Birgi

Birgi is an attractive village overlooking the Küçükmenderes Valley in the Central Aegean Region of Turkey, with a population of 1832 in 2022. Its name derives from Greek "Pyrgion" (Πυργίον, "little tower") and from the 13th to 15th century it was capital of the Aydınoğulları principality or petty kingdom, one of several formed in the power vacuum between the collapse of the Seljuks and the rise of the Ottomans. Birgi has been little developed since, so its street layout and monuments date back to that time.

Get in

The local hub is Ödemiş, which has highway, bus and rail connections from Izmir the regional capital. Birgi is 9 km northeast of Ödemiş, a short drive or dolmuş ride.

Get around

Walking is the best plan, on the narrow cobbled streets shaded by mature pines amidst traditional buildings.

The village is ranged on both sides of a creek, dry for much of the year but a torrent of cold cocoa after rains. There are only two bridges, at the top and bottom of the village.

See

• 1 Aydınoğlu Mehmet Bey Mosque (Ulu Cami / Grand Mosque), Uluselvi Sk. Built in 1312 in Seljuk style, this was the central mosque of the Aydınoğulları principality. The exterior is modest but striking features within are the wooden mimbar, the deep blue marble mihrab, and the lion statue a rarity in Islamic buildings. (updated Dec 2023)
• Tombs: Ümmü Sultan tomb is east side of the mosque. It was built in 1310 (710 AH) by Aydınoğlu Mehmet Bey for his sister Hanzade Hatun. His own tomb is south side of the mosque.
• Umur Bey Statue stands by Ümmü Sultan tomb, drawing his sword. He was born in Birgi around 1310, the second son of Aydınoğlu Mehmet Bey, and succeeded his father as ruler. He greatly enlarged the principality by land and sea until beaten back by rival powers, and died trying to re-capture Izmir in 1348.
• Kerim Ağa Konağı is a compulsory photo stop 100 m southeast of the mosque. It's a traditional Ottoman house with its upper storey projecting over the corner of İsabey Sk. In 2023 it's under restoration and scaffolding spoils the picture.
• 2 Çarkıroğlu Mansion, Şehit Gürol Madan Cd 44. Tu-Su 08:30-18:30. Three storey mansion built in 1761 for a wealthy merchant. The ground floor was stables, kitchen and guest room. The family lived on the first floor in winter and second floor in summer. (updated Dec 2023)
• 3 Derviş Ağa Medresesi, Okul Sk. Charming medresa built around a courtyard in 1657, now a museum. (updated Dec 2023)
• 4 Derviş Ağa Mosque was built in 1663 (1074 AH).
• Küp Uçuranlar Kulesi is a stubby Byzantine tower 100 m south of that mosque which has been restored as a restaurant.
• 5 Shrine of İmam Birgivi is 1 km north of the village. Muḥammad ibn Pīr ʿAlī (1522-73) was a theologian who wrote many influential works and railed against Ottoman corruption. He came (or was sent out of the way) to teach at the medresa here, becoming known as Birgivi.

Do

Old house on Isabey Sk

• Hamams in Birgi are closed. Derviş Ağa Hamam on Okul Sk is a historic structure that can be visited, Sasallı Hamamı near Grand Mosque is utterly ruined.

Buy

• Local specialties are black mulberry syrup (kara dut suyu) and chestnut candy (kestane tatlısı).
• Bizim Toptan is a supermarket at the foot of the village by the junction with the Ödemiş highway, open M-Sa 09:00-20:00, Su 10:00-19:00.
• For a big shopping load, eg to stock up for self-catering, there's more choice in Ödemiş town.

Eat

• In village centre are Yeni Dünya Kahvaltı, Birgi Ocakbaşı Aile Restaurant and Birgi Sofrası.
• North around Grand Mosque are Birgi.den Cafe, Cemile Sultan Garden, Mor Fesli Kafe, Akasya Sandviç and Birgi Sandviç.

Drink

The restaurants may serve alcohol.

Sleep

• 1 Derviş Ağa Konak Pansiyon, Canpolat Sk 6, ☏ +90 232 531 6060. Welcoming small pansiyon by the Medresesa. B&B double 2000 TL. (updated Dec 2023)
• 2 Birgi Otel Saliha Hanım Taş Konak, Dervişağa Sk 1, ☏ +90 544 646 9383. Pleasant stay in a stone cottage. B&B double 2000 TL. (updated Dec 2023)
• 3 Birgi LaVinya Otel, 18th Evler Sk 1, ☏ +90 544 355 4435. Good location, mostly comfy though one room is tiny small, service and catering erratic. B&B double 1000 TL. (updated Dec 2023)

Connect

As of Dec 2023, Birgi and its approach road from Ödemiş have 4G from all Turkish carriers, but at best a patchy signal in the hills further north. 5G has not rolled out in Turkey.

Go next

• Ödemiş has an archaeology museum but otherwise little reason to linger.
• Mt Bozdağ is the mountain looming to the north. Lake Gölcük is near the summit, with campsites and RV parks around it. The scenic road zigzags and hairpins up the mountain then descends even more steeply to the main road near Sart, ancient capital of the Lydians.