Siena

Siena is a medieval city in Tuscany, 70 km (43 mi) south of Florence. It is probably best known for a colourful horse race, Il Palio, conducted twice each year in the summer. As a walled hill city, Siena's centro storico is extremely picturesque, and from high towers, you can see the beautiful countryside that still largely surrounds the city. With a few notable exceptions (including the pretty yellow colour of the sunflowers that are cultivated for oil for export), the Sienese countryside looks almost the same as it did in Medieval paintings.

Understand

A snapshot of some of the pageantry and processions that precede the Palio

History

Siena was an Etruscan city in ancient times, but the era that is most evident in its architecture and remains a constant presence in the city's character is the Middle Ages. Siena was a proud, wealthy, and warlike independent city-state during the Middle Ages and held off its rival Florence in several battles before finally going down to defeat. Medieval Sienese art (painting, sculpture, architecture, etc.) is unique and of great historical importance. Some of the most famous of the artists who lived and worked in Siena are the painters Duccio, Simone Martini, and Ambrogio and Pietro Lorenzetti and the sculptor Jacopo della Quercia.

Sienese people are fiercely proud of their city and their neighborhood (contrada). Each contrada has its own flag, emblem, contrada parish church and contrada house, which functions as a kind of neighborhood social club. The Palio, described below, is all about neighborhood pride and rivalry, and also constitutes the unbroken continuation of a Medieval tradition associated with religion, pageantry, trash-talking, bragging, and occasional violence. It is taken very seriously and is in no way a put-on for tourists; in fact, you are likely to feel less welcomed during the Palio than at any other time, and there isn't the slightest doubt that Siena would run the Palio with great enthusiasm regardless of whether any visitors ever showed up.

That said, this is a city which depends and flourishes on tourism. Siena was a very poor little city for a few hundred years after its defeat, which is the main reason why its lovely Medieval buildings were never torn down and replaced with modern structures. In the 19th century tourists started coming. Nowadays, it is a requirement that new buildings within the city walls be built to maintain the city's character and beauty, with the result that the streets are lined with many neo-Gothic buildings that blend in with the genuinely Gothic ones.

Siena today

The Sienese countryside is part of the Chianti region, and therefore, it is easy to find good local wines in Sienese shops and to accompany your meals in ristoranti and trattorie. Sienese cuisine is delicious, and though some eateries are definitely better than others, it is difficult to find truly bad food in this city. In addition to being known internationally as a medieval city that's a great draw for tourists, Siena is known nationally as a university town, and there are also places for foreign visitors to stay for a few weeks and study Italian or other subjects.

Get in

Siena is a walled city, so one must enter one of the city gates — in this case, the Porta Camollia — for access

By plane

Most travellers arriving by plane will land at 1 Florence Airport (FLR ^IATA) near Florence or 2 Pisa International Airport (PSA ^IATA) near Pisa.

Buses of the Sena line connect Siena with the 3 Marconi Airport (BLQ ^IATA) (twice daily, 2½ hours) near Bologna, a favorite with the discount carriers. There is also a bus link to Pisa International Airport.

By train

From the north, trains go about hourly directly from Florence to Siena, and otherwise it is possible to take any train that stops in Empoli and find train connections from Empoli to Siena every 30–60 minutes. The ticket from Florence SMN costs €10.20 (October 2023). From the south, including Rome, direct connections to Siena depart from Chiusi or from Grosseto.

Siena's 4 Train Station is approximately 2 km from the city's historical centre — a five-minute bus ride — and buses leave regularly from Piazza del Sale. Buses #3, 8, 10, 17 and 77 leave from the station to Piazza del Sale and bus #17 departs from Piazza del Sale for the train station.

You can also walk to the centre in about 20–30 minutes: exit the train station and go through the Porta Siena shopping centre (which is open 08:00-21:00), go up the escalators at the far end to Level 2, and continue up the moving sidewalks and escalators to Via Vittorio Emanuele; turn left and walk about 500 m to the Porta Camollia city gate, and follow the road into the city.

By bus

By far the easiest way to get to Siena from Florence (though the train journey is much more picturesque) is to take the Tiemme SpA bus (depart from a small underground bus depot across the street, to the west of Santa Maria Novella train station in Florence). After 1 hr 20 min it will eventually drop you off at Piazza Garibaldi which is located well within the walls of the city, allowing for an easy walk to any of the city's attractions. For the return journey, buses depart from Piazza Gramsci. The cost is €8.40 (May 2019).

