Santiago Atitlán

Santiago Atitlán is a city in Guatemala on Lake Atitlán near Panajachel. It's famous as the largest indigenous population of Tz'utujil Mayans. It's much less touristy than Pana or San Pedro, and a good place to see local people going about their normal lives. But as a fairly large town, has plenty of infrastructure to accommodate visitors, plus a couple of attractions.

Santiago is located on an inlet of the Lago Atitlán, without a clear view over the main body of the lake, though the massive looming figure of Volcan San Pedro across the inlet easily makes up for that.

Understand

Santiago Atitlán was the capital of the Tz'utujil Maya kingdom before the Spaniards took over, and today the vast majority of its residents are still Maya people, still speaking the Tz'utujtil language among themselves (though these days almost all of them know Spanish too). This is a different Mayan culture and language from the Kaqchikel Maya on the northern side of the lake (for example in Panajachel), though the two are closely related.

Santiago is also known for its traumatic history during the Guatemalan Civil War, when government death squads disappeared countless local Maya people based on spurious accusations that they were associated with a guerilla movement in the nearby mountains. The government goons even assassinated a Catholic priest from the US, who has since been officially recognized as a martyr by the Vatican. Towards the end of the war, the townspeople rose up in a massive, mostly-peaceful protest against the army, gaining nationwide attention that led to the army withdrawing from the town. Santiago Atitlán became the first Mayan community in Guatemala to be freed from the military's genocidal reign of terror - but only after 14 local protestors were gunned down by the soldiers.

Get in

The dock in Santiago Atitlán

You can get to Santiago Atitlán by chicken bus from Guatemala City (their signs say "Guate-Atitlán"), by pick-up truck from San Lucas Tolimán and nearby locations, and by boat from Panajachel or San Pedro La Laguna. Shuttles are also provided by travel agencies at Antigua, Xela and the capital city.

If arriving in your own vehicle, it's advisable to arrive from the direction of San Lucas Tolimán, avoiding the less-traveled road between Santiago and San Pedro. Though the situation as of 2024 is unclear, in past years the Santiago-San Pedro road has been the site of armed robberies, with bandits stopping vehicles at gunpoint.

It is also possible to arrive in Santiago from the south. Pickups reportedly run over the mountains occasionally from Chicacao, east of Mazatenango.

By boat

Santiago's embarcadero (boat wharf) is compact and easy to find. If you're leaving Santiago, just arrive there and tell one of the guys by the boats where you're going, and they'll direct you to the right dock.

From Panajachel

Direct speedboats to Santiago leave from several spots in Panajachel, though less frequently than the more commonly-used boats between Pana and San Pedro, and may wait until they fill up or be canceled if there are barely any passengers. As of July 2024, Locals pay only Q20, while the foreigner price seems to vary from Q25 to Q50 per person.

As of July 2024, there are said to be various departures in the morning from the beach down the path from the end of Calle del Rio, until about noon. A separate dock right at the end of Rancho Grande street has a number of scheduled departures about every hour and a half from the morning until 3pm, but the later ones can be canceled if not enough passengers show up. Still, this might be a good place to take the boat if you're worried about being charged way too much, since you pay at a desk (on the beach up against the retaining wall) where the price is posted tat Q30.

Although many locals aren't aware, there are apparently boats to Santiago from Pana's main tourist wharf at the end of Calle del Embarcadero as well. In July 2024 one visitor reports paying just Q25 for a lancha from Santiago back to here, and the boatman said they run until 6pm.

From San Pedro

There are also direct boats between San Pedro and Santiago, which is useful if you're in San Pedro already, or in case you can't find any direct boats from Pana to Santiago in the afternoon (i.e. you can take a frequent boat from Pana to San Pedro, then a second boat from San Pedro to Santiago). The boats to Santiago leave from a separate pier on the opposite side of San Pedro town from the main tourist wharf. The foreigner price from San Pedro to Santiago is Q25, and boats leave when full, with the last departure at 5pm - because this last departure is frequented by Santiago locals coming home from work in San Pedro, it's almost never canceled, but you may also want to arrive early in case it fills up.

Get around

The town is quite walkable. But in case you need to get somewhere faster, there are plenty of tuk-tuks. As of July 2024, the correct price is considered to be Q5 for any trip within the town proper. Try just handing them a Q5 note when you get off, rather than asking them the fare.

See

Recommended destinations are the Catholic church, which structure dates back to as far as 1571, and contains three plaques giving an overview of its history; the market street, running from the docks to the church, offers beautiful woven stuff, volcanic jade carvings and dubiously ancient Tz’utujil pieces allegedly unearthed from the grounds around. Most travelers also pay a visit to Maximón (see below under "Do").

