Tikal

Tikal is a large archaeological site in the Guatemalan department of Petén. During the Classic Period it was one of the largest and most important of the Mayan cities. Today it's one of the most fascinating and enjoyable of the Mayan sites to visit, largely due to its remoteness, but also its jungle setting. Tourists still descend on it by the busload, but it's far from feeling overrun like Chichen Itza and other sites. Some of the temples are still being uncovered, and you can watch archaeologists busy at work. Many others remain completely covered in dirt and plants, much as the first outside explorers found them in the 1800s. Tikal was designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1979.

Understand

The town square still bustles with life today

Tikal was a Maya city of great power and size, the largest of Maya cities during the "Classic Era" over 1000 years ago. Many beautiful buildings have been uncovered and many more wait to be discovered. Amongst the many Maya sites in Central America, Tikal is perhaps the most breathtaking because of the scattered impressive buildings which have been restored in an area with many more ruined buildings still enveloped by the jungle. The sight of the temples poking through the canopy is quite awesome. Though you're not allowed to climb the stone steps of the larger pyramids, several of them have wooden staircases up the back so you can climb to the top and get panoramic views from above the trees.

History

Tikal dates back as far as 400 BC, and grew into one of the largest and most powerful of the Mayan cities during the Classic Period (AD 200-900), during which it had some shared cultural features with far-away Teotihuacan, whose warriors may have founded Tikal's greatest dynasty. It often clashed with other cities in the region, and was eventually defeated by Caracol in 562 AD. King Ah Cacau returned Tikal to its former glory about a century later, and it remained somewhat prosperous until the general decline of Mayan civilization set in around AD 900.

Tikal was eventually abandoned completely, consumed by the jungle, and pretty much fell off the map. Stories of its existence started to surface in the 17th & 18th centuries, but it wasn't until the mid-1800s that expeditions were hatched to explore and map it. After a hundred years of roughing it overland by horse and foot to reach the site, a small airstrip was built in the mid-1950s. The University of Pennsylvania oversaw major excavation work at Tikal during the 1960s, and then in the late 1970s, the government of Guatemala began the work you still see being done today.

During colonial times there was a legend spoken among the indigenous peoples in Guatemala of a lost city inside the jungle where their ancestors had thrived. In 1848 this legend became a reality. Tikal was discovered, arousing curiosity around the world.

Landscape

The experience of visiting Tikal is largely one of hiking through the tropical jungle, with options to take either wide dirt road or small, shaded trails. Lots of very tall trees provide shade even among the wider trails as you trek from one ruin to the next. With the exception of Temple IV, the elevations are small. Very steep wooden staircases lead up to public overlooks from some of the larger. Only minimal disabled access is provided.

Flora and fauna

Careful, an Ocellated Turkey does not give ground easily!

It's often possible to see and hear monkeys in Tikal, especially if you go on a sunny morning or stay in one of the local hotels. Spider monkeys sleep together in large groups, but during the day they disperse in small groups across the park, and can usually at least be found by someone with binoculars and some wildlife spotting skills. It's easiest to see them when they've woken up and are beginning to move around. Howler monkeys are more often heard than seen, but sometimes hang out near the Temple IV overlook. Coatimundis, a racoon-like mammal and brightly colored wild Ocellated Turkeys, are everywhere. Toucans, parrots and other exotic species contribute to the ruins' reputation for wonderful bird watching. Jaguars are rare but have been spotted on the more remote trails - and at least once in early 2024, in the public parking lot!

Climate

It's sunny, hot and humid in the northern hemisphere, winter so dress lightly and bring water since you will be sweating climbing up the many steep steps of the monuments which are spread out. In the rainy season, during the northern hemisphere summer, it may rain all afternoon or even all day, but temperatures will still be quite hot. The trails can be muddy in a few places but there is plenty of shade under the canopy of trees. Winter nights can be cool. Brings lots of water or sports drinks - dehydration and heat stroke are the biggest dangers here. There are a few vendors along the main west-east walking route if you need to get more to drink.

Website

Tikal Archaeological Site website

Get in

Tikal is located about 1.5-2 hours' drive from Flores, which hosts the nearest airport. The airstrip at Tikal is no longer in use, and cannot be used even for private planes or in emergencies, as it's now overgrown with trees.