Connections are also available from Rome (3 hr), Perugia (1 hr 20 min) and various other cities.

5 Bus station, Piazza Antonio Gramsci, 26. Luggage storage is available at the underground floor, €5.5 per bag, 09:00 - 19:00. (The train station doesn't have luggage storage facilities.) (updated May 2019)

By car

From the north, take the Chiantigiana from Florence (SS 222 – 72 km) that elegantly crosses the hills of Chianti or the highway (SS 2 superstrada Siena/Firenze - 68 km). From the south, Siena can be reached by taking the Autostrada from Rome (A1 Roma-Firenze, exit Valdichiana), and turning right on state highway #326 (Bettolle-Siena - 240 km). Relatively cheap parking can be found near the Fortezza Medicea, northwest of the city stadium, and around it.

Get around

By car

The centre of Siena is accessible only on foot. Cars (other than taxis, police, etc.) are strictly prohibited; motorcycles and scooters are OK, though.

Patrons of the central hotels are allowed to drive up and unload the luggage (and then get out), but only by obtaining one-time permission slips from the hotel front desk beforehand (also have them draw the route for you on a map and follow it to the letter. If you miss a turn, it may be wiser to head out the nearest gate, get on the circumferential road just outside the walls, return to the starting point and try again). Have this pass handy if stopped by police while driving within the walls, or, in a pinch, at least a confirmation of your reservation. Don't rush your turns, and swing wide like a truck, as you would be sometimes required to fit between two stone walls into an opening just slightly wider than your vehicle. For more information, contact "Siena Parcheggi" tel. 0577-228711.

To call or reserve a taxi, telephone the Central Reservation Office at 0577-49222.

Siena may be the only city in Mediterranean Europe where parking is not a massive headache, though charges have increased dramatically in the past few years and you can expect to pay €40 or more per day for the more convenient spots. The huge parking lots around the Fortezza and the adjacent football stadium are no longer free, but on the other hand, you can now count on finding a space there almost anytime; there is free parking further out, with minibus service, from Due Ponti and Coroncina (beyond Porta Romana).

By bus

Google maps shows the location of all bus stops within the city. If you zoom in and click the bus symbol on the map, you will get a list of bus routes serving that stop. There are several small buses (Pollicino) run by the TRA-IN company that cover some streets located in the centre and several bus lines to and from the outskirts of town. Bus tickets cost €1.50 per fare (as of May 2019) when bought at kiosks/tabacchi but are more expensive when bought from the driver.

The website for Siena Mobilità has bus schedules (orari) for routes within Siena.

On foot

Siena is a city (a small city, yes, but it isn't like one of the tiny hill towns) and the attractions away from the Campo/Duomo area are spread out on three steep hills, so walking is a necessity. You will understand why Italians can eat so much and not get fat, when you see old women carrying groceries up a long street with a 30-degree incline. If you are tired, check to see if you can get to your destination by walking along a ridge, rather than going in a straight line down a hill and back up.

See

View of the oval-shaped Piazza del Campo, city and countryside beyond

The Palazzo Pubblico, with its tower, the Torre del Mangia, majestically dominating the Piazza del Campo

Siena's historic centre is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Piazza del Campo

This unique shell-shaped piazza is the centre of the city, and twice a year functions as the racetrack for the Palio (see "Do" below). It is beautiful and striking in itself and also lined by some of the most famous and beautiful Gothic buildings in town.

