Gozo

View of Gozo

Gozo is an island of the Maltese archipelago in the Mediterranean Sea. Smaller, more remote and less built-up than Malta itself, it is a popular destination in its own right, particularly for more mature British and German couples. With pretty if unspectacular countryside, and interesting churches alongside historic fortifications and megalithic temples it makes a good excursion from Malta and an even better destination for a relaxed short break.

Cities and villages

Cities

• 1 Victoria (also known as Rabat) - the island's capital and only real city

Villages

• 2 Ghajnsielem and Mgar - a sleepy village on the hill above Mgarr port which is mostly residential
• 3 Xaghra - where Ġgantija temples located
• 4 Qala - where another prehistoric dolmen Ġebla l-Wieqfa is located. Other interesting things are Ħondoq Bay and Belvedere, offering a nice view of the main islands of the Maltese archipelago and a small fortress
• 5 Nadur - the largest village in Gozo near Ramla Bay
• 6 Xewkija - featuring an impressive large rotunda church visible from almost all villages and towns in Gozo.
• 7 Għarb and 8 Għasri are 2 small villages in the western part of Gozo among which lies Ta` Pinu basilica, which is a Marian shrine where on 22 June 1883 the Virgin Mary was heard by Karmela Grima calling her for prayer.
• 9 San Lawrenz - where Dwejra (Azure Window) was located, which collapsed in 2017.
• 10 Marsalforn - a popular seaside summer resort north west coast of Gozo and mostly deserted during the rest of the year. The famous salt pans are located here.
• 11 Xlendi - a popular place of entertainment located south west of Gozo. The beach here is small but enclosed between high spectacular cliffs which make Xlendi one of the best spots in Gozo.

Other destinations

• 1 Ramla il-Ħamra is arguably Malta's (Gozo's) finest beach. The name means red sands, referring to the beautiful reddish colour of the sand. The bay is completely spared from development, and thus the beach remains relatively uncrowded. This site also claims to be where Calypso's cave is, the cave referred to in Homer's Odyssey.

Understand

One sometimes gets the sense that Gozo is how Malta could have been. With the exceptions of Marsalforn and Xlendi, it has been largely spared from short-sighted overdevelopment, the traditional way of life and society has survived better, and the land has been maintained better giving more fertile ground. Buildings and houses on Gozo are mainly done with natural materials, as opposed to many of the concrete and breeze-block constructions on the mainland.

History

Gozo's history is intimately linked to Malta. It shares its megalithic culture, and with the Ggantija temples, it is officially home of the oldest structure on the planet. Interestingly, Gozo up until the end of medieval times was inhabited in a manner the same as Malta, with Mġarr and Victoria/Rabat being to Gozo what Vittoriosa and Mdina are to Malta: the main port and the main settlement consisting of a citadel and surrounding suburbs. The inhabitants of Gozo were, in medieval times, required by law to return to the Citadella each evening to spend the night there to prevent corsairs from abducting them. These measures were proven to be necessary when, in 1551, the Turks tried their first invasion of Malta. When they failed, they attacked Gozo and took the entire population off in ships to sell them into slavery.

Talk

Main article: Maltese phrasebook

People on Gozo speak Maltese with a slightly different accent from the main Maltese islanders, and people from the different Gozitan villages each have their own different dialect.

Like the main island, English is also an official language of Gozo.

Get in

There is the ferry from Ċirkewwa on Malta to Mġarr, Gozo's main harbor. It departs every 45 minutes in the summer and almost as often in the winter, with a lower frequency in the evening (and even lower at night). A round trip costs 4,65 € (as of 2016) and takes about 25 minutes. Bus stops are outside the ferry terminals, and buses are somehow synchronized with the ferry arrivals and departures. The bus ride to Victoria takes around 20 minutes. On the Malta side, buses run from Valetta's bus terminus to Ċirkewwa taking about 75 minutes (using line 222).

Get around

By bus

Since 2011, buses are modern, comfortable and all air-conditioned which whilst they lack the charm of the previous fleet provide a significant upgrade in comfort levels. On 1 January 2014 Malta Public Transport Services Ltd took over the bus service in Malta (including Gozo) from Arriva, after their bus system failed in less than three years.

Single ride fare is €2 and you can buy the ticket directly from the driver. It allows you to travel within a two-hour period including changing lines until you reach your destination. Week and combo tickets are available. More information available here.

By taxi

You will find white taxis also on the island of Gozo however these tend to be more expensive. It is suggested to prebook your taxi or airport transfer with a local company.

Note that the taxi drivers may be unscrupulous, and will try to charge the unsuspecting tourist as much as they can. There is an approximate price list posted at the taxi stand at the boat dock, and another at the bus terminal in Victoria. Don't accept a price that is unreasonably higher than the suggested price. If you end up taking more than one or two taxis a day you are better off hiring a car.

By car

If you need flexibility and speed in getting around, your best option is to hire a car. (try TRAC +356 99826339 or Mayjo car rentals). You need to be over 21 years old and hold a valid driving license. It's fine to travel to the mainland Malta Island with a hired car.

By foot

Even on foot many of the distances are negligible and most of the roads are fairly quiet and pleasant to walk along. There is also a footpath network, though the paths require good shoes and a good map (they are not always very clear on the ground).

