Khmelnytskyi

Khmelnytskyi (Ukrainian: Хмельницький, also transliterated Khmelnitsky from Russian: Хмельницкий) is a city in the Podillia region of Western Ukraine. The city has a population of roughly 290,000.

Understand

While the city is in western Ukraine, people in Khmelnytskyi don't speak Ukrainian exclusively (as is generally the case in the nearby city of Ternopil). Many in Khmelnytskyi speak Russian as their first language, or a mixture of the two languages known as surzhyk (суржик). It appears that both Ukrainian and Russian can be used interchangeably in Khmelnytskyi.

• Tourist information center (Туристическое агентство Хмельницктурист, Khmelnitskturist Travel agency), Prybuzka, 6, ☏ +380 382 702495. 

Get in

By train

There are frequent trains from Kyiv to Khmelnytskyi, keep alert because Khmelnytskyi isn't the final destination but rather one stop along the way and you don't want to end up in Ternopil or Lviv by accident. However the carriage attendant should inform you (in Russian or Ukrainian) when the train is approaching your stop. A good idea is to know your time of arrival and set your phone's alarm 30 minutes beforehand.

• 1 Khmelnytskyi train station (Залізничний вокзал Хмельницький), Proskurivska str., 92 (East), ☏ +380 382 694101. This is rather drab and depressing as can often be the case with train stations in eastern Europe and as with bus and train stations worldwide they can often attract people of a dubious nature especially if you arrive at night so best to get away into the city once you arrive, taxis wait just outside the exit. - Trains to Ternopil, Kyiv, Lviv. +380 382 79511, Cash desk for advance sale of railway tickets: +380 382 694101 (updated Sep 2023)
• 2 Advance sale of railway tickets (Каса попереднього продажу залізничних квитків), Podilska, 25 (NW), ☏ +380 382 659835. 

By bus

• 3 Khmelnytskyi Central Bus Station (Центральний автовокзал), Vinnytske highway, 23, ☏ +380 382 789357. Buses from Kyiv. +phone=+380 382 789355 
• 4 Khmelnytskyi Bus Station #2 (Автовокзал №2), Str. Shevchenka, 66, ☏ +380 382 795448. 
• 5 Khmelnytskyi Bus Station #3 (Автовокзал №3), Str. Prymakova, 29 (near the train station), ☏ +380 382 652124. 

Get around

By public transport

Khmelnytskyi has a convenient public transport system:

• 13 bus routes
• 32 marshrutka routes
• 26 trolleybus routes

Single ride tickets in buses and marshrutkas cost 12 грн, in trolleybuses — 6 грн.

Schedules are available on rozklad.in.ua (in Ukrainian).

You can also check information about public transport on DozoR (in Ukrainian), EasyWay and Google Maps.

By taxi

Taxi is the easiest way of getting around the city. Some popular taxi companies include:

• Uber (Убер). (updated Sep 2023)
• Bolt (Болт). (updated Sep 2023)
• Uklon (Уклон). (updated Sep 2023)
• OnTaxi (ОнТаксі). (updated Sep 2023)
• Opti (Опті). (updated Sep 2023)
• Shark (Шарк). (updated Oct 2023)

By scooter

Kick scooter is a funny way to shorten your time while getting around the city.

• Bolt (Болт). (updated Sep 2023)

See

Churches

The city centre is relatively compact and can be easily explored on foot. If you want a tourist city with a multitude of attractions then Khmelnytskyi isn't for you, if you want an authentic Ukrainian city with generally friendly people, good prices and fewer rip offs than in the usual tourist centres then Khmelnytskyi is a good spot.

