Haidhausen

Haidhausen is a residential and night life area of Munich, about 2 km east of city centre on the east bank of the river Isar. It comprises the boroughs of Au-Haidhausen, Alt-Bogenhausen and Untergiesing. This page also describes the party zone of Werksviertel, just beyond the railway tracks in the next borough of Berg am Laim.

Understand

The ridge on the east bank of the Isar was industrial from the Middle Ages, with brickworks using the local clay. However settlement remained small until the 19th century, when the city sucked in a labour force that had previously worked on the land, and public transport meant that people could live beyond walking distance from their work. The Gründerzeit was an economic boom time across Germany, from the 1840s to the crash of 1873.

Haidhausen, first documented in 808 AD, was a quarter for day labourers and craftsmen outside the city walls and gates. It was incorporated into the city of Munich in 1854, along with Au a riverside tract further south. The railway arrived in 1871 and the area northwest of Ostbahnhof station was developed as the "French Quarter", a stately lattice of streets and circles with French names. Many of the buildings of that era were destroyed by Allied bombing during World War II, and replaced in a variety of styles. Today, Au-Haidhausen is a popular residential district, and has a high density of bars and clubs.

Alt-Bogenhausen further northwest was little damaged during the war, so it has more historic houses with higher property prices.

Untergiesing, incorporated into Munich along with its northern neighbours, used to be a working-class neighbourhood. Its main attractions nowadays are the parkland banks of the Isar, where people on warm summer evenings relax and drink beer.

Werksviertel southeast of the railway is a party zone on an industrial scale, where former factories have been converted into clubs, discos and bars. It's actually in the adjoining district of Berg am Laim, part of east Munich, but it's convenient to describe it on this page.

Get in

By train

Mainline trains converge on Hauptbahnhof from all parts of Germany and beyond, so you normally change there for S- and U-Bahn trains into Haidhausen.

However trains from Austria and Hungary stop at Ostbahnhof on their way to Hauptbahnhof. These all stop in Salzburg on the border, and crossing Bavaria the regional trains stop at Freilassing, Teisendorf, Trauenstein, Bergen (Oberbay), Übersee, Bernau a Chiemsee, Prien am Chiemsee, Bad Endorf and Rosenheim.

1 Ostbahnhof (East Station) is the transport hub for this district. The main entrance is southwest on Orleansplatz, which is the local bus station. You can also access from the northeast on Friedenstraße via the pedestrian tunnel. At least until 2026, there is local disruption as the new S-Bahn tunnel is built, but station access and facilities are unchanged.

S-Bahn suburban trains: most lines pass through Ostbahnhof. From the airport take S8, which runs twice an hour taking 33 min and continues to city centre then out southwest to Herrsching. S1 takes 50 min from the airport as it goes first to city centre then comes out east to terminate here.

2 Rosenheimer Platz 500 m west of Ostbahnhof is a stop for the cross-town S-Bahn lines and may be more convenient for the Au-riverbank part of the district.

S1, S2, S3, S4, S6, S7 and S8 all run via Hauptbahnhof, Altstadt and Rosenheimer Platz to Ostbahnhof. S3 and S7 there turn south to Sankt-Martin-Straße and Giesing then Holzkirchen or Kreuzstraße. S2, S4, S6 and S8 continue east to Leuchtenbergring, where S8 heads north to the airport, S2 goes northeast to Erding, and S4 and S6 go southeast to Zorneding or Ebersberg.

U-Bahn underground trains:

•  U1  skims the south of this district, running via Hauptbahnhof, Sendlinger Tor and Frauenhoferstraße to Kolumbusplatz and Candidplatz then Mangfallplatz.
•  U2  and  U7  take the same route from Hauptbahnhof to Kolumbusplatz, and continue east to Silberhornstraße, Karl-Preis-Platz, Untersbergstraße and Giesing. U2 goes out to Messe trade fair grounds.
•  U4  and  U5  run east via Karlsplatz (Stachus), Odeonsplatz and Lehel to cross the river to Max-Weber-Platz (the tram hub, see below). U4 turns north across Alt-Bogenhausen to Prinzregentenplatz, Böhmerwaldplatz, Richard-Strauss-Straße and Arabellapark. U5 turns south to Ostbahnhof and Neuperlach.

By tram

"Gründerzeit"-style building in Haidhausen

3 Max-Weber-Platz rather than Ostbahnhof is where local tram lines converge.

• Lines 19 and 21 cross the city east-west, and are your likeliest route of arrival, as they run through Hauptbahnhof. They make five stops in Altstadt-Lehel, then cross the river to Maximilianeum (not to be confused with Maxmonument the previous stop) and Max-Weber-Platz. Line 19 continues east to Berg-am-Laim while Line 21 trends southeast to Ostbahnhof and St-Veit-Straße.
• Line 37 comes from the northeast at St Emmeram to Effnerplatz then via Villa Stuck to Max-Weber-Platz.
• Line 25 comes from the south at Grünwald via Ostfriedhof, Regerplatz, Rosenheimer Platz and Wörthstraße to Max-Weber-Platz.
• Two other lines from city centre clip the edge of the district: Line 16 via Maxmonument and Lehel to Effnerplatz further north, and Line 18 via Eduard-Schmid-Straße, Mariahilfplatz, Ostfriedhof and St-Martins-Platz to Schwanseestraße further south.