Buses and minibuses come in from all surrounding areas on a well maintained, fully-paved road, and you can also drive there with your own vehicle. Many visitors do single-day tours from Flores, but there are also some accommodation options at the park for those who want to stay longer or arrive earlier.

As of June 2024, for visitors with normal day tickets (see below), the main entrance to the archeological site opens at 06:00 and closes by 17:00 and you are expected to be out by 17:30. Staff roam the park around 17:00 looking for people without an evening bracelet, and will escort you out, although the official website says that entry is from 06:00 to 18:00.

By bus/shuttle

At one point, the San Juan Travel Agency had a virtual monopoly on the minibuses that would pick you up from your hotel in Flores in the morning on the hour and cost Q120 roundtrip or Q60 one way leaving hourly from 04:00 to 10:00, and then possibly one more at 14:00 (travel time: 75 mins). Return trips are at 12:30, and then hourly from 14:00 to 18:00. As of June 2024, some hostels are selling round-trip tickets for Q100, for shuttles apparently leaving at Flores Island near the bridge.

Regular second class buses leave from Flores (at the new bus terminal in southern Santa Elena) to Tikal for Q50 each way. Since this adds up to about the same round-trip price as you would pay to leave from the island with a tourist shuttle, the only reason to do this is if you're going one-way or happen to be staying in Santa Elena. At one point, the scheduled departures were at 06:00, 06:30, 07:00, 08:30, 10:00, 11:30 and 12:30, arriving two hours later. Once-or-twice per day buses to Uaxactún, one of which leaves the Santa Elena old station a few blocks from the bridge around 2:00pm, can also drop you in Tikal for the same price. Some local buses may not run on Sundays. Beware about buying a round trip ticket from "Exploradores de la Cultura Maya" from the Santa Elena bus station as they may sell you a return ticket for a bus that doesn't exist.

Fees and permits

The following ticket prices apply to foreign citizens (make sure to select extranjeros if buying online). Local Guatemalans can enter for a reduced price. Your tickets will be checked and traded for a bracelet at the garita de control at the entrance to the ruins (el sitio), and the staff at the ticket booth taquilla on the road in may also want to see them.

How to Purchase

It's recommended that you buy your tickets online before leaving Flores on the official website. There is also a ticket office on the way to the ruins, but it may not accept credit/debit cards, and it is 12 km before reaching the main part of the park. They also reportedly can have problems with their ticketing system due to electrical or cell service outages.

There are no ticket sales at the entrance to the ruins. Furthermore, as of June 2024, there is no cell signal in Tikal, except sometimes at certain spots inside the ruins, so if you need to buy a ticket for another day or special entry once you're already there, the only way to do it is by finding wifi at one of the restaurants nearby (unless you feel like driving, catching a bus, or hitchhiking the 12 km back to the ticket booth). There are also no ATMs in Tikal, so be sure to bring enough cash to cover your tickets if you didn't buy them online, plus any souvenirs or food you might want to buy (though the nicer restaurants accept cards), and for transport if you're visiting by bus or taxi and don't have a round-trip ticket.

If you'll be buying tickets at the ticket booth on the road in, bring your passport. If you're buying tickets online, you'll be asked to provide your passport number, but as of June 2024 no one is checking passports for online tickets when you actually arrive.

Ticket Pricing

As of June 2024, the foreigner cost for a normal full-day ticket (valid from 06:00 to 17:00) to explore the ruins is Q150. A separate ticket for early entry (amanecer) (from 04:00) is Q100 - guided tour required, not included in the price. This is the only way to watch the sunrise over the pyramids, though remember it might be cloudy. There is reportedly a cheap colectivo (walk-up) guided tour that leaves from the entrance at 04:20. Similarly, another separate Q100 ticket is required if you plan to stay for dusk/sunset (atardecer), and it's unclear whether or not a guide is required for this. You may be required to show a normal day ticket alongside these special entry tickets, even if you only plan to be in the park for dawn or dusk hours.

It had been reported that tickets bought in after 15:00 or 16:00 were also valid for the next day, but as of June 2024, this seems no longer to be the case.

Entry to the museum is a separate Q30 for foreign citizens (June 2024), and apparently also needs to be bought online or in advance.

