Felipe Carrillo Puerto
Felipe Carrillo Puerto is a small traditionally Mayan town near the Mexican Caribbean coast of Quintana Roo. Ever since the development of Cancun in the 1970s, Felipe Carrillo Puerto has grown as a non-tourist city that is home for many of the staff of Mayan Riviera resorts and all of the service industries that support the tourist economy. Felipe Carrillo Puerto is often overlooked by foreign travelers, but it does have its charms and is developing a reputation as an alternative base for budget travelers who want to escape the high prices and bland character of the international cookie cutter resorts.
Understand
editFelipe Carrillo Puerto, often called Puerto among locals, was once the small Mayan village of Chan Santa Cruz. It changed its name in 1930 in honor of Felipe Carrillo Puerto, a popular governor of the state of Yucatan. Do not confuse the town with the municipality of Felipe Carrillo Puerto (even though the town is, by far, the largest in the municipality and is the municipal seat). The town is small, with a population of about 25,000, but the municipality is huge, covering about 1/3 the total area of the state of Quintana Roo. Places that have an address of Felipe Carrillo Puerto might be over an hour from town.
During the Post-Independence period of the late 19th century, the Yucatan Peninsula was the scene of civil unrest as the Maya population rebelled against the rising power of hacienda owners who appropriated traditional Mayan lands and forced Mayans to work for sub-subsistence wages. This period was known as the Caste Wars, and Chan Santa Cruz (as Felipe Carrillo Puerto was then known) rose as the sanctuary of the Mayan rebels. Today, if you hear the town being called "the place of warriors" (or something similar), it's in reference to the town's role in the Yucatan Caste Wars.
Get in
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By plane
editThe new Aeropuerto Internacional Felipe Carrillo Puerto (TQO IATA) (unofficially referred to as Tulum International) is in the municipality of Felipe Carrillo Puerto, though it's a heck of a lot closer to Tulum than to Felipe Carrillo Puerto. The easiest way to get from the airport to Felipe Carrillo Puerto is to rent a car because it's almost 90 km to town (straight shot south on federal highway 307, but still a very expensive ride if you just jump in an airport cab).
There's an ADO bus terminal in the airport, but the buses only serve places where tourists are likely to go, and that's definitely not Felipe Carrillo Puerto. Cheapskates (err, "budget travelers") could take the ADO bus into Tulum and from there take a bus to Felipe Carrillo Puerto.
By bus
editFrom Tulum, Mayab and ADO buses depart every hour for Felipe Carrillo Puerto. As of August 2024, the 1-hour ride will cost M$100 (US$5).
From Chetumal, Mayab and ADO have 9 daily buses to Felipe Carrillo Puerto. The 1-1/2 hour trip costs M$150.
- 1 Terminal de Autobuses (Bus station), Calle 66 #752. Clean, modern bus station with a comfortable waiting area and a small convenience store selling coffee and snacks. Frequent Mayab buses throughout the region.
By train
editThe station in Felipe Carrillo Puerto opened in May 2024. It is a short ride to Tulum or the Cancún International Airport.
By combi
editCombis are shared vans that run continuously along a set route. They are extremely common in the Yucatan peninsula with routes along federal highway 307 along the entire Quintana Roo coast. Felipe Carrillo Puerto is a terminus for two routes: Playa del Carmen - Puerto, and Chetumal - Puerto. The combis to and from Chetumal can be found at their own sitio next to the Zocalo. The combis to and from Playa del Carmen have a sitio on highway 307 between Calle 73 and Calle 75.
Get around
editThe town is very walkable, particularly el Centro. Bikes are a good way to get around town in general and a bike rental shop is located behind Holy Cross Church (Santa Cruz). Taxis are plentiful and affordable. If you want to get to Tulum, Playa del Carmen, or any of the resort areas along the Mayan Riviera you can take a combi and experience local travel the way Mexicans do.
See
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- 1 Parque Principal (Zocalo, Town Square), Calle 67 #768, Centro (one block west of highway MEX-307). The town's main plaza is like zocalos across Mexico. It's a spacious open green space with towering coconut trees, paved walkways, and an adjacent colonial era church. Parque Principal is a bit unusual in the it has a stone aquaduct that may be a replica. Shops and restaurants are on adjacent streets. The bus station is next to the plaza, as are taxi sitios and the sitio for combis to Chetumal (combis to Tulum and Playa del Carmen are at a sitio about 2 blocks away on Hwy. 307).
- 2 Iglesia Santa Cruz (Holy Cross Church), Calle 65. Daily 07:00 - 20:00. The town's oldest church was built during the Yucatan Caste War in the 19th century. It is a symbol of Mayan defiance and independence, though foreign visitors will sometimes dismiss it because it is not fancy nor particularly large. The church is built of stone covered by white stucco and the interior is likewise modest but tranquil and attractive. The church is known for once having been the home of the "Talking Cross", a powerful relic that is now housed in a dedicated sanctuary.
- 3 Santuario de la Cruz Parlante (Sanctuary of the Talking Cross), Calle 60 #788. Daily 07:00 - 18:00. The Talking Cross is a relic of the local Mayan people that was born in the cenote at this site, which is the permananent home of the cross, which frequently travels to other churches throughout the region. When in its home, Mayan elders watch over the cross while it is displayed to the public. Evening masses are conducted at the sanctuary. If you visit the sanctuary, be aware that Mayan tradition is to remove shoes when entering.
Do
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- Síijil Noh Há Magico por Naturaleza (7 km south of town, watch for access road off MEX-307) - jungle area with a natural lagoon and a cenote, kayaks for rent, picnic pavilions, swimming and snorkling, hiking and mountain biking on a network of jungle trails. Outdoor restaurant serving grilled fish and local cuisine.