By road

It's not difficult to get here by car, outside of rush hour, the major problem is parking. Street parking is limited to residents with permits. For a day trip, use one of the Park & Ride lots signposted from the approach highways - these have good U-Bahn connections.

Haidhausen is within easy cycling distance of other Munich districts and many streets have bike lanes, but the gradients up from the river bridges are steep.

Get around

Most places of interest are in the triangle bounded by Ludwigsbrücke west, Maximiliansplatz north and Ostbahnhof east, so walking is usually the best option.

Use the tram for outlying places, and consider using trams and U-Bahn lines through Lehel on the west bank of the river then re-crossing on foot. All of Haidhausen is within the M inner city travel zone, see Munich#Get around for fares and rules.

See

Maximilianeum

• 1 Angel of Peace (Friedensengel) marks the entrance to Bogenhausen district as Prinzregentenstraße crosses the river from Lehel. She's a 6 m statue atop a 38 m column, erected in 1896 to celebrate 25 years of peace since the Franco-Prussian War of 1870/71. The small temple at the foot of the column depicts German and Bavarian rulers. The angel took a nose-dive in 1981 but was repaired. Bus 100 crosses the bridge.
• Maximiliansanlagen is the park flanking the river, south of the Angel upstream to Maximiliansbrücke and Prater island, and north downstream to Max-Joseph-Brücke. You can't swim here as the river bank is too steep. Tram 37 runs a block or two inland along Ismaninger Straße.
• 2 Museum Villa Stuck, Prinzregentenstraße 60 (Tram 16: Friedensengel/Villa Stuck), ☏ +49 89 455 5510. Tu-Su 11:00-18:00. Franz von Stuck (1863-1928) was a painter and sculptor best known for his renditions of mythological scenes. From 1897 he designed this neo-classical mansion. There's a permanent display of his own works plus changing exhibitions of other artists. Adult €9, concession €4.50, under 18 free. (updated Nov 2022)
• Möhlstraße is the handsome street coursing north from Europaplatz by Villa Stuck to Montgelasstraße. It's a well-preserved ensemble of 30 mansions built at the end of the 19th century, and Munich's most expensive neighbourhood. Tram 37 runs a block further east.
• 3 Friedhof Bogenhausen, Bogenhauser Kirchplatz 1 (Tram 18: Mauerkircherstraße). Daily 07:00-20:00. You need to be influential to earn a plot in this small cemetery. Those that did so include film producer Bernd Eichinger, director Rainer Werner Fassbinder, writer Oskar Maria Graf and writer Erich Kästner. It's by the attractive church of St Georg. (updated Nov 2022)
• 4 St Gabriel at Versailler Straße 20 was built in 1922 when this parish separated from Haidhausen. It has an Italianate tower.

