Capulalpam

The town square is called the zocalo

Capulalpam de Méndez, usually known as simply Capulalpam, is a small village in the rugged mountains of Oaxaca in southern Mexico. The village is tiny with less than 1,500 residents, yet it was the first town in Oaxaca to be designated a Pueblo Magico. Travelers come for the town's reputation for mystical health treatments where shaman healing methods from the town's Zapotec past are embodied in the town's Indigenous Medicine Center. There's also a cool cave to explore, rock climbing, mountain biking, and a super chill zocalo to hang out at in the afternoon or evening.

Understand

The town has a cool, moist climate due to its high elevation (over 2,000 meters). In addition to the ash and oak trees that commonly grow in the forests, the town is historically known for its chokecherry trees, though various kinds of fruit trees are grown in and around town, including pear, quince, apple, and plum.

Historically, the town is known for initially resisting the Spanish invasion in 1521. Like other towns across Mexico, their efforts ultimately failed. Early Spanish missionaries included Franciscans and Augustinians, though it would be Dominicans who succeeded in converting the locals to Christianity. In the 18th century, mining was the town's main industry. The nearby Dolores mine produced gold and silver.

Get in

By bus

Several buses per day go from Oaxaca to the nearby town of Ixtlan de Juarez. From there, it is a 5-mile taxi ride to Capulalpam. Buses are operated by AU and Cuenca, both are ADO companies. Tickets cost from M$60 to M$600 for the 90-minute ride, depending on time and bus class.

By car

From Oaxaca, take federal highway MEX 175 north to Ixtlan de Juarez, then follow the signs east to Capulalpam. It's about an hour and a half drive on scenic mountain roads. Note that the road between Ixtlan de Juarez and Capulalpam is narrow, undivided, and not particularly well maintained.

Get around

The town itself is compact and easily walkable, but taxis are available for places further afield.

See

Parroquia de San Mateo Apostol

• 1 Parroquia de San Mateo (St Matthew's Church). 16th century baroque style church built by the Dominican missionaries in the center of town. Known for its 15 carved wood religious scenes. Excellent views of the valley. 

Do

• 1 Traditional Medicine Center, 16 de Septiembre, ☏ +52 (951) 539 20 60. appointment times at 09:00, 11:00, 13:00 and 15:00 daily. Traditional Zapotec healers provide medicinal plant therapy, massages, temazcal, and herbal baths. A herbal pharmacy is available and seminars are conducted to educate visitors on the variety of medicinal plants used in traditional Zapotec and Mixtec healing. The temazcal is a sweat lodge that leverages the elements of fire, water, earth, and air to heal both body and soul. 

• 2 Centro Recreativo Los Sabinos, Los Sabinos. 10:00 - 18:00. Natural forest area with towering old-growth cypress trees, paved paths, boardwalks, picnic tables and grills. Dogs allowed. Zipline 30 meters over a mountain stream. Rappeling (extra cost). 

• Cueva de los Arroyos is a local cave. Guided tours take at least 2 hours.

Buy

Many of the local people have jewelry workshops where they create necklaces and other pieces. These are usually sold in Oaxaca, but you can also find local craftsmen and shops selling items.

Eat

Casual regional food is available in the Mercado Municipal.

• 1 El Pedregal (Cockteleria Bar Anddor), Av. Revolucion s/n, ☏ +52 951 539 2092. Bar and restaurant with excellent cocktails, cold beer, micheladas, light food and great views from the outdoor deck. Recommend the caldo Tlalpeño. (updated Jul 2023)
• 2 Restaurante Juquilita, Calle Independencia. Casual restaurant with traditional Mexican food, serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Beer, micheladas and cocktails made with local mescal. (updated Jul 2023)
• 3 El Verbo de Mendez, Emiliano Zapata 3, ☏ +52 951 243 3184. 08:00-22:00 Sa-Su, 16:00-22:00 M-F. Excellent coffee and hot chocolate with deserts and light fare. Crepes, tlayudas, cheesecakes, etc. They also have a campground. M$100. (updated Jul 2023)

Drink

All restaurants have bars. The best place for coffee is El Verbo de Mendez. There are no nightclubs in this town.

Sleep

There are a couple places you can get a room in town, but many people prefer cabins in woodland settings.

• 1 Hotel Chorromonte, Miguel Méndez 10, ☏ +52 9511983519. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Quiet, cozy small hotel with off-street parking, good hot water but weak Wi-Fi. (updated Jul 2023)

Cabins

• 2 El Portillo Cabanas, Miguel Méndez, ☏ +52 951 539 2112. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Cozy, private cabins, excellent service from owners. Good choice for couples or family. (updated Jul 2023)
• 3 Ecotourismo Capulalpam, Loma del Romero, ☏ +52 951 532 5092. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Basic rustic cabins with fireplaces on the edge of town. (updated Jul 2023)

Go next

• Oaxaca
• Monte Alban
• Mitla