• 1 Church of Christ of King of Universe (Римо-католицька церква Христа Царя Всесвіту), Myru ave., 55 (N). Roman Catholic Church 
• 2 Nativity of the Virgin Church (Собор Різдва Пресвятої Богородиці), Vul. Soborna (Соборна вул.), 12? (Center). In 1670s in this place stood a small wooden church. In 1835 construction began on the cathedral. In 1930s the church bells were removed because of the needs of industrialization, and in 1937 the temple was closed. It used as a warehouse and later as an archive room. In 1990 it reopened. 
• 3 Temple of Michael (HHram Arkhystratyga Michayela. Храм Архістратига Михаїла), Str. Kurchatova, 4a (W), ☏ +380 382 551759. 
• 4 Sviato-Pokrovskyi Cathedral (Свято-Покровський кафедральний собор), Str. Volodymyrska, 113 (Center), ☏ +380 382 650322. 
• 5 Church of Saint George (Церква Святого Георгія Победоносца), Str. Franka Ivana, ☏ +380 382 656055. The temple was built as a regimental church of 46th Infantry Regiment of Dnieper. 
• 6 Church of Immaculate heart of the Blessed Virgin Maria (Римо-католицька церква Непорочного серця Пресвятої Діви Марії), Str. Pilotska, 8/1, ☏ +380 382 740071. Roman Catholic Church 
• 7 Cathedral of Saint Andrew (Собор святого Апостола Андрія Первозванного), Kozatska, 69, ☏ +380 382 720830. It was built in the late 19th century as the regimental church of the 35th of Belgorod Dragoons, who in 1880 was transferred to Proskurov. Regimental church operated until 1920. Since 1920s it was used as a gym. In 1991 service was resumed in a restored Orthodox church. 

Museums

• 8 Regional Museum (Краєзнавчий музей), Vul. Podilska (Подільська вул.), 12. 
• 9 City History Museum (Музей історії міста Хмельницького), Vul. Proskurivska (Проскурівська вул.), 30. 
• 10 Art Museum (художній музей), Vul. Proskurivska (вул. Проскурівська), 47, ☏ +380 382 656115, museum.kh@mail.ru. M- Sa 09:00-18:00. 
• 11 Museum of Proskurivs'koho Underground, Vul. Shevchenka ( Шевченка вул), 3/1 (East). Partizan museum 

Monuments

• 12 Fountain "Baron Munchausen", Vul Kamyanetska (Кам'янецька вул.) at #48 (yard). 

Struve Geodetic Arc

Three points of this world heritage site are outside Khmelnytskyi:

• 13 "Katerinowka": Katerinowka, Antonivka - The Katerinowka marker is about 500 m northwest of the rural road north of Katerinovka. There is a straight path from the road to the point, which is made up of a black stone a bit reminiscent of a gravestone with an inscription in Ukrainian describing Struve's measurement project. Next to it there's a tripod with a small disk on the middle rod.

• 14 "Felschtin": Felschtin, Hvardiiske - Like many other markers in the southern part of the world heritage, this one is also in a field on a little elevated point and is one of those where little hiking is required as it is almost next to the road. Again it is a black stone, a bit larger than the last one, has a tripod setup and a white Orthodox Christian cross next to it.

• 15 "Baranowka": Baranowka, Baranivka - About 100 m off the road in a field surrounded by some trees, this is a simpler marker comprising a black stone with inscription in Ukrainian.

Do

Parks

• 1 Dendropark Podillia (Дендропарк Поділля), highway Starokostiantynivs'ke (N). 
• 2 Mykhailo Chekman Park (Парк ім. Михайла Чекмана), Str. Proskurivskoho Pidpillia (W). The biggest green area in the city 
• 3 Park of Taras Shevchenko (Сквер им. Т. Шевченко), Str. Hrushevskoho Mykhaila (Center). For more than a hundred years of its shady avenues and manicured flower gardens delight the eye with the townspeople. Over the 15th-18th centuries, this area was the outskirts of the ancient Proskurov settlement. In 1824, this taken by a large trade area. Part of the oak trees cut down along the perimeter of the square built shops and warehouses, and the center left no room for trade carts. The Square/Park named Bread and became the main venue for trade fairs and in Proskurov. Proskurov gradually grew, and soon the area became Bread is too small to hold fairs. In 1888, city officials decided to move the main shopping area close to the train station. Grain area given to the quartering of the 46 units of the Dnieper Infantry Regiment. Shops and warehouses converted under the barracks, and the spaces fairgrounds was used as a parade ground. In 1992, this park was named about an unveiled monument to Taras Shevchenko. 
• 4 Pioneerskiy garden (Піонерський сквер), Vul. Proskurivska (вул. Проскурівська), (Center). 
• 5 Park of Ivan Franko (Парк ім. Івана Франка), Vul. Proskurivs'ka. 66/1 (Center). 
• 6 Park of Tank Crew (Парк Танкістів), Vul. Kamyanetska, 98 (S). 