Orpheus strums for the beasts at Villa Stuck

• 5 Maximilianeum, Max-Planck-Straße 1 (Tram 19: Maxmilianeum). This is the grand sort-of Renaissance building closing the vista across the Maximilian Bridge, with the road and tramway dividing around it. It was built in fits and starts from 1857 to 1874, the problem being the steep riverbank site for such a heavy structure. Originally a foundation for gifted students, it was bombed in World War II, and since rebuilding in 1949 has housed the Bavarian parliament. They pay rent to the foundation, which continues to award scholarships and lodge students here. The rear (east) of the building is a jumble of modern additions. There's a gallery to watch parliament plenary sessions (by advance registration), but you can't otherwise go inside. (updated Nov 2022)
• 6 Haidhauser District Museum, Kirchenstraße 24 (U-Bahn U4, U5: Max-Weber-Platz), ☏ +49 89 448 5292. Su 14:00-17:00, M-W 17:00-1900. Small display of life in the neighbourhood. Exhibitions have varying hours and prices. (updated Nov 2022)
• Üblacker-Häusl 200 m south of the museum at Preysingstraße 58 was a day-labourer's hostel and is run by the museum. It's open W Th 17:00-19:00, F Su 10:00-12:00.
• 7 St Johann Baptist (Tram: Max-Weber-Platz) is a hefty neo-Gothic RC church. It was mostly complete by 1858 with the towers added in 1870 - the west tower is 97 m tall. It was bombed in wartime but rebuilt.
• 8 Old St Johann Baptist on Kirchenstraße 39 is the 16th century building it replaced, still in use.
• Potato Museum just south of Ostbahnhof has been closed since 2016, with no news on re-opening. So visitors continue to pass by unaware of the potato's profound contribution to artistic and cultural history, not least because it was all the artists could afford to eat.
• 9 Bavarian Public Observatory Munich (Bayerische Volkssternwarte München), Rosenheimer Straße 145H (S- & U-Bahn: Ostbahnhof), ☏ +49 89 406239. Sep-Mar: M-F 20:00-21:30, Apr-Aug: M-F 21:00-23:00. The observatory is open to the public M-F after dark with 2-hour tours - Monday these are in English. Pick a clear night. Adult €8, concession €5. (updated Nov 2022)
• Medienbrücke is the odd structure jutting out above Rosenheimer Straße on the IVG Business Park just north of the Observatory. It's an events venue.
• 10 St Nikolai is a charming 13th century church at Innere Wiener Straße 1. It served a leprosy hospital, long gone, and is nowadays a Ukrainian Orthodox church. The Loretto Chapel was added in 1678, demolished in 1820 then rebuilt.
• Sudetendeutsches Museum, Hochstraße 10 (S- & U-Bahn: Isartor), ☏ +49 89 480 00337. Tu-Su 10:00-18:00. The Sudeten Germans were settled for over 1000 years in Bohemia, making up a quarter of the population. This led to ethnic tensions and was the pretext for Hitler's invasions of the 1930s. Post-war they were expelled to Germany and Austria. This museum in a striking modern building tells their story, with signage also in Czech and English. Adult €5, concession €3.50, child free, Sunday €1. (updated Nov 2022)
• Deutsche Museum fills the large river island reached by Ludwigsbrücke, but see Isarvorstadt for description.
• 11 Mariahilfkirche (Tram 18: Mariahilfplatz) is a large redbrick neo-Gothic RC church. It's a rebuild of 1951, considerably altered from the 1830s original lost to bombing.

Medienbrücke

• 12 Eastern Cemetery (Ostfriedhof), St.Martins-Platz 1 (Tram 15, 17, 25: Ostfriedhof). Daily 08:00-18:00. This was laid out from 1817 and is still in use, so it holds a large cast of city notables. These include Duke Ludwig Wilhelm in Bavaria (1831-1920), Bernhard von Guden (1824-1886) doctor to King Ludwig II and found dead with him in unexplained circumstances, Rudolph Moshammer (1940-2005) the celebrity fashion designer strangled by a sex pick-up, and Hjalmar Schacht (1877-1970) the Weimar financier. During the Third Reich, the grave of Kurt Eisner was destroyed, while the crematorium disposed of the bodies of many thousand opponents or victims of the regime. After the war and Nuremberg Trials, it likewise disposed of ten of those hanged for their deeds (von Ribbentrop, Keitel, Kaltenbrunner, Rosenburg, Frank, Frick, Streicher, Sauckel, Jodl, Seyss-Inquart) and of Göring who committed suicide. Their ashes were thrown in the Isar. (updated Nov 2022)
• 13 Holy Cross Church (Heilig-Kreuz-Kirche), Gietlstraße 2 (U-Bahn U2, U7: Silberhornstraße), ☏ +49 89 693 65880. Daily 09:00-19:00. Gothic Revival RC church built 1866 to 1886. It was unharmed by wartime bombing and, sitting atop a hill, its 95-m bell tower is visible from afar. (updated Nov 2022)
• 14 Rose Garden on Sachsenstraße is in full bloom in June and July. It's open daily to 21:00, free.
• Flaucher south of the rose garden is an extensive park along the banks and river islands of the Isar, see Munich/South-West#See.
• 15 Technisches Rathaus at Friedenstraße 40 is the city council's technical and engineering department. So you can only go within on business, but the striking 63 m high glass and steel exterior is worth a look. The public can also enter the "Courtyard in the Wind", as draughty as it promises, where a wind turbine slowly rotates a disc.
• 16 Ten Towers on Dingolfinger Straße (S- & U-Bahn: Ostbahnhof) are five pairs of high rises joined by bridges. They're corporate offices.

Do

The Hi-Sky Wheel

• 1 Boulderwelt München Ost, Hanne-Hiob-Straße 4 (S- & U-Bahn: Ostbahnhof), ☏ +49 89 452 34823, kontakt@boulderwelt-muenchen-ost.de. Daily 07:00-23:00. In this large bouldering hall you can test your climbing skills without a harness on 13 different courses. It also has a competition wall, 3 child courses, a bistro, and an outdoor course with slackline park and beer garden in summer. Adult €13.90, M–F before 16:00 €10.90. (updated Nov 2022)
• 2 Hi-Sky Munich (Umadum), Atelierstraße 11 (next to Werksviertel south of S- & U-Bahn: Ostbahnhof), ☏ +49 173 6774435. Tu-Su 12:00–20:00. 80-m ferris wheel giving you a 30 min ride and panorama of Munich and the Alps. Adult €12, concession €9. (updated Nov 2022)
• whiteBOX, Atelierstraße 18 (Next to Werksviertel and Hi-Sky near Ostbahnhof), ☏ +49 89 628 344411. M-W, F 16:00-18:00, Th 16:00-20:00, Sa Su 14:00-18:00. Contemporary art gallery hosting changing exhibitions. Some 30 artists have their ateliers here. (updated Nov 2022)
• Silberfabrik, Elsässer Straße 19 (100 m north of Ostbahnhof), ☏ +49 89 809 98556, kontakt@silberfabrik.com. Tu–Su 14:00–18:00. A screen-printing workshop and creative space which offers silkscreen and t-shirt printing courses. (updated Nov 2022)

