Pantanos de Centla Biosphere Reserve

Pantanos de Centla is a protected wetlands environment in the state of Tabasco in southern Mexico. It is the largest swamp in North America and encompasses the deltas of both the Usamacinta River and the Grijalva River. Eco-tourists find much to love about the swamps and its hundreds of native species (many endangered), but history buffs might want to visit the site of the former Mayan city of Potonchán, or one of the other 18 Maya sites in the area. Pantanos de Centla is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve and a Ramsar wetland.

Understand

Visitor Center at Pantanos de Centla

The Pantanos de Centla is a very large wetland area, covering 302,706 soggy, heavily forested hectares. It lies almost entirely within Tabasco, but a very small section spans the border of Campeche.

History

For an area that's essentially a huge conservation region, it's got some incredibly important and lively history behind it.

Like every place in the Yucatán Peninsula, the first humans we know to have inhabited the swamps were the Maya. Specifically a group known as the Chontal Maya. You might think they could find a better place to live than a swamp, but they evidently didn't share that view point since they built a big city known as Potonchán. Unlike most Maya cities, it wasn't built of stone, but rather of mud (like the adobe settlements of the north). Potonchon was one of the earliest contact points between the Maya and the Spaniards. Juan de Grijalva was the first to arrive, and he was treated with hospitality when he showed up in 1518. Grijalva must have either spread some serious disease or hit on Chief Tabascoob's wife because when Hernan Cortes showed up a year later he was met by angry warriors ready to kill any Spaniard who stepped ashore. The Spanish kicked butt on the Maya, who abandoned their city.

Landscape

Mangrove swamp in the Pantanos de Centla Biosphere Reserve

Swamps, rivers, and forest are what you'll find here.

Flora and fauna

Among its animal kingdom are jaguars, ocelots, howler monkeys, alligators and lots and lots of green iguanas. The jungle cats are considered endangered, as are manatees living in the rivers and lagoons, white turtles, majestic birds like peregrine falcon and the Jabiru stork (the largest stork in Mexico). 230 bird species have been spotted in the swamps, 63% of which are permanent full-time residents while others come for the winter.

Climate

It's almost always hot and humid in Pantanos of Centla. Except at night, when its dark, hot and humid.

Get in

The best place to access the reserve is from the town of Frontera (this is the town that the Spanish built on the site of the destroyed Maya city of Potonchán). If you want a room for the night or a good meal in a restaurant, Frontera is the place (and pretty much the only choice).

From Villahermosa, ADO, ATS and Cardesa buses go to Frontera. The 1-hour trip costs about M$100.

Once in Frontera, the biosphere's visitor center (Centro de Interpretación Uyotot-Ja) is on the Jonuta Road, 13 kilometers upstream. The visitor center includes an observation tower looking over the confluence of the Grijalva, Usumacinta, and San Pedrito rivers. Boats can be hired here for M$1000 for 2 hours (per boat, not per passenger). A taxi from town to the visitor center should cost about M$100 or you can catch a combi for about M$25.

• 1 Terminal de Autobuses Centla (Bus station), Francisco Madero 216. Pleasant waiting room with benches and rest rooms. 

Fees and permits

There is no fee to visit the biosphere.

Get around

Boats are the way to get around the rivers and swamps. Hire one in Frontera or at the Biosphere's visitor center. Boats are available for hire even when the visitor center is closed. (If you don't like small lanchas, there are sometimes larger boats leaving from Frontera).

• "Three arms" service station and dock. It is the gateway from where you can board the boats that will take you on tourist routes through the narrow canals and mangrove area, and taste typical cuisine of the region in its various restaurants. (updated Dec 2023)

See

• 1 Uyotot-Ja' Interpretation Center, Tabaco—Frontera (Mariche de Marfín). Uyotot-Ja' in Chontal means "House of Water". has three exhibition halls, in which ecological, economic and social values are explained through interactive modules. Also here there is a 20-meter-high viewpoint, from where you can have a majestic view of the reserve and especially of the confluence of the Grijalva, Usumacinta and San Pedrito rivers, which join at the point called "Three arms". The tourist center also has a restaurant and room for events. 

Do

Boat trips

• Nueva Esperanza Route: It is a trip upstream along the Usumacinta until reaching a 6-m-high observation tower, from where you can admire thousands of birds that gather in the region year after year. This tour allows you to explore the mysteries that the swamps hold by taking a cayuco ride along beautiful canals rich in wildlife. You can try typical food from the region while resting on a stilt house.
• San Juanito Route offers a 2-hour tour that will take you through canals where the vegetation is lush. The tour includes crossings along the Usumacinta, Grijalva and San Pedro rivers and at the end of the tour you will be able to taste the typical food of the region in a natural environment.
• Punta Manglar Ecotourism Development: For nature lovers, it is an ideal place for observing flora and fauna, complemented by a boat and typical canoe tour (cayuco) to end with a walk on an interpretive trail among the mangroves guided by specialized personnel. They also offer food services.

Eat

• 1 Muellecito, Esteban Samberino 413, Frontera, ☏ +529133321313. Casual waterfront restaurant with patio dining area serving traditional Mexican cuisine and an assortment of pasta dishes. Well-made cocktails and a scenic location next to the main docks contribute to a fun dining experience. (updated Jan 2024)
• 2 La Choza de los Perez, Av. Principal, Col. San Roman, ☏ +52 913 111 5248. Daily 10:00 - 18:30. Casual waterfront seafood restaurant specializing in Veracruz style recipes. M$200. (updated Jan 2024)

Sleep

Hotels and rustic cabins are available in Fronteras.

Lodging

• 1 Hotel Peninsula, Carratera MEX-180, Frontera, ☏ +52 993 342 4037. Check-in: 13:00, check-out: 12:00. Clean, modern hotel with basic rooms and affordable rates. Excellent secured private parking area. WiFi available. (updated Jan 2024)

Backcountry

Backcountry camping (leave not trace) can be arranged. Inquire at the park office.

Go next

• Isla Aguada
• Paraíso