• 1 Mirador Rey Tepepul (south of town on Chicacao road (turn left in Cantón Panabaj)). A spectacular ridgetop roadside viewpoint, with platforms for viewing both the Lake Atitlán basin on one side and the coastal slope of Guatemala on the other side. Best to go in the morning for sunny weather. Considered potentially dangerous at dusk and nighttime, due both to robbery risk and stray bullets from hunters. Birding tours to see quetzals also start from here, but involve guided walks down unmarked, steep jungle trails. Arrive by your own vehicle or riding with farmers in the back of a pickup, from the south end of town near Parque Xechivoy (Q6). free. (updated Aug 2024)

Do

Santiago Boat Docks

The Spanish schools around the lake also provide volunteer opportunities built into the school. EntreMundos, an NGO based out of Quetzaltenango, serves the purpose of connecting nonprofit organizations and volunteers throughout Guatemala.

Climb San Pedro, the large volcano west of Santiago. Do not use a guide from Santiago; take a lancha over to San Pedro first and find a guide there (many are bilingual). Climbing from the Santiago side is very long and dangerous, the San Pedro side has a developed trail with stairs and handholds in steep parts (although there is an entrance fee).

Attend the Sunday mass in the church at 10am. You will see all the locals dress up in their best traditional clothes, sing Spanish songs and hear some prayers in Tz'utujil language.

Find Maximón. He sets up his temple in a local house and moves to a new place every year around May. He is some kind of devil that protects the people and grants wishes, taking money, cigarettes, and especially alcohol in return. As of July 2024, an offering of Q5 is requested to approach him, or Q10 if you also want to take photos.

Go swimming in the lake. There's a nice local park called Parque Xechivoy at the south end of town that includes a swimming pier, complete with shaded benches (free). You can also watch locals doing their laundry by hand at a specially built lakeshore washing area nearby.

See wild quetzales in the hills south of town. During nesting season from January to May, the forest here is one of the most reliable places in Guatemala to spot the spectacular national bird. You'll probably want to hire a guide, since the birds nest in specific spots along unmarked jungle trails, are difficult to find even for experienced birders if you don't know the spots. Though the birds are even harder to find (and harder to photograph) outside of season, they're actually still there, and some guides will still take a shot at it for you - in July, one guide said there was still a 50-50 chance of finding one. If you're interested in birds in general, there are also many other interesting species here, including the stunning, locally-common Azure-rumped Tanager, which is found nowhere else in the world but a small number of cloud forests in Guatemala and Chiapas.

• Birding Atitlán Expeditions, ☏ +502 3145 7601 (Whatsapp). Perhaps the most established company for quetzal tours, known for their guides being expert birders. English spoken and very responsive on WhatsApp. US$60 per person or US$100 for 2-3 people. (updated Aug 2024)

Tour prices may be negotiable, down to at least Q300 ($40) depending on the guide and dates, which some higher-end tours may include pickup from Panajachel. If you're looking for a cheaper-end guide, try asking your hotel after arriving in Santiago.

Eat

Unlike some other towns around the lake, people in Santiago are night owls - restaurants stay open well into the evening, street food is available at night in the market areas near the main square, and some hole-in-the-wall eateries don't even open until 9pm. That's not to say you'll necessarily have luck after midnight - but you don't have to worry about eating an early dinner.

La Posada de Santiago - famed restaurant out the outskirts of town.

Restaurante El Pescador - Best food in the town, also some of the most expensive (Q40-80). Located near the center of town on "calle gringo".

Quila's - Clean, good food. Newer restaurant owned by a Belgian expat named Martin, their licuados are the town's best. Located in a somewhat secluded corner, best way to find it is to take a tuk tuk. Free Wi-Fi (with purchase) and ping pong.

Drink

• Quila's (Cafe Quila's) (near main dock), ☏ +502 77217225. 11:00-22:00(ish). Elegant upscale cafe bar and restaurant. Great place to read, watch large screen tv or use internet connection. 

There are also some very local dive bars in town, plus a few other good restaurants that serve beer and wine.

Sleep

There are various low- to mid-range hotels in town, generally offering mediocre value for money. You can also check vacation rental websites. There is apparently no backpacker hostel here, which is perhaps part of the town's unique charm.

• 1 La Posada de Santiago (on lake south of town by about 1 km), ☏ +50277217366. Little stone cottages (casitas) with lakefront swimming pool, hot tub, temazcal (steam bath or dry sauna--your choice), gardens, palapa, dock, canoe, kayaks, and pedal boat included in rentals. San Pedro Volcano is just across the way. (updated Aug 2020)

Stay Safe

The town itself is considered quite safe, though drunk men and aggressive dogs on the streets can occasionally be a nuisance. Inquire locally before venturing into the mountains or far into the countryside without a guide, as armed robberies of tourists have occurred in some areas.