Get around

Map of the site core

The visitors center in 2015

The restaurants, souvenir shops, visitor center, museum, and hotels can be reached by car but are all within about 5 minutes' walk of each other and the entrance to the ruins.

Once you enter the ruins, walking is the only way to get around, as only staff and vendor vehicles are allowed inside. The distances can be on the long side - walking from the entrance straight to the far end of the park, where the must-see Temple IV viewdeck is located, takes about 40 minutes even if you don't stop for the other must-see sights in between. The Gran Plaza with the most famous pyramids is about halfway in between, and there are tons of other interesting ruins on side paths, some straying as much as a half-hour walk or more off of the main axis. Some routes are small forest hiking paths (usually well-maintained), but more of them are car-sized hard-packed dirt/gravel roads, many corresponding to the original limestone causeways used by the ancient Maya to traverse the city.

To see just about everything, you would probably need all day from morning to evening, and it's unlikely you'd manage it one day without getting tired out from the heat. But the most important sites can be visited in a few hours. In case you have a very short amount of time or limited energy, paying a guide could be a useful way to make sure you catch the highlights.

• 1 Maps are available for cash outside the Visitor's Center and from a dude who hangs out where you get your tickets checked, or for free at the government tourist information center in Flores. Or just use your phone to take a photo of the signs with the same map on it, just past the ticket checkpoint.

See

• 1 Great Plaza (roughly in the middle of the ruins area). Flanked on the east and west sides by two great temple-pyramids, the most famous and widely-photographed pyramids of Tikal. You can't climb the stone steps of the pyramids, but Temple II has a wooden stairway running up the back that you can use to reach a high-up viewdeck with a great view of the plaza. 
• 2 North Acropolis (on the north side of the Great Plaza). One of the most studied architectural groups in the Maya area.  
• 3 Central Acropolis (on the south side of the Great Plaza). An interesting large building complex built on a hill.  
• 4 Mundo Perdido (Lost World Complex) (to the west of the Plaza of the Seven Temples). It is the largest ceremonial complex dating from the Preclassic period at Tikal. It features a medium-sized pyramid with a wooden staircase ll the way to the top. This is the biggest structure you can go to the very top of, and the second best view in the park.  
• 5 Temple IV. The tallest temple in the park, measuring 70 m (230 ft) and also on higher ground than most of the others. Wooden stairs lead up to a viewpoint near the top, which features the most expansive view of Tikal, looking out over jungle as far as the eye can see. A brief shot in the original 1977 Star Wars movie was filmed here, showing spaceships entering the atmosphere of jungle moon Yavin IV on their way to the rebel base.  

You will also see a few black monkeys jumping high up among the trees.

Do

• Tikal Visitor Center. Get your bearings at the visitor center which features a relief map of the ancient site, as well as a restaurant, restrooms, gift shops and a post-office 
• Stelae Museums. Cost for non-locals is Q30 as of June 2024, and must be paid online or at the ticket booth 12 km before the entrance. 
• Tikal sunrise tour. Either stay in the park (see Sleep section) and book from them, or buy a tour from Flores, or also ask your hotel. Tour is needed as a guide is required to be able to enter the park at sunrise. Ticket is Q100 in addition to your Q150 park entry, and doesn't include the guide fee. Must be purchased when buying tickets online or at the booth 12 km up the road. There is reportedly a cheap colectivo (walk-up) tour that leaves from the entrance of the ruins at 04:20.
• 1 Sylvanus G. Morley Museum (Tikal Museum). Tickets sold at park southern entrance.
• Jungle canopy tour, ☏ +502 7926-2411 (Reservations). A thrill ride along cables slung between tall trees in the jungle just outside the gate to Tikal National Park (not within walking distance from the main park area). You sit in a harness, slide from tree to tree, then climb up the tree to the next platform for the next cable. The highest trees poke above most of the canopy so you can see a long way. The longest cable ride is some 150 m. 
• Especialistas en Ecotourismo. 
• Uaxactun. There is a bus to Uaxactun, a more distant ancient Maya city and historic modern village, that passes the entrance to the ruins once a day. Be aware that you'll probably need to stay in Uaxactun for two nights, and that everything there is cash-only (no ATM). See that article for more information. 
• Hiking. As of June 2024, the only hiking trail outside the ticketed area, the Sendero Caoba Felipe, is closed to the public. The giant old-growth mahogany tree at the far end of the route has lost its top, taking the viewdeck with it. You may be fined if caught trying to walk it. Staff also see the closure of this relatively remote, 6-km trail as a safety issue, after one lone tourist died of heatstroke hiking in Tikal in 2022, and another disappeared in 2023. However, there's plenty of hiking to do within the main area of the ruins, including some short but barely-traveled small jungle trails for those who seek them out. 