- Sian Ka'an Biosphere Reserve - from the sky, it looks like the protected natural area is super close to the town, but the nearest access point is an hour or more away by taxi in the village of Chunyaxché
- Muyil is a somewhat small Mayan archaeological site just outside Chunyaxche
Festivals
edit- Festival of the Holy Cross (Fiesta de la Santa Cruz) weeklong celebration of the town's historic relic, April 27-May 3 (May 3 is the main celebration). A procession moves through town with flowers and candles, a mass is held, and a town festival fills the downtown plaza with food, drink, and traditional regional music and dance.
- Fiesta de la Virgen de la Candelaria February 2. Honors the Virgin Mary with a parade in which images of the Virgin are carried through town, after a mass in the main church, a celebration fills the main square with music and dance.
- Festival de la Cultura Maya October. Each year, a conference with workshops discusses aspects of Maya culture. In the town plaza, the festival includes traditional Mayan food and drink, as well as performances of traditional music and dance.
Learn
edit- 1 Na'atik Language and Culture Center, Calle 57 #562, Colonia Francisco May, ☏ +52 983 122 5328. You can learn Spanish in lots of places throughout Latin America, but few schools offer Mayan language programs and let you stay with local Mayan families, immersing yourself in their culture as you go. Na'atik offers Spanish classes and homestay programs with Spanish-speaking families, if that's what you'd like to do, but the Mayan programs are what sets them apart.
Buy
edit- 1 Mercado Benito Juarez, Carr. Cacun - Chetumal #809. Daily 07:00 - 16:00. The town's main public marketplace is typical of those in larger towns with a wide selection of fresh produce and lots of sellers with prepared regional dishes including panuchos, cochinita pibil, sopa de lima and many others.
Eat
editLocal cuisine served in Felipe Carrillo Puerto is usually typical Yucatecan cuisine, which itself is often based on traditional Mayan cooking. Some of dishes to try include Chimole, Relleno negro, Salpicón de venado, Poc-chuc, Cochinita pibil, and Sopa limon. Chimole is a variation on mole made with a spicy black paste called recado negro, it is popular throughout the Yucatan Peninsula and in Belize where it is called black dinner. Salpicón de venado is similar to a cajun jambalaya with deer meat (venison).
- 1 Los Bambus, Calle 50 #828, Leona Vicario, ☏ +52 983 809 8869. Daily 08:00 - 00:00. Fun, casual outdoor palapa style restaurant serving seafood and regional specialties. Buffet breakfast available on Sundays.
- 2 Restaurante el Faisan y Venado, Av. Benito Juarez, Centro, ☏ +52 983 834 0043. Daily 07:00 - 22:00. Excellent restaurant specializing in Yucatecan cuisine (try the papadzules!) but with a smattering of "international" dishes. Large portions, reasonable prices, friendly service.
- 3 Marisquieria Tucanes, Av Constituyentes 69, Centro, ☏ +52 983 700 8043. M-Sa 12:00 - 19:00, closed Su. Bright, cheery small restaurant serving fresh Yucatecan style seafood with standard dishes like shrimp or ceviche but some more unusual things like shark, or shrimp empanadas. Friendly service, large portions, reasonable prices. M$200.
- 4 El Marlin, Av Santiago Pacheco Cruz 615, Javier Rojo Gómez, ☏ +52 983 834 1231. Tu-Su 09:00 - 23:00, closed M. Traditional seafood restaurant serving some unusual Yucatecan dishes like caracol (conch) as well as standard Mexican seafood dishes (ceviche, coctel de camarones, etc.)
Drink
editCoffee
edit- 1 La Esencia, Av Constituyentes esquina con Calle 57, Francisco May, ☏ +52 983 154 1241. W-M 06:00 - 23:30. Small coffee shop serving espresso, cappuccino, iced coffee drinks, sandwiches and light meals. Rooftop dining area.
Sleep
edit- 1 Hotel Turquesa Maya, Calle 56 por Avenida 66, Leona Vicario, ☏ +52 983 834 1218. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Moderate hotel with comfortable, well-furnished rooms with TV and air conditioning. Friendly service. M$700.
- 2 Hotel Esquivel "La Casona", Calle 63 #746E, Centro, ☏ +52 983 834 0344. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Family-run hotel with clean, comfortable rooms with TV, WiFi and air conditioning. Restaurants and markets within easy walking distance. Off-street parking available.
- 3 Hotel Maria Isabel, Av Benito Juárez & Calle 61, Centro, ☏ +52 983 752 8909. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Budget hotel with worn but servicable rooms and furnishings.
- 4 Hotel La Ceiba, Calle 66 #630, Emiliano Zapata, ☏ +52 983 834 0913. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Simple budget hotel with basic rooms that have hot showers and cold air conditioning. Cabins also available. M$500.
- 5 Casa Regina, Calle 68 #812, Centro, ☏ +52 983 107 9955. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Basic budget hotel in the heart of downtown. Rooms are small and frequently have maintenance issues. No guest parking area. M$700.
- 6 Hotel Salome, Av. Benito Juárez #790, Centro. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Moderate budget hotel with clean rooms with TV and air conditioning. Has a swimming pool that is often closed. Gym available. M$800.
Connect
edit5G service has not yet reached Felipe Carrillo Puerto where most cell coverage is 4G in town but drops to 3G (or even 2G) on the roads outside town. Broadband internet is widely available in town and most hotels and restaurants offer WiFi connectivity.
