General Cepeda

Plaza Hidalgo is the main town square in General Cepeda

General Cepeda is a small town in the Northern Mexico state of Coahuila. Travelers with an interest in archaeology and paleontology will like this place because a number of fossils and dinosaur bones were found nearby, leading to the establishment of a local paleontology museum. There are also petroglyphs nearby that are thought to be as much as 10,000 years old (just like my mother-in-law).

Understand

The town was established during Mexico's colonial heyday in 1575. Originally named San Francisco de los Patos, the settlement consisted largely of a hacienda owned by Francisco de Urdiñola. It was renamed General Cepeda in 1892 in honor of former Coahuila state governor and army general, Victoriano Cepeda. Cepeda distinguished himself in battles against the French army during the Second French Incursion. It's a small town of about 4400 residents (2010) with a quiet small-town vibe. The town is designated as one of Mexico's Pueblos Mágicos.

This area of Coahuila is mountainous and fairly dry (though not desert). There's not really a "rainy season" in General Cepeda, but when the town does get rain, it's likely to be in the summer months. The mountains that fill the skyline are referred to as the Sierra de Los Patos (Duck Mountains).

Get in

By car

From Saltillo, it is 65 km to General Cepeda. Use federal highway MEX-40 west of Saltillo for about 40 km, then turn left on Coahuila highway 130 south for another 20 km.

By bus

Second-class buses operated by Transportes José María Morelos make twice daily trips from Saltillo to General Cepeda. Other bus lines go from Saltillo to Puebla, Coahuila where you can take a taxi the rest of the way to General Cepeda.

Get around

The town itself is quite small and compact and you can easily walk around the cobblestone streets of the historic downtown, but there is a lot to see and do outside town, so a car would be useful (though hiring a taxi is probably easier for most travelers). There are several ejidos in the area (communal indigenous lands) where access may be restricted or require an entrance fee.

See

Petroglyphs at Narigua

• 1 Parque Paleontologíca Las Canteras, Rincon Colorado, General Cepeda. Tu-Su 10:00 - 17:00. Paleontological park with walkways around the rocky landscape where myriad dinosaur bones and fossilized footprints have been discovered. There are signs and interpretive exhibits including the always popular tyronosaurus rex, but perhaps more fascinating, some 65 million year old remnants of the enigmatic duck-billed hadrosaurus, which some scientists surmise might have been able to outrun a T-rex. M$15. 

• 2 Narigua, General Cepeda. Archaeological zone with more than 8,000 carved stone drawings (petroglphs) covering some 500 rocks. It's a remote area accessed via a dirt road from town. Although managed by the federal government (INAH), the only facilities are restrooms and a parking lot, there are few signs and no on-site staff, and no admission fees. The hill is rocky so wear sturdy shoes and bring water and sunblock. Free. 

Eat

• 1 Los Portales, Calle Gral. Cepeda 121, Centro, ☏ +52 425 0600. Daily 09:00 - 20:30. Clean, bright, comfortable restaurant serving regional cuisine and selling artesanal food products to go including agave syrup, nut cakes and more. Unusual dishes like a lamb cake and innovative aguas frescas. Family friendly. M$200. (updated Apr 2024)
• 2 Josefina's (intersection of MEX-40 and Coahuila highway 130). Daily 08:00 - 18:00. Tourist-friendly restaurant close to the Rincon Colorado paleontological site. Machacado is good for breakfast, empanadas any time. The house specialty is barbacoa. Clean, inviting dining room. (updated Apr 2024)
• 3 Chacho, Juan Antonio de la Fuente 118, Centro. Daily 10:00 - 23:00. Small, rustic restaurant serving traditional Mexican and regional cuisines with an emphasis on the grilled meats (like arrachera). Locals recommend the enchiladas. M$200. (updated Apr 2024)

Drink

• 1 Hacienda La Florida, Carretera Autopista Saltillo - Torreon (MEX-40D), Km 22, ☏ +52 844 432 2512. Th-Su 12:00 - 18:00, closed M-W. Modern boutique winery offering tours and tastings. Several varietals are grown on-site, mostly red grapes. Varietals include shiraz, cabernet, mouvedre, grenache, and malbec. M$900. 

Sleep

• 1 Hotel Salvador, Calle Gral. Cepeda 405, Centro, ☏ +52 842 425 0297. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Moderate hotel with spacious clean rooms but no air conditioning. (updated Apr 2024)
• 2 Santa Rosa, Mariano Matamoros 169, Centro, ☏ +52 842 425 0200. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. Small, cozy hotel with clean rooms set around a central courtyard. Cable TV and WiFi available. On-site restaurant. M$1000. (updated Apr 2024)

Go next

• Saltillo
• Cumbres de Monterrey National Park