Kharga Oasis

Kharga (Arabic الخارجة) is an oasis in the Western Desert of Egypt.

Towns and villages

• 1 Kharga (Arabic: الخارجة‎) – The main town and transport hub. It is entirely modern but has visitor facilities, and the district is dotted with ancient sites, the best being the Temple of Hibis and the necropolis of El Bagawat. References on this page to Kharga mean this town and vicinity unless "Kharga oasis" is specified.
• 2 Baris (Arabic: باريس‎) – The other town, 86 km south and separated by a strip of desert. The main sight is the Roman-era temple at Qasr Dush, and there's also the weird modern shell of the Hassan Fathy village. Baris lacks facilities so most visitors day-trip from Kharga.
• 3 Hassan Fathy Village – 8 km north of Baris is one of several 20th C villages across Egypt created by re-imagining traditional adobe styles, under the tutelage of architect Fathy (1900-1989). Construction began in the 1960s but halted on the outbreak of war in 1967; the project was abandoned and the buildings were never used.
• 4 Qasr Baris – A village with a Roman adobe ruin.
• 5 Qasr el Labacha – A settlement 35 km north of Kharga town, with a Roman fort. You will need an off-road vehicle.

Understand

Kharga is the largest of the five western oases, 160 km long and from 20 km to 80 km wide. The main town is also called Kharga, separated by a desert strip from Baris to the south. The reason to visit is the antiquities just north of Kharga town, and the string of Roman forts set up to control Darb El Arbayin, the "Forty Days Road" bringing gold and ivory from Africa into Egypt.

Like the other western oases, the climate is hot desert, 40+°C summer and 10°C in winter. There is zero rainfall and all the oasis supply is "fossil water" extracted from the aquifer, a non-renewable resource.

Get in

Chārga pass, view to the east

Kharga has an airport but no flights, and trains no longer run here. The old narrow-gauge railway from the Nile valley was replaced in 1989 by a standard-gauge track all the way to Safaga on the Red Sea coast, intended to export phosphates from Kharga's deposits. But by the time it was completed the price of phosphates had dropped, the deposits were never mined, and the new line was abandoned. The track still lies alongside the highway between Kharga and Baris, and in parts along the Baris-Luxor road.

By bus

Buses run at least daily from Asyut, which is on the main Cairo-Luxor road and railway. They set off at 8AM and take 3-4 hr to Kharga. Some continue to Dakhla Oasis, another 3-4 hr. Along the road 2-3 hr out from Asyut, admire the melon field of Wadi Battish - the desert sand is dotted with limestone footballs or geodes. After another 40 km the road tops Kharga Pass to descend into the oasis.

By road

There is a direct highway from Luxor to Baris, at the south end of the oasis. There is no public transport along this route but it is a good highway for taxis and private vehicles.

A highway leads south from the oasis for mile upon aching desert mile, following the ancient caravan trail towards Darfur, before despairing of further progress and looping back north to Dakhla oasis. There is no crossing point into Sudan.

Get around

On foot

The principal sights of Kharga town are within a long walk on a cool day, but you do not want to be weary before you start, and then there is the getting back.

By taxi

Arrange a taxi to take you around the antiquities, the driver will know which dusty unsignposted turn-off to head down.

Several sights need a vehicle, and some are only for off-road vehicles with a guide.

By bus

Buses and minibuses ply between Kharga and Baris, taking an hour.

See

Temple of Hibis

The region features dozens and dozens of archaeological sites, from Pharaonic, Roman and other ancient eras. If you want a thorough insight into the topic, consult the guides about the region in the German-language Wikivoyage

• 1 Temple of Hibis. 2 km north of Kharga town, is a large well-preserved temple from the Saite-Persian period of 664-404 BCE. It originally stood on a lake island in the town of Hibis, but lake and ancient town are now farmland, and Hibis means "plough". The temple is dedicated to two versions of the god Amun. You enter down a long hallway lined with sphinxes, through several pylons into the main temple. The hypostyle hall has walls shaped like huge papyrus rolls, richly decorated. One of these, showing Seth defeating Apep, is a foretaste of Saint George and the Dragon. The naos or inner shrine has a pantheon of Egyptian deity and royal figures, with almost 700 figures. Adult admission LE80, combi-ticket with El Bagawat LE120, as of Nov 2019.  

• Seen on a hill east of the Temple of Hibis is the larger of the two temples of Nadura. They are both scrappy, so that is probably close enough.
• North of the temple heading towards the Necropolis are remnants of a Roman Christian settlement at Ain el-Kharab and the monastery of Ain Gallal.

Chapel domes at El Bagawat

• 2 Necropolis of El Bagawat, Kharga (1 km north of temple). One of the oldest Christian cemeteries in Egypt, which had been used in pre-Christian times. There are 263 Coptic funeral chapels, of which the Chapels of Exodus and of Peace have frescoes of the 4th-7th C AD. There are many mud-brick chapel domes, etched with biblical stories. Adult LE80, combi-ticket with Hibis LE120. (updated Apr 2020)

• Another km north of the Necropolis are monastic ruins of Ain Muṣṭafa Qashiff and Deir el Bagawat.
• A further 2 km north is a collection of ruins around Ain Sa'af, Tahunat Hawa (with a tall tower), Burg el Hammam and Gebel el Teir (which has cave carvings).

