Ishkashim (Tajikistan)

Ishkashim or Ishkoshim is in Pamirs.

Understand

Ishkahsim is a bigger village on the Pamir Highway between Khorog and Langar.

Do

• Climb the mountain behind the village: For sunset and great views into the valley and towards Afghanistan. Children play soccer on the plateau. Directions: Walk towards the end of the village (direction Murgab), take a left before the bridge and follow the path.

• Walk on the street: The road is paved and there are few cars. Join the locals on the street.

Eat

• Қаҳвахонаи Сарез (first building on the left if you come from Khorog, almost opposite of Hanis Guesthouse.). Restaurant with some tables inside. Offers fare that is available on that day, usually potato soup, Lagman noodles etc. Beer served. Come early as it might close early. (updated Nov 2019)

Sleep

• Hanis Guesthouse. The most popular guesthouse, slightly aged. (updated Nov 2019)

Go next

• Afghanistan's Sultan Eshkashim or Wakhan Corridor. The Ishkashim border post is a little west of town. According to border guards and the consulate in Khorog, in summer, many tourists seem to cross the border, even only for a couple of hours.

First, you will need an Afghan visa (available in Khorog). Second, you will need a Tajik double entry visa or a second single entry eVisa. Border guards on both side will check this multiple times. On the Afghan side, you can either walk to Sultan Eshkashim (5 km), pre-arrange a taxi or guide (recommended, from US$70), or ask the border guards to get you a taxi/some sort of transport.

Crossing the border is straightforward:

• Go/drive to the gate. A Tajik border guard will come from the military post across the street and guide you to the passport control booth (and probably boot his computer for you). After stamping you out of Tajikistan, he will bring you to the border, call Afghan border guards an unlock the gate.
• The Afghan border guards will guide you to the passport control booth and stamp you into Afghanistan.

Important:

• Many countries warn against going to Afghanistan. Do not go if the security situation is in question.
• Ask locally about the security situation.
• Have a valid visa for Tajikistan, otherwise you cannot come back.