Toliara

Toliara is a coastal city at the southern terminus of RN7 in the Toliara Province of Madagascar.

Get in

By plane

• Toliara Airport (TLE  ^IATA). Madagascar Airlines flies from Antananarivo (daily), Morondava (once a week), Taolagnaro (twice a week). Book your flight early as these flights often fill up. 

By bus (taxi brousse)

Mini-buses are the cheapest way to get to Toliara. In Tana you can catch them at the Fasan-karana taxi brousse station. They leave around 09:00 and 16:00. They cost 35,000 Ar and take 18 - 24 hours to get to Toliara depending on the quality of the car and the number of times you break down. You can also catch a taxi brousse to Toliara from any of the major cities on the RN7.

By car

Many travellers rent a car and work their way down the RN7 over a few days. This is a great way to see a lot of different parts of the country. Major attractions on this route are Parc National Ranomafana (near Fianarantsoa) and Parc National Isalo. Cars usually run 130,000 Ar a day plus fuel. Car rentals almost always come with a driver.

Get around

Rickshaws, locally called, "pousse-pousse" are seemingly everywhere in Toliara. They are the cheapest form of transport available and are great to get you out of the hot sun or to go short distances with heavy luggage or shopping bags. While it may seem a bit odd for the first-time tourist to be pulled around the street by a man, rest assured that this awkwardness is only one way. These guys are proud of their pousse-pousse and the work they do. These aren't just for tourists, everyone uses them so go ahead and hop on-board!

See

• 1 Arboretum d'Antsokay, ☏ +261 34 07 600 15, info@antsokayarboretum.org. 07:30-17:30. This impressive botanical garden outside of Tulear gives you a taste of the spiny forest. English speaking guides are extremely knowledgeable of the plant life. Birds, chameleons, and other lizards are sure to be spotted. 15,000 Ar includes an optional guide.  
• 2 La Table. La table is a small table mountain outside of Tulear. The 15-minute climb to the view point is fairly scenic. From the Arboretum d'Antsokay, it's 3 km further out of Tulear, walkable in 45 minutes. Free. 
• 3 Musée Rabesandratana (Rabesandratana Oceanographic Museum), Av. de France (within the grounds of the Tolliara Fisheries and Marine Sciences Institute). M-F 08:00-12:00, 14:30-17:30. there are many oceanographic experts who can help you explain the marine world: corals, algae, sponges, shells, echinoderms, fish, and turtles. In the central room, a large aquarium houses a coelacanth, fished in 1995 near Anakao. (updated May 2023)
• 4 Musée du recyclage Tule'Art (Recycling Museum), Mahavatse, Route du port, across from SEMS Toliara. M-F 14:00-18:00. An art gallery dedicated to art made from recycled materials. (updated May 2023)

Buy

The downtown craft market "Tsena Cociagy" is behind Etoile de Mer and the Alliance Francais. Numerous handicrafts and shells are available. Dome of these shells are endangered species and bringing them into your home country can get you in a lot of trouble. Handicrafts are not made locally, but are brought in from Ambositra and Fianarantsoa so if you come down the RN7, better to buy them there or in Tana as prices are lower there and the selection is greater.

Supermarkets

Score and three Supermaki in Toliara.

Money

ATMs are located at the BNI, BFV and BOA banks in town, 24/7. The former two will accept MasterCard and Visa, BOA will only take Visa.

• BFV Bank, Rue Flayelle, ☏ +261 20-2261010. 24 hours. Has a Mastercard and Visa card ATM. (updated Apr 2018)

Eat

• Etoile de Mer (Main coastal road not for from center of town). Open for lunch and dinner. Large restaurant with a thick menu, this restaurant serves French and Indian dishes as well as pizza. There is a wide, breezy terrace and a pool table. Occasionally the restaurant is closed to the public for marriages or private events. Free Wifi. 12,000 Ar. 
• La Maison, Avenue d'Independence (Across from the post office). French restaurant and bar with a slick atmosphere a big TV (usually playing music videos softly) and a pool table. Many of the French residents of Toliara frequent this restaurant for a taste of home. Free Wifi 12,000 Ar. 
• La Terrase (Pizza Jeff), Toliara Centre, near Galana station. French-owned restaurant on a terrace. Specializes in breakfast (including English breakfast), salads, and pizza. Offers large glasses of fresh made juice. Has free wifi, but charges a small fee to plug in to power socket. 11,000 Ar. 