• 3 Umm al Dabadib (in the desert 50 km north of Kharga). A 4th C AD Roman fortress. It is by a waterhole, an obvious spot for an army base and checkpoint on the caravan route. It's still being excavated and one curiosity is that although designed by and for the late Roman Empire, the units of building correspond to ancient Egyptian cubits. There are also rock tombs and an aqueduct. You will need a guide and an off-road vehicle to get here safely and back.  

Roman fortress at Deir el Munira

• 4 El Munira. The Romans fortified every waterhole on the road north, with a good example here. (Determined to be their imperial equals, the British also had a military camp nearby.) Some 5 km west into the desert are the temples of Ain el Tarakwa and Qaṣr el Ḍabashīya. (updated Jun 2020)

• Other Roman forts to the north are at Muhammed Tuleib, El Sumeira and Qasr el Gibb.

• 5 Ain el Bileida (7 km northwest of Kharga). A complex with a fortress, two temples and various adobe buildings. (updated Jun 2020)

• 6 Qasr el Baramuni (on a ridge 4 km south of Kharga). The remains of a fortress. Other remains in this area are scattered, scrappy, or almost buried in sand. (updated Jun 2020)

Temple of Quweita

• 7 Qasr el Quweita (Qasr el-Ghueita) (20 km south of Kharga). A triple temple to Amon, Mut and Chons. It is extensive, with carvings. There is not much to see at Ain Askar 500 m away, but interesting artefacts have been found. (updated Jun 2020)

• 8 Qaṣr ez Zaiyan (another 5 km south from Qasr el Quweita). Has a temple to Amun of Hibis. (updated Jun 2020)

• 9 Tombs of the Sheikhs (32 km south of Kharga, 4 km south of the village of Bulaq). Prince Khalid lies to the south (at the GPS marker) and Sheikh Qamr ad Daula to the north. The road south of here is through desert, until the oasis resumes towards Baris. (updated Jun 2020)

• 10 Ain Shams ed-Din (70 km south of Kharga and 20 km north of Baris). It has remains of a fortress, church and graveyard. (updated Jun 2020)

• 11 Tafnis el-Balad. A mountain collection of caves and rock shrines with Greek inscriptions. The public road only reaches the village of Ain Tafnis, and you must have an off-road vehicle and an official archaeologist guide to access the site. 

• 12 Qasr Dush (15 km south of Baris). Daily 9AM-5PM. The main sight is the extensive sandstone Temple of Isis, Sarapis (or Osiris) and Horus. It was begun under Domitian circa 50 AD and completed over 60 years under Hadrian and Trajan. There's also a smaller second temple of similar date, a Roman fortress, and graveyard. Gold ornaments found nearby in 1989 are now in the Cairo Egyptian Museum. Adult LE80, combi-ticket with Hibis and Bagawat LE120. (updated Apr 2020)

• 13 Ain Manawir (out in the sand dunes 5 km northwest of Qasr Dush). It has the scrappy remains of a temple, fortress and aqueduct. Ain Ziyada east of the highway is under excavation (as of 2019) so you cannot visit, and there's little to see. (updated Jun 2020)

• 14 Tower of the Dervishes. In the village of Maqs el-Qibli looks venerable but was only built in 1893 as a British bastion during the Mahdi uprising. It is now a private dwelling. 

• 15 English Mountain (along the highway to Dakhla). It is the implausible name of one outcrop, where a British observation post was built in 1915. It is littered with canisters and similar remnants, and there is even the hulk of a railway station. (updated Jun 2020)

Do

Dig deeper into the subject. This page only covers sights of interest to the casual visitor, but far more is known, on top of the many unknowns that are sure to lie unexcavated. For more, click on the left sidebar to reach the German version, which runs to 36 pages and a level of detail to make all but a desert-hardened archaeologist break out in hives. For entirely different approaches to Egyptian scholarship, read The Egyptologists by Kingsley Amis and Robert Conquest (Random House 1965), or any "Oriental" murder mystery by Agatha Christie (who married a renowned archaeologist and traveled widely in these parts), or just hum the tunes from Aida.

Buy

There is a line of small stores for basics in the centre of Kharga and to a lesser extent along main drag in Baris. You do not come here for shopping, which is why the traders of antiquity just rested their camels before plodding onward to the fleshpots and markets of the Nile.

• 1 Old market (near the Darb es-Sindādīya west of Mīdān asch-Schaʿala). Partially covered market.  
• El-Bassatin Souq (south of Mīdān el-Bassātīn). 
• 2 Kharga town week market. A bit outside the city, maybe a kilometer and a half from downtown along the road to Bārīs, there are halls where a market takes place each Thursday. 

Eat

Kharga has a cluster of simple places in town centre all with similar fare. They will be delighted to see a Westerner, especially anyone with Arabic beyond "salaam" and with ready cash. Baris has a handful of similar places. There is nothing along the badlands roads beyond (the clue's in the word "desert"), so eat it all up and say shukran.

