Jakar

Jakar in Central Bhutan is known as a bastion of Vajrayana Buddhism, especially the Nyingma tradition, and there are many monasteries and sacred sites here. Spacious and surrounded by tree-covered mountains, Jakar is nestled in the Choekor Valley, which is considered to be one of the most beautiful in all Bhutan, and it is commonly referred to as "Little Switzerland". The article also includes information on two nearby villages, Chumey and Tang.

Understand

Jakar

Jakar is the principal administrative town of Bumthang district, and sits at an altitude of 2,800 m (9,200 ft). The cluster of villages below the dzong, which are collectively known as Jakar Town, have a population of around 6,200 (2017).

History

Buddhism: Jakar was the first place in Bhutan that Guru Rinpoche visited, and as the ruler of the region and his subjects subsequently converted to Buddhism, Jakar is accorded the title of the birthplace of Buddhism in Bhutan. In addition, one of the most venerated and accomplished teachers of the Vajrayana school of Buddhism, Pema Lingpa, was born in the Jakar area and later established Tamshing Monastery in the town as his main seat.

Jakar Dzong: When a group of lamas visited the area searching for a suitable site for a new dzong, a single white bird was observed continuously circling overhead before settling on the top of a hillock. This was considered a good omen, and in 1667 a dzong was constructed on the site, which was subsequently named White Bird (jakar).

Wangchuck Dynasty: Ugyen Wangchuck, the first king of Bhutan, was born in Wangduecholing Palace in Jakar, and after his succession to the throne in 1907, he set up the national government in the town, thereby establishing Jakar as the first capital of the Wangchuck dynasty.

Climate

In the winter temperatures often drop below freezing, and coupled with strong winds Jakar becomes a very cold place in the winter. The best time to visit the area is from late May until the end of September.

Get in

By plane

• Druk Air operates flights from Paro to Jakar (Bathpalathang Airport) every Tu, Th, and Sa. The flight takes around 30 minutes. As the flights are sometimes cancelled or postponed due to changing weather conditions, it is advisable to check flight updates before leaving for the airport.

By bus

• Coaster buses depart Thimphu Bus Station daily at 07:00 and 08:00. It is a 9- to 10-hour journey from the capital, and a one-way ticket costs around Nu700. The buses make a stop for lunch.

Get around

• As the tourist and pilgrimage sites are scattered throughout the area, a vehicle is essential to get around. Taxis can be hired from the main bazaar.

See

Landmarks

Jakar Dzong

• 1 Jakar Dzong. The fortress was constructed in 1667, but rebuilt after being severely damaged in an earthquake in 1897. It is one of the largest and most impressive dzongs in Bhutan and houses the administrative and monastic offices for the Bumthang district. 
• Wangduecholing Palace. Built in 1857, the palace served as the principal residence of the first and second kings of Bhutan. Using traditional displays and modern interactive features, the former palace offers insights into the lives of the first and second king of Bhutan and the court that served them. Daily: 10AM–05:30PM. Entry: Nu550.

Sacred sites

Monasteries are referred to by their Dzongkha title of lhakhang or gompa.

Kurje Lhakhang

• Chakhar Lhakhang (Iron Castle). This small and unassuming temple marks the site of the palace of Sindhu Raja, the Indian monarch who first invited Guru Rimpoche to Bhutan. The original palace was said to be made of iron and nine stories in height. The current building was constructed by Dorji Lingpa in the 14th century.
• 2 Kurje Lhakhang (also Kurjey). One of Bhutan's most sacred monasteries. A body print of Guru Rinpoche is preserved in a cave around which the oldest of the three buildings is built. The original building was constructed in 1652 by Trongsa Penlop, while the latest addition was added by the late Queen Mother Ashi Kesang Wangchuck in 1990. A huge cypress tree (or perhaps a decedent tree) that over hangs the building is said to have grown from Guru Rinpoche's walking stick.  
• Jambey Lhakhang. One of the 108 monasteries that were miraculously constructed by King Songten Gampo in one night. The monastery is located between Kurjey Lhakang and Jakar Dzong.
• Lhodrak Kharchhu Lhakhang This monastery above the town is a more recent addition to the pantheon of monasteries in Jakar. The abbot, Namkhai Nyingpo Rinpoche, is a very highly respected teacher in Bhutan and speaks some English.
• Tamshing Lhakhang. A monastery established in 1501 by the esteemed Buddhist treasure-reveller Pema Lingpa. The two story building contains frescoes, and has a very low ceiling (apparently Pema Lingpa was very short!) In addition, there is 500-year-old suit of metal chain made by Pema Lingpa located on the first floor. It is considered auspicious to circumambulate the temple three times with the chain draped over the back and shoulders.
• Zangtopelri Lhakhang. Consecrated in 2008, this latest addition to the sacred sites in the area houses a two-story high mandala representing Guru Rinpoche's Copper Colored Mountain. Zangtopelri is a short walk from Kuje Lhakhang.