Müllers'ches Volksbad

• Cinema: Museum Lichtspiele shows movies in their original language version. It's on Lillienstraße, by the foot of Rosenheimer Straße.
• 3 Müllers'ches Volksbad, Rosenheimer Straße 1 (S-Bahn: S1,S2,S3,S4,S6,S7,S8 Isartor or Rosenheimer Platz), ☏ +49 89 236 15050. Daily 07:30–23:00. Have a swim at this Art Nouveau public indoor pool opened in 1901 - bring your own towel. The sauna is temporarily closed to save heating costs, and the cafe is closed permanently. Adult €5, concession €3.50. (updated Nov 2022)
• 4 Prinzregententheater, Prinzregentenplatz 12 (U-Bahn U4: Prinzregentenplatz), ☏ +49 89 218502. This magnificent Art Nouveau theatre, modelled on the Wagner-Festspielhaus in Bayreuth, houses the Bavarian Drama Academy. The focus of the shows is on opera and musical. (updated Nov 2022)
• 5 Frühlingsanlagen (Tram 17: Eduard-Schmid-Straße) is the riverside park between Reichenbachbrücke and Wittelsbacherbrücke.

whiteBOX art gallery

• Gasteig, Rosenheimer Straße 5 (200 m north of S-Bahn: Rosenheimer Platz). Closed until 2027. This is a large cultural and educational complex overlooking the river - "Gasteig" means a steep climb. It's a modern building completed in 1985 which normally houses the Munich Philharmonic Orchestra, the Richard Strauss Conservatory, the city library and community college, and various festivals. However it's closed 2021-27 for rebuilding, and most functions have re-located to Gasteig HP8 in Sendling district. (updated Nov 2022)
• Football: TSV 1860 München play soccer in 3. Liga, Germany's third tier. Their home ground is Grünwalder Stadion (capacity 15,000) near U-Bahn Candidplatz (U1, U2, U7, U8) - this doesn't meet the stadium requirements of higher tiers so TSV would have to move grounds if promoted. They can only dream of the days when they used to play at Allianz Arena in the north of the city.

Events

• Nockherberg strong beer festival (Salvator-Ausschank auf dem Nockherberg) is held at the Paulaner-Nockherberg beer garden (see below) in Lent, usually over 17 days from mid-March. The Paulaner monks brewed a stronger beer during Lent when their diet was meagre, originally at Neudeck across the river. The event moved here in 1861 when Paulaner Brewery bought the site from banker Georg Nochher, who gave his name to the Nockherberg, a 535 m hill overlooking the Isar. Beer is served M-F 14:00-22:30, Sa Su 11:00-22:30. You won't last a fraction of that time, clue's in the name "strong beer".
• Auer Dult is a market and funfair held three times a year in the square at the foot of Mariahilfkirche. Each fair lasts nine days: Maidult starts on the first Saturday of May, Jakobidult starts on the Saturday after the feast of St James late July to early August, and Kirchweihdult is mid-Oct around the church foundation day, also called Kirchweih or Kermesse. The market is particularly noted for crockery.
• Haidhauser Weihnachtsmarkt is a Christmas Market held on Weißenburger Platz (100 m east of S- & U-Bahn: Rosenheimer Platz). It's daily from 28 Nov to 24 Dec.

