El Puerto de Santa María

Castillo de San Marcos

El Puerto de Santa Maria (El Puerto for short) is a city of 88,000 people (2018) in Cádiz Province in the Andalucia region of Spain. It lies on the North-East shore of the Cadiz Bay and is easily reachable from the city of Cádiz in a short boat trip aboard "El vaporcito" (or "El vapor del Puerto")

Understand

El Puerto de Santa María is at the eastern end of the bay or lagoon of Cádiz. In the region, the place is usually called "El Puerto". Christopher Columbus set out from Cádiz on his second voyage (1493-96) to America and organized this trip from El Puerto, among other places. In contrast to the first trip, not with three, but with 17 ships. As a result, the place profited greatly from trade with the colonies. Today there is no more shipping from here, but there is some fishing. A replica of the Niña on a traffic roundabout commemorates this trip.

With Sanlucar de Barrameda and Jerez de la Frontera, the city forms the so-called "sherry triangle". Only fortified wines that are produced in one of these three cities are allowed to carry the sherry designation of origin. The oversized "Black Bull", the well-known advertising sign for the local sherry and brandy winery Osborne is now considered a symbol of Spain.

Nowadays the place between the salt marshes, marshland, industrial plants and a network of motorways that surround the Bahía de Cádiz is almost indiscernible. But if you penetrate the center of the town between the same industrial areas of a large metropolis, you can expect a small-town flair and the descendants of what was once a great story. Especially in the high season in summer the city center comes to life, where many Andalusians from Seville, Jérez or Cádiz spend a nice evening.

After Seville, El Puerto is the second most important bullfighting site in Andalusia. The bullring Plaza de Toros is on the edge of the old town (Calle de la Mora, 10).

The district of Valdegrana on the left of the river is primarily an industrial and commercial area, but also has a climbing park in the Los Toruños Natural Park near the S-Bahn station and a long sandy beach.

Get in

By air

• The nearest airport is Jerez (XRY ^IATA) has direct flights from Madrid, Mallorca and Barcelona in Spain, and from destinations in Austria, Belgium, England, Germany, and Portugal. However, many of the international flights are seasonal or not daily. It is a 30-minute drive via the A4. In 2020, the train cost €2.90, but not all trains go through, then you have to use an ordinary train, which requires a different ticket.
• Another option is to fly into Seville (SVQ ^IATA) (about 1-hour drive or train ride away).
• Malaga (AGP ^IATA) is also an option but not as easy to reach (about 1½-hour drive).

By train

From Madrid (Atocha train station), there are 3 daily (4 in the summer) Alvia trains direct to Cádiz which stop at El Puerto. The railway station (Estacion RENFE) is on the Cádiz-Seville railway line, but only regional trains and a few express trains stop. The train to Cádiz goes the long way via San Fernando and takes 35 minutes (2020: €3.90). In the other direction to Jerez you are 10 minutes on the train. If you need a wider range of schedules you can consider taking an AVE to Seville and then a Media Distancia (regional train) to El Puerto.

• 1 El Puerto de Santa María railway station (Estación de El Puerto de Santa María). (updated Nov 2021)

By bus

• Buses leave from Madrid's Estacion Sur de Autobuses in Mendez Alvaro and are operated by Socibus/Sercobus. There are several a day (including an overnight service) and stop at other towns and cities along the way.
• Buses from other places in Andalucia (including Malaga and Seville) are operated by COMES.

The place is connected to the transport network of the metropolitan region of Cádiz. Jerez, Cádiz and the surrounding areas can be reached frequently and easily. Nationally, the operators Comes and Los Amarillos connect the place with Seville, Madrid, Tarifa, Algeciras and Granada.

Socibus runs from the cafe on the station forecourt (also ticket sales) to Cordoba, Madrid and larger cities in the Basque Country.