• 1 Palazzo Pubblico (Town Hall), Piazza del Campo, 1, ☏ +39 0577 292111. 10:00-18:00. This striking structure has functioned as Siena's City Hall for almost 800 years and is probably the building that most recognizably represents Siena. It contains (among many other things) the famous frescoes on good and bad government by Ambrogio Lorenzetti, frescoes by Simone Martini and Duccio, and access to the Torre del Mangia, from the top of which you can view a beautiful panorama of the Sienese countryside. The frescoes on good and bad government and their effects on the city and surrounding countryside (painted 1338-1339), probably Ambrogio Lorenzetti's greatest masterpieces, are in the Sala dei Nove, where the Council of Nine who ruled the city state in the early 14th century could see them and, it was hoped, would keep them close to mind while making important decisions. These frescoes and Duccio's Maestà in the Museo dell'Opera del Duomo are the most important paintings in Siena and for many people represent highlights of a visit to this city, but there are many other beautiful things to see in the Palazzo Pubblico, so allow some time (preferably a couple of hours) to view them all. This building's exterior is equally beautiful and includes a lovely marble chapel, the Cappella di Piazza, which is at the foot of the Torre di Mangia. Built in 1352, it is dedicated to the Virgin Mary, as was the entire city after it avoided annihilation in the devastating black plague of 1348. (updated Jun 2017)
• 2 Palazzo Piccolomini (Piccolomini Palace), Banchi di Sotto, ☏ +39 0577 40563. One of the most popular sites on the Piazza del Campo, it was built in 1459 by the well-known architect Bernardo Rossellino, disciple of Leon Battista Alberti. This Florentine-style palazzo is home to the official archives of Siena. (updated Jun 2017)
• 3 Palazzo Sansedoni (Sansedoni Palace), Il Campo, 58. Opposite the Palazzo Pubblico, it is another beautiful Gothic building on the Campo. (updated Jun 2017)
• 4 Fonte Gaia (Gaia Fountain), Il Campo, 21. The fountain sculpted in 1419 by the great Sienese sculptor, Jacopo della Quercia, is a focal point of the piazza. The remains of the original sculptures can be viewed in the loggia of the Palazzo Pubblico (see above), but the appearance of the fountain, composed of copies made in 1858, is not bad and remains a major sight in this city. (updated Jun 2017)

Other major sights

The Duomo

• 5 Duomo di Siena (Siena Cathedral), Piazza del Duomo, 8, ☏ +39 0577 286300, opasiena@operalaboratori.com. The open hours of the Cathedral, Library, Museum, Panorama, Crypt and Baptistery are generally the same, except that you may not enter the museum less than 1 hour before closing time. Complete opening hours information here; "Festive" means Sundays and church holidays. Exclusive of Sundays and holidays (festivi), everything opens at 10:30 and closes at 19:00 between 1 March and 2 November and at 17:30 between 3 November and 28 February, except that the closing hour is 18:00 between 26 December and 6 January. Siena's magnificent black and white Italian Romanesque cathedral includes the Libreria Piccolomini, with splendid frescoes by Pinturicchio, the lovely Baptistery (separate entrance and charge), and an attached museum (separate entrance and charge, see below). Also marvel at the inlaid floors; even as they are sometimes covered for protection, a section is always left visible. At the height of Siena's power it was decided to enlarge the cathedral so that the existing Duomo would become merely its transept; the money ran out very soon after one of the new outer walls, which is still standing as a reminder of the grandiose undertaking, was completed. It is possible to see all of this in one day, but expect it to take at least the better part of an afternoon. The ticket options are confusing. The Opa Si Pass (€1 Nov-24 Dec €8, 18 Aug-27 Oct €15, €13 at other times) is valid for 3 days, and allows admission to the Duomo, including the Libreria Piccolomini and Crypt, the Baptistery, Museo dell'Opera and Facciatone. A €20 "all inclusive" pass will get you access to the Duomo and to the "Porta del Cielo", the which provides great views of the interior of the church from up above, and views of the city from its roof. Otherwise, you can see details of costs for individual tickets here. (updated Oct 2019)
  • 6 Museo dell'Opera del Duomo (Museum of the Works of the Cathedral), Piazza del Duomo, 9, ☏ +39 055 230 2885. M-Sa 09:00-19:30, Su 09:00-13:30. This museum includes the famous Maestà by Duccio and many other great works by Sienese masters. After you've seen all the art, you can also treat yourself to a beautiful panorama from Il Facciatone, the tower in this building. The view is about as good as the one from the Torre del Mangia in the Palazzo Pubblico but somewhat different, although if you are rushed for time, pick one tower to climb (either one). Admission: €7, or see information on Opa Si Pass above. (updated May 2016)
• 7 Pinacoteca Nazionale di Siena (Siena National Gallery), Via di San Pietro, 29, ☏ +39 0577 286143. M 09:00 - 13:00, Tu-Sa 08:15 - 19:15, Su and holidays: 09:00 - 13:00. The Pinacoteca is full of Sienese paintings from the city's Medieval heyday. Regular admission: €4; reduction for students from the EU aged 18-25 and their docents: €2; free entry to children, and to everyone on the first Sunday of every month. (updated Nov 2015)

Secondary sights

These "secondary sights" are still quite interesting; it's just that the major sights in Siena are so outstanding that visitors in a rush may want to concentrate on them. If you have more time, walk all around town and see these sights, too.

