Kumasi

Kumasi is the main city of Ashanti-Kwahu region of Ghana. It is a vibrant city and the cultural cradle of Ghana. Kumasi is famous for its vast Kejetia market, the largest in West Africa, and for the traditional Asante buildings of the region, which are on the UNESCO World Heritage list.

Understand

Kumasi was established by the King Osei Tutu I with guidance from the priest Okomfo Anokye. The city is the home of the Ashanti King, Otumfuo Osei Tutu II (as of 2023), to whom Ashantis from all walks of life pay homage. The king presides over the traditional courts that some residents use instead of the official judicial system.

Prior to the British colonisation, Kumasi was the capital of the Ashanti Empire, one of the great civilisations of Africa. Once one of the most impressive pre-colonial cities in Africa, it was largely destroyed by the British in a series of wars at the end of the 19th century. Little remains today of its former glory.

The city has a population of over 3.3 million. The local language is predominantly Akan Twi.

Get in

Kumasi is a cosmopolitan city with a good road network and one can travel on local buses which ply predetermined routes or charter/hire taxis to take one to his preferred destination.

By plane

Flights from Accra to Kumasi are about 45 minutes long, limited on luggage allowance. Excellent way to get to Kumasi, preferred by most. Small planes, yet short trip.

By train

In 2019, the government signed an agreement to restore railway service to Kumasi from Accra in 2022, and also plans to restore service from Takoradi.

By car

Car rental in Kumasi is available at the lowest cost of about US$75-100 per day.

By bus

To travel by road to Kumasi from Accra you will need to allow 6 hours travel time. The STC bus service does not seem to be running anymore, or very sporadically; however private bus companies like VIP Jeoun (a Korean company) have taken over this route. Price is 25 cedis for a very comfortable and luxury bus (every row contains three seats; two on one side and one on the other), or 16 cedis for regular touring bus (4 seats in each row).

Get around

The tro-tro station in the city centre offers the widest range of destinations. The disadvantage of this tro-tro station is that it is extremely chaotic and that it is right in the city centre: getting out of the city is often problematic due to a plethora of traffic jams. If you can't find your tro-tro, ask one of the tro-tro mates or one of the ticket sellers. The destinations are posted on signs above the bus station.

Another alternative is to catch a tro-tro from the ring road instead. This saves you the hassle of navigating through the Kumasi traffic jams.

See

Ghana Armed Forces Museum

• 1 Kumasi Zoological Garden, ☏ +233 24 534 2317. 09:00–17:00. All of the animals from the former Accra Zoo were transferred here a couple years ago, so there is now more to see. (updated Feb 2020)
• 2 Kejetia Market, Kejetia Road, ☏ +233 24 607 6903. Largest market in West Africa, with subsections selling clothes, fabrics, home goods, and most anything else including hot meals. The new enclosed market centre is laid out in grids, but the surrounding streets are more crowded and lined with vendors. Can be loud and overwhelming or a rewarding, local experience; use your own judgement. (updated Nov 2024)
• 3 Okomfo Anokye Sword Site, Stewart Ave, on grounds of Okomfo Anokye Teaching Hospital, ☏ +233 27 747 3288. 09:00–17:00. The legendary site of the foundation of the Ashanti Empire in Kumasi in 1701, where the 'immovable' sword driven into the ground by Okomfo Anokye remains. (updated Aug 2020)
• 4 St. Peter's Cathedral, Roman Hill, Kumasi, ☏ +233 24 576 6518. A Kumasi landmark, next to the Kejetia Market, built in 1913. (updated Aug 2020)
• 5 Wesley Methodist Cathedral/Man Standing On A Lion Statue, 5 Denkyemenaso Rd (in the centre of Adum, 2 blocks S of Kejetia Market), ☏ +233 24 583 8016. M–Sa 8:30–17:30. This cathedral has been a long-standing feature in Adum. It is said that the missionaries who came to plant the church were killed by lions, and that the statue of a man standing on a lion in front of the church is testament of victory over that or something like that. (updated Aug 2020)

