Paratge Natural d'Interès Nacional de l'Albera

Albera Natural Site (Paratge Natural d'Interès Nacional de l'Albera) is in Costa Brava of Catalonia. It boasts the magnificent Monastery of Sant Quirze de Colera, a jewel of Catalan Romanesque art. This protected area serves as an ecological and scenic haven, showcasing the unique transition from Pyrenean to Mediterranean species.

Understand

The Paratge Natural d'Interès Nacional de l'Albera, situated in the northeastern Alt Empordà region, is a nature reserve encompassing the Albera mountain range. It is divided into Requesens-Baussitges and Sant Quirze de Colera-Balmeta sectors.

The Albera range, acting as the Franco-Spanish border, features prominent peaks like Puig Neulós and Puig dels Pastors, creating a diverse and captivating landscape dominated by Pyrenean metamorphic rocks.

42.3913223.0020291 Main Tourist Office (Centre d'Informació i Oficina), Rectoria Vella c. Amadeu Sudrià, 3 - 17753 Espolla, ☏ +34 972 545 079, pninalbera@gencat.cat. (updated Nov 2023)
42.415832.873932 Tourist office (Centre d'Informació i Exposició permanent), Can Laporta c. Major, 2 - 17700 La Jonquera, ☏ +34 972 555 258. (updated Nov 2023)

History

Paratge Natural d'Interès Nacional de l'Albera

The Albera Range, marked by the Pyrenees' lowest passes, serves as a historical crossroads between European and Iberian cultures. Notably, its southern slopes house Catalonia's significant megalithic monuments, spanning the Middle Neolithic to the Chalcolithic era (3500-1800 BCE). Prominent dolmens like Canadal, Mas Baleta, and the Cabana d'Arqueta, as well as the Castellar menhir, showcase a rich archaeological tapestry. Panissars and Pertús passes, critical ancient routes within Jonquera, reveal the region's strategic importance over time. The Santa Maria de Panissars monastery ruins, on the French border, attest to its medieval role as a wayfarer's hospital, with recent excavations uncovering Roman road remnants and possible trophies of Pompey from the Via Domitia - Via Augusta (1st century BCE).

The Albera region boasts a robust Romanesque heritage from the medieval period, notably represented by the Sant Quirze de Colera Benedictine monastery. Documented since the 10th century, this site features a remarkable basilica, cloister remains, monastic structures, and fortifications. Other architectural gems include the ancient parishes of Sant Martí de Baussitges and Sant Genís d'Esprac, alongside the pre-Romanesque Sant Pere del Pla de l'Arca in Jonquera. The Espolla municipality showcases the beautiful Espolla Castle and the residence of the Marquises of Camps. Rabós features numerous dolmens, complementing its historical and architectural significance. This diverse cultural and historical landscape makes the Albera Range a compelling destination, weaving a narrative of human settlement, cultural exchange, and architectural evolution across millennia.

Landscape

The western sector, primarily composed of two large estates, Requesens and Baussitges, features the wettest and elevated areas with almost 100% forest coverage. The vegetation is remarkably diverse, ranging from lowlands to highlands, encompassing holm oaks, cork oaks, chestnut groves, oak forests, mixed deciduous forests (elder, whitebeam, elm, holly, etc.), and meadows at the summit. Riparian vegetation along the banks of the Anyet and Orlina rivers includes ash, willow, and alder. The eastern sector, Sant Quirze de Colera-Balmeta, has more Mediterranean characteristics, with shrublands, thickets, and holm oaks in lower areas and evergreen oaks in higher regions. The third sector is the foothills of the Albera, known as the Aspres de l'Albera, representing the intermediate zone between the actual mountain range and the Empordà plain. This area features a mosaic of dryland crops, primarily vineyards and olive groves, interspersed with natural vegetation like shrublands and holm oaks.

Flora and fauna

Vegetation

The Requesens-Baussitges sector features the wettest and elevated areas, with almost 100% forest coverage and remarkably diverse vegetation, including holm oaks, cork oaks, chestnut groves, oak forests, beech forests, and alpine meadows at the summit. The Requesens area encompasses the headwaters of the Anyet River with splendid riparian vegetation, including ash, willow, and alder. The Baussitges area includes the high valley of the Orlina River, where populations of easternmost beech trees on the peninsula persist.

