Birsay

Birsay is a small village on the north coast of Orkney Mainland. It's the site of the ruined Earl's Palace, and just offshore is the Brough of Birsay with medieval Norse remains. The surrounding farmland is dotted with ancient standing stones, some incorporated into fence-posts.

Get in

By road

From Kirkwall, take the A965 towards Stromness. The direct route is to turn right at Stenness onto A986, which at Twatt becomes A967, keep following it north to the junction of A966. You're now at Birsay, with the palace just left.

A slow scenic route is to turn off A965 earlier at Finstown onto A966, and follow this round the north coast past Tingwall and Broch of Gurness to meet A967 at Birsay.

From Stromness, take the A965 out of town, and after a mile fork left onto A967. Branch left onto either B-road if you want to visit Skara Brae, otherwise continue north. A987 is joined by A986 around Twatt, continue north to Birsay.

By bus

Henry Hudson, Cook, Frobisher: so many ill-fated expeditions have passed through the Orkneys. And then there’s the bus service to Birsay and Skara Brae.

There’s nothing on Sunday. The options Monday-Saturday are:

Bus 6 from Kirkwall at 7AM and 5:10PM to Birsay, 45 min, back at 7:50AM and 6PM. This runs along the north coast via Tingwall (for Rousay ferry) and Evie (for Broch of Gurness) but doesn’t serve Skara Brae.

Bus 7 from Kirkwall at 1:40PM and 5:30PM to Birsay, with the earlier bus heading back to Kirkwall at 2:10PM while the later bus continues at 6:10PM to Stromness. It doesn’t pass Skara Brae, but you can get off at Sandwick 2 miles away. The reverse service from Stromness only runs at 6:30AM and 7:30AM.

Bus 8S from Kirkwall at 8:30AM or 11:30AM via Stenness to Skara Brae (1 hr) then into Stromness. There are also three connections on X1 from Kirkwall to Stromness to join the return run of 8S via Birsay.

Get around

Birsay itself is small and easy to walk, but check the tide times before crossing to the Brough, eg on Easytide using Stromness as the reference port.

You need wheels to reach outlying sites such as Broch of Gurness and Click Mill, cycling is ideal.

See

Earl's Palace

• 1 Earl's Palace, 1 Bridge, Birsay KW17 2LX. 24 hours. The masonry shell of the palace of Robert Stewart, Earl of Orkney, built in the late 16th century, and a ruin by the 18th. Robert was the first Earl; his son Patrick the second Earl built the palace at Kirkwall. Free. (updated Jul 2024)
• 2 Brough of Birsay. Mid-June to Sep daily 9:30AM-5:30PM depending on tides. This tidal island holds Norse ruins from the 9th to 13th century; a Pictish settlement was here from the 7th century. Original artefacts have been moved to the National Museum of Scotland in Edinburgh, and replicas placed here, and the island has been reinforced to prevent sea erosion of the sites. There's also a 1925 lighthouse and sea-bird colonies. The causeway is passable for two hours either side of low tide: check times online from "Easytide", using Stromness or Tingwall as the reference port. Adult £5. (updated Jul 2024)
• Fishermen's Hut and Whalebone: from the Brough of Birsay carpark, walk east along the north shore. About 10 minutes down the path is a small fishermen's hut with adjacent boat rests. Down a nearby narrow stone stairway is a natural spring. A bit farther down the path is a whalebone erected in the late 19th century and a great view of the Brough.
• 3 Barony Mills, Birsay KW17 2LY, ☏ +44 1856 721439. May-Sep daily 11AM-5PM. Demonstrations of 19th-century milling machinery. Visit by guided tours starting every 45 minutes. Adult £5, child under 12 free. (updated Jul 2024)
• 4 Kirbuster Farm Museum, Hundland Rd KW17 2LR, ☏ +44 1856 771268. Mar-Oct M-Sa 10:30AM-1PM, 2-5PM, Su 1-5PM. Illustrates a 19th-century way of life through its farmhouse with traditional stone bed and central hearth. Donation. (updated Jul 2024)
• Rousay is the high island seen from A966 east towards Evie and Tingwall; the ferry sails from Tingwall. Eynhallow is the small island in the channel between: it has the ruins of a Norse church, but no ferry service.
• 5 Broch of Gurness, Evie KW17 2NH (off A966), ☏ +44 1856 751414. Apr-Sep daily 10AM-4:30PM. Remains of a village settled from 500-200 BC, the Iron Age. Plus artefacts in the Visitor Centre. Adult £7.50, conc £6, child £4.50. (updated Jul 2024)
• Click Mill is an 1820 horizontal water-mill, with its original machinery in working order. It's on Hillside Road between Evie and Dounby. Free, always open.
• Skara Brae: for this and related neolithic sites, see Stenness.

Do

Viking settlement at Brough of Birsay

• Linkshouse, Birsay, Orkney KW17 2LX (south end of main street), ☏ +44 1856 850209. This is an outpost of Pier Art Centre in Stromness and runs residential courses for selected artists. (updated Jul 2024)

Buy

• Palace Stores next to the palace is the general store, open Tu-Su 9AM-5PM. Come early for their homemade pies.
• Birsay Books has second hand and antiquarian books. They're 2 miles south of the palace, open Th F noon-5PM, Sa Su 9AM-5PM.

Eat and drink

• Birsay Bay Tearoom, Birsay KW17 2LX (400 yards south of Earl's Palace), ☏ +44 1856 721399. Th-M 10:30AM-4PM. Beautiful views of the ocean, snacks and light meals. (updated Jul 2024)

Sleep

Lighthouse on Brough of Birsay

• 1 Birsay Outdoor Centre, Birsay KW17 2LY, ☏ +44 1856 873535. Hostel with five bunkrooms (sleep 26) and 28 camping pitches. Run by the Orkney local government, the hostel is open all year but camping only April-Sep. Adult £25, juniors £22. (updated Jul 2024)

Connect

As of July 2024, Birsay has no mobile signal from any UK carrier.

Go next

• Stenness a few miles south has Skara Brae and the Stones of Stenness. Beyond those you reach either Stromness (for ferries to Hoy) or Kirkwall.
• Following the north coast, you pass Broch of Gurness and Tingwall (for the Rousay ferry) before circling back to the Kirkwall main road.
• Rousay island has an impressive collection of prehistoric sites.