Desolation Sound

Desolation Sound is a popular boating and kayaking destination north of the Sunshine Coast in the province of British Columbia. It is an area of huge mountains and wilderness with little civilization and untouched cruising grounds. For purposes of this guide, it includes the eastern portion of the Discovery Islands (East and West Redonda Islands), Desolation Sound Marine Provincial Park and Toba Inlet. This article does not include information about 1 Cortes Island, which has its own article and forms the western edge of Desolation Sound.

Understand

Desolation Sound was inhabited by tribes of the Mainland Comox First Nation prior to the arrival of Europeans. In the summer of 1792, two expeditions led by Captains George Vancouver, Dionisio Alcalá Galiano and Cayetano Valdés y Flores arrived and cooperated in mapping the sound. Vancouver named it Desolation Sound, cryptically claiming that "there was not a single prospect that was pleasing to the eye".

Get in

A moody Desolation Sound

By boat

There is no scheduled ferry service to Desolation Sound. Aside from operating a private boat, the only other option is to hire a water taxi from Campbell River (on Vancouver Island) or Lund on the Sunshine Coast.

• Discovery Launch Water Taxi, ☏ +1 250-287-7577, info@discoverylaunch.com. Campbell River based service provider of water taxi services to the Discovery Islands, coastal inlets, as well as some of the northern Sunshine Coast and parts of Vancouver Island. All of their boats are equipped to carry kayaks. They also offer some tours. $80 for the regular scheduled service, more otherwise. (updated Dec 2015)
• Lund Water Taxi, ☏ +1 604-483-9749. Small operator based out of Lund. Can drop-off and pick-up to locations in the area including Cortes Island, Desolation Sound, and Savary Island. Offers bicycle and kayak transfer service. (updated May 2023)
• Quest Water Taxi, ☏ +1 778-346-0021, toll-free: +1-855-659-2327. Campbell River based provider of water taxi service. Service area includes around Campbell River, Comox, Courtenay, Discovery Islands, Lund, Powell River, and Mainland Inlets. (updated May 2023)
• Way West Water Taxi, ☏ +1 250-286-3050. Campbell River based water taxi serving a number of the Discovery Islands, including Dent, Sonora, Read, Maurelle and East Thurlow. They will also go to many other locations within the islands and the coastal inlets, including the lodges. They also load kayaks and can drop you off/pick you up from locations within the islands. They can also arrange sight-seeing tours. $80 to one of the scheduled stops, more otherwise. (updated May 2023)

By seaplane

• Corilair, ☏ +1 250-287-8371, toll-free: +1-888-287-8366, fax: +1 250-287-3481, reservations@corilair.com. Corilair operates scheduled seaplane service to Refuge Cove and destinations in Desolation Sound from their base in Campbell River three days a week in winter and three times daily in summer. There is also a daily scheduled service between Campbell River and Vancouver International Airport from late June to early Sept that will make stops in Refuge Cove and Desolation Sound, if requested. $100 and up (for scheduled service between Campbell River and the Discovery Islands). (updated Jan 2016)
• Kenmore Air, ☏ +1 425-486-1257, reservations@kenmoreair.com. Kenmore Air offers scheduled flights four times a week from Kenmore Air Harbour, north of Seattle in the United States, to Refuge Cove and Prideaux Haven in Desolation Sound Marine Provincial Park from late May through late Sept. Daily flights are available mid-June to early Sept. Expect a customs and immigration stop in Nanaimo. $650 (US$) round trip. (updated Jan 2016)
• NW Seaplanes, toll-free: +1-800-690-0086. NW Seaplanes operates scheduled service from Renton, south of Seattle, to Refuge Cove and destinations in Desolation Sound Marine Provincial Park. $329 (US$) and up, one way. (updated Jan 2016)

Get around

By boat

• The best way to get around is by private boat. It is a premiere experience to travel around the area by sail boat.

