Colonsay
Colonsay is an island in the Inner Hebrides, about 8 miles long by 2½ miles wide, with Scalasaig as its main settlement and ferry pier. Colonsay is rocky yet fertile, with fine beaches, and had a population of 135 in 2011. It's linked by a tidal causeway to Oronsay, population 10.
The name “Colonsay” (Gaelic Colbhasa) is said to derive from St Columba, who was banished from Ireland in 563 AD. He supposedly first landed here, but when he found he was still within sight of Ireland he sailed on to Iona. This story doesn’t stand up, and the more credible legend has him landing near the Mull of Kintyre, along a natural sailing route and from which you can indeed see Ireland. But he founded churches and monasteries throughout the Hebrides and probably visited here.
Get in
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1 Colonsay Ferry Terminal is served by Calmac ferries from Oban, taking 2 hr 20 min. In summer these sail five days a week, usually with a 4:30PM departure from Oban, returning from Colonsay at 7PM to arrive back in Oban at 9:15PM. In winter they sail three days a week mid-morning from Oban. Until end of March 2025, return fares are £89.50 per car, £17.40 per adult including driver, and £8.70 per child.
Another ferry sails from Kennacraig in Argyll, calling at Port Askaig on Islay on the way, and taking about four hours. In summer there are two morning sailings per week. These enable a day-trip to Colonsay, as the ferry continues to Oban then turns around, giving you five hours on the island. So from Kennacraig that trip is 12-13 hours in all, and then you’ve the mainland travel to consider. In winter there's only one midday sailing on Saturday from Kennacraig and a day-trip is not possible.
2 Colonsay Airport (CSA IATA). Hebridean Air fly from Oban to Colonsay, usually on Thursday, with a Saturday flight in summer. It's a triangular route, with the morning flight direct to Colonsay (25 min) then to Tiree and back to Oban, and the afternoon flight first to Tiree then on to Colonsay and back to Oban. It’s akin to an airborne school bus, using BNF Islanders, with a 10 kg total baggage limit. One hour in advance is plenty long enough for check-in here; the terminal resembles a Scandi-style chicken shed. The airport is 3 miles southwest of the main village Scalasaig, so you'll want to have a ride organised. 
Get around
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Walk, cycle, or drive – the island is just about big enough to be worth bringing your own vehicle (not least for ease of luggage) and there’s no car hire or taxi service here.
See
edit- 1 Colonsay House Gardens, PA61 7YU, ☏ +44 1951 200312. Apr-Oct Tu, Th noon-5PM. Gardens notable for rhododendrons and woodland species, and the 8th-century Riasg Buidhe Cross. The house, which is Georgian, isn’t open for visits. Adult £3, child £1.
- 2 Colonsay and Oronsay Heritage Trust, Upper Kilchattan PA61 7YU. Small museum of island life in a former chapel. Free.
- 3 Oronsay is a tidal island with a ruined priory, with 15th / 16th-century stone crosses and richly carved grave slabs. The causeway is passable for about 90 min either side of low tide, and you need most of 90 min just to walk across and back. There are no facilities on Oronsay, so you really must get back. Tide times for 7 days ahead are available at Easytide, scroll across the map and click Scarasaig on Colonsay as your reference port. The hotel and Island Shop also know the times.
Do
edit- Beaches: the best is Kiloran Bay. Always be on the look-out for wildlife.
- Colonsay Book Festival is held on the last weekend in April.
- Festival of Spring is a 3-week event held annually in May. It features local arts and crafts, food and drink, and nature, with local and guest speakers. The similar autumn event has folded.
- Ceòl Cholasa is a folk music festival held over the third weekend of September.
Eat
edit- The Pantry, Scalasaig PA671 7YW (next to the pier), ☏ +44 1951 200325. Apr-Oct M, W, F Sa 10AM-8PM, Tu 10AM-3PM. Serves light meals and snacks, licensed.
Drink
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- Colonsay Brewery, Dunoran, Scalasaig PA61 7YZ (behind Island Shop), ☏ +44 1951 200190. M W F Sa 3-5PM. Produces its own beers. IPA, 80 Shilling and Pigs Paradise Blonde are their core products. They also distill "Wild Island" gin.
- Wild Thyme Spirits, Tigh na Uruisg, Upper Kilchattan PA61 7YR (next to museum), ☏ +44 1951 200082. M-Th 10AM-6PM, F Sa 10AM-4PM. Founded in 2016, this makes gin. Tours available.
- Colonsay Pub is closed and up for sale in 2024.
Buy
edit- The Island Shop, Scalasaig PA61 7YW (100 yards north of ferry pier), ☏ +44 7469 918558. Apr-Oct M-F 9AM-5:30PM, Sa 9AM-3PM; Nov-Mar M W F 9AM-5PM, Tu Th Sa 9AM-1:30PM. Well stocked grocer, will deliver orders (including to meet your arrival) if ordered online a few days in advance. Post Office and petrol and diesel pumps are here.
- Colonsay Bookshop specialises in books of local interest, and is the base for House of Lochar, publishers of Scottish history. It's behind the Island Shop, open Apr-Oct M-Sa 10:30AM-12:30PM.
Sleep
edit- 1 Colonsay Hotel, Scalasaig PA61 7YP, ☏ +44 1951 200316. The island's only hotel, near the pier in a charming 18th-century inn, with an excellent restaurant. B&B double £200.
- 2 Backpacker's Lodge, Kiloran PA61 7YT (2 km north from ferry), ☏ +44 1951 200312. 16-bed hostel with private rooms and bothy bunks. Bunk £40.
- Self-catering: The hotel runs 16 holiday lets across the island, ranging from crofters’ cottages to Victorian farmhouses and estate mansions, and the Backpacker's Lodge. Contact for all of them is via the hotel website.
- Wild camping is allowed on Colonsay as with the rest of Scotland. There are mixed reports about wild camping on the RSPB-managed Oronsay.
Go next
edit- The usual route back to the mainland is the ferry to Oban.
- The ferry to Kennacraig calls at Port Askaig on Islay twice per week in summer, once in winter. From there it's a short ferry crossing to the Isle of Jura.
- From Kennacraig either turn south to Gigha and the Mull of Kintyre, or north towards Tarbert (Loch Fyne) and the main road to Glasgow.