Jerez de Garcia Salinas

Jerez de García Salinas (always referred to as simply Jerez) is a town of 46,000 people (2020) in the historic mining state of Zacatecas. It is the center of a rural area noted for its production of fruit trees and dairy. The town was named a Pueblo Mágico to attract tourism, as it lies close to the state capital of Zacatecas and offers handcrafts, traditional food and architecture.

Understand

Portal Iguanazo

The town sits in a deep valley surrounded by forests and fruit orchards The architecture and layout are distinct from the state capital.

Much of town life is still traditional, with businesses closing all or part of Saturday. Charrería and bullfighting are important to the heritage of the area. A major tradition for the town is the Burning of Judas on Holy Saturday, which signals the start of the Feria de Primavera (spring festival). On this day there is charrería, cockfighting and a running of the bulls. The day is organized by the bar owners of the town and draws about 70,000 visitors. The Feria de Primavera is a secular fair, the oldest and most traditional of its type in the state. It dates back to 1824 when local authorities wanted to promote the area's products from produce to yarn, minerals and plaster. During Carnival, there is a tradition called La Jerezaditas, when children run among very young (one to two years old) bulls.

Get in

It is 57 km from the state capital of Zacatecas.

By plane

The closest airport is the Zacatecas Calera International airport (ZCL ^IATA) which is roughly an hour away by car. This airport is served almost exclusively by Aeromexico and straight flights from Chicago, Oakland, and Los Angeles are available. Fares tend to be a bit inflated due to low competition so it is potentially cheaper to fly to either Aguascalientes (AGU ^IATA) or even Guadalajara (GDL ^IATA) which are both roughly 3 to 4 hours away by car (add an hour if traveling by bus).

By bus

The bus transit system is used extensively in Mexico and Jerez is an easy destination from most major cities. Transit companies such as Omnibus de Mexico or ETN offer connecting service. If you are arriving from the city of Zacatecas, there is a special transit line at the Zacatecas bus station (central de autobuses) that offers service for travel specifically between the city of Zacatecas and Jerez.

• 1 Central Camionera (Bus station), Insurgentes, Nueva Reforma, ☏ +52 494 945 3412. Bus station with ticketing services and waiting room. Buses to Fresnillo, Zacatecas and other regional destinations. No ATM on-site. (updated Apr 2024)

Get around

The town of Jerez is extremely easy to navigate and small enough to get around by walking. As the town itself lies in a basin, it is completely flat and most streets (specifically within the town centre) are grid-like. Should you have any issues, don't worry about asking someone for directions. There are also taxis in the town centre or "jardin" which can offer service anywhere in the town for a relatively cheap fair - you can also negotiate a fare before taking the taxi. Keep in mind that the altitude is rather high (about 2,000 metres above sea level). If you are driving, also keep in mind that most streets are one way.

See

In Jerez, there is a wealth of sites that can be seen and most are within walking distance. Most are open 6 days a week with the exception of Saturday and holidays.

• The town is centered on a main square called Jardín Rafel Páez, which was the site of the old traditional market. It is surrounded by a wrought iron fence and in the center there is a Moorish style kiosk made of metal with a sandstone base. It is a popular place on Sundays for men playing dominoes and for bands playing a local music called tamborazo, a type of band music with a distinctive rhythm.
• On the south side of the square is the Portal Humboldt, which has two different types of arches, one in Romance style and the other in Arabic. To the north is the Portal Inguanzo, which dates from 1797. It is the exterior of what was a private home. Today the building houses a café-ice cream shop.
• 1 Casa Ramón López Velarde. Jerez is home to one of Mexico's most famous poets and his birthplace is beside La Parroquia. He is known for writing "La Suave Patria" which is a patriotic poem in reference to Mexico written at the beginning of the 20th century. His home has become a museum and is typically open during the day for a small fee. 

