Istanbul's New City

Istanbul's New City is a modern district north of Taksim Square. Its neighbourhoods of Elmadağ, Nişantaşı, Kurtuluş and Şişli were built up in the early 20th century, then more recently appeared the business district between Mecidiyeköy and Levent-Maslak. While in the 2020s steel-and-glass skyscrapers are everywhere in Istanbul perhaps except a few deeply historic zones, this is the only area where they form a distinctive skyline rather than a jumble of irregularly spaced high-rises shooting up into the air with much lower buildings inbetween. The district's main thoroughfare is Cumhuriyet Caddesi between Taksim Square and Mecidiyeköy (passing through or near Nişantaşı and Şişli) and its extension Büyükdere Caddesi, which runs through Levent and Maslak and eventually reaches Sarıyer on the Bosphorus bank to the north.

Get in

• The quickest way to reach the New City is by Metro line M2 which runs beneath Cumhuriyet Caddesi from Taksim to Maslak, with stations every couple of kilometres.
• Metro line M11 runs from Istanbul airport to Gayrettepe passing through the district with a stop at Kagıthane.
• Buses from other parts of the city run to Mecidiyeköy. The Metrobüs, a bus rapid transit system plying along its own lane between the western suburbs and the Asian Side also passes through the district, calling at Mecidiyeköy and Zincirlikuyu stations (close to those metro stations).
• Dolmuşes ply between Beşiktaş and Nişantaşı.

See

• 1 Atatürk Museum (Atatürk Müzesi), Halaskargazi Cd 250, Şişli ( Osmanbey 300 m; on the main avenue of Şişli), ☏ +90 212 240-63-19. M-W F Sa 09:00-16:00. A historic 3-storey house, easily distinguishable among the modern apartment buildings thanks to its brightly coloured and gracefully decorated exterior. This is where the future founder of the Turkish Republic, Kemal Atatürk rented in 1919 while staying in Istanbul before setting sail to Samsun on the Black Sea coast to start the Turkish War of Independence. Hosts Atatürk-related paraphernalia and photos. Free.  
• 2 Military Museum (Askeri Müze), Cumhuriyet Cd, Harbiye ( Osmanbey 600 m), ☏ +90 212 233-27-20, fax: +90 212 296-86-18. W-Su 09:00-17:00. Among the exhibition of this museum are five thousand pieces from the Ottoman era through WWII, with the most prominent piece possibly being the huge chain that the Byzantines stretched across the mouth of the Golden Horn to keep out the Sultan's navy in 1453 during the siege of Constantinople. In the yard of the museum, the Janissary Band (Mehter Takımı), the world’s oldest military band gives concerts of march music in traditional uniforms each afternoon, at 15:00.  
• 3 Nişantaşı ( Osmanbey 500 m). A neighbourhood east of Şişli known for its Art Nouveau apartment buildings, the ground floors of many of which are upmarket restaurants, cafes, pubs, and garment stores lining the sidewalks. Nobel laureate Orhan Pamuk, well-known Turkish novelist, is a lifelong resident of the neighbourhood which formed the background of several of his novels.  
• 4 Radio Building (Radyoevi), Cumhuriyet Cd, Harbiye ( Taksim 700 m; close to the Military Museum). This building dating back to 1945 houses the local radio branch of the state radio and television corporation of Turkey (TRT). Not exactly an architectural pearl (although fans of the 1940s' totalitarian architecture will likely find its stately façade interesting), but it is prominent for the part it played in the political history of Turkey: It was occupied three times by the Army, in 1960, 1971, and most recently in 1980, when the radio was decidedly the broadcast type ranging most wide and far, to announce that they had launched a coup and taken over the governance of the country.  
• 5 Maçka Park (Maçka Parkı) ( Taksim 1.1 km, over the park; between Dolmabahçe Palace and the high-rise of Ritz Carlton). This park occupies the sides of a valley of this "city of seven hills", with an avenue in the bottom. A 4-person gondola lift line is strung over it, offering a shortcut when walking between Beşiktaş and Taksim Square as well as nice views of the Bosphorus (access to the northern station from Maçka Cd and Eytam Cd, every 5 minutes 08:00-20:00, 1.50 TL pp one-way). There is also a wooden bridge over the bisecting avenue if you prefer to take a stroll through the park. Free.  