By car

El Puerto de Santa María is on the southern end point of the sherry triangle and connects to the industrial areas of the Bahia de Cádiz, the northern end point of which it represents. There is no shortage of roads that are mostly built similar to autobahns, these are now more of a bypass ring, on which one can easily lose one's orientation.

In the north-south direction, the A-4 and the N-IV, which are often dedicated to the same, touch the town, and a little further inland there is also the toll AP-4 / E-5. A little to the north, the A-491, which has just been converted into a motorway, branches off in a westerly direction to Rota and connects to the A-4.

By ship

From Terminal Marítima, there are passenger ferries to the central pier in Cádiz (near the train station). In winter there are 9 boats on weekdays and only 4 on weekends. The journey costs €2.80 (2020), which is cheaper but just as fast as the train. When the sea is rough, there is "ship replacement service" with buses.

Get around

• There are several local buses operated by Puerto Bus that tend to operate every 30-40 min, check their website for routes and schedules. A single-fair ticket costs €1 but there's also multi-fare options which offer discounts.
• Taxis are also available and not too expensive (average cost from the train station to any area in the city center will be around €4). However, if you are going heading toward Fuentebravia or other areas outside the city limits the prices are higher. There are designated taxi stops at several locations or you can call via telephone (local number is 956 85 85 84).
• Several of the streets downtown have been closed to traffic, except for local residents. Parking is usually not a problem in most areas except during the Summer months (June to September). Downtown there are several public parkings which are reasonably priced.
• The main part of town is not very big, crossing from one end to another is no more than 45-50 min. Except in the noon hours during the summer period, when it can be hot, it is probably best to walk around. There are bicycle stands around the town but be sure to secure your bike well.

See

The city castle of San Marcos

• The area between El Puerto, Jerez and Sanlucar is well known for being Sherry country. The main wineries in El Puerto are Bodegas Osborne (famous for its bull logo that has become a Spanish icon), and Bodegas 501.
• 1 Castillo San Marcos. M-F 10:00-17:00. The city castle was built by Alfonso around 1264 on the foundations of a mosque in the 13th century after the city was recaptured from the Moors. Walls, towers and battlements were renovated in the 20th century. The construction of a permanent exhibition on maritime history in the facility is planned for 2021. (updated Oct 2020)

Main portal of the Iglesia Mayor Prioral in Plaza Espana

• Iglesia Mayor Prioral. The main church was built in the late 15th century in the late Gothic style. Mainly the splendid main facade with the Plateresque decorated Puerta de Sol remains. Large parts of the church collapsed in an earthquake in 1636, and it was only gradually rebuilt. A mixture of different style elements can therefore be admired inside.
• Pescadería Antigua Lonja: In the former fish hall (pescadería) behind the castle are now restaurants, pubs and discos.

Plaza de Toros Bullring

• Plaza de Toros: The bullring of El Puerto is one of the largest and most important of its kind in Spain. Built in the 19th century. The three-story building with a diameter of 99 m can accommodate over 12,000 spectators and also offers a beautiful panoramic view of the city.
• Fuente de las Galeras Reales. The fountain on the river bank was built in 1735 and served to supply the America ships with drinking water. From here the small steamship Adriano III, called "El Vaporcito" or "El Vapor", started its ferry services to the port of Cádiz in 1955, where it sank after an accident on August 30, 2011. This symbol of the city, successor to the Adrianos I and II, was lifted and moved to the docks of San Fernando.
• Casa Fundación Rafael Alberti . In the house where the writer, painter and left-wing politician (1902-1999), one of the city's most famous sons, was born, various exhibits and photographs of his life are on display. They are also an illustration of the Spanish history of the 20th century and especially the Spanish civil war.
• Museo Municipal: The local museum is housed in a city palace from 1753 with an elegant patio. It mainly offers archaeological exhibits and paintings by local artists including Rafel Alberti.
• Conjunto urbano bodeguero Campo de Guía: In this quarter between the Plaza del Toros and the river you will find most of the bodegas (see also "Buy"), almost all of which were settled here between 1820 and 1830 and, in their entirety, are also contemporary witnesses of industrial history. Most of them are located in the area between the bullring and the river, so that the entire quarter is ultimately also a contemporary witness of the beginning industrialization of wine culture in the 19th century. The warehouses from the period are characteristic, if not beautiful, of the quarter. A quarter of the social housing construction of the Franco era is to the south of it.
• Monasterio de la Victoria: The austere and barren-looking monastery complex from the 16th century on the northwestern city limits (across the station forecourt on the right) was used as a prison from 1932-81, during the first 30 years mainly for enemies of the state. It has now been rebuilt and serves as an urban cultural centre. The richly decorated, Gothic portal is particularly worth seeing. The duo exhibition there is open every morning from Monday to Friday in summer and only Friday in winter.

