Mexcaltitán

Island of Mexcaltitan

Mexcaltitán, also known as Mexcaltitán de Uribe, is a very old island settlement in Nayarit that may be the original home of the Mexica (and other Nahuatl-speaking peoples). Mexcaltitán has been designated as one of Mexico's Pueblos Magicos, despite having a population of only 818 in 2010, usually considered too small to support tourism.

Understand

Aztec mythology holds that the Mexica people left their ancestral home of Aztlan in the year 1091 AD to embark on a journey to find a new place to live. They were to look for a sign from the gods, who would show them an eagle sitting on a cactus eating a snake. In 1325, they found that symbol and founded Tenochtitlan, the island in the Valley of Mexico that would become their capital, and eventually, Mexico City. Most historians accepted the story as mythology, but a few dug deeper to try to determine if the oral history had a factual basis.

In the 1880s, archaeologist and historian Alfredo Chavero put forth the suggestion that Aztlan did exist and that it might be the island of Mexcaltitlan. In the 1960s, that idea began to get more traction as historians did not find evidence that would negate the theory (but neither did they find conclusive proof that Chavero had been right). Today, the subject remains a lively topic of conversation when Mexican historians get together over a few tequilas.

Mexcaltitan is an island in the Laguna Grande de Mexcaltitan. It is a shallow lake that is mostly mangrove swamp in the area near Mexcaltitan. The island is very low and prone to localized flooding during the rainy season.

Get in

Mexcaltitlan is not particularly easy to reach and is likely to require a bit of flexibility and perseverence. The easiest way is probably to take a bus to Villa Hidalgo (Autobuses Orizaba runs one bus per day from Tepic), getting to Embarcadero la Batanga, and hiring a boat to take you to the island. On a nice day, it's an enjoyable 15-minute ride in the boat through mangrove swamps and channels to get to the island.

Getting there on your own is likely to require good Spanish skills and knowledge of backroad travel in Mexico. The road is basically a straight shot and it's in pretty good condition. Embarcadero la Batanga is to the south of the island and is at the end of the road from Villa Hidalgo, there is free parking if you drove (it is customary to tip the parking lot watchman). Several boat operators are available to take you whenever you want to go. The going rate is M$170 one-way or M$350 round trip, that's per boat, not per passenger. There are also collective boats that go at established times and cost less, assuming a group wants to go. These are cheaper, but you often have to wait a long time before one is ready to go.

Less adventurous tourists can sometimes find guided tours available from San Blas. Just pay their fee and let the guide worry about how to get there and back. A one-day trip is sufficient for most visitors. There are two docks used to drop off and pick up passengers. The docks are used either for boats arriving from Embarcadero Batanga or the other, smaller docks to the northwest of the island. To catch a ride back to the mainland, return to the same dock you arrived at.

• 1 Dock, J.Ma. Morelos (western side of the island, outside Venecia). Dock where some ferry boats drop off and pick up passengers. (updated Jun 2023)
• 2 Dock, Benito Juarez (south end of island, outside Venecia). Dock used by some ferry boats. (updated Jun 2023)

Get around

Walk. It's a small island, the city has a ring road with an interior grid layout with just 2 main north-south streets and 2 main east-west streets. It's easy to navigate and nothing is further than a few blocks. The town is small and everyone knows where everything is located so street numbers or complicated addresses are not used.

If you don't like walking, I hope you can crawl, because you won't find taxis here (or any vehicles at all). The roads are solely pedestrian walkways, making the town a joy to stroll through. All the residents have boats though and small docks ring the island. If you're carrying luggage, there are porters with bikes or hand carts at the ferry dock that will take things to the hotel for you.

See

1 Museo del Orígen, Benito Juarez. 09:00 - 18:00. Small but utterly fascinating museum for Mexicans and anyone trying to understand Mexicanidad. The museum features a number of sculptures, pottery, artworks and other artifacts uncovered in archaeological investigations of the island. Exhibits document the Mexica folk stories of Aztlán and the 3-century-long migration to Tenochtitlan. donation. 

2 Plaza Central, Miguel Hidalgo. The town's zocalo, or main square, is a tidy, well manicured park with wide walkways, park benches, and a central gazebo. 

3 Parroquia de San Pedro Apóstol (St Peter the Apostle Church), Miguel Hidalgo (in the center of town, adjacent to Plaza Central). Main church for the town, it's very small for a parish church (more like the size of a chapel) but has colonial charm and is quite picturesque with its frequently repainted exterior and unpretentious interior. 

4 Parroquia de Sans Pedro y Pablo (Church of St Peter and Paul), Miguel Hidalgo (at the end of Hidalgo on the lake shore). Second church for the town, similar in size and appearance to the other, but located near the lake. 

Do

Walk the town, eat at one of the restaurants, sit in the zocalo, repeat.

Eat

Shrimp are caught in the lake and several islanders make their living catching shrimp and selling it to other islanders as well as the handful of local restaurants. Every restaurant in town features shrimp on the menu.

• 1 La Alberca, Porfirio Diaz (east side of island, outside Venecio). Super casual outdoor dining area, specializes in seafood, which in Mexcaltitan means mostly shrimp. Even the meatballs are shrimp balls here. Quesadills with shrimp were winners as were the shrimp tamales. Good drinks and enjoyable waterfront atmosphere. (updated Jun 2023)
• 2 La Camichina, Porfirio Diaz (west side of island, outside Venecia), ☏ +52 323 235 6003. 09:00 - 18:00. Seafood restaurant specializing in shrimp. The shrimp soup is excellent. House specialty is pescado zarandeado, cooked over wood fire. Sunset views in the afternoon. (updated Jun 2023)
• 3 Sandro, Venecia. Seafood restaurant specializing in shrimp. Large shrimp cocktails. Pescado zarandeado is a taste of local cuisine. Shrimp tacos are delicious and affordable. (updated Jun 2023)
• 4 Xochilt, Benito Juarez (south side of island, outside Venecia), ☏ +52 323 235 6116. Traditional Mexican fare, some without shrimp. (updated Jun 2023)

Drink

There are no bars on the island, but all restaurants serve beer.

Sleep

• 1 Hotel Ruta Azteca, Venecia, ☏ +52 323 235 6020. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Older, time-worn property with basic rooms. (updated Jun 2023)
• 2 Hotel La Gran Tenochtitlan, Venecia at Benito Juarez, ☏ +52 323 235 6203. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Basic accomodations. (updated Jun 2023)

Go next

• San Blas
• Tepic