Phang Nga

Phang Nga (พังงา) is a town on the Northern Andaman Coast in Thailand. It is the provincial capital of Phang Nga Province.

Understand

Phang Nga is a coastal province on the Andaman Sea with scenic forests and islands. The province offers superb natural beauty both onshore and underwater. Phang Nga is also the name of the city that serves as the provincial capital.

History

Phang Nga was originally inhabited by small communities and named Kraphu-nga. During the reign of King Rama II, nearby areas (including Thalung, now known as Phuket) were occupied by the Burmese and so many people fled to Kraphu-nga. In 1824, Siamese troops defeated the Burmese and the invaders were expelled. King Rama III renamed the area Phang Nga and in 1933 the town was expanded to be a province.

People

Phang Nga is a mix of Buddhists, Thai-Chinese, Muslims and even sea gypsies. The majority of the rural population is Muslim. Phang Nga, however, is free of religious tension and the populace live in peace and harmony. Outside of the provincial town, the rural folk speak with a thick Southern dialect which is difficult for even other Thais to understand.

Given its ethnic mix, Phang Nga is always celebrating something, be it part of Thai Buddhist, Thai-Chinese or Thai-Islamic tradition.

On the small island of Ko Surin is a community of Moken sea gypsies who still live their traditional lives as seafaring people. These sea gypsies speak Yawi dialect and are welcoming to tourists. However, just as is the case of the long-necked Karen in Mae Hong Son, some Moken complain that their village has come to resemble a human zoo with hoards of tourists walking around gawking at the villagers. Nevertheless, there are organised tours from Phang Nga which go there.

Get in

By car

• First route: From Bangkok, take Hwy 4, passing the provinces of Prachuap Khiri Khan, Chumphon, and Ranong, then drive straight to Phang Nga town. It is 788 km from Bangkok. The trip takes around 12 hours.
• Second route: From Bangkok, take Hwy 4 to Chumphon, from there, take Hwy 41 to Amphoe Tha Chang, then go straight to an intersection where a right turn is made to Hwy 401, keep driving to Amphoe Ban Ta Khun for about 50 km, and then take Hwy 415 for 30 km, take a right turn to Phang Nga town.
• Visitors travelling from Phuket should use Hwy 402, passing the Sarasin Bridge to Ban Khok Kloi, take a right turn to Amphoe Takua Thung. It is 87 km from Phuket. The journey takes around 1 hour and 30 minutes.

By plane

There is no airport here. The closest are in Phuket, Krabi, or Surat Thani.

From Krabi airport you do not have to go to the Krabi bus station to get a bus to Phang Nga, as the buses coming from the South pass by the airport on the highway. To catch a bus walk out to the highway (100m), cross over and go about 50m to the right where you will see a yellow shelter on the left side of the road. In May 2015 a bus (big and air conditioned) to the Phang Nga bus station cost 100 baht and passed by at 9:30am after waiting for less than half an hour. Make sure you hail down the bus. Frequency and times unfortunately unknown, so if this sounds too uncertain for you, make your way to the Krabi bus station and get a bus from there (price to Krabi bus station displayed inside the airport was 80 baht).

Thai Airways operates Bangkok-Phuket flights daily. From Phuket, take a bus or rent a car to Phang Nga, about 58 km. For more information, call Thai Airways tel: 1566 or +66 2 2800060, +66 2 6282000 or Phuket office at tel. +66 76 360444.

Bangkok Airways has daily flights connecting Phuket Airport with Pattaya and Ko Samui. For more information, contact their Bangkok office at Tel. +66 2 2655678. Reservations can be made at Tel. +66 2 2655555 or Phuket office Tel. +66 76 225033, +66 76 225034.

Air Asia also offers several daily flights connecting Bangkok and Phuket airport. Call +66 2 5159999 or Phuket office at Tel. +66 76 351428, +66 76 369182 for reservations.

By train

There is no train station here. The nearest train station is Phun Phin, near Surat Thani.