Parroquia de la Inmaculada Concepcion

• 2 Parroquia de la Inmaculada Concepcion. This is the main church in the centre of the town. It was built of white sandstone in the 18th century with a simple single bell tower and a Baroque facade. The arch of the main entrance is crowned by a papal crown and the keys of Saint Peter. Alongside, images of the Four Evangelists appear. The interior is Neoclassic with gold leaf accents on the altars and columns. 
• 3 Plaza Tacuba. This plaza is situated right behind the main church (Parroquia). It is typically used during festivals for outdoor concerts and exhibitions. It is also surrounded by a wealth of shops that offer mementos from coffee mugs to Mexican "sombreros" or "Sombrero de Charro. 

Santuario de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad

• 4 Santuario de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad (Shrine of Our Lady of Solitude). This is another church that is behind la Plaza Tacuba and La Parroquia. This church is used for marriage ceremonies as La Parroquia does not typically offer this service. The Sanctuary was built in 1805 over what was a hospital for the indigenous. It is said that its designer was inspired by the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela. The style is Neoclassic although it has various Baroque elements such as the main atrium gate. The interior is dominated by the main altar which houses the image of the Virgin Mary after the death of Jesus. There are also finely sculpted confession booths and pulpit. This Virgin is a local icon, who was named a “General” by troops during the Mexican Revolution and is celebrated each year from January to February. 

Teatro Hinojosa

• 5 Teatro Hinojosa. This is the town's main theatre which was built towards the end of the 19th century. It contains 3 levels, an orchestra level, and 2 higher levels. Legend has it that this theatre was modeled after Ford's Theatre where the U.S. President Abraham Lincoln was shot, supposedly in his honor as being the only president at the time to have defended Mexico. The interiors of the two theatres look strikingly similar. It is normally open during the day and there is typically no charge for entry. 
• The Palacio Municipal (Municipal Palace) or town government building is in a former two-story mansion which was built between 1730 and 1745. The building has a Baroque facade done in sandstone. It was remodeled in the last decades of the 20th century but its original facade was meticulously preserved. Inside, there is a central courtyard surrounded by arches with two stairwells to connect the floors. The main one is on the east side and the south one has a portrait of Francisco García Salinas.
• The Edificio de la Torre (Torre Building) was built on the site Pantaleón de la Torre donated to promote education and culture in the municipality in 1894 as a school for girls. The architectural style is a mix of Romance and Moorish built by stonemason Dámaso Muñetón, who also did the north tower of the Zacatecas Cathedral. Today the building houses the Jerez Cultural Center and the municipal library. An alley dedicated to local handcrafts is located alongside the Edificio de la Torre. These include boots, wide cowboy hats and embroidered leather belts (piteado).
• Behind the Sanctuary of Nuestra Señora de la Soledad is the Jardín Hidalgo, which is in front of the Hinojosa Theater. The theater is in Moorish style with arches, windows and railings in groups of three and five, built between 1876 and 1890, promoted by local politician José María Hinojosa. Its stage is under a sandstone arch and its seats are carved from wood. For most of its history, the lighting was provided by carbide lamps, and a large mirror in the back remains from that time. It is said that the building served as a barracks during the Mexican Revolution. Today it is used for live performances but in the past it was a movie theatre, a hall for social events, a library and a public school. On the side of the building, there is a Community Museum with items such as carpentry tools, archeological pieces, sewing machines and more from the area's past.
• The Ramón López Velarde House Museum is on the street which is named after the most famous poet from the town. The house was the childhood home of López Velarde has its original furnishings from the 19th century, along with the poet's personal items such as family photographs, copies of manuscripts of works such as Suave Patria, a work completed in 1921 to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the end of the Mexican War of Independence.
• The Portal de las Palomas (the entrance hall of the Columbidae) is home to several traditional bars, fronted by a square called Plaza Tacuba.
• The Casa de Campesino is a construction from the 18th century which was the home of various organizations for rural farmers. Today it is a multiuse building.
• The Chapel of Nuestra Señora de los Dolores (Our Lady of Sorrow) was built at the beginning of the 19th century.
• The Tizoc Bar is also a store that sells antiques and handcrafts.
• The town market is a building with arches on two sides. The market offers fruits and vegetables along with handcrafts and prepared food.