Piazze and palazzi

Piazza Salimbeni

8 Piazza Salimbeni (Salimbeni Palace). (updated Jul 2017)

• This piazza features a 19th-century statue of a locally famous economist and author named Sallustio Bandini, but more so, a set of harmoniously ordered buildings at right angles, forming 3 sides of a rectangle, with the fourth side open.
  • The Palazzo Salimbeni, built in 1472, is the world headquarters of Monte dei Paschi di Siena, the major banking corporation which has a hand in much of the economic and cultural life of the city. The building is well worth looking at from the outside. Inside, there are interesting documents showing the history of banking, plus a collection of paintings and other artwork, but you would have to request permission in advance if you'd like to have a chance to view them.
  • Immediately to your right while facing the Palazzo Salimbeni is the glorious Palazzo Spannocchi (built in 1473), with its row of fantastic carvings of the heads of Roman emperors in stone near the roof.
  • The Palazzo Santucci, to your left when facing the Palazzo Salimbeni, was built in the 16th century.

Via di Città

• 9 Palazzo Chigi-Saracini (Accademia Chigiana), Via di Città, 89, ☏ +39 0577 22091. This is another Gothic palazzo, or at least its façade remains Gothic, though the interior was modernized in the late 18th and early 19th centuries. The building since 1932 has housed housed the Accademia Chigiana, the city's conservatory of music. Quite a number of beautiful paintings are part of its collection, but the rooms that house the artwork are often used for classes and rehearsals or simply locked up when not in use, so if you would like to view its holdings, you will probably need to get permission in advance and make an appointment. (updated Nov 2015)

Piazza Tolomei

This piazza, a widening of the Banchi di Sopra, features a statue of the Lupa Senese (Sienese She-Wolf), a symbol adopted from Rome, suspended in the air as if on a stone pole.

• 10 Palazzo Tolomei (Tolomei Palace), Piazza Tolomei 9. This lovely palazzo was built between 1205 and 1212 by the Tolomei family when the area was outside of the city walls. Now, it is well within the walls and on the way from the Campo to Piazza Salimbeni. (updated May 2016)

Religious buildings

Via dei Servi, with Santa Maria dei Servi in the distance

• 11 Basilica Cateriniana San Domenico, Piazza San Domenico, 1, ☏ +39 0577 286848, info@basilicacateriniana.com. From March to October: 07:00-18:30, from November to February: 09:00-18:00. This large, austere Gothic basilica (usually simply called San Domenico) is not only dedicated to St. Catherine of Siena, along with St. Dominic, but was frequented by her and contains a period portrait of her by Andrea Vanni and relics including her head. It also features several other works by Sienese Gothic painters and impressively high vaulted ceilings. It is quite close to the long-distance bus stop, so if you are going to or from Siena by bus and have the time even to briefly enter this house of prayer, do. Free entry. (updated May 2016)
• 12 Basilica of San Francesco, Piazza San-Francesco 6, ☏ +39 0577 49406. This Romanesque church was turned into a Gothic one and contains some notable Gothic art, including a moving fresco of the Crucifixion by Pietro Lorenzetti and one of the Martyrdom of Five Franciscan Brothers by his brother, Ambrogio. (updated May 2016)
• 13 Birth House of St. Catherine of Siena (Santuario di Santa Caterina). In this house lived the 14th-century mystic who is one of the principal patron saints of Italy. If you are a devotee, it is natural to combine a visit here with a visit to San Domenico, but even if you are not a devotee, if you have the time, you are likely to find your visit interesting. (updated May 2016)
• 14 Sant'Agostino, Piazza Sant'Agostino. Built as a Gothic church, it was damaged by fire in 1747 and was renovated with some Baroque additions and further added to in the 19th century. However, the main draws for the lover of paintings are from well before the fire and include an Enthroned Madonna with Child and Saints by the 14th-century Ambrogio Lorenzetti and a Crucifixion by the 15th-16th-century Perugino. (updated May 2016)
• 15 Santa Maria dei Servi, Piazza Manzoni (About 650 m uphill from the Piazza del Campo, in the direction of the Porta Romana). This Romanesque church is much smaller than the huge edifices of the Duomo and San Domenico, but it contains some notable art including a Coronation of the Virgin and Saints by Bernardino Fungai, a Massacre of the Innocents attributed to Pietro Lorenzetti and collaborators and an Adoration of the Shepherds by Taddeo Di Bartolo. (updated May 2016)