Buy

Why TSV no longer play at Allianz Arena

• 1 Daseinstein, Einsteinstraße 130 (S-Bahn: Leuchtenbergring, tram: 15,25,39, free parking for 1 hour), ☏ +49 89 286 43189. M-Sa 07:00-20:00. Shopping centre with Media Markt for electronics, Netto and Edeka supermarkets, a pharmacy, miscellaneous shops and eating places. (updated Nov 2022)
• Kaufring, Orleansplatz 3 (facing Ostbahnhof), ☏ +49 89 458 5540. M-Sa 10:00-19:00. Large department store with fashion, jewellery, books and household supplies. (updated Nov 2022)
• M2 Music 2nd Hand, Rosenheimer Straße 77 (100 m southeast of S-Bahn: Rosenheimer Platz), ☏ +49 89 448 5141, m2music.records@gmail.com. Tu-F 15:00-18:00, Sa 11:00-14:00. One of Munich's oldest second-hand record stores with a huge selection of vinyl and CDs of all genres. Pricey but good quality. (updated Nov 2022)
• MJ Guitars, Pariser Straße 32 (next to Spezlwirtschaft, S- & U-Bahn: Ostbahnhof), ☏ +49 89 483351, shop@mjguitars.de. M-F 11:00–19:00, Sa 11:00-17:00. Well-stocked shop for new and second-hand guitar purchase and repair, helpful knowledgeable staff speak good English. It was founded by the lead guitarist of the hard rock band Scorpions, Matthias Jabs. (updated Nov 2022)
• 2 Monkey Island Records, Steinstraße 67 (S-Bahn: Rosenheimer Platz, U-Bahn: Ostbahnhof), ☏ +49 89 448 7218. M W F 16:00-19:00. This small record store and bar offers rock vinyl. (updated Nov 2022)
• Mono, Breisacher Straße 21 (100 m north of Ostbahnhof), ☏ +49 89 4802614, webmaster@sechzig.de. Th 15:00-20:00, F 15:00-18:30, Sa 11:00-15:00. Longstanding second-hand record store and a place to dig for rare vinyl and CDs from indie to electronic music. (updated Nov 2022)

Eat

Eastern Cemetery at dusk

Budget

• 1 Attentat Griechischer Salat, Zugspitzstraße 10 (U-Bahn U1: Silberhornstraße), ☏ +49 89 856 35381, info@attentatgriechischersalat.com. Daily 17:00-01:00. Modern Greek restaurant serving salads, huge portions. (updated Nov 2022)
• EscoBar, Breisacher Straße 19 (100 m north of S-& U-Bahn: Ostbahnhof), ☏ +49 89 485137. Su-Th 17:00-01:00, F Sa 17:00-03:00. Lively friendly Tex-Mex restaurant near East station. (updated Nov 2022)
• Il Padrino, Kirchenstraße 44 (next to Old St Johann, U-Bahn: U4, U5 Max-Weber-Platz), ☏ +49 89 447 1184, info@ilpadrino.de. Daily 11:30-14:30, 17:30-23:30. Cosy Italian restaurant, good value fare. (updated Nov 2022)
• 2 L'Angolo della Pizza, Breisacher Straße 30 (S-Bahn & U-Bahn: Ostbahnhof), ☏ +49 89 4488979, langolo@online.de. M-F 11:30-14:00, 17:00-23:30, Sa Su 15:00-23:00. Busy place near the station serving Italian staples. (updated Nov 2022)
• Nachtkantine, Grafinger Straße 6 (south side of Werksviertel, see Drink), ☏ +49 89 444 510 84, info@kantine-muenchen.de. 24 hrs. This restaurant, bar and live music venue is in the works canteen of the former Pfanni factory. They serve burgers, pizza and pasta but get poor reviews for quality and service. (updated Nov 2022)
• 3 Henry hat Hunger, Zeppelinstraße 27 (U-Bahn: Fraunhoferstraße), info@henryhathunger.de. M-F 08:00-17:00, Sa Su 09:00-17:00. Bright pleasant cafe with mostly vegetarian dishes. (updated Nov 2022)

Mid-range

Street facade in Haidhausen

• El Perro, Belfortstraße 14 (150 m north of S- & U-Bahn: Ostbahnhof), ☏ +49 89 482553, info@el-perro.de. M-Sa 17:00–01:00. Popular restaurant offering warm and cold tapas, paella and other Spanish specialities and wines. (updated Nov 2022)
• Haidhauser Augustiner, Wörthstraße 34 (200 m northwest of S- & U-Bahn: Ostbanhof), ☏ +49 89 444 89559. Su-Th 11:00-00:00, F Sa 11:00-01:00. Quality trad Bavarian food and drink. (updated Nov 2022)
• Il Cigno, Wörthstraße 39 (200 m northwest of S- & U-Bahn: Ostbahnhof), ☏ +49 89 448 5589. M 17:30-23:00, Tu-Sa 11:30–23:00. Lively Italian, draws a student crowd. (updated Nov 2022)
• 4 Spezlwirtschaft, Pariser Straße 34 (S- & U-Bahn: Ostbahnhof, Tram: 19), ☏ +49 89 449 92999. M-Sa 17:00-01:00, Su 10:00-16:00, 17:00-01:00. Restaurant-bar with trad Bavarian cuisine, but the music is hip-hop. (updated Nov 2022)
• Le Faubourg, Kirchenstraße 5 (50 m south of U-Bahn: Max-Weber-Platz), ☏ +49 89 475533, info@le-faubourg.de. Tu-F 11:30-14:00, 18:00-23:00, Sa 18:00-23:00. Smart French bistro, mixed reviews on whether it lives up to the price. (updated Nov 2022)
• 5 Sushi Cent, Schneckenburgerstraße 31 (U-Bahn: U4 Prinzregentenplatz, Bus: 55,58,100,N53), ☏ +49 89 475834, info@sushi-muenchen.net. M-F 11:30–14:30, 17:30-22:00, Sa Su 17:30-22:00. Excellent for sushi and other Japanese specialities. (updated Nov 2022)
• 6 Tassilo da Sebastiano, Balanstraße 34 (S-Bahn: Rosenheimer Platz), ☏ +49 89 485134. M-F 11:30-15:00, 18:00-00:00, Sa 18:00-00:00. Authentic Italian food and wine at affordable prices. (updated Nov 2022)
• 7 Wirtshaus in der Au, Lilienstraße 51 (S-Bahn: Rosenheimer Platz), ☏ +49 89 448 1400, info@wirtshausinderau.de. M-F 17:00-23:00, Sa Su 10:00-23:00. Great reviews for cuisine and service at this trad restaurant in Au district. (updated Nov 2022)

