Changthang Western Lakes

Changthang Western Lakes is a rural area and wildlife sanctuary in the Ladakh region of India.

Cities

• 1 Chumathang – A tourist village with many homestays famous for its nearby hot springs.
• 2 Karzok – The main village in this area at the banks of Tso Moriri.
• 3 Sumdo – A small village on the intersection of the road between Tso Moriri and Tso Kar.
• 4 Thukje – The tourist village next to Tso Kar named after its nearby mountain with several low and high end accommodation options.

Other destinations

• 1 Tso Moriri – The most famous of the lakes here, a high-altitude lake and Ramsar site with an overwhelming mountain scenery at its backdrop.
• 2 Kyagar Tso – A tranquil lake just before reaching Tso Moriri.
• 3 Tso Kar – A picturesque and fluctuating salt lake and lagoon known for its size and depth as well as flora and fauna, just next to the Leh-Manali highway. Due to the salinity of the Tso Kar, most of the resident fauna is found in its tributaries and in Tso Startsapuk. It is recognised as India's 42nd "Ramsar site".
• 4 Tso Startsapuk – Kind of part of the Tso Kar lagoon. Together they form the "More plains" (a plateau on the Leh–Manali Highway) pool.

Understand

As part of the Changthang Wildlife Sanctuary, this region is a high-altitude wildlife sanctuary and home to many rare species of flora and fauna, especially around the Tso Kar lagoon. Furthermore, the Puga Geothermal Valley offers a surreal landscape and rare vegetation in the middle of an otherwise highly dry region.

Get in

There are three routes by road into this region:

• from the Leh-Manali highway (via Thukje), good if you are just heading into Ladakh from Himachal Pradesh,
• from Leh via Chumathang (a bus might go until Shara), or
• from Pangong Lake via Mahe.

No buses serve this region.

by thumb

Hitch-hiking in from Leh (via Chumathang), after getting out of the city, or from the Leh-Manali highway is easy due to the many local villages along the way and the chance to find local traffic.

It is not clear how easy it is hitch-hiking in from Pangong Lake due to the mainly tourist traffic.

By tour

Most people will be travelling on an arranged tour, either by taxi or by motorbike.

On foot

As everywhere in Ladakh and Himachal Pradesh, the amount of hiking trails is almost unlimited and you could actually hike into Karzok from Kibber in Spiti Valley, a 100 km hiking trail through Kibber Wildlife Sanctuary—see trail.

Fees and permits

Non-Ladakhi visitors will need a permit to visit anything nearby Tso Moriri (see Ladakh#Fees and permits), but not for the other sites.

There is a check post right before you enter Karzok, but it hasn't necessarily to be passed if you just head into Karzok via the peninsula in front and its many off-road tracks. Another check post is on the way to Mahe village, which you wouldn't pass unless you head to Pangong Lake.

Get around

By road

In 2023, the road has been upgraded to asphalt all the way to Tso Moriri. There is just a little unpaved part of 10 km between Tso Kar and Sumdo.

By thumb

Local traffic can easily be found throughout the day.

See India#By thumb for general tips and which vehicles to choose.

By taxi

It will be harder to find any taxi roaming the area, but if necessary, locals will be happy to help for a few rupees.

On foot

There is a 60 km hiking route between Tso Kar and Karzog—see trail. You could hike in or out and do the rest by thumb.

See

• 1 Karzok Monastery. (updated Sep 2023)
• 2 Thukje Monastery. (updated Sep 2023)

Do

• Hiking – The only meaningful hiking route is between Tso Kar and Karzok, see above.
• 1 Chumathang Hot Spring. A hot spring popular with locals and foreigners alike. There is a commercial resort nearby, but also an inconspicuous building with three doors where you can bath for free—wait for one room to become available and plug the hole of the inner pool to let the water flow in and gather. (updated Sep 2023)
• 2 Puga Geothermal Valley (near Puga village). An interesting valley with several geysers, hot springs and (alleged) mud volcanoes. Go for sunset when the area offers impressive pictures. You may also try to dip into the river that crosses the valley when it leaves the hot spring area—it becomes quite warm at last. (updated Sep 2023)

Eat

Guesthouses and homestay will usually come with dinner and breakfast included.

Sleep

Many homestays and guesthouses can be found in Karzok and Chumathang starting at around ₹1,000 incl. food. A few more are in Thukje. There is one rest stop in Sumdo for ₹800 incl. food. If at the lake, you may want to prefer one of the tent camps that have sprung up southwest of Tso Kar or east of Tso Moriri, which give a much better feel for the remoteness of this region, instead of staying in the villages—prices for these can start at ₹2,000.

Backcountry

Due to the remoteness of the lakes, it certainly makes sense to have a tent with you, just in case you get stuck anywhere.

Go next

• Pangong Lake – A highly popular soda lake, separated between India and China. Many people will go the opposite direction and come from here—there is a road connection via Mahe.
• Manali / Himachal Pradesh – The Changthang Western Lakes are conveniently located near the Leh-Manali Highway. Hence, if you heading out of Ladakh, this picturesque and pleasant mountain region will be your next destination. You could even head direclty to Spiti Valley before that.
• Leh – A tranquil city in the center of Ladakh. If you are on your way into Ladakh, Leh would be the most meaningful next destination. You could visit the beautiful Thiksey Monastery on the way.