Iztacchuatl-Popocateptl National Park

Iztaccíhuatl–Popocatépetl National Park is a Mexico national park in Central Mexico, bordering the states of Estado de Mexico, Puebla, and Morelos. The park's most famous landmarks are the twin volcanoes Popocatepetl and Iztaccihuatl --- known locally as Izta-Popo. The park also includes the Hacienda de Zoquiapan and additional annexes. The total area of the park is 39,819 hectares (98,395 acres).

View of Popocatepetl from the slopes of Iztaccihuatl

Understand

History

The Iztacchuatl-Popocateptl National Park as a protected natural area began in 1935, but it has figured into local history and culture for millenia.

The Aztecs and neighboring indigenous cultures viewed the twin volcanoes with a sense of wonder and incorporated them into their mythology. Legend has it that the mountains represent two lovers who fate frowned upon, frustrating their efforts to unite in life. Popocatepetl was a fierce warrior who longed for the white princess, Iztaccihuatl. Her father refused to allow their marriage, keeping the two apart. Though their love for each other was frustrated in life, the gods transformed the pair into mountains that would forever lie side by side.

During the Spanish conquest in the early 16th century, Hernan Cortes led his conquistadors through the pass between the two mountains as he invaded Tenochtitlan. The Spanish would later use the volcanoes as a source of sulfur to make gunpowder.

Throughout the 16th century, Augustinian and Franciscan friars built monasteries on the slopes of Popocateptl. These monasteries are among the oldest in the Americas and are recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site.

Landscape

Iztacchuatl, as seen from Amecama

Flora and fauna

Plant life in the park depends on elevation. Most of the park resembles areas of plains with light grasses dominating the flora, however, the lower extent of the mountains is predominantly pine forest with small forbs and smaller conifers, such as junipers. The uppermost sections of the mountains are barren rock with little or no vegetation and permanent snow and ice covering at the peaks.

A wide range of animal life can be seen in the park. Izta-Popo is a particularly rewarding destination for bird watchers. More than 150 species of birds can be found in the park, with most of those being year-round residents. The largest and most impressive are the birds of prey. Red-tailed hawks and peregrine falcons can often be seen soaring above the forests and circling as they ride thermal air currents. As you walk through the forested trails ascending the mountains, a variety of partridges, sparrows, wrens, and thrushes can be more often heard than seen.

Most of the mammals are smaller species that are fairly common throughout the Americas. These include foxes, racoons, skunks, rabbits, and squirrels. At the top of the local food chain are bobcats and coyotes. There are three mammal species in the park that are relatively rare and worth keeping a lookout for. These are the volcano rabbit, known locally as zacatuche (which lives at the higher elevations of the forest, near the edge of the barren rocky zone), the Orizaba long-tailed shrew, and the Phillips kangaroo rat.

Reptiles and amphibians are found throughout the park. Pit vipers like the dusky rattlesnake are almost as common as garter snakes, so do be careful where you step and be careful picking up or moving rocks. Eastern spiny lizards have been spotted near Izta as have ridged tree frogs. Several species of salamanders live in the streams burbling down the mountain slopes.

Climate

Although Central Mexico is generally temperate with hot, dry summers, these conditions are not necessarily typical of conditions within the park where temperature and humidity vary considerably by elevation. Be aware that the upper sections of both volcanoes are permanently covered in snow and ice and even on the hottest summer day, cold temperatures and biting wind should be expected near the summits. Fog is very common as you ascend the mountain and you may wish you'd brought a raincoat on even the driest day in the valley.

Get in

From Mexico City, take Metro to the San Lazaro station (which connects to the TAPO bus station), find the Volcanes bus line and take a bus to Amecameca. Buses to Amecameca leave about every 15 minutes during the day. From there, you can take a taxi into the national park.

Fees and permits

Park admission is M$50 per person (November 2022) and is collected at the Paso Cortes visitor center when you enter the park. (You can also hire a local guide at the visitor center, at a fee that you negotiate. Camping fees are also paid at the visitor center.

The Paso Cortes visitor center offers scenic overlooks, modern restrooms, bottled water for sale, and park staff who can provide maps and advice about visiting the park.

