Villa del Carbón
Some people come to Villa del Carbón for its small-town charm, some for its fishing and water sports in the rivers and four nearby lakes, still others for its traditional leather craftsmen producing boots, jackets, and bags. The town is in Mexico State (Edomex), about 60 km northwest of Mexico City and is a popular weekend getaway spot.
Understand
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Villa del Carbon was historically a Otomi settlement called Nñontle that dates back to 200 BC. The town fell under the dominion of the Aztecs in the 15th century.
The town gets its name from its historically dominant industries: charcoal production and coal mining (both charcoal and coal are called carbon). At one time, dense forests covered the hills around town providing plenty of timber that could be burnt to produce charcoal. Although many of the forests were cut down, several survive and provide opportunities for eco-travelers to hike the wooded trails and spot birds and other wildlife.
The town is one of Mexico's designated Pueblos Mágicos.
Get in
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By car
editVilla del Carbon is 60 km northwest of Mexico City via federal highway MEX-5. The drive will take about 1 hour. If you don't have a car, use Uber or a local taxi because bus service is shaky to Villa del Carbon and will usually involve going considerably out of your way and making connections or getting into a taxi for the last leg. It is a substantial hassle for no cost saving and a big time wasting.
By bus
editNone of the major first-class bus lines serve Villa del Carbon, but that doesn't mean there aren't buses. They just aren't nice buses. The regional carrier, Autobuses Rapidos de Monte Alto serves Villa del Carbon with service to Atlacomulco and nearby towns.
- 1 Terminal Autobuses Rapidos de Monte Alto, Azteca 8. 04:00 - 21:00. Villa del Carbon is a midway stop so buses are typically jam packed. Seats are unreserved. Some buses are modern, air conditioned and comfortable, others are more like peseros and definitely second-class. M$80.
Get around
editThe town is fairly small and compact and easily navigated by foot if you plan to stay within the old colonial centro. The town is also remote, so a lot of people come by car, which is handy to have if you plan to do outdoor activities like fishing or boating on the lakes (some of which are a few miles outside of town). Of course, taxis are available and a sitio where taxis congregate and wait for passengers is near the zocalo. Hotel front desk staff can also call a taxi for you.
See
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- 1 Parroquia de la Virgen de la Pena de Francia, Plaza Hidalgo, Manzana 009 (Centro). A 17th-century colonial church with two contrasting bell towers, one obviously far older than the other. The church is known for its figure of the Virgin with an odd skin color that is said to be caused by being hidden in coal mine for many years to ensure that the figure would not leave town.
- 2 Casa de Cultura Jorge Jimenéz Cantù, Hidalgo 1. M-F 08:00 - 18:00, closed Sa Su. Regional museum displaying archaelogical relics and an exhibit of local art works. Also hosts classes and performances of dance and music.
Do
editThe lakes and rivers around Villa del Carbón are popular fishing spots, particularly for trout. Some of the lakes are scenic and peaceful and are ideal places to canoe or kayak.
Lakes
edit- Presa Taxhimay - there is a community of indigenous Otomi. When the dam was built to form the lake, it covered the town of San Luis de las Peras. A church bell tower from the town rises out of the lake as a reminder of the area's past.
- Presa del Llano - beautiful lake with rolling forested hills; boats are available for rent. There are also cabins for rent and splash pads for kids at KM 4 on the Carratera Villa del Carbon - Toluca.
- Presa Iturbide - beautiful lake with a 7-km hiking trail around the perimeter. Campground available. M$30 per car to enter.
- Presa Capoxi Miguel Hidalgo - small lake with cabins and picnic pavilions for rent (bring your own food, no vendors on site). M$10 to enter, dogs allowed.
Swim
editAside from rivers and lakes, there are 2 good places for an afternoon in the pool:
- Albercas 3 Hermanos - Two pools with surrounding lawns for some tan maintenance
- Las Cascadas - Three pools with a water slide and camping area
Buy
editInto leather? If you are, then you'll find lots to buy in Villa del Carbón where the town's craftsmen specialize in a variety of leather garments including jackets, belts, and wallets, as well as any kind of leather tack you might want, from saddles to saddlebags. Several shops in town sell quality leather goods and there are some workshops that welcome visitors to come see how leather is transformed from cowhides to boots or purses.
Eat
edit- 1 El Rincon Brujo Terraza Jardin, Av. Vicente Barrera 26, ☏ +52 588 913 0056. M-F 09:00 - 19:00, Sa Su 09:00 - 22:00. Traditional restaurant serving grilled meats and regional dishes. Large outdoor garden area with shaded dining areas and a kids playscape. M$300.
- 2 La Antigua Chiripa, Calle Plaza Hidalgo 8, Centro, ☏ +52 588 913 1153. W-M 09:00 - 22:00; closed Tu. Traditional restaurant serving game meats such as venison, wild boar and rabbit, cooked over charcoal fires. M$300.
- 3 Tlacoyos San Jero, C. Silviano Enríquez Manzana 004. Daily 08:00 - 18:30. Cheap eats! Basic antojitos (snacks) such as gorditas, quesadillas, and of course, tlacoyos. M$200.
Drink
edit- 1 Cerveceria Carbonera, Av Rafael Vega, La Bellota. Daily 10:00 - 20:00. Small craft brewery that really puts the "craft" into brewing. Much better selection of beer styles with fuller flavor spectrum and better craftsmanship than 99% of the U.S. craft breweries. It shows from their beer menu, which features a number of dark ales like a smoked stout that is simply to die for, a perfectly balanced malty porter, and a smooth, light bodies brown ale. A surprise was their "Mezcal Ale" which doesn't have mezcal in it, but has a kiss of sweet agave. Friendly staff who offer tours of the brewing facility and are happy to talk about the brewing process. Sampler boards are available so you can try different beers. Good light finger foods with an emphasis on dishes and tastes of Spanish tapas. M$200.
Sleep
editTraditional hotels are in the downtown (centro) area. You can find cabins in the wooded hills outside town.
- 1 Los Sauces Hotel, Rafael Vega 5, Centro, ☏ +52 588 913 0566. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Moderate hotel in a colonial-style building. Rooms are spacious and clean though a bit dated. Nice outdoor garden with a kids' play area. On-site restaurant. Ample free parking.
- 2 Hotel El Alguila, Hidalgo 3, Centro, ☏ +52 588 913 0224. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Comfortable, clean, full-service hotel in the heart of the colonial center. On-site restaurant with full breakfast available. On-site parking available (extra charge). M$1800.
- 3 Los Faroles, Juárez 26 Entre calle las pilas y16 de Septiembre, Centro, ☏ +52 588 913 1246. Check-in: 13:00, check-out: 12:00. Spacious, clean, well-equipped rooms with hot water, cable TV. Dogs allowed. Off-street parking available. Cash only (no credit cards).