The State Railways of Thailand operates daily train services between Bangkok and Surat Thani. Note that the sleeper trains arrive before dawn. A trip to Phang Nga can be made by getting off at the Surat Thani Railway Station and then taking a bus for another two hours. For more information, call Bangkok's Hualamphong Railway Station tel. 1690, +66 2 2237010, +66 2 2237020.

By bus

Buses from Phuket, Takua Pa and Krabi pass through Phang Nga. During the day there are many buses from the bus station to Phuket, Krabi, Takua Pa, and Surat Thani. In the evening, however, there are few buses, but if you're lucky you might catch a bus on the Phuket-Krabi road. (4 km from the city) The phone number of the bus station is +66 76 412014.

There are daily bus services from Bangkok to Phang Nga. Air-conditioned buses, 3 types, depart from Bangkok's Southern Bus Terminal at the following times:

• VIP Bus: 18:30
• Standard 1 Bus: 19:30
• Standard 2 Bus: 06:30 and 16:00

Travel time is ~12 hours. For more information, call the Southern Bus Terminal at +66 2 4351199200 or the Phang Nga Bus Terminal at Tel: +66 76 412300 or +66 76 412 014.

At the bus station itself, there is a friendly travel agent who will give you a map of the city and area.

By boat

The pier, Tha Dan, is 9 km south of the town.

By taxi

From Phuket there are a variety of taxi and private car-hire services. However, there is a stranglehold on many of these agencies through local "associations" that demand high prices and disallow competition. It is a common complaint that passengers are made to stop at local gem and/or travel agencies allowing the drivers to collect a commission. To avoid this, demand the meter to be turned on or agree to price ahead of time, with no stops. Try to use licensed and certified agencies.

Get around

The most popular form of transport in Phang Nga is the songthaew. To get to and from other districts, there is a public, non-air-conditioned bus service or even cars for rent. For a day out on the islands, there are long-tailed boats for hire.

You can use the songthaews for travel in the city. You can also rent a motorbike at M.T. Tour (Muang Thong Hotel: from the bus station, go to the exit, turn right at the main road, walk 100 m and it's on your left). If you have your own car or motorbike already, you still can go to MT Tour (+66 89 289 2566) to get a free detailed map of the area. In general, everything (tours, accommodation, food) in Phang Nga is cheaper than Phuket. It's not possible to rent a car in Phang Nga, but you can in Khao Lak, Krabi and Phuket.

See

• Heaven and Hell Cave (ถ้ำ้้ตาปาน) (Within the town itself, about 1 km back towards Krabi from the bus station. On Tapan Rd, some 200 m along, is a temple and a cave within easy walking distance). It is patterned after the Hindu tradition which is, to a point, prominent in Thai Buddhism. You will see statues of various gods including Ganesha, as well as virtues like the Three Wise Monkeys. The most prominent feature is the statues of souls suffering in hell. These are very graphic and quite similar in some ways to the medieval Christian images of the same. They cover an area of about an acre. On the way to the cave itself, you will pass to the right of the path, images of a judge and his two scribes who are judging. To the left of the path are two really scared souls with what looks like a potential executioner on either side of them. Some people may consider this rather over the top, but, it is their tradition and religion, so please respect. The cave itself is nothing much. You can climb up the structure on the right (steep steps) and get a really good view of Phang Nga Bay, and the surrounding mountains. Well worth a look. It is suggested that you leave 100 baht at the temple on the way out as an offering in respect of what you have seen. (updated Dec 2018)
• Wat Suwannakhuha (วัดสุวรรณคูหา) It is of historical and archaeological importance. Within the boundary of the temple is a mountain with numerous caves out of which one is also used as a temple and houses various manners of Buddha images. There are also royal monogram inscriptions on the walls of the cave.
• Ko Yao (เกาะยาว) covers an area of 137 square kilometres (34,000 acres). The majority of the population are Muslim. The island is made up of two large islands, Ko Yao Noi and Ko Yao Yai.
• Hat Khao Lak (ชายทะเลเขาหลัก), 32 km (20 mi) from Takua Pa, is a long beach along the Andaman Sea set beneath Khao Lak-Lam Ru National Park, parallel to the coast.
• Wat Rat Uppatham or Wat Bang Riang (วัดราษฎร์อุปถัมภ์ หรือ วัดบางเหรียง) A temple on Khao Lan hill containing several structures including an elaborate bell-shaped pagoda called Chedi Phutthathambanlue. The hilltop pagoda overlooks surrounding mountains and hills as well as a huge Buddha image and a Guan-yin Chinese Goddess statue.
• Kainui Mountain (เขาไข่นุ้ย) A mountain that has cool weather and is surrounded by the sea of mist all year round. In good weather, the Andaman Sea is visible from the summit.
• Ko Phra Thong (เกาะพระทอง), A large island northwest of Phang Nga. The island has many beaches. There is a large fresh water reservoir on the island.
• Ko Panyi a Muslim fishing village on stilts.