Do

Events

• Feria de la Primavera (Spring Fair). Held since 1824, the Jerez fair has been held shortly after the arrival of spring, and at the end of Lent, it has been distinguished by its events, such as the Saturday of Glory, the day when more than 40,000 people gather in the small town, to witness or participate in the traditional charro parade and burning of judas. To this day, the Saturday of Glory party is recognized nationally and internationally for its joy and particularity, which brings together tens of thousands of people. A festival that grows and becomes more popular day by day, the one that represents the maximum celebration of the people of Jerez.
• Jerezada. The Peña Taurina Jerezana was formed on the first Friday of February 1996 in the "Bohemian Corner" of the Zacatecan painter and sculptor "El Cuate Pérez", in which a group of bullfighting fans gathered where the meeting aimed to dignify and rescue Jerez Taurinamente.
• Festival de la Tostada (Toast Festival). It is a gastronomic event that includes artistic presentations, sporting events and the gastronomic sample with a great variety of typical toasts of the municipality.
• Tambora Festival. It is said that the popular tamborazo had its origins in Jomulquillo in Jerez, Zacatecas, a musical rhythm highly valued by inhabitants of the region and beyond Zacatecan lands. As an initiative to promote and honor great exponents of this musical genre, the Tambora Festival is held in Jerez again, taking place on the “musician's day” in which Santa Cecilia is celebrated.

Buy

• 1 Mercado Municipal Benito Juarez, 99300, De Los Libres 3, Zona Centro. Daily 07:30 - 19:00. The town's main traditional marketplace. Vendors selling a range of farm fresh produce and food stands selling the most authentic regional dishes you can get. Great place for inexpensive meals. (updated Apr 2024)

Eat

Must try the famous Flautas las Palma's I and II. This business was opened by Isabel Dominguez my beautiful grandma years ago and later 2nd restaurant was opened by one of her grown daughters my aunt and her husband.

• 1 Taqueria Muñoz, Fco. Villa 4f, Zaragoza, ☏ +52 494 106 3749. W-M 15:00 - 23:00, closed Tu. Popular place for cheap, fast eats. A variety of street tacos are served with homemade salsas. M$100. (updated Apr 2024)
• 2 Los Dorados de Tlalte, Del Río 13-B, Guadalupe, ☏ +52 492 201 3483. Daily 15:00 - 23:00. Casual cheap eats taqueria serving gorditas, street tacos, and similar antojitos. Portions are small but so are prices so order at least twice what you would elsewhere. M$100. (updated Apr 2024)
• 3 Tostadas Pepito, Del Río 32, Guadalupe. Jerez is known for its tostadas, and this is one of the older food stands that sets the standard. Crispy corn tortilla shells are piled high with toppings that may include meat, onions, and always sauce. This stand makes a unique red salsa that locals rave about. M$100. (updated Apr 2024)

Sleep

• 1 Posada San Miguel, De La Parroquia 24, Zona Centro, ☏ +52 494 108 2021. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. Beautiful historic traditional hotel with period era furnishings and spacious, clean rooms. M$1400. (updated Apr 2024)
• 2 Hotel Leo, Jerez, Banrural, ☏ +52 494 945 2001. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Modern tower hotel with basic cheap furnishings. Friendly service. On-site restaurant. M$1000 (Apr 2024). (updated Apr 2024)
• 3 Hotel Express, La Suave Patria 53, Banrural, ☏ +52 494 947 1253. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. Modern traveler hotel in a Pemex parking lot. Basic rooms are comfortable and quiet. Limited on-site parking. M$600. (updated Apr 2024)
• 4 Hotel Jardin, Plaza Principal, Alameda Pte. 5, Zona Centro, ☏ +52 494 945 2026. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Traditional downtown hotel in an historic building at the town's main plaza. Rooms are basic with minimal amenities and no air conditioning. Parking is off-site. M$600. (updated Apr 2024)

Go next

• Zacatecas
• Fresnillo
• Aguascalientes