Kiviõli

Kiviõli is in East Estonia. The name of the town translates to "stone oil", in referral to the local oil shale deposits and the industry related to it.

Understand

In 2011, more than 50% of the city's 5600 residents were of Russian origin, while less than 40% were of Estonian origin. Kiviõli's most famous objects can be considered the Kiviõli ash hills, which have arisen in connection with the oil shale industry. The height of the mountains is 138 and 135 m; these are among the highest artificial mountains in the Baltics. While it is a largely industrial town, there are several sites of interest in the region.

Get in

By train

Kiviõli is on the Tallinn - Tapa - Rakvere - Narva railway line. The Kiviõli station is part of the Tallinn-Narva train route between the Sonda and Püssi stops. Schedules can be found here- under "East Train Schedule".

• 1 Railway station (between Jaama and Raudtee streets).  The station is located in the southwestern part of the city, almost on the outskirts and next to the plant. There are many tracks at the railway stop, but only one platform, at which all passenger trains stop.  

By car 

The city is not on the main highway. From Tallinn, drive along highway 1, turn at the turn near the village of Sämi and go straight. From East Estonia towards Kiviõli, there is a turn next to the Kiviõli bus stop. The road through Kiviõli, in principle, can also be used to get to Kohtla-Järve, Jõhvi or Narva; this can save some time, although the road there, of course, is not of the same quality as the main Tallinn-Narva highway.

From Kiviõli to Tallinn it is 145 km, to Tartu 138 km, to Narva only 82 km.

By bus 

The easiest way to get to Kiviõli is by bus. Various buses from Tallinn, Kohtla-Järve, Jõhvi, Sillamäe or Narva stop daily at Kiviõli. Most of these buses travel for a very long time and stop everywhere. There are several express buses on the Tallinn-Narva route, which, instead of going along the main highway, pass through Kiviõli and make a stop there.

There is no bus station in Kiviõli. There are several bus stops at once in different parts of the city. Most intercity buses stop either at Viru station (on the street of the same name next to a small field), or at Keskpuiestee (also on the street of the same name, in the heart of the city, where the main shops are located), or at all stops that are on the way (if it is any some bus with a short route, say, to Jõhvi); but still, it is better to check this information either on the schedule website, or at least with the bus driver. You can find a bus and buy a ticket on this website, or consult a list of all bus routes in Estonia.

Get around

It is unlikely that you will need any additional transport at all when moving around Kiviõli, the city itself is small. You can walk from the Koksovy Gory to the center in 15-20 minutes. Line number bus, which runs three times a day on weekdays and Saturdays, connects the central part of the city with the private sector on the opposite side of the railway, including the Kytteiyu area. 

See

• 1 Shale mines and museum, Kohtla-Nõmme, ☏ +372 3324017, info@kaevandusmuuseum.ee. 11:00–19:00. (updated Oct 2017)
• 2 Mount Vana-Tuhamägi (Vana tuhamägi). Old Koksovaya Mountain is completely covered with vegetation, so you will not immediately notice that this elevation is artificial. You can climb the mountain via a steep path that starts with a rusty iron staircase at the parking lot, or along a race track, which is longer but more comfortable. From the top of Vana-Tuhamägi, there is a beautiful view of the local landscape and the city with its huge factory. In good weather, the Gulf of Finland is also perfectly visible. The mountain is a centre of sports tourism all year round, hosting motor racing, cycling and winter sports events. From the side of the tourist center, a 2.5-km-long health trail goes around the mountain.   
• 3 Mount Uus-Tuhamägi (Uus tuhamägi). According to some estimates, the highest artificial mountain in the Baltics. Unlike the old one, the new Tuhamägi is not intended for tourists and is not so overgrown, but can be seen from afar already at the entrance to the city, being very close to the plant.   
• The grave of Kalevipoeg (in the forest 7 km south of Kuremäe; 2-3 times a day, mostly on weekends, a bus runs from Jõhvi to Agusalu; in the rest of the time, you will have to search for appropriate transport starting from Kuremäe). The legendary hero of the Estonian epic poetry fought somewhere in these local forests. There was a rumour that in the tomb of Kalevipoeg unimaginable treasures are hidden. So, cunning seekers turn over a lot of soil in the surrounding forests and thereby damaging the Iron Age burials. So, the actual grave is probably lost forever. Hence, on one of these places and a symbolic stone was. 
• 4 Church of St. Clara (Püha Klaara Kirik), Vabaduse puiestee 3. A beautiful Catholic church, but by no means an old one, and it is open only during services that are held in Polish and Russian. 
• 5 Church of the Intercession of the Holy Mother of God (Jumalaema Kaitsmise Kirik), Piiri 2. It was built in the 20th century as a Catholic church, but in 1940, when wooden prayer houses were taken away from the Orthodox and Lutherans, it began to be used by the Orthodox and Lutherans for worship. In 1999, the Lutheran community left the church, and it became fully Orthodox. On June 22, 1995 the church was consecrated by the Archbishop of Tallinn and All Estonia Cornelius. 

