Comayagua

Comayagua is a historical city in and once brief capital of Honduras. It has maintained much of its picturesque Spanish Colonial era architecture.

Understand

Sawdust carpet in Comayagua

Comayagua was founded by Conquistador Alonso de Cáceres with the name Santa María de la Nueva Valladolid on 8 December 1537 and is a big draw for tourists because of its historical significance. It is the old capital of Honduras, which is why you can see so much culture there.

Get in

Comayagua is about 1-1.5 hour or 92 km north of Tegucigalpa by car or bus on Carretera del Norte (CA-5)

By plane

• 1 Palmerola International Airport (XPL  ^IATA), KM 86 Carretera del Norte CA-5, Comayagua (86 km northwest of Tegucigalpa and 6 km south of Comayagua on Carretera del Norte (CA-5)). The new international airport was built on the Soto Cano Air base and inaugurated in October 2021 as the country's new international airport for civil and commercial use. It is served by the following: (updated Jul 2023)

• Aeromexico Connect (Mexico City).
• Avianca Holdings (San Salvador, Guatemala City, Bogota)
• American Airlines (Miami and seasonally from Dallas)
• Copa (Panama City)
• Iberojet (Madrid)
• Spirit Airlines (from Fort Lauderdale and seasonally from Houston)
• United (Houston)

• 2 Toncontín International Airport (TGU ^IATA) (88.3 km south of the Palmerola International Airport in Tegucigalpa via CA-5.). The old Toncontín Airport in town is still in operation for domestic and international flights with the following:  

• Aerolíneas Sosa (La Ceiba, Roatán)
• CM (Islas Guanaja, La Ceiba, Puerto Lempira, Roatán, San Pedro Sula, Islas Utila, Belize City, Flores, San Salvador, Guatemala City)
• Lanhsa operates to Islas Guanaja, Puerto Lempira, Roatán, San Pedro Sula, Islas Utila via La Ceiba. Check schedules.

Further away, but on a better road (CA-5), is the Ramón Villeda Morales International Airport in San Pedro Sula, the busiest in Honduras, which is another 160 km north (2 hrs) north on CA-5.

Rent a car at either of those airports, or catch one of the many buses running the SPS-Tegucigalpa-SPS route.

Get around

By taxi

Taxis abound. Fares for anywhere in town, before 18:00, are L20 (lempiras) per person. Rates go up after 18:00 and again in the evening hours. Rates may even be higher at 03:00 or so. Always ask the fare before entering the cab.

See

• 1 Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception (Catedral de la Inmaculada Concepción) (in the main square). Open 24 Hours. Established in 1711, it is an outstanding example of 18th-century colonial architecture. It also contains the oldest clock in America, made by Arabs during their occupation of Spain in the 1100s and bequeathed to the cathedral by King Carlos III. Here also is the Plaza Central Leon Alvarado, the main square in Comayagua. (updated Jul 2020)

• 2 Iglesia de la Merced (Church of Mercy), Calle 1 NO (three blocks south of the cathedral). This is the oldest church in Honduras, built in 1550 by Fray Gaspar de Quintanilla. It was actually called the Iglesia de la Inmaculada Concepción until the present one was built in 1711. Located in the colonial old town, it was designated a cathedral in 1561 and dedicated to the Virgin Mary. It displays Baroque and Renaissance Colonial architecture and has withstood earthquakes. Adjacent to the church is the Plaza Merced with the Monument to the Constitution of 1812. (updated Jul 2020)

• 3 Iglesia de San Francisco, 6a Calle NO (two blocks north of the cathedral, adjoining the Plaza San Francisco). This is the second oldest church in Coyamagua, after Iglesia de la Merced, and was built in 1560 by Bishop Fray Alonso de la Cerda in the colonial old town. It was dedicated to St. Francis of Assisi. Also featuring Baroque and late colonial Renaissance architectural style, what is distinctive about this church is that it has the oldest bell in America, the Antonina Bell, having been cast in Alcalá de Henares, Spain in 1460 for a religious congregation there and then brought to New Spain (Honduras). (updated Jul 2020)

• 4 Iglesia de la Caridad (Church of the Charity), Calle 7 NO (a few blocks northwest of the cathedral). 07:00-18:00 Daily. This was also a church built during the colonial era (established 1654). It is unique in that it functioned as a church for the mulattoes and indigenous peoples of the time, where the Indians had an open chapel on the back of the presbytery. Here also is where several soldiers were shot on the south side of the church for having revolted under the government of General Luis Bográn in 1886, and where Canon Don Luis Ortega Licona is buried. (updated Jul 2020)