The Sant Quirze de Colera-Balmeta sector represents a fully Mediterranean zone, historically impacted by forest fires. The vegetation is dominated by evergreen oaks, shrublands, and thickets.

Fauna

In this area, the last populations of the Mediterranean turtle on the Iberian Peninsula persist. There is a notable variety of other herpetological species (amphibians and reptiles): frogs, snakes, lizards, and more.

Over 200 bird species have been identified. Among fish, the common trout and mountain barbel are noteworthy. The diversity of mammals in the Natural Area and its surrounding area is significant, with 44 species recorded, representing nearly 75% of Catalonia's total mammal species.

The Albera cow is an indigenous, semi-wild breed endemic to the area.

Climate

Get in

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Map of Paratge Natural d'Interès Nacional de l'Albera

The protected area lies between the AP-7 the N-260 and the French border.

By plane

The nearest airports are Girona-Costa Brava (GRO^IATA, in Spain) and Perpignan–Rivesaltes (PGF^IATA, In France)

By railway

Figueres has a high-speed train station, connected to Madrid and Barcelona and also to France High speed trains

Llançà, Colera i Port Bou has a local train station.

By car

From France: The A-9 ( E-15 ) from Montpellier and Perpignan to the Spanish border. Then the AP-7 ( E-15 )until Figueres or La Jonquera
From Barcelona and Girona: The AP-7 ( E-15 ), until Figueres or La Jonquera.
From Figueres take N-260 to Port bou to access the easternmost side.
From Figueres take N-260 and then the GIP-6042 to Peralada , follow GIP-6021 and GIP-6031 to Rabós to access the Sant Quirze de Colera area.
From la Jonquera take GI-601 to Cantallops to access the Recasens area

By boat

There are some ports you can use if you go sailing.

Port Bou
Colera
Llançà

Fees and permits

It's free to enter.

Get around

See

42.416273.058951 Monastery of Sant Quirze de Colera, Camí de Rabós a Vilamaniscle, s/n (The road is not paved.), ☏ +34 972 563 082, ajuntament@rabos.cat. The monastery of Sant Quirze de Colera is a Benedictine abbey in the former county of Empúries, within the boundaries of the Diocese of Girona. It is an architectural complex composed of the Basilica of Sant Quirze, various monastic buildings organized around the courtyard of the cloister, a defensive tower, and remains of a section of the wall. It also includes the church of Santa Maria and the remnants of the old hospital. The monastery is situated about five kilometers away and near the old road to the Coll de Banyuls. (updated Nov 2023)
42.4466252.94442 Requesens Castle (Castell de Requesens). The edifice is characterized by a triple line of walls, with square and rounded towers, portals and merlons. In the lower court is the chapel, including Romanesque elements from original structures of the area, or of French inspiration. Probably existing since the 9th century, the castle is mentioned for the first time in a document from Ponce I, count of Ampurias in the 11th century.In the 19th century, the ruined castle was rebuilt in a neo-medieval style. The castle was extensively used after the Spanish Civil War (1936–1939), when some modern constructions were added to the original structure. (updated Nov 2023)
42.4368782.8840943 Rocabertí castle (Castell de Rocabertí). It is located in the municipality of La Jonquera (Alt Empordà), about 3 km northeast of the town. Perched on a steep, conical granite cliff, it is easily visible from the village at its feet. Only the ruins remain. It is first mentioned in 948, but evidence suggests that it is much older. The strategic position of the fortress, dominating the passes of Portús and Panissars, always made it the target of various interests. (updated Nov 2023)
42.41522.962884 Santa Fe dels Solers Hermitage. It is a pre-Romanesque hermitage located near Mas dels Solers, in the municipal district of Sant Climent Sescebes, Alt Empordà. It is a Romanesque construction with a single nave and a square floor, featuring a trapezoidal apse. The walls are made of stone and mortar, with some sections showing opus spicatum, suggesting that it is a fairly old construction that has been renovated over time. There is no worship, and it is open to the public. (updated Nov 2023)
42.3930633.044145 Sant Quirc i Santa Julita. The church was constructed in the late 18th century (1785) and was financed by Josep de Nouvilas and his son Pere. Its dimensions are quite large in relation to the local population it serves. This is attributed to Nouvilas' intention to establish a new village, Sant Quirc de Colera (not to be confused with the Monastery of Sant Quirze de Colera), around the church and Mas Nouvilas. Similar to the founding of Colera in the late century, it was established in connection with the parish of Sant Miquel de Colera. (updated Nov 2023)
42.3993973.0948926 Sant Miquel de Colera Church. It was the former parish church of the village of Colera in Alt Empordà until it was relocated next to the sea in the 18th century. It is about 7 km to the west of the urban center of Colera via a forest track accessed upon reaching Colera from the Figueres to Portbou road. Definite records of the temple date back to the 11th century. (updated Nov 2023)
42.373.0978617 Sant Silvestre de Valleta. The church is a Romanesque building from the 11th century. From the 11th century until the 17th century, it served as the parish church for the hamlet of Valleta. After centuries of abandonment, popular pressure in the late 20th century led to the reopening of the church for worship, the restoration of its surroundings, the promotion of historical research, and the organization of a gathering that has been held continuously since May 1980. (updated Nov 2023)
42.40273.105158 Castell de Molinàs (about 4 km to the west of the urban centre of Colera, in the Molinàs valley; access is gained through the same forest track that leads to the church of Sant Miquel de Colera.). These are the ruined remains of the castle tower of Molinàs. You can see a rectangular-shaped enclosure, of which two building structures are preserved. (updated Nov 2023)

