North Sikkim

North Sikkim is a district in the state of Sikkim. Most of North Sikkim is restricted to travellers and permits are needed to visit these areas. The area, which shares a sensitive border with the People's Republic of China is heavily patrolled by the Indian army. However, in view of exquisite scenic beauty, many tourists have started visiting the region overcoming the difficulties.

Youmthang Valley

Towns

• 1 Mangan — the district capital

• 2 Chungthang —

• 3 Dzongu — in North Sikkim, off-beat destination, a region reserved for the Lepcha People

• 4 Kabi —

• 5 Lachen — located in the Chopta Valley

• 6 Lachung — located in the Yumthang Valley is the major tourist destination

• 7 Phodong —

• 8 Singhik —

Other destinations

• 1 Yumthang Valley — a nature sanctuary with river, hot springs, yaks and grazing pasture on rolling meadows

• 2 Lachung Gompa — the region's largest Buddhist shrine, located on the hillside across from Lachung.

• Chopta Valley —

• 3 Gurudongmar Lake — an altitude of 5150 meters. The lake is both sacred and pristine. It has crystal clear waters and the way leading to it is a cold desert. The lake remains completely frozen during the winters, except for a small part which is considered to be touched by Guru Padmasambhava. Visits to the lake are allowed after obtaining a permit from the Government. Foreign nationals are not allowed to go there. The whole area is controlled by the Army, owing to its proximity to China. The air pressure is only 55 % compared to sea level, making altitude sickness a certain outcome for any longer stay without lengthy acclimatization. For day-trip visitors a night halt at Lachen is advised for minimal altitude acclimatization. It is advisable to not to run or speak loudly. Just sit by the lake enjoying its beauty and the surrounding mountains. Tourists are generally asked to leave the place by 1 - 2PM, after which the wind speeds picks up and is enough to carry small stones with it!

• Green Lake trek —

• 4 Phensang Monastery —

• 5 Phodong Monastery — 38 km north of Gangtok on the road to Mangan, about 1 km above the main road. The monastery was built in the 18th cent and was one of the most important monasteries of the Kama Kagyu (black hat) school, before Rumtek monastery was built in 1959.

• Labrang Monastery — 4 km from Phodong Monastery

• 6 Tumlong — 3 km from Phodong, was the capital of Sikkim in the 19th cent.

Talk

English is widely spoken, most of the guides and drivers understand Hindi as well although Nepali is the most widely spoken language.

Get in

Entry to North Sikkim is only possible on a guided tour, and a travel permit must be organised in Gangtok 1-2 days prior to travel. You would need a copy of your photo id card and 2 photos to obtain the permits for North Sikkim.

All travel is by 4-wheel-drive as the roads are subject to frequent landslides. The terrain is very difficult and cold. Make sure that your tour operator is giving you cars in good condition. Mostly Boleros and Scorpios are the safest bet although Sumo Victas also ply. Nevertheless, the journey into the valley is stunning.

Get around

Distances from Gangtok: Chungthang (95 km), Phodong (36 km), Singhik (65 km), Lachen (130 km), Lachung (120 km), Yumthang Valley (140 km), Yumesamdong (155 km), Thangu (160 km), Chopta Valley (163 km)

The road from Mangan goes straight to Chungthang, 95 km from Gangtok, where the road bifurcates. The road to the left goes to Lachen and the road to the right to Lachung. Lachen is the base for tours to Gurudongmar lake and [hopta valle] Lachung for your tours to Yumthang valley.

See

Gurudongmar Lake

• Lachen to Gurudongmar Lake. This is one journey which you will never forget. Journey from Lachen starts early at 05:00. Its mostly dark at that time. As you start climbing, the sun rays hit the snow peaks creating spectacular mountains of gold.

The only halt is at Thangu at 13000 ft where a single restaurant will serve you tea, bread butter (the bread has to be carried by the travellers) and maggi. You get to sit around the earthen furnace. Socks made from Yak wool and rubber boots are available on sale/rent.

The journey ahead is into the land of frozen rivers and chilled waterfalls. After about 16000 ft till Gurudongmar is mostly flat land with mountains on all sides. Its a high altitude desert, hardly any vegetation and very stony and dusty. You have to make your own roads here and its very easy to get lost. Because it is a plateau, it is very cold as chilled winds come down the frozen mountain slopes. Don't exert much as you would be gasping for breath at this altitude.

Gurudongmar lake at 17100 ft is mind blowing. In winters, the entire lake is frozen except one corner which is considered to be very sacred. Army jawans are always there to offer help. One should not miss Gurudongmar Lake in the north Sikkim tour.

• The Yumthang Valley beyond Lachung is the major tourist attraction in the region. The colourful rhododendron bloom (May–June), soaring snow-capped peaks, and herds of wandering yaks makes this an idyllic location. The valley has a thermal spring, although the water can get quite dirty.
• Yumesamdong, Zero point from Yumthang Valley.

Do

Short walks in the Yumthang Valley are highly recommended.

Don't forget to take a walk through the towns in the night. Its dark, a few light bulbs are the only source of light, its creepy but it is something which you cannot find in the cities. All you can hear is the stream of water flowing.

Tours

The region of the Yumthang, Yumesamdong, Gurudongmar and Chopta Valley is the only part of North Sikkim that is accessible for tourists. Since North Sikkim is an area of significant military presence (bordering Tibet), tourists may only visit with a guided tour, who must arrange a travel permit. Most organised tours are for 2-3 nights, costing US$30 per day.

There are many travel agents who organize North Sikkim tours. A typical itinerary would be

Day 1: Travel from Gangtok to Lachen Day 2: Travel to Chopta Valley and Gurudongmar early in the morning and return to Lachen, move to Lachung Day 3: Travel to Yumthang Valley and back to Gangtok.

However, customized trips only to Lachen/Gurudongmar or Lachung/Yumthang Valley is also available.

It takes about 7 hr to travel from Gangtok to Lachen. The journey is very beautiful, don't forget to stop your vehicle in between to take snaps. The series of Buddhist white prayers flying from long poles create spectacular sights.

There are two major towns in North Sikkim except Mangan, the district capital. These are Lachen and Lachung. The road to both these towns are same except for the last 30 km where they bifurcate. At the junction is a small dhaba serving amazing tea, samosas and coconut based sweets. Don't forget to try them out.

Both Lachen and Lachung are sleepy towns with a small local population. Lachung is more developed than Lachen. Hotels with basic facilities have sprung up.

The journey is long and tiring, but the scenic beauty will help you forget all this.

Eat

Simple Nepali, Indian and Tibetan food is offered at most of the guesthouses. The Tibetan momos (dumplings) are a must.

The hotels serve simple yet good food at Lachen. You can try out Wai Wai noodles, a brand of noodles widely available there.

Also, don't forget to try lopchu, a sweet made from milk and sugar.

Drink

Sampling the local millet beer (known as tongba or chang) with the locals is a great way of soaking up the atmosphere in Lachung. The Sikkimese beer "HIT" is popular for its high alcohol content. Basic brands of beers and liquors are available.

Stay safe

Provided you stay away from military zones, there are few safety concerns in the region. Theft is uncommon.

The journey to Gurudongmar takes you into high altitude regions. Many people experience headaches because of lack of oxygen. Don't exert yourself too much and drink lots of water. The roads are steep and winding and nausea is very common.