• 5 Caxa Real (Casa de la Moneda), 5a Calle NO (one block north of the cathedral), ☏ +504 98258677. M-F 08:00-16:00; Sa 08:00-12:00; Closed Sunday. A colonial house that was built between 1739 and 1741 by Bartolomé de Maradiaga as a center where the tributes for the Spanish crown were stored, the gold, silver and plaster extracted from the mines of Honduras. Survived a severe earthquake in 1774. Today, with national monument status, it functions as an events center for important dignitaries such as Queen Letizia of Spain and President Nieto of Mexico and other venues. (updated Jul 2020)
• 6 Archeological Museum (Museo Arqueologico). M Tu Th F 08:00-16:00. An in-depth look at the Lenca civilization and history of Honduras, from pre-Columbian to modern times, with prehistoric artifacts, pottery, etc. Very well-done museum. (updated Jul 2020)
• 7 Cabanas House and Historical Museum (Museo Histórico y Cívico Casa Cabañas), Avenida 2 NO (one block south of the cathedral). M-Sa 08:00-16:00. A museum of Comayaguense culture and Honduran history with such peculiarities as the sword of Francisco Morazon. (updated Jul 2020)
• 8 Sitio Arqueológico El Chilcal, ☏ +504 94438288. Open 24 hours. Archeological site consisting of ruins of an ancient Lenca settlement cerca 1200-400 BCE, one area (Site 101) designated for artisanal purposes and another (Site 102) closer to the river for ceremonial rites. (updated Jul 2020)
• 9 El Cristo De Cane, Cane, Honduras. Open 24 hours. This is a nice Jesus statue overlooking the valley. Maybe not quite as nice as the one in Tegucigalpa, but it still offers a great vantage point. (updated Jul 2020)

Do

Many outdoor recreation areas such as Comayagua Mountain National Park and waterfalls exist in the area for exploring.

• 1 Villamar Park, ☏ +504 94646412, villamarparkeventos@gmail.com. Daily 09:00-18:00. A prehistoric-type theme park/water park, for when you want to bring out your inner dinosaur, or when the kids need a break from seeing churches. It does have a lot of concrete dinosaurs. (updated Jul 2020)

Eat

• Restaurante Sabor Colonial (Colonial House Restaurant) (next to Hotel Caxa Real on Paseo Ronda de la Alameda), ☏ +504 2740-0146. Colorful and festive venue of local flavors. 
• Restaurante El Torito (Toritos Restaurant), CA-5 (on the main highway, just south of town). Toritos is probably the best restaurant in town. Known for their excellent steaks, they also serve seafood and chicken. Full bar, credit cards accepted. Air-conditioned. Secure parking. 
• Fast Food Restaurants, CA-5 (on the main highway, between the old and new boulevards). On the main highway, between the two major intersections, is a Pizza Hut, a Burger King, Dunkin' Donuts, Baskin Robbins, and a Pollo Compenero. Wendy's is about a quarter of a mile towards town, on the "old" boulevard. Go towards town at the Texaco, you'll see it on the left. 
• Golosinas. These small, inexpensive, family-run restaurants serving typical Honduran food and either fried or rotisserie chicken are on every block it seems. Food preparation in Honduras is not tightly regulated as it is in the US, so caution is on order when in any restaurant. But after being in-country for a few weeks, you should be able to eat pretty much anywhere. 
• Mang Ying, Old Blvd (4th Ave) and 7th St (turn off the main highway at Texaco, continue through town for about 1.6 km (0.99 mi)). There are many Chinese restaurants in Comayagua, most of them serving the same food, but Mang Ying is probably the best. Expect giant portions. A decent atmosphere, with large photos of Chinese landmarks and generous seating partially makes up for the fact that "American" style Chinese food, such as General Cho's Chicken, is absent from the menu. Overall, good food, prepared quickly. Air-conditioned. No credit cards accepted. Secure parking. 
• Asados La Casita, Old Blvd (Ave 4) and 1st ST, approx (from the main highway, go towards town at the Texaco, maybe 400 m (1,300 ft), on the right). Excellent family restaurant with the one of the only true grills in town (there are more than a few street food vendors around town who grill skewers of meat and white corn-on-the-cob). Grilled favorites such as steak, pork chops, sausage, and barbecue chicken are accompanied with tortillas, rice, beans, chismol, cooked plantains, and a trio of sauces in a farmhouse atmosphere. The walls are covered with original paintings depcting pastoral Honduran life, and antique Honduran tools and small farm implements that would have been used in a Honduran casita of years past. Reasonable prices. Air conditioning. Secure Parking. No credit cards accepted. 

Sleep

• 1 Hotel Antigua Comayagua, 6a Calle NO (a block west of Iglesia de San Francisco), ☏ +504 27720816. Colonial type building with breakfast, pool, and wifi. ~$41. (updated Jul 2020)
• 2 Hotel Caxa Real (a block away from cathedral and Caxa Real), ☏ +504 27724645. Cozy clean rooms, hot water. (updated Jul 2020)

Stay safe

Do not drink the water anywhere in Honduras.