See

Waterfalls in Toba Inlet

Do

• 1 Teakerne Arm Provincial Park, West Redonda Island, head of Teakerne Arm. The highlight is Cassel Falls, which fall directly into the ocean. There is a hiking trail to Cassel Lake, as well as fishing and swimming in both the ocean (Teakerne Arm) and Cassel Lake. No fee. (updated Jan 2016)
• 2 Desolation Sound Marine Provincial Park. (updated Mar 2015)
• 3 Roscoe Bay Provincial Park, West Redonda Island, off the Waddington Channel. A park set around a small fjord with fishing, wilderness camping and anchorage. There is also a short trail to Black Lake, with a hiking trail along the lakeshore, swimming and fishing. Swimming is not recommended in Roscoe Bay. There are pit toilets but no other facilities. No fee for day use; $5/night if camping. (updated Jan 2016)

Buy

• 1 Refuge Cove General Store, Refuge Cove Marina, West Redonda Island. All facilities open June-Sept; Oct-May only the general store and fueling station are open, M W F 1PM-3PM. Marina with a general store and food supplies. There is also laundry facilities, showers and a coffee shop open seasonally. (updated Jan 2016)

Eat

Eating options are pretty much limited to the accommodation you're staying at. Limited food supplies are available from the general store at Refuge Cove, otherwise you'll need to bring all your food with you.

Sleep

• 1 Cabana Desolation Eco Resort, Kinghorn Island, ☏ +1 604-483-2160, toll-free: +1 866 617-4444 (N America only), info@bcseakayak.com. Check-in: 3PM, check-out: 11AM. Cabana-style lodging on an island well-situated to explore Cortes Island and Desolation Sound by kayak. Each cabana is made from local wood with a bright airy design and is equipped with a queen bed and shower. Toilets are shared and set throughout the property. Meals and non-alcoholic beverages are complimentary and provided in the Cabana Cafe. Guests have one kayak to use and are free to use the beach chairs, hammocks and stand-up paddleboards. Other perks include coffee/tea in bed and a complimentary happy hour beverage. personal headlamps, personal mask/snorkel sets and dry bags for kayaking excursions. Accommodation comes under one of two packages: “Chill & Immerse”, for those who don’t want to kayak or want to kayak on their own, and “Guided”, for those looking for a guided kayaking experience. The island is accessed by kayaking out to it from Power River Sea Kayak’s launch spot on Okeover Inlet or you can pay $100 (round trip) for boat transport. Open mid-May through the end of Sept; peak period is considered late-June to early-Sept. Chill & Immerse package: $975-$1575 per person (2-4 nights), Guided: $1345 and up. There’s a minimum two night stay for Chill & Immerse guests and three day minimum for Guided tour guests. (updated Sep 2019)
• 2 Klahoose Wilderness Resort, Homfray Channel (Desolation Sound) (behind Foster Point between Forbes Bay and Attwood Bay), ☏ +1 250-935-8539, toll-free: +1-833-443-3838, info@homfraylodge.com. Lodge and cabins located on Desolation Sound. The cabins sleep 4-6 and have a kitchenette, 3 pc bathroom, private balcony and small BBQ. Some rooms sleep 3 and have a 3 pc bathroom; cooking is done at the shared cookhouse. Amenities include Wifi, a common room in the lodge and firepit. The lodge can arrange fishing charters and sightseeing trips in the local area including Toba Inlet and Bute Inlet, and will provide transport to and from local hiking and mountain biking spots. It rents kayaks, mountain bikes and fishing gear. Moorage is available for people with their own boats. Open mid-May through Sept. $125 (Ridge Row rooms), $250-300 (cabins). (updated Jan 2016)
• 3 Toba Wilderness Marina, mouth of the Toba Inlet, ☏ +1 250 830-2269. Quiet location with overnight moorage. There is a waterfall nearby and hiking trails on the property. No onshore accommodations. (updated Jun 2018)