Architecture

Levent at night

Probably no one in their right mind would visit Istanbul for the sole purpose of viewing high-rises, but if for some reason you need a change from the ancient to 19th-century architecture that dominates the most visited parts of the city, jump on the metro for Istanbul's skyscraper district clustered around Levent and Maslak. The heavy focus of the AKP government on construction projects means the building heights increasingly go upwards: as of 2022, the tallest in this area is 2019-built Skyland Istanbul at 284 m, in Seyrantepe west of Maslak (although the tallest building in Istanbul and all of Turkey, 301-m Metropol Istanbul, is in Ataşehir, a smaller business district on the Asian Side of the city), and many others are among the tallest anywhere between Moscow and Dubai, or even in the entirety of Europe. Much of the area is criss-crossed by motorways and motorway-like avenues so may not be very suitable for walking tours, and the most appreciable skyline views are from some distance away, e.g., across the Bosphorus.

On the other hand, the earlier developed southern sections of the district around Harbiye, Elmadağ, Osmanbey, Nişantaşı, Kurtuluş, and Şişli feature large numbers of neo-classical and Art Nouveau buildings from the turn of the 20th century, in a great contrast to the business district in the north.

Do

• Attend the Tataula Carnival (Baklahorani). Shrove Monday every year. Despite a 1943 ban on this Greek Orthodox pre-Lent carnival by the Turkish authorities, it has been revived since 2010. The tradition began in the 19th century or earlier, and even though the event was led by local Greeks, the celebrations were open to everyone. It's also a nice opportunity to look into Turkey's multicultural past. Takes place in the Kurtuluş (previously named Tataula) neighborhood. 

Buy

This part of the city is characterized by having a modern shopping mall every few kilometers along the metro line. Here is a list of them:

• City's Nişantaşı, about a 10-minute walk (250 m) from Osmanbey Metro statıon.
• 1 Cevahir. Daily 10:00-22:00. The newest one of malls in Istanbul. At Şişli. Metro: Şişli-Mecidiyeköy. Also accessible from Mecidiyeköy Metrobus Station.  
• 2 Profilo. Located a bit away from main street (about 10 min walk) at Mecidiyeköy. Metro: Şişli-Mecidiyeköy. Also accessible from Mecidiyeköy Metrobus Station.  

Skyline of Levent, the main business district of the city, as seen from the Asian Side across the Bosphorus

• 3 Metrocity. Levent metro station has a direct exit to the mall.  
• 4 Kanyon. one of the most exclusive shopping malls in Istanbul with sophisticated, modernistic architecture, has a conncection to Levent subway station and to Metrocity by an underground passage. (updated Sep 2017)

Additıonally, Nişantaşı, downhill from Osmanbey metro station, is quite literally full of upscale boutique shopping options (e.g.: Gucci, Prada, Armani).

Bazaars

• 5 Beşiktaş Market. Saturdays. This is where locals go shopping. If you are keen to buy fruits, vegetables, walnuts or olives at local prices, this is where you should head. It is always a good idea to bring rome walnuts (30 TL/kg) or olives (16-40 TL/kg) back home. Otherwise it is just nice to visit and soak in the atmosphere. This is an authentic market not to be missed. (updated Nov 2019)

Eat

Mid-range

• Sultana's Dinner and 1001 Nights Show. In Elmadag, near Taksim, has traditional Turkish cuisine (meze, kebabs, desserts) with a show every evening of belly dancing, Turkish folklore and live music. 
• Set Kebap at Nispetiye Cad. No:13 in Levent. Has a wonderful meze table and delicious Adana Kebab. The staff speaks very little English but are most anxious to be helpful.
• Kosebasi Kebap. This Zagat-rated kebab joint serves traditional Turkish kebabs in modern/ upscale atmosphere. Levent is the main branch but they have 7 more locations (including 3 express versions) in Istanbul. 
• Sosa. At Akmerkez Mall, Etiler. tel - +90 212 282 01 51. Fairly priced salads and wraps among others.
• 1 Kristal Ocakbaşı, Eşref Efendi Sokak 14 (At the southern entrance to Osmanbey Metro), ☏ +90 2122243969. Classic Turkish steak-house. (updated Apr 2017)

Drink

• Reassürans Pasajı in Nişantaşı houses many bars and cafés and is a good place for bar hopping on a Saturday night.
• Taps. A bar, restaurant and brewery in one. The crowd is the general Nişantaşı crowd, it also attracts a lot of expatriates. 