Festivals

• Watermelon Day (งานวันแตงโม) is organized every year. There is plenty of watermelon on offer and a food and beauty contest.
• Free The Turtles Fair (ประเพณีปล่อยเต่า) annually at Thai Muang Beach. The celebration takes place for seven days. During the festival baby turtles raised by the Fisheries Department are released into the sea at Thai Mueang Beach.
• Songkran Festival (งานประเพณีสงกรานต์) April merit making ceremonies, a water-pouring ceremony to pay respect to monks and elderly people, and many shows performed by local students.
• The Ma Jor Poh Statue Procession (งานแห่เทพเจ้าศาลเจ้าแม่ม่าจ้อโป๋) It's a yearly ceremony. The statue of Ma Jor Poh is carried on an ancient Chinese carriage around the town along with the weapons of various sacred spirits from the Chinese temple with traditional music played on Chinese musical instruments.
• The Chao Ley (sea gypsy) Boat Floating Festival (งานประเพณีลอยเรือ) It's a ceremony to celebrate the ancestor's spirits (Nia An Lo Pong). Morgan sea gypsies of all kinds join in this ceremony. The ceremony includes spirit dwelling, ancestor worshipping, fortune telling, music performances, dances, and "Kabang" floating which is believed to take away all sickness and bad luck from their families and community.
• The worshiping ceremony of Narayana and his followers (งานบวงสรวงเทวรูปพระนารายณ์และบริวาร) There are also various shops, several forms of entertainment, and activities performed by students.
• Vegetarian Festival (ประเพณีถือศีลกินผัก) The Phang Nga Vegetarian Festival: Similar to the well-known vegetarian festival in Phuket and Trang, this festival is held from the first through the ninth nights of the ninth Chinese lunar month.
• Amazing Phang Nga Festival: High Season Opening in Phang Nga (งานเปิดโลกมหัศจรรย์แดนสวรรค์เมืองพังงา) There is an opening and special events ceremony in Khao Lak. The ceremony features entertainment, cultural shows, an exhibition of tourist attractions, water sports and local sport competitions, local products shops, and seafood from many resorts in Khao Lak.

Do

Phang Nga has a beautiful landscape with many waterfalls, mountains, islands, rivers and hot springs. You can get a good map at M.T. Tour. Phang Nga has also special temples, each one with different characteristics. Attractions near the city are: The elephant mountain (temple), Sanong Manora waterfall, Somdet Phra Srinagarindra Park. Further away are: Namtok Lamru a 5-tiered waterfall, Khao Lak (beaches), Ko Similan National Park (diving & snorkelling), Ko Surin National Park (diving & snorkelling). There are also jungle tours with rafting and temple tours.

Another great thing to do is community-based tourism. Communities around Phang Pga Province are opening up their villages to one day tours and overnight home stays. They usually come at a base price and list everything that will be included in the tour from batik painting to tin mining.