For information on customs and symbols in Buddhism, see: Buddhism

Chumey

• Tharpaling Gompa. Founded by the dzogchen master Longchen Rabjam in 1352, the monastery was also home to the famous Nyingma guru Jigme Lingpa in the 18th century. It is located at 3,600 m, and is home to around 150 monks. It can be reached by a partly paved road.
• Weaving. Most weaving houses display their wares outdoors, and visitors are welcome to watch the process. Woolen garments and bags can be purchased on site.

Tang

• Kunzang Drak. The retreat center of Pema Lingpa. Roughly an hour hike from the main road running through the Tang Valley.

• 3 Mebartsho (Burning Lake). The place where the 15th century Bhutanese spiritual-treasure discoverer Pema Lingpa famously dived into a river gully with a burning lamp, and later returned with a number of hidden scriptural treasures (Tib:terma) and with the lamp still burning - hence the name of the site, Membartsho - Burning Lake.  
• Ugyen Choling Palace, Ugyen Choling Village, ☏ +975 17641464, kunzangcr@gmail.com. The original building was constructed in the 16th century, but was partly rebuilt after being damaged in the 1897 earthquake. The palace also has associations with the great Buddhist saint Lonchen Rabjam. Today, the building serves as a museum, preserving the rich religious and cultural history of Tang and Bumthang. (updated Nov 2024)

Do

• Tour the stunning country-side
• Visit sacred sites

Festivals

As an area famed for its monasteries and sacred sites, Jakar plays host to several tshechu (religious) festivals throughout the year. The highlight of a tshechu is the masked dances conducted by monks, which were developed according to precise instructions given by past Buddhist masters. According to Buddhist philosophy, all experiences leave an imprint in the mind stream that produces a corresponding result in the future, and so viewing dances, such as these, that are imbued with sacred symbolism is considered to be a very auspicious and sanctifying experience. While the event is not held in a solemn atmosphere and there is much merriment, visitors are reminded that it is still a religious festival that holds great significance in the lives of Bhutanese people, and so appropriate behavior is expected.

• Domkhar Tshechu (Chumey): 7-9 May 2025
• Nimalung Tshechu (Chumey): 3-5 July 2025
• Kurjey Tshechu (Jakar): 5 July 2025
• Tamshingphala Choepa (Jakar): 2-4 October 2025
• Jakar Dzong Tshechu (Jakar): 10–12 Nov 2024
• Jambay Lakhang Drup (Tshechu) (Jakar): 15–18 Nov 2024

Buy

• Woven wool items (yethra) - garments, rugs and bags woven with brightly colored wool are a unique product of the Jakar/Chumey area and are highly prized throughout the kingdom.
• Dzo (female yak) cheese and preserves.
• Wood carvings

Shops

The main bazaar (Chamkhar) was severely damaged in a fire in 2010, and until 2024 the buildings were mostly temporary structures. In September 2024, the businesses in Chamkhar relocated to a new purpose-built retail and business area across the river in Jalikha. The new shopping area is home to a wide range of stores and includes a shopping complex.

• Udee Woodcarving Workshop. Furniture and traditional Bhutanese artifacts. https://www.facebook.com/udeebumthang/

Eat

Most of the tourist hotels in Jakar offer local and international cuisine

• 1 Himalayan Pizza (just off the main bazaar). Daily 09:00-21:00. Opened by a local guy who studied in Germany. Serves pizza and spaghetti. 
• Tashi Restaurant (below the dzong). Serves simple local dishes, such as ema datshi and cheese and meat momos. 
• Deki Hotel. Serves simple meals. 

