The Petrograd Side is a borough in Saint Petersburg consisting of the islands of the northern part of the Neva delta.
Mostly residential, it is also home to several smaller universities, stadiums of FC Zenit and the tallest structure of the city, 326 m high TV tower. It includes the Peter and Paul Fortress and the site where Saint Petersburg was founded. In the beginning the city grew around Troitskaya Square, but within a few decades the city center shifted to the opposite bank of the Neva, and until the 1890s this borough, dominated by the fortifications of the Peter and Paul Fortress, remained peripheral. In the late 19th-early 20th century it was quickly built over, centering along Bolshoy Prospekt and Kamennoostrovsky Prospekt. The architecture of that period has remained mostly intact. The islands in the northwestern part of the borough, across the Malaya Nevka, have been a recreational area covered mostly by parks, mansions and sports facilities.
The borough is served by five Metro (subway) stations:
: Petrogradskaya (Петроградская). Transfer to : № 1, 2М, 2Мб, 10, 25, 46, 128, 191. : № 40. : № К-10, К-46, К-76, К-120, К-127, К-131, К-136, К-141, К-149, К-160, К-175А, К-183, К-209, К-223, К-252, К-298, К-346, К-369, К-690. : № 31, 34
:Sportivnaya (Спортивная). Transfer to : № 1, 5М, 5Ма, 10, 128, 135а, 191, 492. : № К-10, К-30, К-32, К-120, К-127, К-141, К-149, К-175, К-183, К-209, К-252, К-298, К-346, К-690. : № 6, 40. : № 1, 7, 9, 31.
Buses ( ), trolleybuses ( ), trams ( ) and marshrutkas ( ) cover the main streets, though they can be crowded and caught in traffic jams during peak hours, as these streets are major commuting routes linking the North to the Vasilievsky Island and Center. Note that Bolshoy Prospekt is a one-way street (southbound) for most of its length, the traffic in the opposite direction follows Bolshaya Pushkarskaya Street.
Don't confuse Bolshoy Prospekt and Maly Prospekt with the streets of the same name on Vasilievsky Island.
- 1 Peter and Paul Fortress (Петропа́вловская кре́пость, Petropavlovskaya Krepost), Zayachi Island ( : Gorkovskaya (Горьковская)), ☏ . 10:00-18:00. The Fortress, occupying the entire island, is the original citadel of Saint Petersburg, built during the first half of the 18th century, now a museum. It is dominated by the Peter and Paul Cathedral (1712-1732) with its 123 m (404 ft) high spire. Regular guided tours to the belltower and the viewing platform are provided from May to September. Free. To enter cathedral and exhibitions, 280 руб, students 150 руб.
By far the largest island, served by four of the five metro stations.
Quarters of well-preserved and often beautiful houses from the 1890s-1910s along Bolshoy Prospekt and Kamennoostrovsky Prospekt are off the beaten path and worth exploring.
- 2 [dead link] Military-Historical Museum of Artillery, Engineer and Signal Corps (Артиллерийский музей, Кронверк), Aleksandrovskiy Park 7 ( : Gorkovskaya (Горьковская)). Open Wed-Su. Closed the last Thursday of the month. Housed in the crownwork (an external fortification) of the Peter and Paul Fortress and surrounded by a moat, it shows a huge collection of weapons of various ages and countries, from missiles to knives. Labels in Russian only.
- 3 1911 memorial to the crew of the torpedo boat Steregushchy (In the park right next to the : Gorkovskaya (Горьковская), facing Kamennoostrovsky Prospekt). Believed to have been scuttled by the remaining sailors after the lost battle with the Japanese off Port Arthur in March 1904 to avoid her capture by the enemy.
- 4 Leningrad Zoo (Зоопарк), Aleksandrovsky Park (Александровский парк), 1 ( : Gorkovskaya (Горьковская), : 6 or 40 to stop 'Сытный рынок'), ☏ , fax: . 10:00—19:00 (winter until 18:00). A rather mediocre one due to chronic underfunding. Visitors may be disappointed by the conditions in which the animals are held. 350 руб.
- 5 Saint Petersburg Mosque (Главная Санкт-Петербургская Соборная мечеть, المنزل مسجد سانت بطرسبرغ), Kronverkskiy prospekt (Кронверкский пр.), 7 (Less than 300 m from : Gorkovskaya (Горьковская), not far from the Peter and Paul Fortress. - : 6 or 40 to stop 'Станция метро Горьковская'), ☏ . Opened in 1913, huge and ornate. The interiors are unavailable to non-Muslims, except for guided visits arranged through the State Museum of the History of Religion, but it is worth seeing from the outside. Three storey building, for 3000 pilgrims.