Do

• There are also several beaches to take in the sun or have a swim. La Puntilla is the closest to the downtown area located to the west. Valdelagrana is a bigger more popular beach, especially in the Summer, south across the Guadalete river. Both these beaches are on the Cadiz Bay which means less waves and warmer water. Along the open ocean you can find La Muralla (near the Puerto Sherry marina/development). This is a nice little beach which is somewhat protected from the sometime strong winds (known as Levante). Further along is a series of beaches stretching from the Vistahermosa to Fuentebravia developments.
• Near Valdelagrana there is a nature reserve known as Los Toruños that offers bicycle and kayak rentals, as well guided tours of the area.
• Interested in learning more about sherry? You can visit the Osborne brandy factory, but you have to contact them beforehand.

Festivals

• The Feria de Primavera y Fiesta del Vino Fino in May is all about sherry
• The Festividad Marinera de la Virgen del Carmen. On July 16, the fishermen honour their patron saint, also here with a boat parade on the river.
• The patron saint of El Puerto will be honored on September 8th (and the night before) with the Festividad de la Virgen de los Milagros.

Buy

• In this stronghold of the Andalusian sherry triangle, you can visit one of the bodegas, where guided tours and tastings are offered (sometimes for an entrance fee). A brief explanation of sherries can be found in the article on Jerez.
• In addition to the well-known Bodegas Osborne, Bodegas 501 or Bodegas Gutiérrez Colosia (bottle and cardboard sales during general business hours) welcome visitors.
• Calle Luna: You can go shopping in the pedestrian zones around Calle Luna . In addition to the big fashion chains, there are also old shops in some alleys, the displays of which should actually be protected as cultural and historical sights.
• Mercado de Abastos: Fresh goods from the region on weekdays 09:00-15:00.
• Mercadillo (Flea market and dealers) takes place every Tuesday from 09:00-14:00 on Paseo José Luis Tejada.

Eat

Uncountable gastronomical delicacies in the form of restaurants and the more informal tapas bars (not less delicious or delicate). El Puerto de Santa María is known for good fish restaurants of every category. Of course there are also nice tapas bars, many and good ones on Calle Misericordia.

• Taberna La Gaviota (diagonally across from the ferry terminal). Simple, quaint, everyday Spanish bar. Ideal to bridge waiting times for the boats.
• Casa Flores, Calle Ribera del Río, 9, ☏ +34 956 54 35 12. Fish and meat in a sophisticated atmosphere with appropriate prices. (updated Oct 2020)
• Romerijo, Plaza de la Herrería, 1st floor (next to the parking lot), ☏ +34 956 54 12 54. Still an institution as a fish restaurant, which is spread over 2 buildings. One has fried fish, the other has boiled, fried or fresh fish. Either take a seat in the restaurant or after pulling a waiting number at the huge counter, choose goods and determine how they are prepared (or take them home and cook for yourself). Also very popular with groups and large Spanish families, so it is often heavily frequented. There is now an outlet on the access road. 

Tapas bars

• El Laul.
• El Betis.
• El rincon del Jamon.