Adult entertainment

• The city's most reputable strip club, or gentleman's club, is Regina Revue, in Elmadag, near Taksim. It's not a sleazy place and has been running for nearly 30 years. Rather than a standard strip club with just a pole on the stage, Regina has many different decors and performances to music, with the girls acting out different scenarios on stage.

Sleep

At its south end this district shades into Taksim / Galata, where there's more choice.

Mid-range

• Istanbul Suites, Ergenekon Mh, Harbiye Çayırı Sk 111, Şişli, ☏ +90 212 224 53 10. Ranging from duplex to studio apartments which are all furnished with modern appliances. It's located in the city center and is within a 5 minute walking distance to Taksim. Possibility for short and long term rentals. B&B doubles from €50. (updated Jul 2018)
• Gallery Residence Hotel, Vali Konağı Cd, Süleyman Nazik Sk 10, Nişantaşı, ☏ +90 212 291-77-10, fax: +90 212 224-40-13, info@galleryresidence.com. Suites with fully equipped kitchens, DVD players, and fax machines. Free wi-fi, breakfast, sauna, jacuzzi, and fitness. Doubles €80. (updated Jul 2018)
• 1 Jazz Hotel, Bahtiyar Sk 1, Nişantaşı, ☏ +90 212 296-30-02, fax: +90 212 296-30-09, jazz@jazzhotel.com.tr. 3-star jazz-themed hotel with 12 rooms named after famous jazz artists. Free wi-fi and breakfast. B&B doubles from €70. (updated Jul 2018)
• 2 Arts Hotel (south of Osmanbey station), ☏ +90 212 225 91 00. Check-out: 12:30. Modern and elegant hotel. B&B doubles from €90. (updated Jul 2018)

Splurge

• 3 Grand Hyatt Istanbul (formerly Hyatt Regency), Taşkışla Cd, Taksim (near Taksim Square), ☏ +90 212 368 1234, fax: +90 212 368 1000, burcu.cakir@hyattintl.com. 5-star with 360 rooms and suites overlooking the city and the Bosphorus. Hotel has formal dining, outdoor pool, Turkish bath, fitness center and business center. B&B doubles from €170. (updated Jul 2018)
• 4 Hilton Istanbul Bosphorus, Cumhuriyet Cd 50, Harbiye, ☏ +90 212 315 6000, fax: +90 212 240 4165, info.istanbul@hilton.com. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. Family-friendly hotel offers a business center, child-friendly restaurants, fitness facilities with massage parlour, pool and Turkish baths. Rooms have private balconies with views of the Bosphorus and high speed internet access. Opened to service in 1955, this has the distinction of being the oldest Hilton outside the US. B&B double from €120. (updated Jul 2018)
• 5 Park Hyatt Istanbul - Maçka Palas, Teşvikiye, Bronz Sk 4, Şişli, ☏ +90 212 315 1234, fax: +90 212 315 1235, istanbul.park@hyatt.com. 5-star hotel in the residential and shopping district of Nisantasi. Rooms combine Art Deco style and historic Turkish decor with modern amenities: wireless internet access, DVD player and iPod docking station. The hotel is also home to a spa, swimming pool and restaurants. B&B doubles from €230. (updated Jul 2018)
• 6 Ritz-Carlton, Süzer Plaza, Askerocağı Cd 15, Elmadağ, ☏ +90 212 334 44 44, fax: +90 212 334 44 55. Standing tall near the Bosphorus, this 5-star hotel overlooks the Bosphorus and Dolmabahce Palace. B&B doubles from €220. (updated Jul 2018)