- 6 State Museum of the Political History of Russia (Gosudarstvennyy Muzey Politicheskoy Istorii Rossii,), Kuibysheva St (ул. Куйбышева), 2-4 (Right next to the mosque, near the : Gorkovskaya (Горьковская), From metro Petrogradskaya : 46, 76, From metro Sportivnaya : 183, From Finlyandsky Railway Station ( : 49 or : 183, 30), ☏ , ✉ email@example.com. Closed every Thursday and last Monday of each month. Hosted in two remarkable former mansions built in the beginning of the 20th century, the museum exhibits various items related to the Russian politics since the 18th century.
- 7 Troitsky Bridge (Троицкий мост), Kamennoostrovskiy prospekt ( : Gorkovskaya (Горьковская)). 24/7. The third permanent bridge across the Neva and the first connecting this borough with the opposite bank. It opened in 1903. One of the most beautiful bridges in the city, it is a particularly spectacular sight during the white nights when it is drawn up to allow ships to pass. Free.
- 8 The Cabin of Peter the Great (Домик Петра I), Petrovskaya naberezhnaya (Петровская наб.), 6 ( : Gorkovskaya (Горьковская)), ☏ . We-M 10:00–18:00, Closed last Monday of each month. The wooden summer house of the Russian tsar dating from 1703. Enclosed within a more recent protective brick pavilion (so what one sees from the outside is not the original construction), it is the oldest building in the city, hosting a small museum. The quay in front of the cabin is decorated with two authentic Chinese stone lions brought from Jilin City in 1907.
- 9 Aurora (Крейсер «Аврора»), Petrogradskaya Embankment (Петроградская наб.) 2 (1.5 km (1 mi) from : Gorkovskaya (Горьковская), you can also use : 6 and bus 46 or 49), ☏ . M-F 10:30-16:00 only for groups. Early 20th century protected cruiser (extensively repaired after WWII and in the 1980s), most famous for her symbolic role in the Russian Revolution of November 1917. It took part in the Russo-Japanese war in 1905. It has long been a museum ship open to the public, moored in front of the Nakhimov Naval School. Adults 300 руб, Students 100 руб, Photo 50 руб, Video filming 100 руб.
- 10 Kirov Museum, Benua House (Музей С. М. Кирова, дом Бенуа), Kamennoostrovsky Prospekt (Каменноостровский пр.), 26/28 (Between : Gorkovskaya (Горьковская) and : Petrogradskaya (Петроградская), Bus 46, : К30, К46, К76, К183, К223), ☏ . Th-Tu 11:00-18:00. Features the apartment of the city's communist boss from 1926-1934. 100 руб.
- 11 Tuchkov Buyan (Near the Tuchkov Bridge, :Sportivnaya (Спортивная) station. - : К10, К30, К32, К120, К175A, К183, К346, К690). Palace-like warehouses built on the bank of the Malaya Neva by Antonio Rinaldi in 1763-1772. It is better viewed from the opposite bank, i.e. from the Vasilievsky Island.
- 12 St Vladimir's Cathedral (Князь-Владимирский собор), Blokhina St (ул. Блохина,) 26 ( :Sportivnaya (Спортивная) station, Troliley 1, 9, 31 or : К10, К30, К32, К127, К149, К175A, К183, К209, К252, К298, К346), ☏ , fax: . Russian orthodox cathedral built in 1766-1789
Home to the Botanical Garden, TV tower (inaccessible), the Electrotechnical University and medical research institutes
- 13 Botanical Garden (Ботанический сад), Aptekarsky Prospekt 1 (in summer) or Professora Popova St (ул. Профессора Попова) 2 (in winter) ( : Petrogradskaya (Петроградская) station, bus 28 to stop Уральская улица/ Наличная улица), ☏ , fax: . The greenhouses are open all year round, but are closed on Mondays. The park is open daily from May to October.. With an arboretum, flower garden, botanical museum and a large complex of greenhouses (greenhouses can only be accessed with a guided tour).
Its remarkable early 20th-century villas as well as some earlier buildings are well worth seeing.
The island is accessible through footbridges from three sides (Krestovsky Island, Kamenny Island and the mainland to the north). The nearest metro stations are : 'Krestovsky Ostrov', and Staraya Derevnya.
- 14 [dead link] Yelagin Palace (Елагинский дворец), Yelagin Island (Елагин остров), 4 ( : 21, 48 to stop 'ЦПКиО'), ☏ . The Yelagin Palace (1785-1790), hosting a museum and surrounded by a landscape park with a network of interconnected ponds, which occupies the entire island. It is possible to rent a boat there.
