Pleven

Pleven (Bulgarian: Плевен) is a city in North Bulgaria, a major economic and industrial hub. The 1877 Siege of Pleven was one of the key battles of Bulgaria's Liberation War, and it's commemorated in various ways throughout the city, most notably by the Pleven Panorama.

Understand

Regional History Museum

The Pleven Panorama

One of the reservoirs in Kaylaka

Pleven is the seventh most populous city in Bulgaria with a bit over 110,000 inhabitants. It is the biggest transportation and industrial centre in North Bulgaria.

The Siege of Pleven (1877)

Pleven was the scene of one of the most important, bloody and protracted battles during the Russo-Turkish War of 1877-1878 (known in Bulgaria as the Liberation War). The Imperial Russian army crossed the Danube at Svishtov, bypassing the "quadrilateral of fortresses" Ruse–Silistra–Varna–Shumen in North-Eastern Bulgaria. Ottoman forces stationed at the Vidin Fortress hurried east to intercept the Russians, making Pleven their new base of operations, even though the town had no pre-existing defences and they had to hastily erect earthen fortifications. The Russian command could not leave such a strong enemy force behind their backs, so they directed the west wing of their forces towards Pleven, while an advance guard struck south to capture and hold key passes in the Balkan Mountains in order to prevent enemy reinforcements from Southern Bulgaria. The fortress held from July until December; frontal assaults proved fruitless (and bloody) even after Romania joined the war and sent help, and Pleven fell only after being completely encircled and all supplies cut off. Afterwards, the Russian army could finally cross the Balkan Mountains and the war was over in March the next year.

Get in

Pleven lies on the Sofia-Varna railway. Trains between Sofia and Ruse, as well as international trains towards Bucharest also stop in the city. Buses between Sofia and Ruse, Bucharest, Svishtov and Silistra also usually make a stop at the bus station in Pleven.

Buses from Sofia depart roughly every hour until 18.00 from the central bus station in Sofia (www.centralnaavtogara.bg) (10-13 лв one way). Advance purchase of tickets is usually not necessary, except during major holidays. There are a few trains from Sofia every day (www.bdz.bg). These are usually slightly slower than the buses but pass through the beautiful Iskar gorge.

To Lovech there are frequent buses from the bus station in Pleven (tel: +359.64.800.122). It is also possible to take the train there (with a change in Levski), but that takes much longer. The trains continue past Lovech to Troyan.

There are trains and buses to Ruse, trains (and no buses) to Varna and all cities on the railway, buses to Veliko Turnovo, Gabrovo, Svishtov, Razgrad, Belene, Kozloduy.

There are also one to two daily departures to Plovdiv and Bucharest, and at least in the summer to Burgas.

It is possible to cross to Romania through Ruse or with one of two daily buses to Oryahovo, then take the ferry over to Bechet.

Get around

Getting around the city on foot is quite straightforward. The city is split by a long pedestrian street with many shops and service facilities.

There is also an extensive network of buses and trolley-buses. A single ticket costs 1,50 лв (Aug. 2022) and you pay to a person who will approach you once you've boarded and taken a seat. Main trolley bus lines are numbers 3 and 7 (running between Storgozia and Kaylaka, passing close to the train and bus stations) and numbers 9 and 5, which run between the train/bus station and Druzhba. Easyway journey planner helps to find routes and schedules.

Taxis are generally cheap. You would normally not pay more than 4 лв within the city (feb 2012). Make sure the driver puts the meter on. There are numerous taxi stands in the centre and around many bus stops. You can also call a taxi (some numbers: 064 / 88-89, 064 / 88-00, 064 / 81-55-55), but do not expect them to speak much English.

See

Unsurprisingly, many of Pleven's sights are somehow connected with the Siege of Pleven and the Liberation War. In addition to the sights in the city, you can find multiple monuments, individual and collective graves in the surrounding countryside, if you are so inclined.

• 1 Pleven Panorama. By far the most popular sight of Pleven. It depicts the events of the Russian-Turkish War of 1877–78, specifically the five-month Siege of Plevna (Pleven Epopee) which made the city internationally famous and which contributed to the Liberation of Bulgaria after five centuries of Ottoman rule. At the ticket booth, you can book a personal tour in English, which will give you a good overview of the battle and its context. The tour is very affordable and definitely worth your while.  
• 2 Regional History Museum (Регионален исторически музей), ul. "Stoyan Zaimov" 3 (south side of the city centre, south of the City Garden), museum@rim-pleven.com. Apr–Oct: 09:30–12:00, 12:30–18:00; Nov–Mar: 09:00–12:00, 12:30–17:30 (both closed Su). Large museum in a heritage building, former barracks of the 4th Pleven Infantry Regiment (built 1884-1888). Archaeological, historical and ethnographic exhibits span from prehistory to the wars of the early 20th century. This includes the Siege of Pleven, as well as... famous Bulgarian opera singer Ghena Dimitrova (1941-2005). There's also a natural history section about local fossils, geology, flora and fauna. All exhibits: adults 8 лв, students 4 лв, various other discounts apply; lecture/tour in English: 30 лв; camera fee: 15 лв. (updated Oct 2024)

During the summer the many fountains and a water cascade on the central pedestrian street are a favourite place for relaxation among locals.