Splurge

• 8 Käfer-Schänke, Prinzregentenstraße 73 (U-Bahn U4: Prinzregentenplatz), ☏ +49 89 4168247. M-Sa 12:00-00:00. Consistently glowing reviews for this upscale haute cuisine restaurant. (updated Nov 2022)
• 9 Vinaiolo, Steinstraße 42 (S-Bahn: Rosenheimer Platz), ☏ +49 89 489 50356. Su Tu-F 12:00-15:00, 18:30-00:00, Sa 18:30-01:00. Pricey but excellent trattoria in a former pharmacy. Reservations recommended. (updated Nov 2022)
• 10 Gabelspiel, Zehentbauernstraße 20 (U-Bahn U2, U7, U8: Silberhornstraße), ☏ +49 89 122 53940. Tu-Sa 18:30-00:00. Fine French cuisine: go for the wine-pairing. (updated Nov 2022)

Drink

Café Voilà

Cafés

• 1 Café Voilà, Wörthstraße 5 (S- & U-Bahn: Ostbahnhof or Rosenheimer Platz, Tram: 15,19,25 Wörthstraße), ☏ +49 89 489 1654. Daily 08:00-01:00. Long-standing café, bar and restaurant serving Augustiner beer and generous portions of trad food. (updated Nov 2022)
• 2 Café im Hinterhof, Sedanstraße 29 (S- & U-Bahn: Ostbahnhof or Rosenheimer Platz, Tram: 15,19,25 Wörthstraße or Ostbahnhof), ☏ +49 89 448 9964. Daily 08:30-20:00. Hinterhof means courtyard and it's an attractive cafe-bar, with regular piano live music and exhibitions. They offer breakfast / brunch throughout the day and have good cakes. (updated Nov 2022)
• Café Blá, Lilienstraße 34 (opposite Wirtshaus in der Au), ☏ +49 89 122 63037, hello@cafebla.de. M-F 09:00-18:00, Sa Su 10:00-18:00. Just what every metropolis needs, an Icelandic café - Blá means blue. (updated Nov 2022)
• 3 Café Crönlein, Am Nockherberg 8, ☏ +49 89 215 62990, info@croenlein.com. Su Tu 15:00-21:00, M W-Sa 17:00-23:00. Café-bar in a former public restroom, an odd little stone building that looks more like a park attendant's tool shed. There's more capacity in summer when you can sit outside. (updated Nov 2022)
• 4 Café Hüller, Eduard-Schmid-Straße 8 (Tram 17: Eduard-Schmid-Straße, U-Bahn: Fraunhoferstraße), ☏ +49 89 189 38713. Daily 12:00-22:00. An easy-going café with a pleasant outdoor area in fine weather. (updated Nov 2022)