Drink

Most of the tourist hotels in Jakar serve coffee, tea and alcohol. Fresh apple juice is also available in season.

Coffee

• Cafe Perk, Chamkhar Bazaar. Central location. Standard espresso based coffees. Traditional Bhutanese setting. Pizza. Pasta. Desserts (updated Apr 2018)
• Happy Cafe, Chamkhar Bazaar (in direction of Karchu Monastery, on right, next to the bridge). Full range of coffees. Reputedly the best pizza in town (updated Jul 2023)
• White Bird Cafe, Yugarling, ☏ +975 77852199, whitebird.cafe2023@gmail.com. Daily 10:00-21:00. Bright and airy atmosphere. Edge of town, near forest. Excellent cakes and desserts. Coffee. Pizza. 

Sleep

Mid-range

• Hotel Jakar View, Jalikha village (1.5 km from the main town), ☏ +975 17948345, hoteljakarviewbum@gmail.com. A family-run hotel surrounded by pine trees on all sides. The rooms have views over Jakar Town and Jakar Dzong. Activities and cooking classes can be arranged. Hot stone bath. 
• Jakar Village Lodge, ☏ +975 3 631-242, fax: +975 3 631-377. Below the dzong, this hotel is famous for its excellent food. 
• Kaila Lodge, ☏ +975 3 631-219, fax: +975 3 631-247. Decorated in classic style and convenient for town center. 
• Mipham Guest House (across the river from the main bazaar and just below Lhodrak Kharchhu Monstery). This stone and wood built building offers wood burning stoves in all its rooms and spectacular views across the valley to Jakar Dzong. Double 1,350 Nu, Single 1,250 Nu. 
• The Swiss Guest House, ☏ +975 3 631-145, fax: +975 3 631-918, swissguesthouse@druknet.bt. Above the river overlooking the town and the dzong. Surrounded by apple orchards. Beautifully decorated. Draft beer. Espresso-based coffees. 
• Wangdicholing Guest House, ☏ +975 3 631-107, fax: +975 3 631-138. A rebuilt lodge offering lovely views over the valley. 
• Yugharling Resort, ☏ +975 3 631602. Near the town. Good facilities and stunning views. 

Splurge

• Amankora Bumthang, ☏ +975 2-331333, amankora@amanresorts.com. An environmentally sensitive lodge in an apple orchard next to Wangdicholing Palace, run by superluxury hotel group Aman. The 16-room facility offers spa and international cuisine. US$1000. 
• Six Senses, ☏ +975 2 350 773. An eight-suit resort close to a river and within a dense blue pine forest. US$2,000. 

Chumey

• Chumey Nature Resort, Gyetsa (on the main Chumey-Jakar Highway), ☏ +975 77325961, chumeynatureresort08@gmail.com. A tourist standard hotel. Quiet forest location. Traditional and inviting interior 

Tang

• Ugyen Choling Palace, Ugyen Choling Village, olinghh@gmail.com. This converted palace offers four small and two large rooms. The remainder of the building is a museum and residence. (updated Nov 2024)

Cope

Connect

• Area dialling code: The code for Jakar and Bumthang is 03. From overseas, dial +975 3 XXXXXX
• Post Office: The main branch is at the lower end of the bazaar, near the bridge

Hospitals/clinics

• Tibetan Medicine: Yuthok Tendar Traditional Medicine Service Center, Lhodrak Kharchu Monastery. https://www.facebook.com/yuthoktendarcentre/?locale=cy_GB

• Western Medicine: Wangduecholing General Hospital. Wangduecholing. https://www.facebook.com/www.wangduecholinghos.bt/ A small, but well equipped hospital. with OPD and wards.

Go next

• Duer Hot Springs. A 1½-day trek from the road head.
• Ura (3,100 m). With its cobbled streets and monastery set against a backdrop of snow covered mountain peaks, Ura has a usually tranquil and gentle charm.