Museums

• 6 Manhyia Palace Museum, ☏ +233 27 883 4354. Daily 09:00–17:00. Built in 1925 by the British as the residence of King Asantehene Prempeh I, this museum is also a palace. Walking through the museum, you will learn about the function of each room when it was used by the kings, as well as seeing artwork and artefacts from the Asante kings.  
• 7 Prempeh II Jubilee Museum, ☏ +233 5122822. M–F 09:00–17:00; Sa Su 10:00–16:00. Features artefacts and personal belongings of former Asante kings including a reproduction of the golden stool. (updated Feb 2020)
• 8 Ghana Armed Forces Museum/Kumasi Fort, 22 Steward Ave, ☏ +233 5123103. Tu–Sa 09:00–17:00. The museum buildings is housed in the Kumasi Fort, built by the British in 1896 after they destroyed the Asante Fort that originally stood here. The museum predominantly features information and artefacts related to the British-Asante War, but also includes many artefacts from World War I, World War II, and information about modern Ghanaian military history. Tour guides are friendly and very knowledgeable. Highly recommended. (updated Feb 2020)
• 9 Nurom Hat Museum. A collection of some 2,000 hats from around the world belonging to Chief Nana Kofi Gyemfi II at the top of the Nurom Hotel, but it may no longer be open. (updated Feb 2020)

Do

• A tour of the Palace grounds explains the history of the Ashanti people and the significance of the Ashanti cultural history.
• 1 Lake Bosumtwi (take Lake Rd SW for about 35 km from Kumasi, may take about 1 hour). This is the only natural lake in Ghana and interestingly created by a meteor impact. It has very lush and green surroundings, being 8 km in diameter and 82 metres (270 ft) deep, although the water quality itself may not be that clean. It is a sacred lake, as Ashanti believe it is where departed souls come to bid farewell to goddess Asase Ya. It can be reached by tro-tro or private taxis. The private taxi price should be about 50 cedis (September 2013). Lodging available at Paradise Resort. Do not go to the tourist information center "Jakad" in Abono, the town you will most likely be dropped off at, it is just a guy trying to extract 200 cedis through a community donation scam (December 2023). (updated Aug 2020)
• 2 Owabi Wildlife Sanctuary (30-45 minutes NW of Kumasi: go west on Sunyani Rd, then NW on IPT Rd to Owabi), ☏ +233 30 240 1210. M–F 08:00–16:00. Sanctuary with about 161 bird species, and butterflies, antelope, bushbuck, bushpig, and monkeys. The only inland Ramsar site in Ghana. Guided walks can be arranged at the visitor centre. The Bamboo Temple is very pretty and worthwhile. It can be reached by tro-tro to Esaase or Owabi tro-tro stops. From the Esasie tro-tro stop it is a walk of about 1–2 km, or else get a private taxi. May want to call to confirm price/location. GH₵6; guided walk available. (updated Aug 2020)

Adae Kese Festival

The Adae Kese Festival is a very important, albeit rare, celebration of the Ashanti's. It is held in a large open space in Kumasi. The festival is normally well attended and embraced by Ashanti's from all walks of life. The Adae Kese celebrations are magnified forms of Sunday Adae festivals, celebrated every six weeks in accordance with the Akan calendar which is based on a cycle of 42 days and nine months in a year. Invariably, the last Akwasidae festival is set aside for the celebration of Adae Kese.The public celebrations take the form of a colourful durbar of chiefs and queen mothers presided over by the Asantehene. It involves the display of cherished regalia and paraphernalia accompanied by traditional drumming and dancing as well as firing of musketry amidst pomp and pageantry.