Home to the stadium of FC Zenit (a host stadium during the 2018 FIFA World Cup), an amusement park, and recently built residential blocks. It's served to the east by the Krestovsky Ostrov metro station (line M5, purple, towards Komendantskiy Prospect) and to the west, closer to the stadium, by Novokrestovskaya (line M3, green, towards Begovaya).
- 15 Krestovsky Stadium (стадион «Крестовский»), Futbol'naya Alleya 1. At a cost of $1.1 billion at current exchange rates, it is considered one of the most expensive stadiums ever built.
- 16 Old Stadium of FC Zenit.
- 1 Helicopter Tour from the Fortress helipad, Zayachy Island, from the Fortress helipad ( : Gorkovskaya (Горьковская)), ✉ firstname.lastname@example.org. 11:30-18:00. It is possible to take a 15-minute aerial tour along the 10 km long portion of the Neva, between the Blagoveshchensky and Alexander Nevsky Bridges, during weekends from May to October, starting from the helipad right outside the Peter and Paul Fortress' walls, but it is quite expensive and noisy. 5000 руб.
- 2 Yelagin Island ( : 21, 48 to stop 'ЦПКиО'). Inexpensive boats can be rented for the ponds. In the winter, skis, sleds, and ice skates can be also be rented.
- 1 Perekrestok Supermarket, Riverside Shopping Center (Перекрёсток), Ulitsa Akademika Pavlova ( ул. Академика Павлова, 5) ( : К10, К131, К149, К175A, К223, К369, К690. or Bus 128, Trolley 31 to stop 'Ulitsa Akademika Pavlova'), ☏ . Daily 09:00—23:00.
- 2 Pyatyorochka Grocery, ave. Dobrolyubova (просп. Добролюбова), 20, Bldg. 1A ( :Sportivnaya (Спортивная). Inside the Artyom Shopping Center), ☏ . 09:00-23:00. This is a unit of All Russia Grocery store chain. List of Spb shops
- 3 [dead link] Knizhny Klub na Avstriyskoy Ploshchadi, Kamennoostrovsky Prospekt 13/2 (Avstriyskaya Square).
- 1 Pizza Hut, Кamennoostrovski prospekt, 37-д, ☏ . Pizza international chain.
- 2 U Tyoshi na Blinakh, Sytninskaya (У тёщи на блинах), Sytninskaya ulitsa, 16 ( : 6 or 40 to stop 'Сытный рынок'), ☏ .
- 3 Kafe Tbilisi, Sytninskaya ul, 10 ( Gorkovskaya (Горьковская) behind the market), ☏ . Georgian food. The dishes prepared in pots are excellent.
- 4 Austeria (Аустерия), Iohann Alley (Иоанновский равелин), Peter & Paul Fortress (Near the entrance to the fortress), ☏ , ✉ email@example.com. noon-midnight. This restaurant, offering a very European setting with mostly Russian high quality food, nabs a lot of tourists visiting the fortress. But nonetheless, the service and food remain phenomenal - while tourists are trapped here, it is no tourist trap. Off season, particularly during the snowy winter months it place can be almost magical, as you get the beautiful restaurant more or less to yourself. Meals start at 1150 руб but can reach much higher.
- 5 Na Zdorovye! (На здоровье!), П.С. пр. Большой , 13/4 (3 blocks up Bolshoy Prospect from the Sportivnaya metro station, : К10, К30, К32, К127, К149, К175A, К183, К209, К252, К298, К346, К690 to stop Pionerskaya ulitsa). noon-23:00. This is the kitschiest kitchen in town, but it's no tourist trap, not by a long stretch. Its way off on the Petrograd Side north of the stadium, and is frequented mostly just by Russians, who come to enjoy the fun over-the-top decor, and the delightful "tastes just like babushka makes it" cooking. Sending the kitsch even further over that top are the performances of Russian/Gypsy folk music and singing 19:00-23:00 daily. 900 руб.
- Underground (ex-Tunnel), Zverinskaya ulitsa (Metro: Sportivnaya). Reputedly Russia's first techno club and certainly its most legendary, Tunnel is back after an extended shutdown. This unused bomb shelter isn't exactly pretty and the crush and "face control" at the entrance when the doors open at midnight sharp are legendary, but the crowd and the DJs are worth it. Entry 250-350 руб depending on who is playing.
Don't wander anywhere near the stadium after matches of FC Zenit.