Huautla

Mazatec women perform a traditional dance

Huautla, formally known as Huautla de Jimenez, is a small town in the Sierra Mazateca mountains of Oaxaca (state) in southern Mexico. The town is home to an indigenous group called the Mazatec whose shaman reportedly indulge in psychoactive mushrooms and morning glory seeds among other mind-expanding fungi and plants. Its good work if you can get it. The town is also a magnet for outdoor enthusiasts, particularly for cave explorations. The town is one of Mexico's designated Pueblos Mágicos.

Understand

Curandera in Huautla

Huautla was thrust into the spotlight of early 1960s counterculture when an article appeared in Life magazine about the "magic mushrooms" of the Mazatec people of Oaxaca, particularly a curandera named Maria Sabina in Huautla. Timothy Leary, John Lennon, and Bob Dylan were among the earliest pilgrims to visit the town in order to experience the kind of hallucinations described in the article.

The people of Huautla did not appreciate the publicity and they chafed at their budding fame over ancient practices that they preferred to keep to themselves. Maria Sabinas was ostracized by the community and arsonists burned her home.

While travelers can still find locals who will sell them psychoactive mushrooms, they are unlikely to find a shaman willing to perform the ceremonies that would guide them to enlightenment. Nobody wants to invite the kind of misfortune that met Maria Sabinas after she welcomed the foreigners.

Get in

The two closest airports to Huautla are Oaxaca (OAX ^IATA) or Puebla (PBC ^IATA). Both airports are about 3-1/2 hours by car.

By car

The fastest way to Huautla is to drive or take a taxi. There is a scenic road that is in generally good condition all the way from Tehuacan. The 75 mile trip will take about 2 hours. From Tehuacan, drive south on Puebla state highway 980 (tollroad) to Teotitlan, then turn east on federal highway MEX-182 (Carr. Huautla - Teotitlan Flores Magon). This road is very scenic and mountainous with many sharp curves.

By bus

Autobuses Unidos (AU) operates one bus per day from the city of Tehuacán. The bus makes a couple stops en route and the 75 mile trip takes 4 hours and 45 minutes. Tickets start at M$150.

• 1 Terminal Autobuses AU - Huatla (bus station), Jimenez, ☏ +52 236 378 0834. Small bus station serving AU. Although the web site and app show only a single daily bus from Tehuacan, there are usually 4 on weekdays, 5 on Saturday, and 6 on Sunday (subject to change, check schedule boards inside the station), plus direct second-class buses to Mexico City's TAPO bus terminal. Ticket sales in the bus station are cash only. (updated Feb 2024)

See

• 1 Casa de Maria Sabina, Maria Sabina, ☏ +52 627 142 8808. Small museum operated by Maria Sabina's (arguably the most famous shaman in Mexico) family to keep her spirit alive. The house is decorated with colorful murals of mushrooms. Healing ceremonies available, medicinal amulets available, camping and rooms for rent. Free (donation requested). (updated Feb 2024)
• Cerro de la Adoracion. Revered mountaintop where locals come to leave offerings and commune with the spirits. Naturalists will find a good hiking trail with lots of opportunities for birdwatching and lots of panoramic vistas of the town and valleys below. (updated Feb 2024)

Do

Rappelling in the Sistema Huautla

• Caving opportunities abound near Huautla, whose local cave system (called the Sistema Huautla) is reputedly the deepest in the western hemisphere and one of the 10 largest cave systems on earth. The cave system is almost a mile deep and has more than 100 km of mapped passageways. The system includes several local caves including: ’’Gruta Nindo Da-Ge’’, ’’Sistema Cheve’’ and ’’Sótano de San Agustín’’. The cave system has more than 20 identified entrances.

Eat

• 1 Ostok Caffe, Antonio Caso 7, ☏ +52 236 124 9599. Daily 08:00 - 21:30. Hip, modern coffee shop serving light meals like waffels in the morning and burgers in the afternoon. Good WiFi and outstanding views. M$100. (updated Feb 2024)
• 2 Marisqueria la Nave del Olvido, Tercera Priv. de 16 de Septiembre 3, ☏ +52 236 378 0170. Daily 11:00 - 20:00. Traditional Mexican seafood restaurant. Locals recommend the caldo de mariscos and the mojarra. M$200. (updated Feb 2024)

Sleep

• 1 Hotel Santa Julia, Cuahtemoc 12, Centro, ☏ +52 236 378 0586. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Basic hotel with dated furnishings, but cheap and close to downtown. On-site restaurant specializing in seafood. M$600. (updated Feb 2024)
• 2 Hotel el Rinconcito, Juarez 8, Centro, ☏ +52 236 378 0136. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Traditional hotel in the town center, clean comfortable rooms. Off-street parking in a small lot. (updated Feb 2024)

Go next

• Tehuacán
• Oaxaca
• Puebla (state)