Bars

Container village in Werksviertel

• 5 CCC Container Collective, Atelierstrasse 4 in Werksviertel (S-Bahn S1,S2,S3,S4,S6,S7,S8: Ostbahnhof), info@containercollective.de. Container Collective is a ziggurat of shipping containers on Atelierstraße (corner with Friedenstraße) on the southeast flank of Ostbahnhof, the start of Werksviertel. It's billed as an art space but (in true bohemian style) no artistic work actually gets done and you come for the bars. As of 2022, these are Bar of Bel Air (daily 17:00-22:00), Transit Rooftop & Bar, and Kaserne de Janeiro cafe. (updated Sep 2023)
• 6 Dachgarten auf dem Gasteig, Rosenheimer Str. 5 (S-Bahn S1,S2,S3,S4,S6,S7,S8, Tram 18,23,25: Rosenheimer Platz), info@kulturdachgarten.de. Rooftop bar on top of the cultural center Fat Cat (the former Gasteig) with a great view over the city. On one side you can see the city hall, the Old Peter and the Frauenkirche, on the other side the Werksviertel entertainment district and the mountains. The bar spans two levels on the roof, with timbered wooden walkways running along the upper one - past cozy seating areas, flower beds, bushy plants and herbs. (updated Sep 2023)
• Johannis Café, Johannisplatz 15 (U-Bahn U4, U5 & Tram 15, 16 , 19, 25: Max-Weber-Platz), ☏ +49 89 4801240. Tu W Sa 17:00-03:00, Th F 11:00-03:00. When everywhere else has closed and you're still hungry, this café at the foot of St Johannis church is still serving in the small hours. It draws a motley crowd. (updated Nov 2022)
• Maria Passagne, Steinstraße 42 (U-Bahn U4, U5: Max-Weber-Platz; next to Vinaiolo trattoria), ☏ +49 89 486167. M-Sa 19:00-01:00. No sign and just a bell at the door so you won't find it unless you're specifically looking. Within is a small, dimly lit bar serving cocktails and sushi. (updated Nov 2022)
• 7 MH5 Roof (München Hoch 5), Werk 3 in Werksviertel (S-Bahn S1,S2,S3,S4,S6,S7,S8: Ostbahnhof). This rooftop bar on top of the orange Werk 3 building offers regual events with techno and house DJs, as well as a view on a small herd of Valais black-nosed sheep grazing on the roof. (updated Sep 2023)
• 8 Molly Malone's, Kellerstraße 21 (S-Bahn: Rosenheimer Platz), ☏ +49 89 688 7510. M-F 17:00-00:00, Sa Su 14:00-00:00. Irish pub with nice atmosphere and many expats among the guests. Monday at 21:00 is quiz night. Food is middle-rate, the chips are usually good. Has a big selection of whiskeys and TV sport. (updated Nov 2022)
• 9 Schwarzer Hahn, Ohlmüllerstraße 8 (Tram 17: Eduard-Schmid-Straße), ☏ +49 173 361 9237. Tu-Th 20:00-01:00, F Sa 20:00-03:00. This dive bar (its name means "Black Cock") gathers a crowd from Gärtnerplatz. Beer is bottled, nothing on draft, and they only take cash. (updated Nov 2022)
• Carlito's MINIbar, Ohlmüllerstraße 11 (Tram 17: Eduard-Schmid-Straße), ☏ +49 177 423 24330. This remains closed in 2022. (updated Oct 2022)
• Tap-House, Rosenheimer Straße 108 (S- & U-Bahn: Ostbahnhof; facing Motel One), ☏ +49 89 622 31187, info@tap-house.de. M-Sa 18:00-01:00. This bar at the edge of Haidhausen district offers 200 craft beers from around the world. (updated Nov 2022)
• 10 Vivo!, Lothringer Straße 11 (S- & U-Bahn U5: Ostbahnhof), ☏ +49 89 448 5035, stephan@vivo-muenchen.de. Su-W 18:00-01:00, Th-Sa 18:00-02:00. Bar and late-night eating place; they're aiming for raffish. (updated Nov 2022)

Clubs

Cronlein: once a restroom, now a cafe-bar

• 11 Charlie, Schyrenstraße 8 (U-Bahn U1,U2,U7: Kolumbusplatz), br@charl.ie. Sa 23:00-05:00. Small techno club with a high-grade dj line-up. (updated Nov 2022)
• Crown's Club, IVG Business Park, Rosenheimerstraße 145 H (S-Bahn & U-Bahn: Ostbahnhof; next to Observatory), ☏ +49 160 903 39991. Th 22:00-04:00, Sa 22:00-05:00. Aspires to be exclusive, door policy erratic, fun nightspot if you get in. (updated Nov 2022)
• 12 DNA Club, Atelierstraße 14 (S- & U-Bahn: Ostbahnhof). Techno club in a former industrial location in the Werksviertel district. (updated Nov 2023)
• 13 Gans Woanders, Pilgersheimer Straße 13 (S- & U-Bahn: U1,U2,U7,U8 Kolumbusplatz), ☏ +49 89 245 97785, info@gansamwasser.de. M-Th 10:00-23:00, F Sa 10:00-00:00, Su 10:00-21:00. Cafe, cultural centre and concert venue around a Hansel & Gretel house with a large wooden patio for events - many of these are free. (updated Nov 2022)
• Jazzclub Unterfahrt, Einsteinstraße 42 (100 m east of U-Bahn: Max-Weber-Platz), ☏ +49 89 448 2794. Daily 19:30-01:00. Jazz club in the former cellars of Union Brau. Limited food. (updated Nov 2022)
• 14 Muffatwerk, Zellstraße 4 (S-Bahn: Isartor or Rosenheimer Platz), ☏ +49 89 458 75000. M-F 10:00-18:00. Former electricity plant morphed into a club and music hall with café-bistro. (updated Nov 2022)
• Ampere is a smaller venue within Muffatwerk staging indie rock concerts.
• 15 Werksviertel-Mitte is a vast culture and entertainment complex on the southeast flank of Ostbahnhof. Set up in 1996 on an industrial brownfield site, it was originally called KPO - "Kunstpark Ost". The area is home to several concert halls, theaters, clubs, live music venues, bars, studios, a container village, art workshops, sports facilities and a radio station. Principal venues within the complex include the TonHalle at Atelierstraße 24, the Technikum and the WERK7 at Speicherstraße, as well as the Container Collective art center at Atelierstraße 4.

