Ciudad Mier

Falcon Lake

Ciudad Mier is a small border town on the Rio Bravo (Rio Grande) in northern Tamaulipas. It has a lot of 18th and 19th century historic buildings and offers outstanding recreational opportunities with its location on the banks of Falcon Lake. It is designated as one of Mexico's Pueblos Mágicos.

Understand

The town has an interesting and colorful history with some very old 16th century buildings and quite a few from the 18th and 19th centuries. The town's position with a crossing on the Rio Grande (or Rio Bravo, if you prefer) together with crossings on the Rio Juan and the Rio Aldama made it an early crossroads for commerce into the northern parts of the state of Coahuila-Tejas (until Texas seceded from Mexico in 1836). During the Texas Revolution, the town was the site of an important battle in which Texas rebels attacked the peaceful riverfront community. When the rebels were defeated and 176 of them captured, military commanders ordered 1/10th of the prisoners to be executed by firing squad for treason. A lottery was held in which prisoners chose a bean from a pot. Those who chose a black bean were executed, those who drew a pinto bean were pardoned for their treasonous crimes. (The story is told in the town's Pinto Bean Museum.)

The town saw later military skirmishes during the Mexican-American War (1846-1848) and in the early 20th century during the Mexican Revolution.

In 1956, the town was a staging ground for Fidel Castro and his guerrilla army. Castro paid smugglers to buy weapons in the United States, and bring them across the border to Ciudad Mier. When Castro's "army" was ready, they and their weapons were transported to Veracruz where they boarded a yacht and sailed to Cuba to begin their revolution.

In the early 21st century, the town was slowly infiltrated by members of Los Zetas drug cartel. The Zetas declared all-out war against the Gulf Cartel in February 2010, when hundreds of armed narcos shot at each other, frequently hitting innocent townspeople. They burned buildings and cars, took over the police station, killed the entire town police force, and reigned terror down on anyone left who hadn't either fled across the river into Texas or fled to other towns in Mexico. Overnight, the town became a veritable Ghost Town. The federal and state governments eventually regained control of the town, but at least 75% of the residents did not come back.

The town has a number of historic buildings and is very well preserved. It is a clean, pleasant town to visit, for those who dare.

Get in

By car

From Reynosa, drive west on federal highway MEX-2 for 112 kilometers. The drive will take about 90 minutes.

From McAllen, drive west on highway US 83 for about 50 kilometers. Cross the International Bridge at Rio Grande City. Drive west on federal highway MEX-2 for about 50 kilometers. The drive will take about 90 minutes.

You could also drive east from Nuevo Laredo on highway MEX-2 or from Laredo Texas on US 83, crossing the bridge at Falcon Lake.

See

Capilla de San Juan Bautista

• Capilla de San Juan Bautista. 
• Casa de las Columnas. 
• Casa de la Cultura. 
• Casa de los Tejanos. 
• 1 Casa Cueva, Álvaro Obregón 213, El Parian. Restored historic home that houses the workshop and gallery of contemporary artist, Jacobo Domínguez, The house is unmissable, with its brilliantly painted fuchsia exterior, covered in murals by the artist. Inside, see his signature "Bichos Pachis" figures, in a range of sizes from tiny to gargantuan. 
• 2 Parroquia de la Purísima Concepción, Hidalgo SN Plaza Juarez, C. Morelos 104, El Parian. 
• 3 Museo de los Frijoles Pintos (Museum of the Battle of Mier in 1842), Miguel Barrera 205, Centro. M-F 09:00 - 18:00, Sa-Su 10:00 - 18:00. Tells the story of a historic battle that took place here during the Texas Revolution. The Texas rebels were attacking Mexican communities, working to steal territory beyond that ceded by treaty. The Mexicans won the battle, but were executing 1 out of every 10 prisoners, to be chosen by lottery: prisoners selected a bean from a pot. Those with a pinto bean would live, those with a black bean would face the firing squad. The museum is in a beautifully restored stone house with galleries displaying military equipment, uniforms, maps and interpretive displays. Free. 
• Plaza Independencia. 
• Plaza de Armas. 
• Puentes de Méndez, Hidalgo y de la Virgen. 

Do

Two lakes on the Rio Grande provide recreational opportunities including:

• Fish
• Jet ski
• Waterski
• Sail

• Falcon Lake (Presa la Falcón). 

• Lake Gomez (Presas Marte R. Gómez). 

Festivals

• Feria de Mier, March 6. Agricultural and ranching exposition.
• Fiesta de San Juan Bautista, July 7. Parade, masses and a carnival.
• La Purísima Concepción, 8 diciembre. Celebrates the town's patron saint.

Eat

• 1 Hamburguesas Don Julio, A. Ozuna 901, Las Torres, ☏ +52 897 973 1394. Th-Su 12:00 - 23:00, closed M-W. Casual burger place with tasty, fresh-grilled hamburgers and friendly service. M$100. (updated Jun 2024)

• 2 Tacos y Gorditas Rebe, Terán LB, La Paleta. M,Tu,W,F,Sa 08:00 - 13:00, Th 09:00 - 17:00, closed Su. Clean, casual restaurant with good food and friendly service. Locals recommend the Tacos Piratas and the Guisadas. M$100. (updated Jun 2024)

• 3 El Patron, Puebla, El Parian, ☏ +52 897 102 9012. Tu-Su 10:00 - 20:00, closed M. Traditional Mexican seafood restaurant. Locals recommend the breaded shrimp. Also serves wings. M$200. (updated Jun 2024)

• 4 Tiodorinas Kicho, Hidalgo 305, La Paleta, ☏ +52 897 973 0378. Th-M 13:00 - 00:00. Popular casual restaurant serving tacos and regional specialties. M$250. (updated Jun 2024)

Sleep

A greater selection of hotels is available in Reynosa, or across the river in McAllen, Texas

• 1 Hotel Don Jacinto, Allende 408, La Paleta, ☏ +52 897 102 1198. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 15:00. Moderate hotel. The only choice if you want to spend the night in town. (updated Jun 2024)

Camping

Campsites are available on the U.S. side of the river at Falcon State Park. The park is a few minutes from Ciudad Mier.

Stay safe

Ciudad Meir has been on the frontlines of the war against drugs for most of the 21st century. Many incidents of violence should worry prospective visitors to either side of the border. Police and military members have been killed for investigating crimes. The mayor was murdered by cartel members. A Texas couple, jet skiing on the lake were shot at by cartel members in speedboats, pretending to be Mexican police. In 2010, U.S. investigators uncovered a plot by the Zetas to blow up the Falcon Dam. Life in Ciudad Meir makes episodes of Breaking Bad look dull by comparison. Visitors are advised to visit the town only during daylight and to find hotel lodging in either Reynosa or in the McAllen Texas area.

Go next

• Nuevo Laredo
• Reynosa