The Adae festival is a continuous demonstration of faith in the vision and heritage of the Asante Kingdom, which has existed since the introduction of the Golden Stool in 1700. The festival is also to commemorate and re-enforce the independence of the Ashanti people and an occasion to re-affirm each state's loyalty to the confederacy instituted in the aftermath of the Ashanti war of independence fought against the Denkyeras between 1697–1699. It provides a platform for the King to meet and share his thoughts with his sub-chiefs and subjects and also reward deserving ones.

Buy

Kente fabric strips, glass beads, Ashanti sandals, batik – pretty much everything under the sun at the Kejetia Market.

• 1 Ntonso Adinkra Village, ☏ +233 54 345 4505. M–Sa 06:00–17:00. This is a craft workshop where you can take tours but also especially buy authentic Ghanaian products like adrinka clothing and kente cloth. (updated Aug 2020)

Eat

The Noble House Hotel serves excellent Indian and Chinese food. Prices are higher than the average Ghanaian restaurant: expect to pay GH₵30–40 for a curry, some rice and a drink. Noble House has the same owners as the Heritage Restaurant in Osu, Accra. Other options with local cuisine include: African Pot and Grill and Mukyia Delight Cafe & Restaurant.

For an unforgettable dinner, try Maame Serwaa Chop Bar. They serve fufu with fish soup and you eat it with yours hands. Of course only Ghanaians eat here. You eat alfresco in a quiet road.

• 1 Friends Gardens. Tasty local African dishes. (updated Aug 2020)
• 2 Moti Mahal, Top Martins Complex, ☏ +233 32 202 9698. Daily 12:00–15:00, 18:30–23:00. Indian cuisine. (updated Aug 2020)
• 3 Ike's Cafe and Grill, Ghana National Cultural Centre, ☏ +233 50 311 3110. Local and intercontinental. Good but not cheap. (updated Aug 2020)

Drink

Vic Baboo's (Prempeh II Rd) is not the most atmospheric place in town, but it had an impressive cocktail menu. It is a place to meet backpackers, expats and volunteers. The menu features a variety of different Indian, Chinese, Continental, and fast food dishes. The lassi and milkshakes are especially good, staff are friendly and it has a homely atmosphere.

Sleep

Budget

• 1 TUMI Hostel, Four junction, Kumasi. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. An atmospheric, well-furnished, hostel, where you can usually meet many other travellers. The price includes breakfast, and dinner is another $6. The hostel funds the TUMI Foundation for women's empowerment; clothes and accessories can be bought on location. $12. (updated Aug 2023)

Mid-range

• 2 Mikaddo City Inn, Mikaddo Plaza, Adum (on 4th Floor) (2 blocks S of Kejetia Market on Apimpua Rd), ☏ +233 54 844 6012. Contemporary lodging with wifi, laundry, breakfast, a/c, parking in the craziness of Kumasi centre. ~US$37. (updated Aug 2020)
• 3 Vienna City Kumasi (Roses Guest House), No. 4 Harper Rd (S of downtown, near Rattray Park and Royal Golf Club), ☏ +233 32 202 3500. Sort of outlying hotel location with laundry, restaurant, pub (smoky), casino, billiards, Wi-Fi. Gated. US$43. (updated Aug 2020)
• 4 Four Villages Inn, ☏ +233 32 202 2682. (updated May 2016)

Splurge

• 5 Lancaster Kumasi City, Rain Tree Street, Lesley Opoku-Ware Drive (3 km from Kejetia Mkt; near junction of Harper Rd and Victoria Opuku-Ware Rd), ☏ +233 24 434 0220. Full amenities: Wi-Fi, a/c, pool, bar, restaurant, buffet breakfast, gym, room service, airport shuttle, security cameras, conference room, tennis courts. Pool and grounds and dining room are very nice. ~US$110. (updated Aug 2020)
• 6 Royal Lamerta Hotel, ☏ +233 32 204 1200. (updated May 2016)

Stay safe

There are safe guides in hotels. Be mindful of pickpockets at the Kejetia Market.