• Similan Dive Center, 13/61 Moo 7 Khao Lak, Khuk Kak, Takuapa (Opposite Bangkok Bank in the centre of Bang La On), ☏ +66 831 761 306, +66 76 490 965, info@similandivecenter.com. Khao Lak's largest dive center offers diving in a friendly atmosphere with an experienced crew. Day trips and daily departing liveaboards to the Similan Islands, Ko Bon, Ko Tachai and Richelieu Rock. (updated Oct 2022)
• Wicked Diving, Khao Lak, 4/37 Moo 7 Khuk Khak, Takuapa (on Rt. 4 in Bang La On, next to Viking Steakhouse), ☏ +66 76 485 868, info@wickeddiving.com. Dive centre run to ethical and environmentally friendly standards. Operating liveaboards on 3- and 5-day expeditions to the Similan and Surin Islands 

Buy

Phang Nga city is not a tourist destination. There are many banks and ATMs in the city, but there are no currency exchange booths. If you have cash, change it before 15:30 on weekdays. There is a Tesco Lotus for all your imported and domestic grocery needs, and a number of pharmacies, including a Boots.

Eat

During the day you can get cheap and delicious meals at the market or at the restaurant in the Muang Thong Hotel. In this hotel it's also possible to have breakfast of eggs, toast, butter & jam. There is a vegetarian restaurant on the main road if you walk south from the bus station. At night it is worth trying the restaurants on the riverside. Tuesdays and Thursdays there is a night market 500 m south of the bus station on the main road. Many guidebooks recommend Duang as a good place to eat. However, as a tourist you will probably pay more than Thais, and Malaysians may have to pay even more than other tourists.

Sleep

There are several hotels throughout the city, although they are all of relatively low standard and rather old. If you plan to see Phang Nga Bay and you want to stay overnight only for that reason you might want to reconsider your choice. In that case it might be better to stay in Phuket, Khao Lak or Krabi and take one of the frequent and inexpensive buses to Phang Nga early in the morning. You will likely get better quality of accommodation at comparable prices that way.

Budget

All of the budget hotels are within 400 m of the bus station so it won't be hard to walk to them. Exit the bus station and turn right.

• Muang Thong Hotel, Petchkasem Rd. Old hotel with free Wi-Fi, TV, air-con, fridge and generally friendly staff. The office for booking tours of Phang Nga Bay is in the same building (MT Tours). 400 baht. 
• Phang Nga Guesthouse, 99/1 Petchkasem Rd, ☏ +66 76 411358. Looks more decent from the outside and the rooms look better than in the other hostels/budget hotels. Rooms have air-con, TV and free Wi-Fi but are smaller than the rooms in other hotels in town. They seem generally cleaner, although slightly moldy. 350-480 baht. 
• Rattanapong Hotel, 111 Petchkasem Rd (on the main road 5 minutes from the bus station next to 7-Eleven), ☏ +66 76 411247. Rooms have free Wi-Fi, TV (Thai channels only), air-con and are clean. Mosquitoes and street noise are problems (May 2015) 450 baht (double room, May 2015). (updated Oct 2022)

Other budget options are Thaweesuk (150 baht), and Lak Muang.

Mid-range

• Phang Nga Inn, 2/2 Soi Lohakit (turn left as you exit the bus station, take the second street on your left--opposite the school. The hotel is about 100 m along on your right), ☏ +66 76 411 963. It's clean, with A/C and TV, and hot water in the shower. 500 baht. 

Splurge

• Phang Nga Villa, Natai Beach beachfront (25 minutes drive north of Phuket airport). 6 bedrooms, 7 bathrooms. The villas are laid out as 3 individual pavilions, each with pool and ocean views, and have a contemporary Thai style. 294,000 to 438,900 baht per week. 

Go next

Phang Nga Bay is famous for its gravity-defying limestone formations. You can go on a tour with Sayan (in the bus station) or MT Tour (in the Muang Thong hotel, 100 m from the bus station). Half-day tours with transfer cost 800 baht as of May 2015 at either operator, bargaining seemed pretty much impossible, you may have better luck trying to get an additional cave added or adjust the itinerary to fit your needs. Full-day tours 1100 baht.

There are frequent buses to Phuket from the bus station, minivans take you to the Phuket Town bus station (old bus station) for 100 baht, while the big buses only go to the new bus station (bus station 2) outside of Phuket Town for 90 baht (May 2015)

Routes through Phang Nga

Bangkok ← Takua Pa ←

N  S

→ Krabi Town → Sadao