Fountains

• 16 Fontebranda, Via di Fontebranda (150 m downhill from the Santuario di Santa Caterina). This medieval fountain is the oldest in Siena, built in its current form in 1246. It is the original, not a replica. Not surprisingly, it is somewhat worn and overgrown in places, but still impressive and beautiful, and would be a top sight in most other cities. (updated May 2016)

Museums

• 17 Santa Maria della Scala, Piazza del Duomo 1 (Right across the piazza from the Duomo). M W 10:30-16:30; Th-Su 10:30-18:30. This medieval hospital, now a museum, is chock-full of medieval art including altarpieces by Bartolommeo Bulgarini and frescoes by the Lorenzetti brothers and Simone Martini. Also part of the complex (no additional admission charge) is the Museo Archeologico Nazionale, which exhibits some important archeological finds from the area, plus items from public and private collections of antiquities that are mostly from Siena and Chiusi. €9; reduced €8. (updated May 2016)

Do

Fontebranda

Events

• Palio Horse Race. A horse race like nowhere else, between the 17 contrade of Siena, is run in the Piazza del Campo on July 2 and August 16. All Sienese are affiliated with one of the contrade, to which a typical Sienese feels loyal with a strength perhaps surpassed only by their loyalty to their family. Since the 11th century, the Sienese have conducted festivals every year in which the contrade compete for renown (and in times gone by, actual political power) through contests such as flag throwing, horse racing and even fist fights. The fist fights no longer happen (a heavy police presence in the weeks prior to the contest sees to that), but the spirit of competition between contrade is still fierce. The race is held in late evening but the whole day of the race is taken up with processions through the streets of the various contrade competing in the particular race (only ten can compete at any time for safety reasons). 
• Classical concerts during the summer at the Accademia Musicale Chigiana, and at various locations in the city during the Chigiana International Festival.
• Siena Jazz Festival. During summer. 

Walk

Climb the "Torre del Mangia", the tall bell tower overlooking the Piazza del Campo. There is an entrance fee (€8), and only 25 people are let in at a time, so there may be a wait. Not for the faint of heart or claustrophobic, it's about a 300-step hike and you are obliged to leave bags and purses in a locker at the ticket desk inside the tower itself. The panoramic view is exhilarating and well worth the climb. (Excellent though different views of the city are also available from the 'Panoramio' by the cathedral, entry to which is purchased as part of the cathedral museum ticket. If you will be in Siena for a while, the two views are different enough to warrant seeing both.)

By all means, walk on the Banchi di Sopra and Via di Città above the Campo, but also in any other part of the centro storico. There are loads of beautiful buildings, big and small, delightful little piazette, fountains and contrada churches, and many views. Local life in the evening typically revolves around the passeggio, the nightly walk through town, which often includes some gelato, macedonia di frutta con gelato, or/and drinks at one end or the other. So do as the locals do and enjoy a walk through this beautiful city.

Tourist information is located in the Piazza del Campo.

Tours

Take a tour of an Etruscan tomb, visit a winery for a wine tasting, sample regional food, and visit a local village. There are many such tours available.

Buy

Part of the gorgeous interior of the Baptistery

Siena is large enough still to have items made in the local area, stemming from its history of craftmanship, so you will find some items not readily available anywhere else. Fine paper, neckties, fabrics, embroidery/tapestry, glazed terracotta, gold jewelry, and of course local food and wine are some of the distinctive items produced locally.

There is a great shop on Via di Cittả with leather luggage, purses, bags, etc.

