Tlaltizapán
Tlaltizapán is a small town in the Central Mexico state of Morelos. Historical travelers will appreciate its storied past with a 16th century monastery, a number of other historic churches, and the site of a notorious Mexican Revolution battle in which Carrancista troops committed atrocities on locals. The charming historic centro is quiet and peaceful today and is popular as a weekend getaway. It is one of Mexico's designated Pueblos Magicos.
Understand
editHistory
editTlaltizapán is a very old town, having been originally settled long before the Aztecs built their empire in Central Mexico. The town was inhabited by a mixed race indigenous group that was related to those who originally settled Xochimilco around 900 AD. In the 14th century, Tlaltizapan was dominated by the Aztecs and paid tribute to them until the time of the Spanish conquest.
By 1535, conquistadors had arrived in Tlaltizapán, establishing several haciendas under colonial rule with the Dominicans building churches and evangelizing the indigenous populations. One of the earliest haciendas was San Jose de Acamilpa, founded in 1604 to grow sugarcane for the production of schnapps. One of the most powerful haciendas in the area was San Miguel Treinta, built in 1732. Other colonial haciendas included Ticuman, San Francisco, and Xochimancas.
During the Mexican Revolution, Tlaltizapan was a stronghold of the Zapatista army of the south. The town suffered immensely during the Revolution when thousands of locals were killed by the Carranzista faction and thousands more fled the fighting, leading to a 60% population loss, largely in 1916 when Carrancistas killed 200 locals on June 2 and another 250 on August 13 of that year, along with more massacres in September.
Get in
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By bus
editFrom Cuernavaca, Pullman de Morelos operates hourly buses to the nearby town of Zacatepec. The 40-minute bus ride costs M$60 (May 2024) and takes 40 minutes. In Zacatepec, you can take a taxi the last 10 km to Tlatizapan.
Get around
editThe town is quite small, compact, and easy to walk around. You'll probably want a taxi to get to Las Estaces or other places that are further from the historic centro. Hotel desk staff can call a taxi for you or you can usually find them at a sitio near the Parque Central on Av. Mártires 13 de Agosto. As in most small Mexican towns, rideshare apps are rarely useful.
See
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- 1 Ex-Convento de San Miguel Arcangel, Vicente Guerrero, Centro. The monastery of San Miguel Arcangel was established by Dominican missionaries in 1535. The church is noted for its simple, austere architecture with relatively little ornamentation. It has a side chapel with an octagonal cupola and a tall, narrow doorway topped by a half-arc with pilasters at the sides and a simple cornice above. The bell tower is similarly stark with a square shape and four open windows. The monastery is a two-story structure with arched patios surrounding a large central atrium containing several statues commemorating heroes of the Mexican Revolution.
- 2 Mausoleum of General Emiliano Zapata, Vicente Geuerrero, Centro (at San Miguel Arcangel). Daily 08:00 - 14:00 and 16:00 - 18:00. Who's buried in Zapata's tomb? You might think that's a joke, or a trick question, but it's neither. The answer is that many people are buried here, though not Emiliano Zapata. The famous hero of the Mexican Revolution, specified in his will that he wanted to be buried in Tlaltizapan where many of his comrades had fallen in battle. Unfortunately, Zapata was assassinated and then buried in Cuautla. Visitors can visit the mausoleum that was intended as Zapata's final resting place, though the tomb is empty. Turns out the Rolling Stones were right, you can't always get what you want. Zapata's fallen comrades who are buried here include at least 5 of his generals and Zapata's brother. Locals profess to want Zapata's remains moved to Tlaltizapan, where they belong.
- 3 Ex Cuartel de Zapata (Zapata's Headquarters), Vicente Guerrero, Centro. Daily 10:30 - 17:00. Regional history museum telling local stories of one of Mexico's most colorful national heroes. This is a former flour mill that was turned into a headquarters of Emiliano Zapata during the Mexican Revolution. Several period artifacts including personal belongings of Zapata. Free.
Do
edit- 1 Las Estacas Parque Natural, Yautepec, ☏ +52 734 120 2916. The north side of Tlaltizapan is an ecological reserve called Sierra de Montenegro - Las Estacas. It is managed by the Morelos state government and is known for its sparkling clear mineral waters the from a natural spring that includes a diving pool that locals have used for bathing and summer refreshment for thousands of years. Visitors can swim, snorkle and dive into the deep pools. Camping, glamping, and cabins are available.
- 2 Balneario Los Sauces, Carretera Tlaltizapan - Zacatepec Km 1, ☏ +52 553 741 6240. Daily 09:00 - 18:00. Recreation area with fresh mineral spring pools and an area with water access to the nearby river. Limited facilities but it is a pleasant area with shady palm trees to relax after taking a dip in the cold waters. M$150.
Festivals
edit- Carnaval de Bahidorá - February 14-16, a local celebration of peace, love, arts, food, music and wellness, held in Las Estecas. Official event website[dead link]
- Feast of San Miguel Arcángel, September 29, the patron saint of Tlaltizapán is celebrated with parades, regional food and drink, music and dance, and festivities near the old monastery
Buy
edit- 1 Mercado "Pablo Torres Burgos", Mártires del 13 de Agosto, Centro. Daily 06:00 - 19:00. The town's traditional municipal marketplace is quite small with a similarly small number of local vendors selling fresh produce and food products. A handful of vendors prepare authentic regional dishes.
Eat
edit- 1 La Arboleda, Paso del Campesino, Centro, ☏ +52 734 345 0221. Daily 12:00 - 19:00. Super casual seafood restaurant with outdoor patio dining specializing in catfish tamales. Good cocktails. M$250.
- 2 Las Brasas, C. Emiliano Zapata 98, Carlos Pacheco, ☏ +52 734 159 2730. Th-Tu 09:00 - 18:00, closed W. Rustic restaurant with ambiance galore and views of the Estacas. Traditional regional cuisine. The house specialty is the molcajete, a huge stone bowl filled with grilled meats and vegetables.
- 3 Don Chelato, Calle Ignacio Zaragoza 10, Centro. Casual, family friendly place serving traditional Mexican dishes. Pozole is the house specialty. Cocktails or micheladas available.
Drink
editSleep
edit- 1 Grand Hotel Tlaltizapán, C. de Allende S/N, Temilpa Nuevo, ☏ +52 734 345 1721. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Clean, comfortable rooms in a modern hotel on a busy road (can be noisy at night). Rooms have ceiling fans but no air conditioning. Off-street parking available. On-site swimming pool.
- 2 Hotel Piedras de Sol Solaris Morelos, Chupamirtos S/N Fraccionamiento La Cima, Bonifacio Garcí, ☏ +52 734 345 0326. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Traditional hotel with spacious rooms, off-street parking, swimming pool. Rooms have ceiling fans (no air conditioning). M$1000.
- 3 Quinta las Florecitas, López Velarde 1, Alejandra, ☏ +52 734 345 1925. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 11:00. Moderate hotel with bare bones amenities. Swimming pool available. Parking is difficult. M$800.