Buy

Altar 5 is not for sale

There are no ATMs in Tikal, so be sure to bring enough cash to cover your tickets if you're not buying them online, plus equipment rental if you're staying in the campground, plus any souvenirs or food you might want to buy (though the nicer restaurants accept cards), and for transport if you're visiting by bus or taxi and don't have a round-trip ticket. If you need to conserve cash, consider staying at the hotels in Tikal, and only eating at the nicer restaurants, even though that's more expensive, because they accept payment by card. In case you're continuing to Uaxactun, be aware that you'll need cash for everything there too, including accommodations and food. For a multi-day trip to Tikal and Uaxactun, even carrying Q1000 in cash can be cutting it very close.

The Visitors' Center and its immediate area hosts a number of souvenir shops, selling T-shirts, assorted local handicrafts, snacks, drinks, and numerous guide books in English and Spanish of Tikal, the Maya, and Guatemala. Guatemalan highland’s textiles are also sold in a small rancho near the parking area.

Eat

The Visitors' Center has a restaurant offering food and drink until 16:00, though it's on the expensive side. At one point, the Jungle Lodge reportedly offered dinners for guests, and some travellers reported that it is better than the Tikal Inn.

There are several comedores (food stalls/cheap diners) along the road just before and across from the visitor center. These are by far the cheapest option, though still not quite cheap by Guatemalan standards, and they likely don't accept credit cards and there's no ATM, so make sure you brought enough cash. Several of them close around 17:00, with the farthest-out on, Comedor Imperio Maya, usually open until 18:00.

The restaurant at the Hotel Jaguar, which is open to everyone, may be cheaper than the visitors centre, and as of June 2024 is quite a bit more expensive than the comedores, but also better, and offers card payment and free WiFi. It's open until 20:30.

Within the ruins, vendors at the three designated rest areas along the main east-west walking route sell small bags of chips and cookies in addition to bottled drinks.

Drink

There are all sorts of drinks (cans and bottles of soda, juice, and water) available at kiosks in the visitor center reasonably priced considering that they could charge much more. If you're buying orange juice at the Jaguar, Inn buy the bottled stuff (Q6 - Jugo De La Granja), as it is likely the same as the stuff in a glass but half the price.

Around the Grand Plaza small covered shops offer water. These close pretty early so plan ahead and carry some extra water in the afternoon.

The restaurant at the Jaguar Inn, which is open to everyone, also sells craft beer.

Sleep

Many people prefer to stay in the park and wake up with the jungle to the sounds of birds and nature rather than the vehicle sounds of Flores, and staying here one of the ways to be in the park for sunrise. Unfortunately the park options are not the cheapest, and demand often exceeds supply. As of June 2024, prices started at around Q500 (possibly a low-season rate). Many visitors instead choose to stay in the cute historical center of Flores island and hour or two away, which has many affordable hostels, and take an early shuttle bus to the park. There are also several cheap lodges lakeside in El Remate, in between Flores and Tikal, where your hotel can arrange a shuttle pick up for you.

Hotels

Three hotels next to the park entrance provide somewhat basic but decent accommodation, all within very short walking distance to the entrance to the ruins. All three cater to Western travellers and their amenities and prices reflect this. For those on a shoestring, try asking if you can rent a hammock, or just a spot to hang your own, under a palapa roof.

• Jaguar Inn. Clean, simple rooms. 
• Jungle Lodge. Nice hotel with semi-luxurious rooms and a pool, located slightly deeper in the jungle than the others. 
• Tikal Inn. Simple rooms and bungalows with private bathrooms, and a nice swimming pool. 