Castles and manors

Beautiful Purtse Castle

• 6 Purtse Castle (Purtse vasalinnus) (it is difficult to get here by bus, but you can take an intercity bus stopping at the Purtse stop, the turn off the road #1 to the left onto Route 119, passing several kilometres; but it is easier to go there by your own car). Summer: M–Th 11:00–20:00, F Sa 11–21:00, Su 11:00–18:00; winter: only on weekends. Unlike all other neighbourhoods, this castle really deserves your visit. Built in 1421, the manor was turned into a real castle in 1533. It belonged, besides others, to Henrik Fleming, Jacob von Thauve – who the castle, Berend von Tobe, and Jacob de la Gardi. The castle was burned and consequently rebuilt several times. During the Northern War, some of its towers were destroyed. Afterwards, it became property of the von Stackelbergs, who combined it with the Püssi manor. After Estonia's independence, the castle became public property, but was destroyed by the 1950s. Between 1987-1990, under the guidance of Madi Nappa, the architect of Inna Comoni and doctor of the University of Turku Willem Raam, the ancient building was fully restored. And in 1991, it was recognized as the best Estonian building.
  For visiting there are two floors available with stone stairs and rather unremarkable interior. The atmospheric restaurant on the ground floor serves original dishes in a medieval style. Quite unexpectedly exquisite for such a remote location, and thus not inexpensive (€5-6 per soup, ~€15 for hot dishes). FB. €1. (updated Oct 2017)
• 7 Maidla Manor (Maidla mõis), Mõisa 1, Maidla. The village is also very old, first mentioned in 1241. However, the only evidence of it is the manor. Although, the first mentioning of the manor dates back to 1465, the present Baroque building was erected between 1764-1767 by the architect Djurshmidta (Durschmidt). Since 1925, it has been operated as a school. So, it is not worth to get inside. But take pictures from the outside unlimitedly – the building is very beautiful.  
• 8 Erra Manor (Erra mõis), Puiestee 13, Erra (in the village of Erra just north of Kiviõli, by foot or by car). This manor was built in 1547 and belonged first to the von Essen, and afterwards to the von Courcelles. In the 1980s and 1990s, the building was completely destroyed and looted. Now, only dull ruins remains.  
• 9 Püssi Manor (Püssi mõis), Kiviõli tee 23, Lüganuse. The majestic manor is now also owned by the Luganuse School. It consists of two houses formerly for farm labourers, a court house, a barn and a distillery. In addition, there is a small museum in the manor, dedicated to the history of its educational background, which began in the 1920s. 

Do

• 1 Aidu Water Sports Centre (Aidu veespordikeskus) (south of Kiviõli; only really reachable by car; the nearest village is the unremarkable Aidu-Liiva). The former shale quarry has been transformed into an active recreation centre on the water, which includes a rowing channel for paid canoeing, the only such site in Estonian, independent rowing and diving. Everything must be ordered in advance. Sometimes, there are rowing competitions here. 

Sleep

• 1 Tuhamäe Hostel, Mäepealse tee 2, Kiviõli (on the very outskirts of Kiviõli, 50 m from the slopes of the Kiviõli Adventure Tourism Centre), ☏ +372 55575556, info@tuhamaehostel.com. The furniture in the rooms is quite decent. There are showers, windows and balconies, from which you can see the Cossack mountains. Single for €32.