Cumaná

Cumaná is the capital of the state of Sucre in Venezuela.

Understand

Cumaná is said to be the oldest continuously inhabited city by Europeans in South America and, to that end, one of the first in all of mainland America, starting as a settlement by Franciscan friars in 1515 with the name Nuevo Toledo. It saw a volatile history of military engagement between the indigenous Cumanagoto people and the Spanish conquistadors until the former were finally routed in a not-so-innocuous way at which point Cumaná became a viceroyalty of Spain. The city has a distinguished claim of being the birthplace of Antonio José de Sucre - the ‘Gran Mariscal de Ayacucho’ - a leading general and President of Bolivia, plus the home of poets and politicians and scientists such as Alexander von Humboldt. Unfortunately, it has seen a fair share of earthquakes, too, necessitating rebuilding over the years.

Today, sitting across an inlet of the Caribbean from the Araya Peninsula, Cumaná is regarded for its large tuna industry and proximity to the prized Caribbean destination Mochima National Park.

Get in

Being about 400 km east of Caracas, Cumaná is about a 6 hour drive from the national capital along Trunk Road 9. There is also infrequent flight service, mostly to/from Caracas, with limited amenities like money exchange and food service, out of Cumaná's

• 1 Antonio José de Sucre Airport, ☏ +58 293 4672340. (updated Sep 2020)

Ferry service to/from Punta de Piedras (Araya Peninsula of Sucre State) is provided by:

• 1 Naviarca. The quality of their vessels and docks can be a little sketchy. (updated Sep 2020)

Get around

For intra-city bus service, try Bus Cumaná Sucre.

See

Castillo San Antonio de la Eminencia

• 1 San Antonio de la Eminencia Castle. Old Spanish fort, with a small museum and dungeon. Try to be a little careful due to the insecurity of the area. (updated Sep 2020)
• 2 Santa Maria de la Cabeza Castle. This fortification was meant to serve as a replacement for San Antonio de la Eminencia Castle, which was seen to have defense limitations, and to serve as a viceroyalty residence, but it was wracked by a severe earthquake in 1684 and then decimated by another in 1929. (updated Sep 2020)
• 3 Cumaná Museum of Contemporary Art, ☏ +58 426 1801045. Little artistic odds and ends here. (updated Sep 2020)
• 4 Casa Natal de Andrés Eloy Blanco. Birthplace/home of a famous poet from Cumaná. (updated Sep 2020)
• 5 Museo Gran Mariscal de Ayacucho, ☏ +58 293 4321896. 08:00-18:00 M-F, 14:00-19:00 Sa-Su. Birthplace and museum about the man, Antonio Jose de Sucre (El Gran Mariscal de Ayacucho), the hero of Venezuela, in that his efforts were seen pivotal in winning the fight for independence from imperial Spain. He also served as the country's first president. (updated Sep 2020)
• 6 Cumaná Cathedral. Archdiocese of Cumana, originally constructed in 18th century but present structure is from 1936 due to an earthquake. It has a lot of wood in the interior. (updated Sep 2020)
• 7 Plaza Bolivar. Cumaná's compulsory Bolivar statue and plaza, with the state capital building sitting adjacent. (updated Sep 2020)
• 8 Iglesia Santa Ines. The oldest cathedral in Cumaná, restored in 1853. External blue hue is like that of a baby bird egg. (updated Sep 2020)
• 9 Ruinas del Convento de San Francisco. A place of historic significance to Cumana and its Catholic heritage. (updated Sep 2020)
• 10 Museo del Mar, Calle Sta Ines, ☏ +58 293 4008420. 10:00-17:00 M-Sa, closed Su. This natural history museum mostly focuses on exhibits relating to marine science and the nautical field. You might see a Coelacanth. (updated Sep 2020)
• 11 Monumento De Los 500 Años. Here you can find an array of seaside monuments, one of which will allow you to get your photo taken next to a Franciscan missionary and hapless indigenous man. But also here you'll find some excellent sunsets. (updated Sep 2020)
• 12 Castillo de Araya (to get here, either take the ferry from Cumana docks or prepare for a long drive!). This Spanish fort's particular purpose was to protect noisome competitors from messing with the pearl beds in the area. Then the salt pans were noticed and that became a source of contention for a while. (updated Sep 2020)

Do

• 1 Playa San Luis, Avenida Universidad, ☏ +58 293 4323781. Relaxing beach. (updated Sep 2020)
• 2 Playa El Castillo. This beach is right below the Castillo de Araya. The flora is considerably more xerophytic on the peninsular portion of Sucre. (updated Sep 2020)

Eat

• 1 Restaurant Vino Bar Cafe, in Marina Plaza Shopping Mall. Here's a chance to eat some local seafood and watch the local fishing trade go in and out. (updated Sep 2020)
• 2 Puerto Escondido II, ☏ +58 293 4325118. 10:00-18:00 T-Su, closed M. More seafood. (updated Sep 2020)
• 3 Restaurante El Teide. 11:00-22:00 daily. Venezuelan regional/seafood cuisine, with bar. (updated Sep 2020)

Sleep

Hopefully the tourist beat will be back someday.

• 1 Hotel Venetur Cumaná, Avenida Universidad, ☏ +58 412 2568603. Has all the makings of a fine beach resort. Pool, spa, beach, free breakfast. Things must have been great prior to the current state of the country. (updated Sep 2020)
• 2 Hotel Los Bordones, ☏ +58 412 1810907. Pools, beaches, palm trees blowing in the seaside breeze, what's not to like? (updated Sep 2020)
• 3 Posada San Francisco, Calle Sucre, ☏ +58 293 4313926. A cozy villa with wifi and bar where you will feel like you are in Latin America. (updated Sep 2020)

You can also find some cozy posadas for accommodation on the Araya Peninsula across from Cumaná, a fairly short ferry ride away.

Go next

If possible, a visit to Mochima National Park would be a good option while you're in the area. It is recognized for its landscapes and, of course, beaches.