See

• 1 Ggantija Temples (Bus stop "Ggantija" on line 322 (direct from the ferry terminal)). Thought once to be built by giants is a pair of Neolithic temples dating back to between 3600 B.C. and 3200 B.C. They are considered to be one of the oldest free standing Neolithic structures in the world. Megaliths measuring over 5 meters and over 50 tons comprise the walls of these temples. Ggantija represents an important achievement in early human history. The museum is extremely nicely made, with very good pedagogical skills. €9 (adults), discounts for students and children.. 
• The Azure Window, the Inland Sea and the Blue Hole all make going to the spectacular west coast of Gozo very worthwhile. In contrast to Xlendi and Marsalforn this place has been spared from development and makes an unusual and picturesque place to swim. The beach surrounding the lake is unfortunately made of pebbles but there are a few piers and terraces in front of the fishermen's boathouses one can also use. The Blue Hole is not a true blue hole in the geological sense but still makes an amazing spot to dive, having won awards as one of the most beautiful diving spots of Europe.
• 2 The Azure Window. The Azure Window was a cliff outcropping with a hole in the middle. It collapsed on March 2017. 

Azure Window before its collapse

• 3 Inland Sea. The Inland Sea is a typically Maltese name in that it slightly exaggerates its size (Mdina is referred to as a city with its 400 inhabitants). It's actually a small lake connected to the sea by a tunnel about 100 meters long through the cliffs. 
• 4 Rotunda of Xewkija. The church was built in honor of St. John the Baptist (each village has a saint that they honor) and is the largest in Gozo. A wonderful spot to visit. Lift to the rooftop €3.  

• Among the attractions worth seeing in the citadel is a section of the bastions which consists of a gunpowder Magazine, a lower battery, three silos and some air-shelters. The former three were added in the early 17th century, after the disastrous siege of Gozo by Turkish pirates in 1551. Graffiti on the walls are evidence of the French occupation of Gozo as well. During the English occupation, the grain silos were modified into stores for water. Some air raid shelters were dug by Gozitan families.
• Mġarr ix-Xini tower, one of the coastal towers built by the Knights in Gozo. Entrance to the tower can be arranged upon appointment.
• The last surviving dgħajsa tal-latini – the traditional Gozitan boat that used to ply the ferry route from Malta to Gozo is exhibited at Mġarr Harbour, Gozo’s main harbour.
• Ta' Pinu Basilica, situated in open countryside is an important place of pilgrimage as miracles are claimed to have occurred here. The interior of the Basicila is rich in decoration. One can enjoy views of open countryside from outside the church.

Itineraries

• If you have only one day, spend the morning in the Citadella of Rabat, have lunch there, then spend the afternoon either at Ramla il-Hamra or the Inland Sea.
• With two days spend the second morning visiting the Ggantija temples, have lunch on the beautiful central square of Xaghra, and then swim at the spot you skipped the previous day, bearing in mind that Ramla il-Hamra beach is very close to Xaghra and the Inland Sea closer to Rabat.

Do

Ġgantija on Gozo

• Diving Gozo has some very impressive dive sites, one of the most popular being the Blue Hole. The Gozitan underwater geography is very interesting, and so is the sea life. Dive centres in Gozo vary from garage operations to fully equipped 5-star IDC centres.
• The beaches are usually quiet and idyllic. One of the most beautiful beaches on Gozo is San Blas Beach and is easily accessible by car or bus. Other nice beaches are Mgarr-Ix-Xini and Ramla Beach.
• Outside the busiest areas and outside the high season, hitchhiking is easy here and can lead to unexpected social interactions and changes to one's plans.
• Gozo boasts one of the most remarkable churches on the archipelago, situated at Ta'Pinu, which was visited by Pope John Paul II in 1990. A record of his visit is situated at the rear of the church.

Eat

Gozo is the breadbasket of Malta, as the ground is more fertile, and the place is more rural. Therefore there is more fresh produce to be had. One should definitely try Gozo's own cheese: Gbejniet. This cheese is lovely when had fresh, but also nice when cured with pepper and vinegar.

Drink

As on Malta there are vineyards on Gozo, one can often buy unlabeled local wines cheaply but be sure to ask to taste them as quality can vary widely. The shops near the citadel in Victoria/Rabat usually have a good selection.

Stay safe

Gozo is safer than Malta, there is less petty crime.

There is occasionally a strong current on the northern shore, so caution when swimming is advised.

Respect

The residents of Gozo are called Gozitans and will be annoyed if you refer to them as Maltese.

Walking, Rambling and Hiking

Gozo is at its best from October to May. The average temperature in this period is around 18C, ideal for rambling around the island. While exploring the island you will see a wide variety of amazing views due to a large number of valleys, hills and small beaches. There is an abundance of abandoned hidden ancient temples and shrines in the countryside. If you are pressed for time and do not have much time to explore, but also want to see the best hidden places, it is best to hire or join a guide that specializes in country walks. Although Gozo is small, once you go to the countryside you will feel that you are alone on the island since you can walk for hours without meeting anybody. During the winter storms, Gozo's seaside is often totally deserted but spectacular with the big waves exploding on big boulders and lofty cliffs.