Splurge

• El Faro
• Casa Flores
• Los Portales

Drink

This is one of the 3 cities of the sherry wine (together with Jerez and Sanlucar de Barrameda), so make sure you try it in all its possible incarnations: Fino (dry), Oloroso, Dulce, Pale cream. Also try the excellent brandies.

El Puerto offers a distinct nightlife, especially in summer. Flamenco is also offered in some bars. The beach promenade offers many small stalls that are open until late in the summer. You can sit down in restaurants there, as the summer nights in El Puerto are very pleasant and there are also many bars and a German beer garden in the city centre, where you can sit down nicely in an inner courtyard with a beer tent set. The owners are not German, however, they have only oriented themselves to the style.

The disco at Puerto Sherry fills the whole Playa Puntilla with sound, preferably on weekends.

Sleep

El Puerto has lots of hotels in town and around, and has one of one of the best hotel offerings of all the cities in the Cádiz Province. It is a good base place to explore the surroundings and other places in Cádiz Province. With around 25 guesthouses, hostels, hotels, and some holiday apartments, the city has a wide range of accommodation options.

Carnival, Holy Week and the days when the Motorcycle Grand Prix takes place near Jerez (mostly in May) are the reason for high season prices.

Camping

• 1 Camping Playa las Dunas, Paseo Marítimo Playa la Puntilla, ☏ +34 956 87 22 10. 1200 places directly on the city beach. Sandy subsoil. Is kept very clean. Careful entry and exit control and night watchman. Apr-Oct: small shop and pool (more for children); restaurant at the exit. Paid WiFi. No pets in the bungalows. Open Mar-Nov. Reception 08:00-20:00. €35-45. (updated Oct 2020)

Pensions and apartments

• Pensión Loreto, Calle Ganado, 17. Double with bathroom from €36 and weekend discounts, shoulder season from €42; August from €48. (updated Oct 2020)
• 2 Hostal Manolo, ☏ +34 956 857 525. And Hostal Esperanza are directly across from each other on Calle Jesús de los Milagros. (updated Oct 2020)

Mid-range

• 3 Hotel Monasterio San Miguel, 11500 El Puerto de Santa Maria; Virgen de los Milagros 27, ☏ +34 956 540 440. Former monastery in the old town. (updated Oct 2020)
• 4 Bodega Real Hotel, Calle Albareda, 4 (near the train station), ☏ +34 956 05 91 85, reservas@hotelbodegareal.es. (updated Oct 2020)
• 5 Hotel Los Cantaros, Calle Curva, 6 (in the pedestrian area of ​​the old town), ☏ +34 956 54 02 40, reservas@HotellosCantaros.com. Check-in: 10:00, check-out: 14:00. Gym. Great breakfast buffet. (updated Oct 2020)
• 6 Casa Palacio de Los Leones, La Placilla, 2 (in the old town near the Iglesia Mayor), ☏ +34 956 87 52 77, reservas@CasadelosLeones.com. (updated Oct 2020)

Splurge

• 7 Hotel Duques de Medinaceli, Plaza de los Jazmines, 2, Valdegrana, ☏ +34 956 860 777. 28 rooms including 19 suites. In a ducal palace from the 17th century, with a well-tended park-like garden. 2 e-car charging stations (Tesla). 5-star. (updated Oct 2020)
• 8 Hotel Puerto Bahia, Av. de la Paz, 38, ☏ +34 956 562 721. Open: winter break from the end of September to the end of January (updated Oct 2020)
• Hotel Playa Valdelagrana, Av. de la Paz, 4 (from the train stop over the roundabout, 50 m on the right), ☏ +34 956 052 030. (updated Oct 2020)

Go next

• Cádiz: just a short trip across the Cadiz Bay
• Sanlucar de Barrameda: together with El Puerto and Jerez one of the towns of the "Sherry triangle", on the mouth of the Guadalquivir River
• Jerez