Coscomatepec
Coscomatepec is a small, historically Totonac town in the mountains of Central Veracruz. Visitors come for the storied colonial downtown area of town, or perhaps to see (or maybe to climb) Pico de Orizaba, an active volcano and the highest mountain in Mexico. The town is one of Mexico's designated Pueblos Mágicos.
Understand
editThe town is officially, but never actually called Coscomatepec del Bravo, the town is usually referred to more colloquially as Cosco. It was originally settled in 1325 by the Totonac people, an indigenous culture believed to have descended from the people of Teotihuacan. The town paid heavy tributes to the Aztec empire until the conquest. The Spanish arrived in town in 1597 to establish their dominion. In 1620, they moved 60 enslaved families from Mexico City to the town. Coscomatepec was a significant site in the Mexican War of Independence when General Nicolas de Bravo, leading 600 freedom fighters, stormed the Spanish stronghold in the wee hours of October 4, 1813.
Get in
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The best way to get to Coscomatepec is to take an ADO or AU bus to Córdoba and then take a regional bus or a taxi to Coscomatepec. ADO and AU operate several buses per day to Cordoba, which takes about 2 hours and costs about M$100 one way. From Cordoba, a taxi will take about 30 minutes and cost about M$200. Astro buses to Coscomatepec are cheaper but only depart a couple times per day.
By car
editCoscomatepec is 28 km northwest of Córdoba via federal highway MEX-143. The drive will take about 50 minutes.
By bus
editGet around
editThe town is fairly compact and easily navigated by walking or using a bicycle. The street layout is a bit chaotic though and can be confusing because many streets are both numbered and named. For example, Calle 1 Ignacio Zaragoza or Avenida 8 Hermanos Galeana.
See
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- 1 Museum of Archaeology and History, Av. 3 Benito Juarez, Centro, ☏ +52 273 119 1044. Su-F 10:00 - 19:00, closed Sa. Small regional history museum displaying artifacts from the past.
- 2 Parroquia San Juan Bautista, Calle 1 Ignacio Zaragoza, Centro. Built in the 17th century in a neo-classical style, the church's architectural features include twin, tall bell towers, three naves, and a series of arches inside the church along the length of the main nave. The church houses an artistic interpretation of Luke 22:44, portraying the agony of Jesus on the night between the last supper and the crucifixion (one of only 3 in the world).
- 3 Iglesia San Diego, Calle 1 Bis Amez Y Arguelles 3. Oldest church in Coscomatepec, founded by Francisco de Bernal in 1535. It is a simple church with a single vault with a rounded ceiling and a single bell tower.
Do
editFestivals
edit- Festival de San Juan Bautista - the annual celebration of the town's patron saint takes place June 24. The party features a parade, carnival midway, regional foods and drinks, music, and fireworks.
- Ruptura del Sitio - civic celebration held in early October to commemorate the historic attack on the Spanish royalist stronghold, led by Nicolas Bravo. A re-enactment takes place October 3 followed by a military parade on October 4
Buy
editTravelers who appreciate Artesanal hand-crafts will find a number of shops selling locally made leather goods, particularly saddles, belts, wallets and leather bags.
Monday is market day in Coscomatepec, and although there is no permanent market, a tianguis is set up starting at about 7am on Calle 1 Ignacio Zaragoza with numerous vendors selling fresh produce, meats (including rabbit, sheep, and goat), and a wide range of prepared regional dishes.
The town is known for its artesanal cigar makers. The city's tourism department can arrange a tour to visit the workshops of various craftsmen, most of whom work out of their own homes. Tobacco is brought into town, treated with vanilla and liquors, and dried before being rolled into cigars (puros) by the craftsmen.
Eat
editCoscomatepec's gastronomy derives mostly from common dishes of Central Mexico with occasional local variations, such as barbacoa blanco, which is pit-cooked chicken spiced with a guajillo chile based marinade (barbacoas elsewhere in Mexico are made using pork).
A regional specialty associated with Coscomatepec is tlatonile. This local dish is a type of mole made with chile comapeño, Ccile ancho, sesame seeds and epazote. The town is also famous for its baked goods and if you get a chance, it would be worth stopping in at one of their several bakeries.
- 1 Cafe 88, México 125 No. 202, ☏ +52 273 737 0464. Daily 09:00 - 22:00. Small, modern, inviting cafe serving an international menu of diner-style breakfast, sandwiches and desserts. M$150.
- 2 La Casa de los Abuelos, Gral. Aquiles Serdán 26, ☏ +52 273 111 6631. Daily 09:00 - 17:00. Cozy, family-style restaurant with a varied menu of traditional Mexican and international dishes like garlic spaghetti. Free coffee at the end of each meal. M$150.
- 3 Tere's, Avenida Nicolás Bravo 70, Centro, ☏ +52 273 737 1520. Tu-Su 09:00 - 21:00, closed M. Casual restaurant serving traditional Mexican food. Portions tend to be small, so order appropriately. Good, freshly brewed coffee. M$150.
- 4 Restaurante Boulevard, Av 1 Nicolás Bravo, ☏ +52 273 737 0311. Daily 07:00 - 19:00. Casual restaurant with modern decor, large dining room, and traditional Mexican cuisine including carnitas, sopes, mole and more. Good value for the money. Ample parking lot. M$150.
- 5 El Sanjuanero, Carretera federal, Fortin - Huatusco km 26.16, ☏ +52 273 688 1106. Daily 08:00 - 18:00. Casual restaurant serving traditional Mexican dishes from many regions of Mexico. You can get Motuleños like you'd find in the Yucatan, or birria like you'd find in Jalisco. Artesanal local craft beers available. M$150.
Drink
editSleep
edit- 1 Plaza Real, Los Bravos 20, ☏ +52 273 737 0096. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Traditional Mexican hotel with rooms set around a central courtyard. Rooms are spacious but minimally furnished with worn linens.
- 2 Hotel San Antonio, Av 1 Nicolás Bravo 35, Centro, ☏ +52 273 737 0320. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Budget hotel with minimally furnished rooms.