Theatres

• 7 Khmelnytskyi Puppet Theatre (Khmelnytskyi Akademichniy Oblasniy Teatr Lyalyok, Хмельницький Академік театр ляльок), Vul. Proskurivska (вул. Проскурівська), 46. (updated Sep 2023)
• 8 Cinema Shevchenka, Vul. Proskurivska (вул. Проскурівська ), 40. 
• 9 City Culture House, Vul. Proskurivska (вул. Проскурівська), 35. 

Further afield

Medzhybizh Castle

• 6 Izyaslav village (n 108 km). Main sights: Bernardines monastery (монастир бернардинців), 1600s; St.Joseph missionaries church + cells (костел місіонерів св.Йосифа), 1750, Sanguszkos' estate, 1650. 
• 7 Orlovskis' estate, Maliivtsi village (Садиба Орловських) (south 60 km). Built in 1900s 
• 8 Medzhybizh Castle (Меджибі́зький замок, Medzhybiz'kyi zamok) (east 39 km). Built as a bulwark against Ottoman expansion in the 1540s, became one of the strongest fortresses of the Crown of the Kingdom of Poland in Podolia. Renovated in the 19th century. 
• 9 Letychiv Castle and Dominicans monastery (замок і домініканський монастир) (east 52 km). Built in 1600s 
• 10 Sharivka village (Шарівка) (S 34 km). Protection of the Virgin church-fortress (Покровська церква-фортеця), 14th-16th century, 1773 
• 11 Samchyky estate remains in Slavuta (Садиба Сангушків,Славута) (N 120 km). Built in 1820. 
• 12 Scheschelei estate in Samchyky (садиба Чечелей, с.Самчики) (NE 61 km). Built in 19th century. Now, it is a museum. 
• 13 Sutkivtsi village church-fortress (Сутківці) (S 34 km). Protection of the Virgin church-fortress (Покровська церква-фортеця), 1467 
• 14 Trinity monastery in Satanivska Slobidka village (Свято-Троїцький монастир і церква Сатанівська Слобідка) (SW 55 km). Built in 16th-18th century. Monastery complex consists of the gate bell with cells, gates and fences, rebuilt in 1744 in Baroque style. On three sides it is surrounded by two meter thick walls, up to 6 m high. 
• 15 Castle of Dukes Ostrozkyi in Starokostyantyniv town (замок князів Острозьких) (north 40 km). Built in 1561-1571 

Dental tourism

Ukraine is increasingly becoming a destination for dental tourism, specifically Kyiv, but people may also be interested in dental treatments in Khmelnytskyi as the prices when compared to western Europe, North America and elsewhere are extremely reasonable, prices are also cheaper than in Kyiv. An example being endodontic treatments (specifically root canal treatment) which in dental clinics in Khmelnytskyi can be completed for roughly 2,000 грн in total (this price is for a molar tooth, pre-molars are even cheaper) This includes anaesthesia, x-ray(s), the procedure itself along with the use of "gutta percha" and of course a composite filling. One such dental clinic is almost directly across from a city bus station (it is unknown whether this is the main bus station), rather uniquely it is called "Dental Surgery" at 6, Soborna Street, Khmelnytskyi. Tel: +380 382651660. Look out for the large sign with a tooth on it. The clinic looked clean both inside and outside, the surgical room can be seen from the street and looks as modern as any in the West. No English is spoken so you may need to have a Ukrainian friend or interpreter accompany you unless you speak some Ukrainian or Russian or else put your faith in hand gestures and a phrasebook.

