Najaf

Najaf is a city in Southern Iraq.

Understand

The city covered by this article, usually referred to outside Iraq as "Najaf", in fact consists of two cities which, over the centuries, have grown until they joined together. These are Najaf, in the west, and Kufa (sometimes spelled Kufah), in the east. Both are considered holy by Shi'a Muslims, containing the graves of various important religious figures. Additionally, many key events in the lives of these figures took place in Najaf and/or Kufa. As such, the vast majority of visitors to Najaf are Shi'a pilgrims (referred to as Zuwwar in Arabic, or Za'ir in the singular), and they usually travel in groups, guided by a religious scholar. Nonetheless, independent travel is now also possible.

Get in

There are several daily flights from the capital Baghdad as well as several cities in Iran with national carrier Iraqi Airways. Additionally, there are a limited number of international flights from hubs such as Istanbul and Dubai.

• 1 Al Najaf International Airport (Southeast of the city centre). (updated Jun 2021)

You can take shared taxis to/from Baghdad, Karbala, and other cities. Shared taxis to/from Karbala are 3,000 IQD (76km one way), to/from Nasiriyah are 15,000 IQD (256km one way), to/from Hillah are 7,500 IQD, and to/from Baghdad are 15,000 IQD (as of October 2022).

• 2 Najaf Northern Garage. This is the garage that north-bound (ex. to Baghdad) shared taxis leave from. (updated Oct 2022)

Get around

Careem (ridesharing app, owned by Uber) is available in Najaf, and takes international credit cards. Note that there are roadblocks around the Imam Ali Mosque which may require a "Careem Old City" service to get past (prices are pretty much the same as the regular Careem services though).

See

View of Imam Ali Shrine.

Najaf is renowned as the site of the Tomb of Alī ibn Abī Tālib also known as "Imām Alī" the First Imam of Shia's, the cousin and son-in-law of the prophet Muhammad whom the Shia consider to be the righteous caliph . The city is now a great center of pilgrimage from throughout the Shi'a Islamic world. It is estimated that only Mecca and Medina receive more Muslim pilgrims. As the burial site of Shia Islam's second most important figure, the Imam Ali Mosque is considered by Shias as the third holiest Islamic site.

The Imam Ali Mosque is housed in a grand structure with a gold gilded dome and many precious objects in the walls. Nearby is the Wadi-us-Salaam cemetery, reputed to be the largest in the world. It contains the tombs of several prophets and many of the devout from around the world aspire to be buried here, to be raised from the dead with Imām Alī on Judgement Day. Over the centuries, numerous hospices, schools, libraries and Sufi convents were built around the shrine to make the city the centre of Shīʻa learning and theology.

The Najaf seminary is one of the most important teaching centres in the Islamic world. Ayatollah Khomeini lectured there from 1964–1978. Many of the leading figures of the new Islamic movement that emerged in Iraq, Iran and Lebanon in the 1970s had studied at Najaf.

The Afghan city of Mazar-e Sharif also has a site which claims to be Ali's tomb and draws many pilgrims, but Najaf's claim is more widely accepted.

• 1 Al-Qadisiyyah (About 60 kilometres south of Najaf). Historical city, infamous as the site of the battle in 636, which saw forces of the Rashidun Caliphate defeat the Persians sent by Rostam Farrokhzad, the dynast of the Sasanian Empire.  
• 2 Great Mosque of Kufa. Aside from its architectural significance, this mosque is historically important as the site of the assassination of Imam Ali, in 661 AD (40 AH). Pilgrims pay their respects at the mihrab (niche facing Mecca) where he was prostrating when he was attacked from behind with a sword. (updated Jun 2024)
• 3 Ruins of Al-Hirah. Ancient city. (updated Jun 2021)
• 4 Najaf Heritage Museum (متحف التراث النجفي). Housed in a historic khan, this heritage museum contains artifacts from rich history of Najaf as well as a special focus on the Iraqi revolt of 1920, a major revolt against British rule due to new land ownership and burial taxes in Najaf. (updated Aug 2021)
• 5 Wadi-us-Salaam (وادي السلام). An Islamic cemetery, it is noted for being the largest cemetery in the world. Famous graves here include those of the Islamic prophets Hud and Salih, Shi'a scholars such as Muhammad Baqir al-Sadr and Allamah Tabatabai, and political/military leaders such as Abu Mahdi al-Muhandis. (updated Jun 2024)

The countryside around Najaf is home to several khans, sometimes also called caravanserais. They were fortified roadside inns built to accommodate travelers overnight. Most of the more impressive ones are located on the historic route between Najaf and Karbala which served as an important trade and religious route.

• 6 Khan al-Nuss. A historic khan, a type of roadside inn, on the road between Najaf and Karbala. (updated Aug 2021)

Buy

Money

In busy areas, independent money changers set up small stands in the street. They usually offer a better exchange rate than "official" locations (such as at airports), and commonly sell local SIM cards as well.

Souvenirs

The usual souvenirs from Najaf are tasbih (prayer beads), turbah (a small piece of clay which Shi'a Muslims prostate upon in prayer), and aqeeq (gemstone) rings. In areas frequented by pilgrims, you will find an abundance of small shops selling these.

Drink

In busy areas of Najaf, there are stands selling small cups of black tea. These may cost as little as 250 Dinars, and can be served with or without sugar.

Sleep

• 1 Al Sahla Land Hotel (فندق ارض السهلة), Al Rasool Rd, ☏ +964 780 007 7770. (updated Feb 2019)
• 2 Zamzam Hotel, ☏ +964 750 908 4475. (updated Mar 2017)
• 3 Qaser AlDeyafa Hotel, ☏ +964 771 001 0010. (updated Mar 2017)
• Qasr AlDur Hotel, ☏ +964 7801019019. Somewhat expensive by Iraqi standards, but the advantage of this hotel is that confirmations printed on its letterhead are definitely accepted at immigration for visas on arrival, whereas some pilgrims have reported problems when trying to use confirmations from smaller hotels. (updated Jun 2024)

Stay safe

See the warning in the Iraq article.

Nonetheless, Najaf is one of the safest cities in Iraq. As the city is almost entirely Shi'a, ISIS and al-Qaeda have never had any popular support here. There is an extensive network of (highly effective) military and police checkpoints to keep out any would-be infiltrators, especially around areas of interest to pilgrims and tourists (such as mosques and shrines). Expect to be patted down several times before entering the inner part of a shrine.

Respect

Najaf is a holy city in Shi'a Islam, and therefore very conservative, even by Middle Eastern standards. Unlike in some of Iraq's more liberal cities, do not bother looking for alcohol here. Women are expected to wear Iranian-style chadors.

Go next

Most visitors to Najaf are Shi'a pilgrims. The pilgrimage to Iraq is called Ziyarah in Arabic, and a "complete" Ziyarah will involve visiting Karbala, Kadhimain (in Baghdad), and Samarra after Najaf, as these are the burial sites of other Imams (the twelve successors of the Prophet Muhammad, in Shi'a Islam). Other, comparatively minor, pilgrimage sites in Iraq include Hillah and Balad.