Get around

Hiking is the best way to explore the park. Trails are generally well marked, though a local guide can make the trip much easier and more enjoyable.

You can drive through the park, though the roads are sometimes dirt or loose gravel, especially on the Puebla side of the park, though asphalt paving and good signage is typical of the park roads on the Mexico City side of the park.

Bicycling could be a great way to see the park and its major sites.

An excellent biking itinerary is to follow the route between 16th century monasteries. It's a long, grueling route and only a short distance of the route passes through the National Park itself, with most of the route following roads through Puebla and Morelos states, ending in Cuernavaca. This is referred to as the Ruta de los Conventos del Popocatépetl.

See

Cerro Tlaloc

Also known as Mount Tlaloc among English-speaking tourists and Tlalocatépetl among Nahuatl-speaking indigenas, the 4,158 meter high dormant volcano lies entirely within the Parque Nacional Iztacchuatl-Popocatepetl. The mountain was an important ceremonial site among the Aztecs and the summit is the site of archaeological ruins that pre-date the Aztecs by at least 1,000 years. The ruins have been damaged by human visitors but are still a fascinating reminder of the indigenous cultures that dominated Mexico for thousands of years before the arrival of Spanish colonists.

The most commonly used trail to the summit begins in the town of Río Frío de Juárez, which is easily accessed via federal highway MEX-158. The trail will take a full day to hike up and back, but it's a wide, well-used trail that is easy to follow until you get near the peak, when it becomes rocky and will require a bit of climbing skill for the last few hundred meters.

Hikers who want a more strenuous, demanding trail can start their hike in the town of San Pablo Ixayoc.

Cerro Tlaloc is a fascinating place to students of indigenous cultures because the Aztec performed some rituals here that repulse the minds of modern visitors. The most notorious ritual, called Atlachualo, involved sacrificing young children to the God Tlaloc. Children were dressed up and encouraged to cry as their heads were chopped off. A less bloodthirsty spectacle might have been their celebration of Huey Tozoztli, which was supposedly held on the hottest day of the year (though how they knew that the next day wouldn't be even hotter is a question that tour guides hate having visitors ask).

Do

• Hike: There are a lot of hiking trails within the park. Maps available at the park visitor center at Paso de Cortes show some of the better marked routes. Hiking web sites like alltrails show several more (though you shouldn't rely on having cell signal throughout the park). Several trails start at Paso de Cortes, which is a good starting point for casual day hikes. Trails leading up to the top of Iztaccihuatl start at La Joya. Parking is available at La Joya and hikers frequently drive there, park, and hike up the mountain. (You can also hike between La Joya and Paso Cortes --- it's about 5 miles.)

• Backpacking: Overnight backpacking trips vary in difficulty. Hiring a local guide is recommended. Contact Experturismo for information about overnight trips to the top of Iztaccihuatl.

• Mountain Biking: Various mountain bike excursions are available. Contact 3Summits Adventure for information about 1-day or 2-day bike trips (rental bikes are available).

Drink

Keep yourself hydrated and bring all the water you plan to drink. Bottled water is sold at the Paso Cortes visitor center, but it will be cheaper and you can more efficiently pack it if you buy it in Mexico City before venturing into the park. Potable water is generally unavailable in the backcountry. If you have a Lifestraw or similar filtration device, you will likely find streams you can drink from (but only if you have a suitable filter).

Sleep

Lodging

There are several small hotels in the nearby town of Amecameca (and south along MEX 115). This is the best bet for hikers who want to ensure an early morning start but who do not plan to camp on the mountain.

Camping

Camping is allowed at three areas in the park:

• Paso de Cortes
• La Joya
• Llano Grande

A permit is required to camp and can be purchased at the Paso de Cortes visitor center. All three areas are rustic with minimal facilities. Potable water is not provided nor do camping areas have toilet facilities. Practice Leave No Trace principles and pack out everything you pack in.

If you are hiking to the top of Iztaccihuatl, you will find a few overnight shelters, but space is limited and you should definitely not rely on finding space there.

Go next

• Cofre de Perote National Park
• Puebla
• Mexico City