A huge market is held every Wednesday around the Fortezza Mediceana from about 07:00 to about 14:00.

Siena has popular stores such as Furla, United Colors of Benetton, Upim and Intimissimi.

Due to the city's status as a major tourist attraction there are plenty of newsagents selling international papers and magazines. A good example is the shop opposite the church on Via San Marco in the Snail Contrada, which has a friendly and helpful multilingual owner, who also runs an internet access point.

• Olive Oil. If you have a car then you can drive out to the Montestigliano Olive estate 12 km outside the walls, perched high on a hill surrounded by olive trees. You can taste and buy their single estate, extra virgin olive oil (as well as a few other goodies) to take with you or have shipped. There is also a lovely courtyard where you can sit and enjoy a glass of wine and admire the view. 

Learn

The wonderful Siena Jazz Music School is housed in the old fortress.

Siena is also well known for its Italian language schools and several prestigious universities.

• Saena Iulia, Via Monna Agnese 20, ☏ +39 0577 44155. M-F 09:00-18:00. One of the better private schools in Siena that provide courses to people who want to learn Italian. 

Eat

Panforte tipo margherita

• Excellent gelato can be found just off the Campo at gelateria "Il Gelato". Ask for Romaney.
• For something more substantial, "La Chiacchiera" next to the House of St Catherine is an excellent source of typical Tuscan cuisine; the pici (thick, homemade noodles) are superb.
• 1 Osteria Nonna Gina, Piano dei Mantellini, 2, ☏ +39 0577 287247. Tu-Su 12:30-14:30, 19:30-22:30. Outside the Due Porte. 
• 2 Osteria del Gatto, Via di San Marco, 8 (San Marco quarter), ☏ +39 0577 287133, marco@osteriadelgatto.com. M-Sa 12:15-14:30, 19:45-22:00. Not far from the above Nonna Gina. Menu will be in Italian but the waiters and the cooks will be available for a translation "on the fly". Fish is served one week a month. If you happen to be there in that week, don't miss the "Tonno alla Mediterranea" (tuna fish in the Mediterranean way). €18-28. 
• 3 Trattoria la Torre, Via Salicotto, 7, ☏ +39 0577 287548. F-W 12:00-15:00, 19:00-22:00. This is also an excellent restaurant, in the contrada of the same name. 
• Osteria Sotto le Fonti, Via Esterna Fontebranda, 114, ☏ +39 0577-226446. Restaurant off the beaten path, with owners who serve you personally; the waitress speaks fluently English & German (very rare in Italy) and knows how to recommend you wine, as she is also a wine tour guide. Is a pleasant walk downhill shortly outside the gates of the city, allowing you to look up at the top of the Duomo. 
• 4 Bar Pasticceria Nannini, Via Banchi di Sopra, 24, ☏ +39 0577 286050. M-F 07:00-22:30, Sa Su 07:00-23:30. A bakery and cafe with an excellent selection of Tuscan pastries: Ricciarelli, Cavalucci, Cantucci, Panforte, etc. The ingredients of same are prominently displayed in most cases, making Nannini a very attractive option for the travelling vegan. 
• 5 Antica Osteria da Divo, Via Franciosa, 25, ☏ +39 0577 286054. W-M 12:00-14:30, 19:00-22:30. Has a splendid atmosphere in a medieval undercroft environment and excellent Italian cuisine served in a decorative haute style. (updated Nov 2016)

Sienese specialties include:

• Panforte - a unique kind of dense cake, made of honey, flour, almonds, candied fruits, a secret blend of spices, etc. Tipo Margherita is the classic, but several other types are made. Panforte is commercially manufactured only in Siena and neighboring Monteriggioni, its loyal ally in Medieval wars with Florence. The most famous brand of panforte is Sapori. You can buy panforte most cheaply in local supermarkets, but don't miss a trip to Nannini on Banchi di Sopra (see above), a pleasant caffé where you can buy not only their panforte by weight but also many other types of unusual pastries and so forth.
• Ricciarelli - small almond paste cakes.

Drink

Enoteca

• Ristorante Sansedoni in Birreria (La Birreria), Piazza Il Campo, 58. Best priced drinks and food in Il Campo. Sit outside at a table in the central Piazza. (updated Nov 2016)
• Barone Rosso, Via Dei Termini N° 9. Great live music, but a bit on the seedy side. 
• The Walkabout Pub, Via Pantaneto 90. Cool pub with Australian ambiance doing cool music. 