Buy

There is a large newly built shopping centre with a well stocked western style supermarket at the edge of the city. A taxi to it from the city centre should cost 10-15 грн.

• 1 'City Centr' Shopping centre, Proskurivska (вул. Проскурівська ), 55-57. 
• 2 Central department Store (Центральний універмаг), Proskurivska (вул. Проскурівська ),50, ☏ +380 382 787575. 
• 3 Atrium Shopping centre (ТЦ АТРІУМ,), Vul. Proskurovskoho Podpolya (ул. Проскуровского Подполья), 63. 
• 4 Dytyachyy svit (Children's World) Shopping center (Торговельний центр "Дитячий світ"), Vul. Proskurivska (Проскурівська вул.), 4/1. 
• 5 Lybid-Plaza - Hotel-Entertainment-Shopping Center (Торгово-розважальний готельний комплекс "Либідь Плаза"), Vul. Kamyanetska (Камянецька вул.), 25 (Center). Wi-Fi 
• 6 Food Market (Продуктовий ринок), Primakova (Примакова вул.), ~40. 
• 7 Magnit Shopping Center (Торговельний центр Магніт), Vul. Podilska (Подільська вул.), 21 (Center). Wi-Fi 

Eat

In the basement of Hotel Central (Hotel Centralny) there is an eatery open to guests and non-guests alike offering nice, simple food at very good prices. There are numerous restaurants throughout the city.

Drink

There are a number of cafes, bars and nightclubs in the city. If you are a foreigner people may wonder what you are doing in their city (as it is not a tourist city) and may view you with some amusement. Be friendly, polite, try your hand at speaking a few words of Russian or Ukrainian and things should go ok. Keep an eye on what you drink and how much you drink, it's quite possible the locals are used to drinking more than you are! In a bar/pub a vodka (Ukrainian brand but just as good as any imported brand) should cost a maximum of 10 грн, most likely this price is for 100 ml. Prices tend to be a little higher in nightclubs but not excessively. It should also be possible to buy a bottle of vodka in a nightclub, either 0.5 L or 0.7 L, for a reasonable price, under 100 грн.

Sleep

• Hotel Centralny (Hotel Central) at 5, Gagarin Street (near the centre) Tel: +380 382657759. No website (although some basic information and even some photos of this hotel can be found on the net however for best prices book directly with the hotel) Very minimal English, if any. This tourist class hotel offers the best priced hotel rooms in the city. Prices direct from the hotel start at 150 грн for a passable en-suite single room with TV (no English language stations but possibly some music stations) and breakfast (you'll be given a voucher for breakfast which can be had in the basement eatery) The en-suite isn't exactly to western standard (old shower but with hot water, possibly leaking pipe from sink, no sink stopper, dim lighting) Double rooms which are roughly double the price may be a little better. Apparently the hotel has free wifi but it's unknown whether this is simply in the lobby or also in the rooms.
• Optima Collection Khmelnytskyi (Optima Collection Хмельницький), 10 Hnata Chekirdy Street, ☏ +380 382735373, +380 672382372, khmelnytskyi@optimahotels.com.ua. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. From 1,715 грн. (updated Sep 2023)

Connect

An alternative for internet should the free internet at any hotel not work or should no internet be available is a mobile broadband dongle which you attach to your laptop can be purchased from MTS (a mobile/cell phone provider with stores all over Ukraine including 10 stores in Khmelnytskyi) for 399 грн and when topped up by 8 грн it gives unlimited broadband access for 24 hr. MTS has national coverage so the dongle will provide you with internet all over Ukraine and not just in Khmelnytskyi of course. The basic mobile broadband SIM pack on its own costs 60 грн with preloaded credit of 20 грн (prices as of Dec 2011).

Go next

• Kamianets-Podilskyi - S 100 km. Sights in this town: the Old castle (Старий замок), 12-19th century; the Armenian church, 1490s; the Fortifications of town, 16-18th century; the Russian gate, 17th century; the Polish town council, 1390s; the Smotrych river canyon, the cathedral, 1500–1750.