Montreuil-sur-Mer

Montreuil-sur-Mer (or Montreuil until 31 December 2022) is an historic walled town in Hauts-de-France in France. It is located on a hill, with the ramparts giving good views of the surrounding countryside. It is famous as the location that inspired Victor Hugo to write Les Miserables. Montreuil-sur-Mer was the headquarters (GHQ) for the British Army during the First World War from March 1916 to April 1919. A statue of Field-Marshal Sir Douglas Haig on horseback commemorating his stay in the town can be found outside the theatre in the Place Charles de Gaulle.

Understand

Montreuil's moniker of sur-Mer hints at its past status as a port town. While it has never been on the seafront, the river Canche was wider and deeper until the late Middle Ages, permitting seagoing vessels to use Montreuil as a harbour. After this period, the Canche silted up and Montreuil became fully landlocked. The river's port is now further downstream at Étaples.

Get in

By car

Originally a stop on the main Paris to Calais road, the N1 now bypasses the town. If arriving via the A16, leave at exits 25 or 26. There are car parks in the centre of town but they are likely to be full at popular times.

See

• 1 Citadelle. 16th century citadelle on the north-western side of the town. Best seen in good weather.. €7.5. (updated May 2024)

Do

• La chocolaterie de Beussent Lachelle, 66 route de Desvres, Beussent (11 km north of Montreuil; take the D150 to Estrée, then the D127 to Beussent itself.), ☏ +33-3-21-86-17-62. You can tour the artisanal chocolate workshop at Beussent and learn the secrets of chocolate-making in an entertaining presentation, with a free sample included, before purchasing (slightly pricey but delicious!) chocolates from the on-site shop. €2.80 pp for a group tour. 

Walk along the ramparts that surround the town. There is no fence or other protective barrier along the edge of the ramparts, so this walk is best done when it is light and not after a few glasses of wine. Explore the cobbled streets and squares within the town.

Buy

Shops are located around the market square, Place de General de Gaulle. Market on Saturday.