Also, in the fortress is the excellent Enoteca Italiana, a wine bar and shop located in the fortress' vaults. The Enoteca Italiana stocks an extensive selection of wines produced throughout Italy.

Additionally, since Siena is in the Chianti country, you can buy bottles of good Chianti wines at any market that sells food and wine.

Sleep

The Fonte Gaia in the Piazza del Campo

Camping

• 1 Siena Colleverde, Strada di Scacciapensieri 47 (The campsite can be reached by taking bus 8 from the city centre and asking to be let off at camping Colleverde (the stop itself is actually quite near the entrance to the site, there's a good and cheap pasticceria/bar nearby as well). You can walk but it's quite strenuous to do so.), ☏ +39 0577 332 545, +39 0577 334 080, fax: +39 0577 334 005, info@sienacamping.com. About 3 km east from the city centre and up the hill from the rail station. It is quite a large campsite and has all the facilities and a swimming pool. As of 2012, you can rent cabins with toilet/shower for 2/3/4/5 persons (€65/80/105/115 per night, maybe cheaper when booked through traveling sites). 
• Alternatively, you could camp at Montagnola, Strada della Montagnola 39, Sovicille, ☏ +39 0577 314473, lamontagnola@camping.it. Beyond the small village of Sovicille about 12 km from Siena with regular bus connections. It's a decent site with basic facilities but quite friendly and helpful staff. 

Budget

• 2 Agriturismo Monaciano, Tenuta di Monaciano, Ponte a Bozzone, ☏ +39 0577 356805. Tuscany self catering accommodations in the Chianti hills 7 km from Siena with swimming pool, ping-pong and a romantic park. Monaciano has many farmhouses that may comfortably accommodate large families or large groups of friends. 
• Santuario S. Caterina (Alma Domus), Via Camporegio, 37, ☏ +39 0577 44177, fax: +39 0577 47601. Run by a nunnery, this modest hotel near the Basilica di S. Domenico provides sanctuary to weary travellers. Curfew is 23:00. €60-90. 
• La Villa di STR, Viale Vittorio Veneto, 11, ☏ +39 0577 1882807, info@lavilladistr.it. 3-star hotel that offers free shuttle service for the Spa San Giovanni Rapolano Terme. €50-90. 

