Kohunlich
Kohunlich is a large Mayan archaeological site in the Mexican Caribbean coastal state of Quintana Roo. It is a lightly visited site where visitors can take their time to explore and contemplate the site's long-forgotten mysteries.
Understand
editHistory
editThe site was settled about 200 BC with most of the structures dating from about 600 to 900 AD. It was once a major city that probably served as a regional trade center with connections to the inland sites such as Calakmul and coastal sites such as Tulum.
The site was abandoned by the time of the Spanish conquest and had been forgotten until 1969 when looters came upon the site. A local elder alerted authorities who investigated and began efforts to explore and protect the ruins.
Landscape
editThe archaeological site covers about 9 hectares and is surrounded by dense tropical rainforest. About 200 mounds cover additional structures that have yet to be excavated and restored.
Flora and fauna
editThe surrounding rainforest is home to about 200 species of birds, many migratory species that are only seen seasonally. About 50 mammal species can be found here including several monkeys, like the saraguatos monkeys (howlers) as well as jungle cats like jaguars and pumas. A number of reptiles inhabit the forest including several venomous snakes and a large number of iguanas.
Climate
editThis is a rainforest with hot, humid conditions throughout most of the year. The wettest time of year is the "rainy season" which runs from about May through August. During this period short rainstorms will occur almost daily but will pass quickly leaving most of the day particularly humid. The driest and most temperate period is from December to April.
Get in
editDriving in the Yucatán Peninsula is very easy and is a convenient way to visit Mayan sites on your own schedule. ADO buses and combis are also available. Tour guides can be hired in Chetumal for day trips to the site (expect to pay M$1500-2500); tours may be combined with a visit to Dzibanche.
By car
editFrom Chetumal, drive west on federal highway MEX-186 for 70 km. In the village of Francisco Villa, turn left on the Kohunlich access road. The entrance to the archaeological site is about 7 km from the main road. It is about a 90-minute drive.
From Xpujil, drive east on MEX-186 for about 70 km to the village of Francisco Villa, then turn right onto the Kohunlich access road for 7 km. It is about a 90-minute drive.
By bus
editAutobuses Unidos (AU) and Autobuses Sur Mexico both operate several buses per day between Chetumal and Xpujil. Neither company has a scheduled stop in Francisco Villa but drivers may be willing to stop to let you off. There are also combis on the route and these are very likely to stop to let you off (and maybe even to stop and pick you up for a trip back).
Fees and permits
editThe site is open daily from 08:00 to 17:00. It will take about 2 to 3 hours to explore the ruins. Local Mayan guides are available for hire at the site entrance, though most do not speak English.
Admission costs M$85 per adult. An additional fee is charged for video cameras (though today, everyone uses cell phones to record videos so it's harder for such policies to be enforced). Admission is free on Sundays for Mexican citizens.
Get around
edit
Walk. Sturdy, comfortable shoes are recommended since paths have rocks and exposed tree roots and you'll probably want to climb on some of the temples (where permitted).
See
edit
- Temple of the Masks: The temple was likely built around 500 AD to honor the sun god, Kinich Ahau. It is a large pyramid with a central stairway lined with eight mask-like sculptures representing the lineage of the sun god and all facing west towards the setting sun. The markings in the eyes of the sun god mask represent a cosmogram which aligns to the cardinal directions. The mask is symbolic of the sun's daily journey across the earth. Additional relief sculptures depict jaguars accompanying the god on his journey. Later additions to the temple (built about 700 AD) provided a protective covering that preserved the remarkable detail of the sculptures, but little remains of that addition.
- Palace: the main palace is built around a central courtyard
- Acropolis: large platform that once housed residential or administrative buildings
- Central Plaza
Do
edit- explore the ruins
- Birdwatch: almost 200 species of birds can be spotted in the jungles around Kohunlich
Buy
editThere are a few small stores in the village of Francisco Villa, mostly selling snacks or household items for the local community. There are no touristic shops nearby.
Eat
edit- 1 Pollos y Costillas Asados "Amanda", Carr. Chetumal-Escaragega KM 58, ☏ +52 983 139 3775. W-Su 10:00 - 18:00, closed M Tu. Casual roadside grill serving barbecue chicken and ribs. M$150.
Drink
editSleep
edit- 1 Hotel Maype, Carretera Chetumal-Escarcega KM 60, Francisco Villa, ☏ +52 983 839 7970. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Budget hotel with spacious, clean rooms. Hammocks available. M$800.
- 2 The Explorean Kohunlich, Carretera Chetumal-Escarcega KM 56, ☏ +52 983 689 0042. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Moderate hotel with private villas available. All-inclusive meal plans available. Swimming pool and onsite activities. M$5000.
Stay safe
editThe area is in the jungle and insects (particularly mosquitos) abound. Some insects may carry malaria or other diseases, so it would be wise to apply insect repellant that contains DEET.
Many of the temples and other structures are in cleared areas that lack natural shade. Because the sun can be particularly intense in the Yucatán, take steps to protect yourself and limit exposure to direct sun. Wear a hat and use sunblock.
Venomous reptiles and insects live in the surrounding jungles. Be careful where you step and where you put your hands. Stay on the marked paths.