Camping

• Area de Campamento. Check-out: 6am for visitors renting equipment; officially 10am. The official park campground, located just off the parking lot. Camping fee of Q50 must be paid in advance, either online or at the ticket booth 12km away (hint: if you're already there, get a drink at the Jaguar Inn restaurant across the street and use their wifi). Though the ticket website appears to say you need a Q150 park ticket for the same day in addition to your camping permit, this is not true: if you're arriving in the afternoon to camp but not entering the ruins, you only need a park ticket for the next day. The campground manager rents hammocks (Q60 + Q15 for much-needed mosquito net) and tents (Q150, including setup service and a thick mat); this must be paid on-site in cash. There are about ten well-built camp shelters with raised concrete pads, which offer very good protection from the rain and midday sun and come at no extra cost. The campground a pretty nice new bathroom and shower block (cold showers) with solar lighting, but make sure that they leave it open for you, as the staff sometimes locks it up when no one is staying there. No electrical plugs or internet at the campground, but the Jaguar Inn restaurant across the road has wifi and phone charging stations that are free if you eat or drink there. Q50 permit, not including equipment rental. (updated Jun 2024)

• Jaguar Inn. It has also offered camping space and equipment rental, for just a bit more money than the official campground, and appears to still have a small camp shelter area with tents already set up. Inquire directly for updated information (contact info easily found online). Presumably can be booked onsite, and probably accepts payment by card. There are a lot of insects that bite: mosquitoes aren't that bad during the dryer months but there are other nasty bugs around. Keep the fly wire screen on your tent zipped tight and get in and out of your tent as quickly as possible. A can of bug spray would be very helpful. There are a lot of bees on the lawn in the camp area so wear something on your feet. (updated Jun 2024)

Connect

There is no cell signal in Tikal, except sometimes at certain points within the ruins, mainly at the viewdeck atop Temple IV (at the farthest point of the park from the entrance), and usually yat the ticket booth on the road to Tikal, 12km before you reach the ruins.

If you're staying at one of the Tikal hotels, which are all located just outside the ruins, they will probably have free WiFi for you. But if you're on a day trip or camping, you can only access the internet at restaurant by the visitor center (Q10/hour, Q30/day) or at restaurant of Hotel Jaguar (free for paying customers). These wifi networks seem to remain active into the evening, though you'll need to acquire access before they close (16:00 for the visitor center restaurant, 20:30pm for the Hotel Jaguar). Campers should know that neither wifi signal reaches the campground, and that the park guards may not want you want you wandering the grounds after 21:00.

Be aware that this is a remote jungle location, and it's possible wifi could be unavailable if there's a problem with electricity or the satellite internet link.

Stay safe

As of June 2024, robberies do not seem to be an issue anymore, either at Tikal or on the way to it. Though park staff may scare you about jaguar attacks (technically possible), the main danger is dehydration or heatstroke from the extreme heat and humidity. Make sure to carry lots of water - you can buy it at a few points along the main east-west path of the ruins, but it's probably cheaper at the shops just outside.

The park staff have been spooked by a few incidents and close calls in the early 2020s: a hiker died from heatstroke in 2022, a middle-aged birdwatcher disappeared in 2023, and a family of French tourists got lost for two days in the jungle later that year. Because of this, the park recommends taking a guide, but they do not require it. However, the trails are very well signed, and the reality is that you won't get dangerously lost as long as you stay on obvious trails and don't pass any "no passing"/"no trespassing" signs.

The park guards may also not allow you to wander the parking lot and public roads at night between 21:00 and 06:00, though if you have a very good reason to be out, you're encouraged to go straight to the guard post at the roundabout and ask them for an exception.

It's unlikely you'd want to jump into any of the shallow, muddy ponds around the park, but be aware that this is considered dangerous, since there are usually crocodiles in them.

There can be a lot of bugs in Tikal, including the type of mosquitoes that carries dengue fever; bringing insect repellent is strongly recommended, especially if you'll be out in the evening or early morning (but you can be bitten in shady areas even in the day).

Go next

If you are going to Belize, you have few options. To leave directly from Tikal, you'll have to hire a cab all the way to the border, which can be pricey. From there you have a good jumping off point to San Ignacio. You can return to Flores to catch a bus, but most departures are in the morning and early afternoon. The best option is to plan to return to Flores and stay the night before moving east.