Pleven is famous for its Kaylaka (where the ruins of the Storgosia fortification can be found) and Skobelev parks. The latter is home to the Pleven Panorama and was where most of the battles took place. The Kaylaka park is very popular among locals. There is a zoo, a pond where you can rent a boat and row, tennis courts, bicycle lanes, perfect places for picnics or playing games. There are a few hiking trails around, up to some cliffs and caves. It's also the location of the wine museum, which is very much worth a visit. If you want to spend a couple of days relaxing in the park, also consider staying at the nearby hostel. From the city you can either walk or take trolley buses 3 or 7 to their last stop.

A very interesting and somewhat underestimated sight is the 'Svetlin Rusev Donative Exhibition' (Bulgarian: Изложба-дарение „Светлин Русев“, Izlozhba-darenie „Svetlin Rusev“), which includes the personal collection of the famous Bulgarian artist. It includes works by Pablo Picasso, Francisco Goya, Honoré Daumier, Marc Chagall, Maurice Denis, Pierre-Auguste Renoir, Salvador Dalí and Renato Guttuso, among others. Admission is free!

Outside the village of Gigen, close to Pleven, lie the ruins of the Roman town of Oescus.

Eat

• Pizzeria Signorina (пицария Синьорина), ул. Ал.Стамболийски 1 (very close to the military club (see Sleep section), up the street on the left side.). Good pizzas and other meals. The place is known for displaying the two largest jigsaw puzzles in the world (36000 and 24000 pieces). 
• Top Table offers modern cuisine in an upmarket cafe atmosphere.

Drink

• Havana Bar
• Dumfies Bar some live music with a cover charge

Sleep

There are a few hotels in the city and not many budget options such as hostels. The cheapest option is a hostel (tourist house) in the Kayluka park, outside of the city.

One of the two best known hotels in the city, catering mostly to the business crowd, is Balkan (http://hotel-balkan.com/index.php?lang=en , has prices from €15 per person). 3-star.

• Rostov The other best known hotel Rostov (http://www.rostov.bg/), three star. Has a bar and breakfast restaurant. 53 лв for a single or 60 лв with breakfast (2022).
• 1 Military Club (Военен Клуб), main square (at the far end of the main square, opposite the municipality building, close do Doyran blvd), ☏ +359 64 831367. Very central location. Basic rooms in the military club (rated as a 1 star hotel). 50 лв for a single, 60 лв for a double room (Feb 2012). s. 50/d. 60. (updated Oct 2023)
• Hostel Kaylaka (Туристически дом Кайлъка), park Kaylaka (It is a bit out of town, close to the entrence to the beautiful park Kaylaka. You can take trolley bus nr. 7 or 3 to the last stop and walk from there ), ☏ +359 64 83 43 52, +359 878 75 80 37 (mobile). Basic hotel, accommodating mostly groups. Has a restaurant. Cheapest option in Pleven. Very important: If you ask for directions or take a taxi, make sure they do not confuse it with a way more luxurious hotel Kaylaka, which is further away inside the park. 20-70 лв. Single room: 20/30 лв (with/without TV), Double room: 45 лв, Triple room: 50 лв, Quadruple room: 55 лв, Apartment: 70 лв. (updated Oct 2023)
• Hotel Face, 12 Svoboda sq./площад Свобода 12 (very central, on the main pedestrian street, across from a restaurant called Speedy), ☏ +359 64 801 613. Small and clean rooms. Perfect location. 50-100 лв (single, double, apartments). (updated Oct 2023)

Connect

Internet cafés are hard to come by these days but there is free wifi virtually everywhere around the main street. Most cafés will have an open wifi network and there are open public wifi networks, which are free for one or two hours of use.

The main post office is in the southeast corner of the main square, next to the municipal building with the clock.

Nearby

Levski

Levski (Левски) is a town of slightly less than 10,000 people (2021), 40 km (25 mi) east of Pleven, (re)named after Bulgarian national hero Vasil Levski. It's notable mostly for being a junction station on the major railway line Sofia-Pleven-Varna - there, the main line is crossed by a minor un-electrified line that goes to Svishtov on the Danube in the north, and to Lovech and Troyan in the Balkan Mountains to the south. Shuttle trains run from Levski in both directions.

European Route E83/National Road 3 bypasses Levski 10 km (6.2 mi) to the north; Road 303 to Levski exits to the south at the village of Balgarene ('Българене'). From the opposite direction, Road 303 branches off E772/Road 4 east of Veliko Tarnovo, passing through Pavlikeni before it reaches Levski.

From Levski itself, Road 301 slants south-west towards Lovech, passing close to the Devetashka Cave; the picturesque Kurshuna Falls are closer to Levski than Lovech (see Lovech § Nearby).

• 1 Levski Railway Station. Angular Communist-era building from the 1970s or 80s. If you are bored while waiting to change trains, there's a monument to Levski on the square in front of the station. (updated Oct 2024)

Go next

The spa towns of Chiflik or Ribaritsa are good stops, if you are up for some bathing and relaxation.