Beer gardens

• 16 Hofbräukeller beer garden, Innere Wiener Straße 19 (U-Bahn U4, U5 & Tram 15, 16, 19, 25: Max-Weber-Platz), ☏ +49 89 459 9250. Daily 11:00-23:00. Restaurant and 1800-seater beer garden serving Höfbräu beer, not at all like the touristy Hofbräuhaus in city centr. (updated Nov 2022)
• 17 Paulaner am Nockherberg, Hochstraße 77 (Tram 15, 17, 25: Ostfriedhof), ☏ +49 89 459 9130. Tu-Su 12:00-00:00. Attractive 3000-seater beer garden open year-round and serving Paulaner beer. They host a beer festival in March. (updated Nov 2022)
• Muffatwerk beer garden, Zellstraße 4 (Tram 16: Deutsches Museum), ☏ +49 89 458 75073. F Sa 11:00-21:00, Su 12:00-21:0)0. This 400-seater beer garden is part of the Muffatwerk complex, see above. The basic beer is Hofbräu, but they also serve a cloudy organic beer from Lammsbräu. (updated Nov 2022)

Sleep

The old inn on Nockherberg

Budget

• 1 Hotel Christl, Rosenheimer Straße 103 (S-Bahn: Rosenheimer Platz), ☏ +49 89 459 94430, Hotelchristl@t-online.de. Small and cozy hotel, good transport links. B&B double €115. (updated Oct 2022)
• 2 Motel One Munich East Side, Orleansstraße 87 (S-Bahn & U-Bahn: Ostbahnhof), ☏ +49 89 599 76490. Modern and sleek interior with simply decorated rooms. Downstairs is the "One Lounge" with a lobby, breakfast café and bar in one. B&B double €115. (updated Oct 2022)
• 3 Motel One Munich-Haidhausen, Rosenheimer Straße 110 (S-Bahn & U-Bahn: Ostbahnhof), ☏ +49 89 904 21860, muenchen-haidhausen@motel-one.com. Modern hotel at the edge of the Haidhausen district. Downstairs is the living-room style "One Lounge" with lobby, breakfast café and bar in one, and a view onto the street through wall-sized windows. B&B double €115. (updated Oct 2022)
• 4 mk hotel münchen, Einsteinstraße 34, ☏ +49 8723 978 712200. A simple and inexpensive two-star chain hotel. B&B double €130. (updated Oct 2022)
• 5 Motel One München - Deutsches Museum, Rablstraße 2 (S-Bahn: Rosenheimer Platz), ☏ +49 89 444 55580. Another Motel One, 500 m from Deutsches Museum. Comfy and convenient. B&B double €200. (updated Oct 2022)

Mid-range

Auer Dult market by Mariahilf church

• 6 Holiday Inn Munich City Centre, Hochstraße 3 (S-Bahn: Rosenheimer Platz), ☏ +49 89 48030. IHG chain hotel with small indoor pool (no gym), bar, and restaurant. Good breakfast. Directly connected to the S-Bahn via an underground mall. B&B double €190. (updated Oct 2022)
• 7 Hotel Prinz, Hochstraße 45 (Tram 15, 25: Regerplatz), ☏ +49 89 4414080. Pleasant mid-price place, rooms are small but comfy. B&B double €190. (updated Oct 2022)
• 8 Novotel Munich City, Hochstraße 11 (S-Bahn: Rosenheimer Platz), ☏ +49 89 661070. Accor chain hotel with 307 air-conditioned rooms, restaurant and bar with terrace, free spa area with gym, swimming pool, sauna and steam bath, underground parking and a separate conference centre with terrace and 5 modern meeting rooms. B&B double €150. (updated Oct 2022)
• 9 Residence Inn Munich City East, Orleansstraße 81-83 (S-Bahn & U-Bahn: Ostbahnhof), ☏ +49 89 5589250. Marriott chain hotel with fitness center, steam room and sauna, and each room has a kitchenette. B&B double €190. (updated Oct 2022)

Splurge

• 10 Hilton Munich City, Rosenheimer Straße 15 (S-Bahn: Rosenheimer Platz), ☏ +49 89 48040. Well-placed efficient business hotel. B&B double €150. (updated Oct 2022)
• 11 Courtyard by Marriott Munich City East, Orleansstraße 81, ☏ +49 89 5589190. Good chain hotel close to public transport. B&B double €240. (updated Oct 2022)

Connect

As of Oct 2022, the entire city has 5G from all German carriers. Wifi (in German "WLAN") is widely available in public places and on transport.

Go next

• Altstadt starts just west, the city's delightful medieval core.
• Ludwigsvorstadt southwest has the Deutsche Museum of science and technology. Oktoberfest is held on Theresienwiese.
• Eastern Munich has the zoo and Messe the trade fair halls.