclusive resort is expensive but absolutely amazing. 
• Barbuda Cottages, ☏ +1 268-722-3050. The first self-contained 3-bedroom, 2-bathroom, solar-powered beach house, steps from the ocean on the south west coast of Barbuda. These cottages on Princess Diana Beach are expensive. 
• In Codrington, there are several modest guest houses.
  • Palm Tree House, a few minutes from town, +1 268 784-4331, +1 268 779-1074. May have no hot water, but has pleasant rooms. The landlady, Mrs. Deazle, will take orders for dinner and deliver from her restaurant.
  • Bus Stop Guest House, a bit closer on River Road at the edge of town, +1 268 720-9957, +1 268 721-2796. Rooms have air conditioning and small refrigerators. Coffee and tea service. The landlord, Lynton Thomas also gives tours and rents cars, and possibly bicycles--ask when you call. He'll meet you at the airport or the ferry dock. About US$70 single, US$80 double.

Stay safe

Barbuda is said to have little crime, although there was a rash of burglaries in May 2007, and four tourists on a yacht were murdered in 1994 (these are said to have been the only murders in a century or so). Bottled water is available at several small stores There are a tiny pharmacy and a small hospital.

There is little shade, so sun cream is a must.

Go next

• Antigua