Restaurants mostly open only for dinner, and open around 19:00.

Ibn el-Balad

Wimby el-Bassatin

• 1 Al-Geheiny, Midan el-Bassatin. On the northern side of Mīdān el-Bassātīn this restaurant is more value for money than Wimby. For example kebab and kofta on the menu. 

• 2 Alsayad Restaurant (north of Midan el-Bassatin, opposite the Ministry of Health). Restaurant and snack kiosk. You can eat chicken, shwarma, barbecue foods, sandwiches, salads and desserts. 
• 3 El-Ahram, Sh. en-Nabawi (south of Oasis Hotel (Waha Hotel)). 
• 4 El-Baraka, Midan el-Bassatin. Open every day, also for lunch. Egyptian cuisine. 
• 5 Estacoza Seafood. Fish restaurant. 
• 6 Ibn el-Muallim, Gamal Abdel Nasser St.. Fast food restaurant with fuul, falafel and salads on the menu. (updated Apr 2016)
• 7 Pizza Ibn el-Balad, Midan esch-Scha'ala (southeastern part of town). Pizzeria. 
• 8 Wimby el-Bassatin (auch Wimpy Restaurant) (Downtown near Midan el-Bassatin, at the southern side of the palace). daily 08:00–01:00. The only restaurant in Kharga open throughout the day. No English menu, but staff understands English. They serve a wide range of food: chicken, liver, lasagne, soups, rice, vegetables, salads, kofta and kebab.  

• Hotel Sol Y Mar Pioneers also has a restaurant, they serve alcohol.

Drink

Café Malūkī

Mint tea is always a good choice, any time of day.

• 1 Café Malūkī (Meloky Caffee), Gamal 'Abd el-Nasser St. (south of Sāḥa square, on the western side). Drinks and food. 
• 2 Sehraya Café and Restaurant (east of Banque du Caire). Friday 16:00-4:00, all other days 9:00-4:00,. Free Wi-Fi (updated Apr 2016)

Sleep

Kharga is short on accommodation for being the biggest city in the New Valley and the surrounded by a wealth of archaeological sites. The cheaper places are very barebones and should be considered only if you really must save money.

Budget

• 1 Al Dar Al Bayda Hotel (also El Dar El Beida, previously Casablanca), Midan esch-Scha'ala. Very simple hotel.  
• 2 El Radwan Hotel (west of Sh. Gamal 'Abd el-Nasser, near the museum), ☏ +20 92 292 1716, +20 92 292 9897. Rooms with AC. 
• 3 El Safwa Hotel, Wasfi St, ☏ +20 92 293 3642. In a tiny "skyscraper" with six rooms (one single, two doubles and three triples), one on each floor and there's no elevator. Rooms have AC and private bathrooms with shower. (updated Apr 2016)
• 4 El Zohour Hotel (ez-Zuhūr district, on the northern side of the road). 18 double rooms with tv, fridge and some rooms have AC (the rest have fans).  

Mid-range

• 5 Hala Hotel, Midan Gamal 'Abd el-Nasser, Asyout El-Kharga Road. 36 double rooms, some in the main building, the rest in the adjacent bungalows, with tv and bathroom with shower. Rooms are clean but otherwise run-down. There's a garden behind the main building. Buses from Asyūṭ pass outside the hotel, you can ask the driver beforehand to let you off.  

• 6 Qasr El Bagawat Hotel, Asyout El Kharga Desert Road, El Kharga 72511 (next to Necropolis), fax: +20 2 2378 5849 (Cairo Office). A kind of an ecolodge, east of the el-Bagawāt cemetery. There are six double rooms in bungalows and two suites. Rooms have ensuite bathrooms but there's no Wi-Fi, tv, or AC. There's a restaurant and a small playing ground. The staff's English is non-existent and the hotel seems to be focused on wealthy domestic tourists.  

Splurge

• 7 Solymar Pioneers, Sh. Gamal 'Abd el-Nasser (northern part of Kharga), ☏ +20 92 292 9751, +20 92 292 9752, +20 92 292 9753, fax: +20 92 7792 9983. One of the few four-star hotels in the Western desert and while it's moderately priced you reportedly don't get much value for your money. There are 102 rooms with balcony, tv, telephone, AC and minibar. The hotel has a pool, a bar, a restaurant and a café. The hotel is temporarily closed until September 2023. (updated Oct 2018)

Stay safe

See the warning on the Iraq article for information about the security situation.

Connect

There are four main carriers in Egypt. Reckon to get a signal for a call within 5 km of the two towns, but not 4G. Beyond the towns, zero—the desert is a cruel place.

Go next

• Back to Asyut returns you to the Nile valley and thence to Cairo.
• A direct highway cuts across the desert from Baris to magnificent Luxor. You need private transport to reach it.
• 200 km west of Kharga is the oasis of Dakhla, reached by daily bus. From there you can journey through the other oases of the Western Desert to the Med coast.
• Not Sudan or Libya alas. You may not cross these nearby borders.