Drink

• Traveaux (Brochette alley) (Behind (towards town) B52 Casino and Etoile de Mer). The local watering hole, this is where Toliara's residents turn out in force to drink beer and spirits, each kebabs, grilled chicken, and taro and generally just hang out. Food and bars start serving around 18:00 but the place doesn't get going until 20:00. This is the only place to get food in Toliara past 22:00. 

Sleep

• 1 Auberge de la Table, Toliara (12km east of Tulear on RN7), ☏ +261 34 07 600 15, info@antsokayarboretum.org. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. A wonderful place to stay on the grounds of the Arboretum d'Antsokay. The bungalows are clean, spacious, and luxurious -- much attention is paid to detail. You'll wake up to the sound of birds who call the arboretum home. Being far out of the city, this is a place to get away relax. A swimming pool and restaurant round out the grounds. Free Wifi. Accept Visa and MasterCard payments. Bungalows start at 100,000 Ar. (updated Jan 2016)
• 2 Bakuba Hotel, bakubaconcept@gmail.com. This African-themed luxury hotel is guaranteed to stand out as one of the most unique lodging options of your trip. Designed and managed by a couple from Belgium, the lodge has three spacious rooms and two suites, each custom decorated with a specific theme. Meals (with enormous portion sizes) and drinks are prepared in a spacious central room, with options for dining on a second-floor patio that overlooks the ocean, a first-floor deck that overlooks the hills, or inside in a communal kitchen area. The lodge has a pool, and is a five minute walk from the beach. It is worth noting that this lodge was designed by an artist, and there are some aspects that may seem odd - the bathroom and shower area are not separate from the rest of the sleeping area in a couple of rooms, and some of the custom light fixtures or plumbing fixtures may seem a bit odd. Despite these inconveniences, however, the lodge is an experience, and the owners make every effort to ensure an enjoyable stay. The location is about 14 km outside of town and 7 km from the airport along a dirt road. €105-160 per night, depending on room choice. 
• Central Hotel, Bazary be (Center of town near the Ganivala Internet Cafe), ☏ +261 20 94 428 84, +261 32 02 553 25, +261 34 01 410 80. Small hotel in the center of town with spacious rooms and terraces overlooking the street. Terraces have swings which are perfect for napping in the hot mid-day sun. Rooms have large ceiling fans and internal showers. Some rooms have internal toilets, others share. Don't let the central location put you off, the center of town is very quiet during the night, whereas other areas can be very noisy with dogs, music, and roosters. The market starts to get a bit noisy at 07:00, but not enough to really disturb. Rooms are very reasonably priced and discounts can be wrangled for longer stays. 25,000 - 35,000 Ar. 
• 3 Chez Lala. Rooms are basic and a bit dingy, but the price is right. WiFi is available in the restaurant area, and you are close enough to walk anywhere else in Tulear. 21,000 Ar. (updated Nov 2014)
• Hôtel Le Palétuvier, Boulevard Lyautey (Located on the seaside road near the intersection with the Boulevard Philibert Tsiranana), ☏ +261 20 94 440 39, +261 32 02 542 83. Toliar's largest hotel and main conference center. Has a pool and a small internet cafe. From 60,000 Ar. 
• Le Refuge (On road to Anketa from downtown, on left). Small, smart hotel with beautiful garden and swimming pool From 40,000 Ar. 
• Serena Hotel, Boulevard Philbert Tsiranana (Near BNI bank towards the market. Above the Evolution Super market), ☏ +261 20 94 411 73, +261 32 05 600 39. Small hotel with 8 rooms downtown. Has free Wi-Fi connection in the rooms and a nice tea parlor overlooking the street. From 40,000. 
• Hotel Victory. Check-in: 06:00, check-out: 12:00. A modern hotel with 43 rooms and suites fully equipped in a beautiful tropical garden with swimming-pool. Large menu. Very good English spoken here. 10 minutes from the airport with pick-up by hotel bus. Many possibilities for excursions, sailing, diving, snorkelling, big game fishing. €50/80. 

Stay safe

As of 2023, Batterie Beach (just north of Toliara) has been the scene of violent crime, with some fatalities. Global Affairs Canada has issued an Avoid All Travel advisory for the area, and the government of New Zealand has issued an "Exercise increased caution" warning for Batterie Beach.

Go next

• Anakao - This fishing village is located south of Toliara and is accessed primarily by boats that make the journey in the morning.
• Ifaty - Located north of Toliara on a rough road, this coastal town is known for its diving opportunities, beaches, and spiny forest.