Laon

Centre of Laon, with the cathedral Notre-Dame of Laon in background

Laon is a city in the Aisne département of Hauts-de-France, in northern France.

Get in

By car, take interchange number 13 on the A26 motorway (from Calais to Reims)

There are regular train services from Paris, leaving from Gare du Nord. As of July 2012, prices from Paris to Laon average about €23 one way (second class). The way to Laon from Paris is covered in 1½ hours. There are also regular trains from Reims, or Amiens. The train station in Laon is in the new town, at the foot of the medieval city which is on top of a hill.

• 1 Laon railway station (Gare de Laon), Place des droits de l'Homme. (updated Nov 2019)

Get around

Walking from the new town to the medieval part of the city is certainly doable, but only if you're fit and don't have heavy luggage with you—the 300 ft climb is a steep one. If you're driving, park in the new town, as there is very little parking available in the medieval Haute Ville.

2 tul (the bus service for the Laon agglomeration). tul operates half a dozen bus routes in Laon. A ticket, valid for an hour of travel, costs €1.20. The main hubs (pôles d'échanges) are Gare (in the low town to the north) and Claudel (to the west of the high town). During the summer there are frequent services from Monday to Saturday. There are also services on Sundays and public holidays but they are significantly reduced. Line 1 runs between Gare and Claudel around the south side of town. Its route passes Foch which is the best stop for Camping La Chênaie. Line 4 runs more directly between Gare and the medieval town. (updated Aug 2024)

See

Two of the oxen at the northwest tower of Notre-Dame Cathedral

• 1 Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Laon. The fine early Gothic Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Laon is one of the finest in France, with openwork towers and a four-storey nave elevation. Its architecture influenced many other medieval European cathedrals, including that of Notre Dame in Paris. The interior is extremely light and spacious. The west towers feature an octagonal top storey with square turrets at the angles on top of the square bottom storey. They are decorated with the figures of 16 oxen, said to commemorate a miraculous ox that appeared to pull a cartload of stone to the hilltop site. 
• 2 Hotel Dieu. Near to the cathedral are the Hotel Dieu (medieval hospital and almshouse), the cathedral chapter, and the town's museum. The museum in particular has a fine collection of classical antiquities, and the striking 'transi' tomb (showing the effigy of a decaying corpse) of 14th-century clergyman and royal physician Guillaume de Harcigny. 
• 3 abbey of Saint-Martin-de-Laon. At the other end of the medieval town from the cathedral, the remains of the abbey of Saint-Martin-de-Laon include its church and some of its associated buildings, including the cloister garden (now the city library's courtyard) and some of the chapter house. 
• 4 Templar Chapel. In the museum's grounds. A fine 12th-century octagonal, newly renovated, chapel. (updated Sep 2018)

It's worthwhile taking a walk around the old town, admiring the houses—almost all built between the 12th and the late 18th centuries—and the spectacular view from the town walls out across the Picard plain or hills.

Do

Climb the cathedral tower. The tourist office (very warm welcome), in a twelfth century building next to the cathedral, arranges tours, and it is best to reserve your tickets before time as numbers are limited.

Visit the underground (see in tourist office)

Walk in the medieval city, marvellous.

Walk around the walls for views over the surrounding countrysie.

Buy

Pave de Laon sweet pastilles.

A famous local cheese: Le Maroilles. Strong and tasty.

Eat

Gothic stained glass windows in the Cathedral

• 1 Les Arcades, 6 Rue du Bourg. An undated review said, "Les Arcades (place du Général Leclerc) is centrally located and good for people watching, but over-priced and the food isn't great. The service was also pretty indifferent." Current searches suggest that Les Arcades has since closed. (updated Aug 2024)
• 2 Restaurant Le Parvis, 3 Place du Parvis Gaultier de Mortagne. An undated review said, "Restaurant Le Parvis's main selling point is its location—sitting outside. You can have your meal while looking up at the cathedral. The service is better than Les Arcades but still a little distracted." (updated Aug 2024)

Drink

Brasserie Le Parvis (outdoor)

Also close to the cathedral in a pedestrian plaza called "Marché aux herbes": Créperie Agora (outdoor)

Sleep

• 1 Hotel-Restaurant de la Banniere de France, 11 rue franklin roosevelt. Hotel-Restaurant de la Banniere de France is just behind the Hotel de Ville in the historic centre of the city. Old and cosy hotel, appreciated by English travellers. (updated Aug 2024)
• 2 Hotel des Chevaliers, 3 Rue Serurier. The Hotel des Chevaliers, on the rue des Seruriers just beside the Hotel de Ville (town hall) is good for the budget traveller. The upstairs rooms have been tastefully renovated; the rooms on the first floor are in a little bit of a 1970s time warp but all are comfortable and spotlessly clean. The owner is very friendly, lots of good suggestions for places to go. (updated Aug 2024)
• 3 La Maison des 3 Rois, 17 Rue Saint Martin. A cosy B&B: La Maison des 3 Rois Chambres d'hôtes, 17 rue St Martin, near the historic centre (updated Aug 2024)
• 4 Camping «La Chênaie», Allée de la Chênaie, ☏ +33 323 23 38 63, contact.camping.laon@gmail.com. A very peaceful camp site under oak trees. There are sanitary blocks and some pitches have electricity. There is a small bar at reception and a very tiny shop. The easiest way into town is by bus (Line 1 from Foch to Claudel). (updated Aug 2024)

Modern hotels also, but not in historic city: Campanile, Ibis, Ibis Budget, Hotel Saint Vincent, Première classe, Fasthotel. You need a car.

Go next

Little beautiful villages, around south of Laon: Bruyeres, Nouvion le Vineux, Presles, Urcel (old churches), or Bourgignon (village of the LeNain brothers, both painters)