Likoma Island
Likoma Island, along with its sister Chizumulu Island, is in the Mozambican territorial waters of Lake Malawi/Nyasa. Both Likoma Island and Chizumulu belong to Malawi.
Understand
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Electricity is provided by a generator and a solar bank. This affords the island 24-hour electricity, with the exception of 1-5 minutes at around 22ː00, while they switch the power source.
Get in
editBy plane
editBy boat
edit- 2 Ferry terminal.
- Ilala ferry. The (in)famous Ilala ferry serves Likoma island twice a weekː going northboundː arrives from Nkhota Kota on Saturday at 14ː30 (7 hr) and leaves to Nkhata Bay at 18ː00 (7 hr) stopping at Chizumulu Island on the way; going southboundː arrives from Nkhata Bay on Tuesday at 05ː00 (7 hr), stopping at Chizumulu Island on the way, and leaves to Nkhota Kota at 09ː00 (7 hr). Those timetables are subject to change at any time. Expect many hours of delay. At Likoma, the ferry does not go close to the harbour, so you have to change to a small boat (1000 K). The boarding of people and goods is hectic and both are squeezed into every possible space. Cabins must be booked well in advance although some passengers, once on shipboard, manage to rent a cabin from crew members at the last minute (bring a sleeping bag liner). Bring warm clothes for the upper desk which gets cold at night. From/to Nkhota Kota, cabinː 14 650 K, upper deckː 8950 K, second classː 5700 K; from/to Nkhata Bay, cabinː 11 000 K, upper deckː 7600 K, second classː 4100 K.
- Likoma Express, ☏ +265 995 83 60 38, reservations@likoma-express.com. A much more expensive and comfortable option than the Ilala. It runs between Likoma and Nkhata Bay or Ngala Beach in 3 hr about 3 times a week and picks you up at the beach in front of your lodge. Check schedules and bookings on their website for precise timetables. Malawi resident/Internationalː 170 000 K one way, Malawi citizenː 130 000 K one way.
- Lemani boat (Lamani). Departs from Likoma to Nkhata Bay on Wednesdays and Saturdays at 08ː00, departs from Nkhata Bay to Likoma on Mondays and Thursdays at 03ː00 (approximately; can change at any time). This boat is said to be even less comfortable than Ilala with people and goods completely cramped. 3000 K.
- Boat from/to Cobué, Mozambique. A smaller boat runs every day from/to Cobué in Mozambique. Ask the harbour for timetables and price.
Get around
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A moto-taxi ride from the ferry terminal to the western coast should cost around 3000 K.
You can also hike and cross the entire island in a couple of hours.
See
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- 1 St. Peter's Cathedral (400 m north-west of the ferry terminal). Dates back from early 1900s. The building with an adjacent cloister is surprisingly big for this small island.
The security guards will propose you to climb the tower for the panoramic views. - 2 Viewpoint (300 m north-west of Kaya Mawa lodge; look for stone stairs). Rocky promontory equipped with stone seat and table, offering a panoramic view of the South coast and Mozambique.
- 3 Ringing Rock (north-west peninsula of the island, 300 m north-west of Likoma Secondary School, 1 km north of Ulisa Bay Lodge, on the boulder beach). Concave boulder which rings like a bell when hit by a stone. The self-proclaimed "guardians" of the rock from the nearby village will guide you and ask you 5000 K for their community.
- 4 Ndomo House. Richly decorated luxury private house owned by Green Safaris. Sometimes rented by groups, the house can only be visited when there are no guests.
- 5 Fudwe Museum. Small museum with few artifacts and explanations. As of August 2024, the museum is undergoing a refurbishing and should be completed within the next months.
Do
edit- Hiking.
- Canoeing.
- Snorkelling. At the north-east end of the main island, the small 1 Maingano island snorkelling spot is one of the best places to see colourful fish.
- Scuba diving.
Buy
edit- 1 Katundu Home Decors (next to Ndomo House), info@katundu.com. Workshop producing ethically handmade home decors from recycled glass, clay beads, seed, copper and employing single mothers with sustainable income.
Eat
editMain staple foods on the Island are cassava and maize. Maize is mainly imported from Malawi mainland and Mozambique since the Island is not a conducive environment for such crop. Traditionally, people on the Island eat nsima prepared from cassava flour and maize flour. Fish is the main source of income and many people venture into fish selling. Fishing is mostly done by using locally dugout canoes and small boats. The commonly ate fish are usipa, utaka, and many other different species.
Drink
editTap water is available as well as bottled water. The choice rests on the an individual on what to drink in terms of water. A traditional sweet non-alcoholic drink called mahewu or maheu is available in different flavours to suit your choice.
Alcohol is sold in most parts of the Island and ranges from traditionally brewed gin (local gin called Kachasu and Masese) to factory brewed Calsberg beer and Chibuku. Masese and Chibuke are brewed from maize products. Malawi Gin and Powers No. 1 are also top on the list of visitors who date Malawi.
Sleep
editBudget / Midrange
edit- 1 Mango Drift Lodge (south-western coast), ☏ +265 999 746 122. Situated along a southwest facing beach, the lodge gets great sunsets. There are a number of thatched chalets along the beach, as well as a dormitory and camping facilities. There is an on-site restaurant serving a full range, including pizzas from a wood burning pizza oven. Bar under a mango tree, and a pool table. Snorkelling gear and canoes freely available. Bike rental. 5-hour boat tripː US$120 to share between 4-8 pp. A full PADI dive centre is also on-site, offering fun dives and all courses, from discover scuba diving up to Divemaster. Camping US$15, dormː US$19. Doubleː US$50.
- 2 Ulisa Bay Lodge (north-western coast), ☏ +265 994 748707, ulisabaylodge@gmail.com. Restaurant on terrace facing the lake and the sunset. The owner created the Ulisa Bay Pottery where you can learn and make your own pottery. Standard chalet (2 p) shared bathroom w/ breakfastː US$62, dormː US$9, campingː US$6.
- 3 Chiponde Beach Resort, Chiponde (southeastern tip of the island, 2 km south of the aerodrome), ☏ +265 990 358 459. Family chalet (4 p) ensuite w/ breakfastː US$60, small chalet (2 p) ensuite w/ breakfastː US$45, treehouse (2 p)ː US$15, camping (tent not provided)ː US$10.
- 4 Sunrise Inn, Mbamba (MV Ilala/flight from Lilongwe/boat from Nkhata Bay), ☏ +265 888546919. Locally owned and established. Built on rocks, sitting over the lake, facing Mozambique. Stunning views and incredible opportunities for birdwatching, snorkelling, boating and riding in local dugout canoes.
Splurge
edit- 5 Pure Likoma, Nkhwazi Village (south coast). Double En Suiteː US$200, Superior Doubleː US$250.
- 6 Kaya Mawa (south coast). Owned by Green Safaris. Luxury units with highly decorated bedrooms, bath next to a window facing the lake, private deck on the lake, bar, restaurant (must be booked in advance if you are not sleeping there), bikes, quad bikes, scuba dives available, boutique with souvenirs. Standard rooms start at US$200, most luxurious units cost up to US$500-600.
Go next
edit- Chizumulu Island
- Cobué, the closest town on the coast of Mozambique