Mid-range

A view up the Via di Città, showing the Palazzo Chigi-Saracini on the left

• Albergo Bernini, ☏ +39 0577-289047, hbernin@tin.it. Via della Sapienza n°15 (just down the street from San Domenico) (use Italian or simple English if you email) - dated but clean rooms in a tiny, centrally-located inn. A truly friendly older couple owns and runs it, and lives on the property (they leave their door open often). The great thing is the view of Siena - spectacular, as you look across the unobstructed valley and almost down at the Piazza del Campo and Duomo. The two rooms at the back have the view. They also have good tips on the best inexpensive dining, which is fabulous. At midnight they lock the doors and go to bed. Double with bath €85, without bath €65. 
• Piccolo Hotel Etruria. Via Donzelle 3. You can't beat the location; it's just a couple of steps up from the Campo. Clean, renovated, has a nice common room with a small balcony right over Banchi di Sotto - the final leg of the route towards the Campo taken by the constant parades of the contrada which won the latest palio (these last for a few weekends after the event, and can mean a group of thoroughly drunk stragglers accompanied by costumed drummers and banner-wavers at 2 in the morning - this is not frowned upon by the locals); as you go up the stairs to the rooms there is also a display of the riding accessories of the Civetta, the small but very proud contrada where the hotel is located (it finally won the Palio in August of '09 after waiting for more than 30 years, earning in the process the dubious distinction of being the nonna, or "Grandma", as the contrada who haven't won for the longest time). Doubles with bath around €90 in season; curfew at 01:00. Also, a slightly more downmarket cousin Tre Donzelle next door up at #5; a (smaller, more spartan) room will run you €10-15 cheaper. Skip the restaurant in the basement, unless you are after the heavily promoted barrel-vault interior; food is unexceptional and overpriced. 
• NH Excelsior, ☏ +39 0577 382111. Piazza La Lizza. Situated inside the walls, the NH Excelsior is elegant and pleasant, and has easy access to the city’s main attractions. The hotel, which has been completely refurbished, has 129 rooms all of which offer comfort and a modern design. From €100. (updated Jul 2017)
• The Hotel Minerva. Via Garibaldi, 72, inside the walls of Siena. There are 59 bedrooms with bathrooms, phone, TV, safe deposit box, air conditioning, fridge-bar, laundry service, fast internet facility. The bedrooms have a view of old Siena. A meeting room is available. Garage. Ten minutes' walk from Piazza del Campo. 500 m from the railway station. 
• Le Meridiane, Via Fracassi 3, ☏ +39 0577 280000, fax: +39 0577 288484, info@lemeridiane.com. Le Meridiane is across the valley from the city centre and provides a lovely view of Siena, which can be reached by bus, by taxi or (during daylight and with good shoes) by foot. Several types of unit are available for a range of prices. A small kitchen is provided, and parking is available. 
• Borgo Grondaie, Strada delle Grondaie, 15, ☏ +39 0577 332539, fax: +39 0577 335761. A typical farmhouse hotel with swimming pool. It offers a selection of studio apartments and en-suite rooms in a country and friendly atmosphere. 
• Chiostro del Carmine, Via della Diana 4, ☏ +39 0577 223476, fax: +39 0577 222556. 4-star hotel in historical residence, Siena centre. Rooms from €99. 
• Montaperti Hotel, ☏ +39 0577 36741. About 7 km east of Siena, close to the SS73 highway. Situated in the middle of a rural landscape next to a vineyard and a small village. Convenient only if you have access to a car, in which case, it's easy to get to and from Siena. 
• Villa Agostoli, Strada degli Agostoli, 107, ☏ +39 057744392, fax: +39 0577 46050, villaagostoli@gmail.com. Beautiful holiday house pet friendly with pool and vacation rental apartments near Siena. 
• Hotel Italia, Viale Camillo Benso Conte di Cavour, 67, ☏ +39 0577 44248, fax: +39 0577 44554, info@hotelitalia-siena.it. 3-star hotel. The hotel has a Love Room for romantic moments. 
• Hotel Garden, Via Custoza, 2, ☏ +39 0577 567111, fax: +39 0577 46050, info@gardenhotel.it. 4-stars hotel with restaurant, outdoor pool and panoramic terrace. With Hotel Italia and Villa Agostoli, the Hotel Garden is one of the hotels in Siena of the company Siena Inns. 

Splurge

Palazzo Sansedoni

• Borgo Scopeto Relais. Beautiful 4-star hotel and restaurant immersed in vineyards and olive groves of the Tuscan countryside 12 km from Siena. Also does weddings and meetings. 
• Il Boschetto - 4 km from Siena, 9-room villa with pool, private garden, large living room with open fireplace, satellite-TV and video, 5 large bedrooms.
• Campo Regio Relais. A bed and breakfast-style hotel, renovated in 2005, in the historical centre of Siena, with amazing view onto the old town. 
• 3 Residence "Villa Il Borghetto", Str. dei Tufi, 64, ☏ +39 3333602417, info@villailborghetto.com. Splendid aristocratic residence originating in the early 1600s, in the countryside, ten minutes' drive from the historical centre of Siena. It incorporates eight spacious apartments, which may host up to seven persons. It is complemented by the Dependence, a holiday home to the same standard. Each of the eight spacious apartments is a synthesis of comfort, elegant style, traditional taste and modern functionality. 

Go next

There are many bus and train connections from Siena to other interesting places in Tuscany. Consider the following for day trips: the Abbey of Monte Oliveto Maggiore in Chiusure, and the towns of San Gimignano, Pienza, Arezzo, Montepulciano, Montalcino, Lucignano, Monteriggioni, and Pisa. Florence is another obvious place to visit. And of course, there is the Chianti country that virtually surrounds Siena and is known worldwide for its wine.

Further afield, there are bus and train connections to Rome and various locations in Umbria.

In addition, there are hot springs in Tuscany, which are popular with Italians and indeed have been enjoyed for thousands of years:

Spas

• Chianciano Terme
• Bagni San Filippo
• Rapolano Terme
• Montepulciano Terme