Megalithic places

42.4256033.1218933 Dolmen de la Font del Ginebró.
42.4304393.1273084 Dolmen del Pic de l'Àliga I.
42.428413.1291285 Dolmen del Pic de l'Àliga II.
42.391843.0878416 Dolmen del Passatge.
42.3916993.0963737 Dolmen de Puig d'Esquers.
42.3906753.1027238 Dolmen del Mas Patiràs.
42.3750443.1158199 Dolmen del Puig Tifell.
42.404933.07677510 Dolmen de Dofines.
42.40253.047511 Menhir del Mas Roquer.
42.4004243.03422112 Dolmen Coma d'en Felis.
42.4263113.03877213 Dolmen del Solà d'en Gibert.
42.4348523.05080814 Dolmen de Comes Llobes dels Pils.
42.4587973.00732215 Dolmen del Mas Gamarús.
42.439442.9816716 Dolmen de la Font del Roure.
42.433332.9833317 Dolmen d'Arreganyats.
42.433892.9891718 Dolmen dels Cantons.
42.426672.9908319 Dolmen de les Morelles.
42.414722.9808320 Menhir del Castellà.
42.417222.9708321 Dolmen del Salt d'en Peió.
42.4097332.96715322 Dolmen de Fontanilles.
42.4317342.9410123 Dolmen del Coll de Medàs I.
42.4314782.94222824 Dolmen del Coll de Medàs II.
42.4314112.94201425 Dolmen del Coll de Medàs III.

Do

Hikinkg: GR 11 (Pyrenees Trail) goes from Higuer Cape in Hondarribia to Cap de Creus in Cap de Creus Natural Park

Local Hikes

Requesens area

I1 - From Cantallops to Requesens, 6 km, 2 hr, medium difficulty.
I2 - Around Requesens Castle, 5.5 km, 2 hr, medium difficulty.
I3 - Faig de la Pedra 9 km, 3 hr, difficult
I4 - Requesens forests, 11.5 km, 5 hr, difficult
I5 - Estanys de la Jonquera, 3.5 km, 1 hr, easy

Sant Quirze de Colera area (see Rabós )

Route 1: Espolla - Sant Quirze de Colera. 2 hr 20 min
Route 2: Rabós - Sant Quiric - Sant Quirze de Colera. 2 hr 45 min
Route 3: Vilamaniscle - Sant Quirze de Colera. 1:45 min
Route 4: Sant Quirze de Colera - Requesens 6 hr 10 min
Route 5: Sant Quirze de Colera, springs, mountainpasses and peaks 3 hr 10 min
Route 6: Old farms in Sant Quirze de Colera

Buy

Eat

Visit the nearby villages like

Le Perthus (France)
La Jonquera
Cantallops
Espolla
Rabós
Peralada
Llançà
Colera
Port Bou

Drink

Sleep

Mountain refuge

42.450593.05371 Refugi del Coll de Banyuls. (updated Nov 2023)
42.47582.9572 Refugi de la Tanyareda. (updated Nov 2023)
42.4497692.9471553 Refugi del Forn de Calç. (updated Nov 2023)

Stay safe

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